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Results for Swiss Lever Escapement

1,692 articles · 44 videos found · page 24 of 58

Oris ProPilot Date Review: The Big Crown ProPilot Evolved Teddy Baldassarre
Oris ProPilot Date Review Nov 19, 2025

Oris ProPilot Date Review: The Big Crown ProPilot Evolved

The Oris Big Crown ProPilot Date has a prestigious history starting with the founding of the independent Swiss brand that makes it. Oris began making watches in 1904, when it was founded in Hölstein, Switzerland, by Paul Cattin and Georges Christian, who named the company after a nearby brook. A maker of pocket watches and, by 1925, the increasingly popular wristwatches, Oris enjoyed a long period of growth and expansion throughout the following decades and even made its own movements. Losing its independence during the consolidation years of the Quartz Crisis, Oris regained it in the 1980s, when a management buyout transformed the company and solidified its mission to make only mechanical watches going forward. Today, Oris has become a staple for value-conscious collectors of Swiss-made watches, particularly sport-oriented models. Among the brand’s modern pillars are the dressy Big Crown Pointer Date and the more aviation-centric Big Crown ProPilot, which trace their existence all the way back to 1938. That year marked the launch of the first Oris watch dubbed “Big Crown,” named after its signature element, an oversized, fluted winding crown meant to be easy to grasp and to operate by a pilot wearing heavy gloves. The modern edition of the Big Crown ProPilot debuted in 2014 (example above), notably adding what is today one of its signature features: a knurled bezel that resembles a jet turbine.  Oris has revamped, tweaked, and added complications to the original, ...

Tudor Ranger Review: New 36mm Case And "Dune" White Dial Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Ranger Review New 36mm Nov 19, 2025

Tudor Ranger Review: New 36mm Case And "Dune" White Dial

Along with their more refined timepieces, Swiss luxury brands have staked their claim in the field watch space as well. Tudor’s offering in the category is the contemporary 39mm Ranger, a name that features prominently throughout the brand's history. Descended from the 1950s Tudor Oyster Prince Reference 7909, Tudor introduced the 34mm Ranger Reference 7995 in 1965, with the model name remaining in the lineup all the way through the 1980s. It was the 7995 that established the Ranger’s design language, with its 12-3- 6-9 dial layout and iconic spade hour hand, all of which later made a comeback in 2014 in a somewhat oversized 41mm version. The Ranger got a reboot in 2022 as a 39mm model, with a fully brushed case and COSC-certified MT5402 movement, and it serves as not only a nod to Tudor field watches of yore, but also as a throwback to the tool-watch aesthetics of the Rolex Explorer 1016 from Tudor's parent brand. Released in July of 2022 to mark the 70th anniversary of the British North Greenland Expedition, the modern Ranger 79950 is a welcome update from that discontinued 41mm model of 2014. With a versatile 39mm case and a COSC-certified manufacture movement, the Ranger is a strong value play, hovering around $3,500 on the bracelet. Much like the vintage Ranger (and the original Rolex Explorer that provided much of its DNA), it’s a fantastic daily driver, with a fully satin-brushed finish and 100 meters of water resistance. And if you crave a more authentic tool...

First Look - The New Bulgari Octo Finissimo Mattar Bin Lahej Limited Edition Monochrome
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Mattar Bin Nov 19, 2025

First Look - The New Bulgari Octo Finissimo Mattar Bin Lahej Limited Edition

Attaining iconic status in the world of watchmaking is no easy feat. This, however, is what Bulgari has achieved in just ten years, with the bold contemporary Italian design and sophisticated Swiss mechanics of the Octo Finissimo lineup. Its impressive lineup turned the Roman Maison into a master of ultra-thin mechanical watchmaking, as the brand has […]

Introducing - Born in the USA, Avoirdupois Debuts with the 100% American-Made Force Majeure Watch Monochrome
Nov 17, 2025

Introducing - Born in the USA, Avoirdupois Debuts with the 100% American-Made Force Majeure Watch

We have exciting news from the United States, and it has nothing to do with the Trump Administration’s Swiss watch import tariffs or their recent reduction. Avoirdupois, a New York City-based brand founded in 2017 by designer/engineer James Stumpf, has expanded its product mix beyond retro-styled furniture and lighting products to include watches. Designed and […]

Hands-On With Four Versions Of The Louis Erard 2340 In Steel And Titanium   Fratello
Louis Erard 2340 Nov 17, 2025

Hands-On With Four Versions Of The Louis Erard 2340 In Steel And Titanium  

What can you do in Le Noirmont, a town of 1,629 inhabitants situated in the Swiss canton of Jura? You can go for a hike in the mountains surrounding the village. And if you’re into watches, a visit to the Musée de la Boîte de Montre (The Watch Case Museum) is a good idea. It’s […] Visit Hands-On With Four Versions Of The Louis Erard 2340 In Steel And Titanium   to read the full article.

Viridian Starfall: Orient Star’s M34 F8 Date SJX Watches
Seiko Epson Nov 17, 2025

Viridian Starfall: Orient Star’s M34 F8 Date

Among Japan’s best-kept secrets, Orient Star occupies an intriguing middle ground between tradition and technology. Its latest creation, the Orient Star M34 F8 Date Green, captures that duality perfectly by combining an old-school movement with state-of-the-art dial and escapement components drawn from the vast capabilities of its parent company, Seiko Epson. The result is a watch that feels distinctly Japanese in both spirit and execution. The M34’s new green dial is embossed with a hand-engraved stamp and coated with an optical multi-layer film that creates shifting hues without a trace of pigment - an effect more often associated with much costlier watches. Beneath its shimmering surface lies Orient Star’s enduring in-house F8 movement, which continues a lineage that dates back to 1971.   Initial thoughts The dial of the M34 immediately distinguishes it within its segment. Its engraved texture, embossed from a hand-engraved die, gives the surface a natural radiance, while the iridescent green tone - created through a PVD-applied optical multi-layer film - shifts fluidly under changing light. It’s a distinctly upmarket look that signals the depth of the Epson manufacturing ecosystem behind it. The case reflects that same industrial prowess, made entirely in-house within Seiko Epson’s facilities, using 316L stainless steel finished with Sallaz (more commonly known as ‘Zaratsu’) polishing to achieve distortion-free mirrored bevels. The 40 mm size and ...

When A Watch Brand’s “Entry Point” Is The Best Option Fratello
Nov 16, 2025

When A Watch Brand’s “Entry Point” Is The Best Option

There’s a small, stubborn truth that keeps resurfacing whenever you walk into a boutique, scroll pre-owned listings, or stare at your wrist: the best daily watch is often the one that sits at a brand’s “entry point.” Big Swiss maisons spend years distilling their DNA into a watch that captures the soul of the brand […] Visit When A Watch Brand’s “Entry Point” Is The Best Option to read the full article.

LVMH Acquires Stake in Movement Maker La Joux-Perret SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton LVMH just announced Nov 12, 2025

LVMH Acquires Stake in Movement Maker La Joux-Perret

The world’s largest luxury group, Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH), just announced that it has taken a minority stake in Swiss movement manufacturer La Joux-Perret, an important supplier to the group’s watch brands as well as the industry at large. Owned by Citizen of Japan, La Joux-Perret also controls a few of its own brands, including Arnold & Son and Angelus, that will remain independent. The solar-powered TAG Heuer Formula 1 that relies on technology licensed from Citizen Initial thoughts LVMH’s investment in La Joux-Perret marks a logical next step in its long-term effort to consolidate movement production within the group. Such arrangements are becoming increasingly common - Hermès and Chanel, for instance, have taken similar minority stakes in movement makers Vaucher and Kenissi, respectively. LVMH, which owns TAG Heuer, Bulgari, Zenith, Hublot, and of course Louis Vuitton, had already hinted at this direction. Last year, Frédéric Arnault, son of Bernard Arnault and then the head of LVMH’s watch division, proposed expanding Zenith’s manufacture to supply movements to other group brands. That plan has been partly realised with Zenith now producing Bulgari’s Solotempo calibre. However, the idea of Zenith supplying a high-volume brand like TAG Heuer always seemed unlikely, which helps explain this latest move. La Joux-Perret’s solar technology for movements is particularly important to TAG Heuer, the most important watch brand in LVMH in terms o...

In-Depth - 1.85mm… How Did Bulgari Create the World’s Thinnest Tourbillon Watch? Monochrome
Bulgari Create Nov 7, 2025

In-Depth - 1.85mm… How Did Bulgari Create the World’s Thinnest Tourbillon Watch?

At this point in watchmaking history, we can say, without taking too many risks, that Bulgari has become the undisputed master of ultra-thin horology. Breaking one record after another, the Italian/Swiss manufacture has been at the forefront of creativity and ingenuity, and while we are undoubtedly in a golden age of the ultra-thin watch, with […]

Hands On: Breguet Four-Minute Tourbillon No. 1890 SJX Watches
Breguet Four-Minute Tourbillon No 1890 Nov 7, 2025

Hands On: Breguet Four-Minute Tourbillon No. 1890

In the coming weekend, one of the most important watches of this auction season will go under the hammer at Sotheby’s Breguet’s 250th anniversary thematic sale November 9 – Breguet no. 1890, a pocket watch with tourbillon and natural escapement made by the firm by Breguet while Abraham-Louis Breguet himself still helmed the company. The gilt dial with a regulator-style layout might seem familiar – the recent Classique 7225 reproduces this dial design. In fact, Breguet no. 1890 isn’t the only watch in this style; it belongs to a series of pocket watches all equipped with a four-minute tourbillon and échappement naturel from the early 19th century that were among the finest watches of the time. Breguet built just eight four-minute tourbillons with natural escapement, all of which thankfully survive, and only three with gold dials. King George III ordered the most famous example – almost identical to this watch – during the Napoleonic wars. For context, that would be like Churchhill (who owned a Breguet himself) ordering an A. Lange & Söhne watch during the Second World War. As such, it was signed Recordon, Breguet’s London agent, to disguise its French origins. Whirling About Regulator Almost 225 years ago, the French Ministry of the Interior granted A.-L. Breguet a patent for his most famous creation, the tourbillon – a clever exercise in lateral thinking. For a mechanical watch to keep the same time across all vertical positions the combined balance, st...

Introducing: The Awake Sơn Mài Fragments In Three Mesmeric Colors Fratello
Nov 7, 2025

Introducing: The Awake Sơn Mài Fragments In Three Mesmeric Colors

The Awake Sơn Mài Fragments collection brings together the ancient Japanese art of Raden (inlaying of shell), traditional Vietnamese lacquer, and Swiss watchmaking. The dials comprise hand-laid mother-of-pearl fragments sealed beneath layers of natural lacquer. Offered in three limited editions (Green, Blue, and Pink), these watches showcase Awake’s mission to make metiers d’art available in […] Visit Introducing: The Awake Sơn Mài Fragments In Three Mesmeric Colors to read the full article.

Introducing - The New Awake Son Mai Fragments Limited Editions Monochrome
Nov 6, 2025

Introducing - The New Awake Son Mai Fragments Limited Editions

Awake has built a clear identity around thoughtful materials and craft, moving from early eco-focused projects to last year’s Son Mai lineup, watches that brought traditional Hanoi lacquer work and silver-leaf dials into a permanent, Swiss-powered collection. The Fragments series is the next chapter: three limited editions that fuse Vietnamese Son Mai lacquer with mother-of-pearl […]

Introducing: The Lebois & Co Heritage Chronograph Atelier “Coquille d’œuf” - A Souscription Watch With A Grand Feu Enamel Dial Fratello
Nov 5, 2025

Introducing: The Lebois & Co Heritage Chronograph Atelier “Coquille d’œuf” - A Souscription Watch With A Grand Feu Enamel Dial

The Lebois & Co Heritage Chronograph Atelier “Coquille d’œuf” honors the Métiers d’Art of Swiss watchmaking with its Grand Feu enamel dial - and what a dial it is! As 2025 marks the brand’s 90th anniversary, this is undoubtedly a celebratory watch. If you want it, you pay a little up front, the brand starts […] Visit Introducing: The Lebois & Co Heritage Chronograph Atelier “Coquille d’œuf” - A Souscription Watch With A Grand Feu Enamel Dial to read the full article.

Book Review - The Book of Rolex, Accessible Knowledge about “The Crown” for Everyday Watch Fans Monochrome
Rolex Accessible Knowledge about “The Nov 2, 2025

Book Review - The Book of Rolex, Accessible Knowledge about “The Crown” for Everyday Watch Fans

With well over a century of watchmaking from the day the brand was founded until today, the world of Rolex can be a daunting one. As the most prolific and widely known brand, and with countless references, generations and innovations coming from the Swiss manufacture, it’s understandable some might get absolutely lost in the details. […]

The Best Rolex Blue Dial Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Breitling Nov 1, 2025

The Best Rolex Blue Dial Watches

When you think of Rolex, the first colors your mind usually conjures up are green and gold, long the emblematic colors of the Swiss power brand and its world-famous “crown” logo. (Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf is said to have settled on these colors because they symbolized wealth and success.) Blue, on the other hand, is not a color that most watch aficionados readily associate with Rolex, though many will associate it with other watch brands, like Breguet, Breitling, and Rolex’s own little brother, Tudor. However, when Rolex does decide to do blue - whether it’s for dials, bezels, or some combination of both - it does so in a way that really speaks to the brand’s avid fan base. Over the years, some blue-dialed Rolex watches, in fact, are not only popular but have become recognized as classics. Here are seven Rolexes with blue dials - some discontinued and collectible, others still available in the current collection - that have demanded enthusiast attention. (Price estimates for the discontinued models on the list are courtesy of WatchCharts.) Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41, Ref. 126334 ($11,100) Rolex released the Datejust in 1945, and the model is today regarded as one of the world’s most classically elegant dress watches. The Datejust brought two now-familiar elements to the world of watch design, one of which can be found throughout the watch industry, the other being still closely associated with Rolex. The first was the addition of a date disp...

Who Was Roger Dubuis? - The Life And Work Of The Master Watchmaker With A Taste For The Extravagant Fratello
Roger Dubuis ? - Nov 1, 2025

Who Was Roger Dubuis? - The Life And Work Of The Master Watchmaker With A Taste For The Extravagant

So far, we’ve introduced you to Abraham-Louis Breguet, who set up shop 250 years ago, and the “Breguet of the 20th Century,” English watchmaker and inventor of the Co-Axial escapement, George Daniels. In the spirit of independent watchmaking and the brand’s 30th anniversary, Fratello now invites you to get acquainted with Monsieur Roger Dubuis (1938–2017), […] Visit Who Was Roger Dubuis? - The Life And Work Of The Master Watchmaker With A Taste For The Extravagant to read the full article.

Introducing - Launching on Kickstarter, the new Northern Watches NW1 Bronze Age & NW2 Northerner Monochrome
Oct 31, 2025

Introducing - Launching on Kickstarter, the new Northern Watches NW1 Bronze Age & NW2 Northerner

Northern Watches, launched by the Norwegian-born and Swiss-based watchmaker Stian Lofstad, arrives with a clear message: show the whole day at a glance, keep the design clean, and build it in Switzerland with proven movement. The debut range splits into two references, the bronze-cased NW1 Bronze Age and the steel NW2 Northerner, but the concept […]

Introducing - Farer Expands its Moonphase Collection with the Stratton and Burbidge Eastern Arabic Monochrome
Farer Expands Oct 30, 2025

Introducing - Farer Expands its Moonphase Collection with the Stratton and Burbidge Eastern Arabic

Farer is a British watchmaking brand founded on the principles of adventurous design, accessible quality, and mechanical integrity. It builds its reputation by blending Swiss craftsmanship with bold colour, texture, and storytelling. Every Farer collection feels both familiar and fresh, rooted in heritage but always forward-looking. The Moonphase Collection, launched in 2023, brought that same […]

Farer’s Moonphase Lights Up the Night SJX Watches
Christopher Ward Oct 30, 2025

Farer’s Moonphase Lights Up the Night

Farer has managed to carve out its own niche in the new wave of British-founded, Swiss-made brands, with playful (and skillful) use of colour and accessible pricing. Two new additions to the Moonphase collection continue that pattern: the Stratton and Burbidge feature Farer’s signature cushion-shaped case and crisp detailing that gives them an unmistakably contemporary feel despite their traditional inspiration. The Stratton is the second Farer model to feature a natural stone dial, this time in Eisenkiesel quartz, while the Burbidge, limited to just 100 pieces, flaunts trendy Eastern Arabic numerals and a playful blue-and-pink palette. Initial thoughts Farer’s brand identity is rooted in British design and Swiss production; in this respect it’s similar to Christopher Ward and Fears. The brand offers a playful, and often colourful, twist on traditional tool watch motifs. The Moonphase collection is among the brand’s dressier offerings, and the Stratton and Burbidge are each interesting in their own right. The most eye-catching of the pair is the limited edition Burbidge with Eastern Arabic numerals for the dial and date wheel. The blue and pink colourway is charming and the exotic numerals will likely prove to be something of a ‘secret handshake’ among those who are up-to-date with collector culture. The Stratton, named for British astronomer Frederick Stratton OBE, sticks to regular numerals but features a natural stone dial made of Eisenkiesel. The thickness...

Fabian Pellet Debuts with Artisanal L’Essentiel SJX Watches
Ming Oct 23, 2025

Fabian Pellet Debuts with Artisanal L’Essentiel

Fabian Pellet emerged last year as one of the more interesting and unusual independents with the L’Essentiel. Where most new faces in the field are freshly-graduated watchmaking students, Mr Pellet was previously a watchmaking teacher. A Swiss native working in Tokyo since 2022, Mr Pellet is one independent watchmaker to watch. The new version of L’Essentiel looks virtually identical to the three-piece platinum limited run from 2024. This updated model is now housed in a titanium case, and even though the production is inherently limited, it extends beyond three pieces. Initial thoughts The watch itself appears unassuming at first: a simple time-only model with a white enamel dial and a case defined by fairly plain lines. But when taking a closer look at the finer details, especially when turning the piece over, this can’t be dismissed as just another time-only indie piece.   The movement inside the watch is clearly meant to be the center of attention, thoughtfully hidden underneath the simple, pocket watch-like dial. The calibre was crafted fully by hand; Mr Pellet does not use CNC machines even for the cutting of the raw blanks for the mainplate and bridges. The movement is clearly heavily influenced by a historical watches, both visually and in terms of its construction, which adds to its flair. All of its qualities aside, L’Essentiel remains a time-only watch, which has become somewhat of a trope with both new and established independents. It seems like a new ...

Introducing - India’s First Wandering Hours Timepiece, the Titan Stellar 3.0 and its Crystallized Titanium Case Monochrome
Titan Oct 20, 2025

Introducing - India’s First Wandering Hours Timepiece, the Titan Stellar 3.0 and its Crystallized Titanium Case

Our visit earlier this year to India’s prime watchmaking company, Titan, was a genuine eye-opening experience. Besides witnessing the impressive scale of production (it is immense, and a whole different level than Swiss watchmaking), we also discovered that the industry giant had some unexpected horological capacities. Titan, to celebrate its 40th anniversary, unveiled India’s first […]