Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Everything You Need To Know About Stone Dials
A collector's guide to stone dials with Pierre Biver and two vintage dealers.
Results for Lange Pour le Mérite Series
7,687 articles · 901 videos found · page 241 of 287
Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
Hamilton Introduces the PSR 74, a Period Correct 70s Throwback
It was 1979, and I had accompanied my parents to a dinner party. I was six years old, and my parents’ friends had no children. My parents married later in life and came from a generation where children were meant to be seen and not heard. Unfortunately, I am one of those who likes to be seen and heard. However, I was instructed to be on my best behavior, so they set me in front of the television. Noticing that I was bored, our host handed me his wristwatch and said, “Check this out.” He pressed a button on the side of the case, and the display lit up in bright red, showing the time. I had never seen anything like it before. My father’s manual-wind Caravelle watch had a large white dial with Roman numerals and looked like an antique compared to this modern watch. I was captivated, and he let me wear it and play with it all evening. Undoubtedly, that watch made a lasting impression on me. The 1970s were an exhilarating period in design and technology, marked by rapid changes. The quartz crisis impacted the watch industry, prompting companies to innovate. This development created numerous new timepieces, including the noteworthy Hamilton Pulsar Cushion. Introduced in 1974, it boasted a vibrant red LED display that would only activate when you pressed the button on its side. Fifty years later, Hamilton is releasing an updated version called the PSR 74, and they have chosen to maintain its iconic 31mm cushion-shaped case. This design was considered futuristic in the 197...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Fleux FLX003
Search for “vintage watch” on Kickstarter and you’ll be met with page after page of watches that seek to capture the charm of watches from decades past. Some will be near-replicas that look more like carbon copies than modern interpretations. Others will find a balance of paying homage to iconic designs while still maintaining an air of originality. While the approaches vary, vintage inspired designs remain pervasive – they’re just about everywhere. Last year, Toronto based Fleux joined the ranks of brands crowdfunding their vintage inspired freshman releases with the FLX001 and FLX002– taking the amalgamation route by drawing inspiration from a variety of classic skin divers. The FLX001 featured chunky lume plots and a blocky orange hour hand that brought to mind images of Squale and Vulcain. The FLX002 featured a California dial, a layout of half Roman and half Arabic numerals that was popularized by brands like Rolex and Panerai. Changing gears to pay homage to a single watch rather than a genre, the FLX003 unapologetically draws its inspiration from the Omega Seamaster 300 Big Triangle- also known as the “Big T”. The Watch Lets address the elephant in the room: When considering a $500 NH38 powered Omega inspired dive watch, it’s fair to ask how it differs from the other Omega-inspired designs on the market. Afterall, a 200 meter, Seiko powered watch from Pagani Design can be yours for about $100. I’ve personally owned (and worn with pride) many of t...
Time+Tide
Andrew & Justin Hast tackle the watch industry’s sense of humour
Andrew and Justin are taking on the serious topic of the watch industry's sense of humour, or a lack thereof, at WatchPro Salon in London.The post Andrew & Justin Hast tackle the watch industry’s sense of humour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Halloween Watches: Be Afraid, Very Afraid This Year! - Ghoulish Wristwear From Bell & Ross, Mr Jones, Scurfa, And More
What better way to celebrate the dark day of Halloween than with some scary wristwear? I’m not talking about electrified watches that’ll zap you in the night, but it could mean some newfound color for your watch box. In fact, some Halloween watches are cool all year round. This year, I have found great examples, […] Visit Halloween Watches: Be Afraid, Very Afraid This Year! - Ghoulish Wristwear From Bell & Ross, Mr Jones, Scurfa, And More to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Auction: Breguet 3218 Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Wristwatch at Christie’s
One of the most intriguing and significant watches in Christie’s upcoming Geneva auction on November 11 is Breguet no. 3218, a tonneau-shaped wristwatch with a perpetual calendar and retrograde date sold in 1935. In all likelihood the first wristwatch ever with these complications, no. 3218 is also notable for its provenance: the original owner was Paul Iribe, Coco Chanel’s romantic partner. The watch is going under the hammer with a low estimate of CHF100,000 – modest considering its significance. According to Christie’s, there are only four known wristwatches with perpetual calendar and retrograde date made in the first half of the 20th century, regardless of brand, and this is one of them. Two others were also made by Breguet, while the final example is the unique Patek Philippe ref. 96 (no. 860’182) that is the classic round Calatrava case. This watch, no. 3218, is the earliest of the four, making it likely the first-ever perpetual calendar wristwatch with retrograde date. (Another wristwatch retrograde perpetual calendar and minute repeater is known, the Vacheron Constantin “Don Pancho” that is also tonneau-shaped.) The 18k white gold case remains well preserved Beyond its intrinsic features, no. 3218 is also historically interesting for its first owner. The watch was sold by Breguet in May 1935 – for a then-astronomical 10,000 francs – to Paul Iribe, a French designer who is perhaps most famous for being Coco Chanel’s lover. In September 1935, not...
Teddy Baldassarre
Review: Neobrutalist Horology & the Kollokium Projekt 01
About 15 years ago I came across a brand out of the Netherlands called d.m.h. which was, in reality, a single person by the name of Fred Dingemans, working out of a shed in his backyard. His creations were raw and slightly impractical, but they were also a pure expression of creativity, and unwaveringly original. These watches were captivating at a glance, showcasing a similar level of creative fidelity to what we were seeing from the likes of Urwerk and MB&F; at the time. This is a quality sorely taken for granted these days, with most of the newcomers wisely choosing to play it safe with practical, conventionally attractive creations that can go anywhere, and do anything. I have a well-documented love of practical tool watches that can go anywhere and do anything, but I often lament the homogeneous nature of watch design that this trend has brought us to. Truly novel expressions are a rare sight these days, but there has been exactly one to cross my radar over the past year that has brought a similar feeling to seeing a d.m.h. watch all those years ago, and that is the kollokium projekt 01. My first glimpse of kollokium came when I spotted one on the wrist of one of the co-founders while attending the Dubai Watch Week events of 2023. This individual, uncoincidentally, is also responsible for the avant-garde creations coming out of Louis Errard these days. His name is Manuel Emch, and he is one of three men (the others being Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi) behind koll...
Fratello
Hot Take: The New De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon
Today, we’ll briefly examine the new De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon, a thin titanium watch with a visible movement. Of course, it uses the brand’s characteristic spring-loaded, floating lugs that hug the wrist. It’s a lovely piece worth checking out! We spent time with De Bethune at Geneva Watch Days 2024 and saw several […] Visit Hot Take: The New De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
An Owner’s Comparison: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic vs. Rolex Explorer 36
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic and the Rolex Explorer 36 both have automatic movements, three hands, black dials, and 100-meter water resistance. Both they couldn't be more different as Perry Heim explains.
Monochrome
The Petrolhead Corner – The Beauty Of Destruction Through The Rudi Klein Junkyard Auction
Some say destruction highlights transition and can hold a discerning level of beauty. Although you might not agree with me, as destruction is often deemed something negative, I believe there is at least some merit to that reasoning. Just take a look at some of the stuff that’s coming up for auction at RM Sotheby’s […]
Fratello
The New Berneron Mirage 34 - My Favorite Watch Of 2024
The new Berneron Mirage 34 joins last year’s 38mm models in the small brand’s growing lineup. As we’ll see, these aren’t simply downsized editions. Each model showcases a stone dial and a new caliber. Hint: these are my favorite watches of this year so far. Sylvain Berneron is the name behind the eponymous brand he […] Visit The New Berneron Mirage 34 - My Favorite Watch Of 2024 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Sophisticated Platinum & Black Enamel Breguet Classique 5177 & Classique 7787
Breguet‘s Classique collection distils the essence of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s watchmaking spirit. With its pure, refined lines, the Classique is home to a wide variety of models sharing many of Breguet’s ‘unmistakable signs’. Breguet expands the collection with a pair of extremely elegant platinum models with inky black Grand Feu enamel dials. The candidates for this […]
SJX Watches
Affordable Seiko Sports Duo Exclusively for SE Asia
Seiko has just announced a pair of regional exclusives for its longtime distributor in Southeast Asia, the Seiko 5 Sports SSK043K1 and Prospex Speedtimer SSC951P1 Thong Sia Group Editions. Available only in Singapore, Hong Kong, Macau, Malaysia, and Brunei, the Thong Sia Group (TSG) limited editions are inspired by basketball, hence the salmon dials with black accents that echo the colour of the balls. The solar-powered Speedtimer chronograph Initial thoughts Seiko produces some of the best offerings in the affordable price segment, and the TSG duo demonstrate that amply with strong price-performance ratios. The Seiko 5 Sports, for instance, is an automatic with second time zone for 654 Singapore dollars, or about US$500. While the basketball link is a bit of a stretch, the metallic-finish copper (or “salmon”) dials are appealing. Though the shade is popular, the colour is less common in affordable sports watches in this price range, making this pair a little more interesting. The Seiko 5 Sports with a GMT function A handy travel watch The TSG edition is based on the Seiko 5 Sports GMT, which is basically a diver-style watch with a second time zone function. It has a stainless steel case that is 42.5 mm in diameter and 13.6 mm high. Water resistant to 100 m, the case is satin-brushed on top with mirror-polished bevels on the side of the lugs. In traditional Seiko 5 style, it has the crown positioned at four o’clock, which was originally conceived to indicate the w...
Fratello
Hands-On: The Breitling Navitimer Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary
Today, we’ll examine the Breitling Navitimer Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary limited edition. This is the third hands-on review of these special celebration models. The Navitimer is arguably the most famous Breitling chronograph, meaning this piece had better be good! Thus far, we’ve gone hands-on with the Super Chronomat and Premier Datora Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary […] Visit Hands-On: The Breitling Navitimer Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Paulin Introduces the new Modul D and E
While it’s probably apocryphal, Pablo Picasso was once quoted as saying, “Learn the rules like a pro, so you can break them like an artist.” I was reminded of this quote when I was introduced to the new watches from Paulin, the Modul D and E. Like its predecessors, the Modul line-up has a way of being at once playful, but owning a distinctive style that can only come from years of expertise to know when and where to break the rules. Let’s start with some specifics of these watches, shall we? For both Moduls, customers get the option of two case sizes and three movements for a total of six combinations available. For the 35mm case, you have the choice of either a quartz (ETA 955.112) or manual (ETA 7001) movement, while the 39mm option is equipped with a La Joux Perret automatic movement. By the way, if you’re worried the 35mm might be too small – don’t be. The tonneau-shaped case has a deceptively large presence on the wrist, making it a perfect unisex size. In terms of colorways, the Modul D and E are a bit more subdued than other models in the line. Focusing on monochromatic dials, these models use the indices and hands for pops of color. The Modul D is a black-dialed watch with a blue hour hand, a white minute hand, and yellow indices, while Modul E is a nice contrast of a white dial, offset with blue and orange. Each reference is tonally offset against the stainless steel case. While these iterations of the Modul line may not be as flashy as previous ...
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Patek Philippe Nautilus References
Another Friday, another list! This week, we’ll take a look at the famous Patek Philippe Nautilus. It’s a great reminder of what makes Gérald Genta’s creation stand out. The watch was first introduced in 1976 and has become one of the industry’s leading silhouettes over time. But we all know that the brand discontinued the […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Patek Philippe Nautilus References to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The Patek Philippe Cubitus Collection
Let the record show that this introduction to the Patek Philippe Cubitus collection was written a day after the official release. That’s important because these watches elicited strong emotions upon their debut and beforehand during online leaks. Therefore, I’ve let these watches sink in a bit before reacting. I’ll run down the specs and share […] Visit Introducing: The Patek Philippe Cubitus Collection to read the full article.
Fratello
Meet The New Citizen Promaster Geo Trekker
Citizen’s Promaster line has brought us professional toolwatches for 35 years. Today, I’ll look at one of the last additions, the Citizen Promaster Geo Trekker. It’s available in three colorways and was designed for pilots. However, I discovered this watch is equally suitable for general watch lovers like you and me. Citizen Promaster Geo Trekker […] Visit Meet The New Citizen Promaster Geo Trekker to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Patek Philippe Cubitus
The Stern family has been at the helm of Patek Philippe since the 1930s, and for all intents and purposes the family has been responsible for – or, at the very least, overseen – just about every notable iconic release from the brand in the modern wristwatch age. Sure, split-seconds chronographs and the first Patek perpetual calendar wristwatch pre-date the Stern legacy, but when it comes to pure iconography across known collections spanning the Calatrava, the Nautilus, the Ellipse, and the Aquanaut – names that make boutiques quiver at the notion of adding yet another name to a medieval scroll’s worth of a waitlist – we can all thank generations of the Stern family. And now we can add the Patek Philippe Cubitus to that list. Brothers Jean and Charles Henri Stern invested in Patek in 1932 and were tangentially a part of the brand when the first Calatrava launched. Henri Stern oversaw the development and release of the Ellipse, followed by a watch that has come to define the brand by the general salivating public: the Nautilus (though the ultra-thin Ref. 3940 is just as deserving of praise). Philippe Stern took over in 1993, and it was under his stewardship that Patek followed up on the Gérald Genta-designed Nautilus with a new take on the format: The Aquanaut. Patek loves to delight and surprise, and so, for a deeper look at Patek launches over the years, read Mark Bernardo’s piece here. You might be thinking to yourself that a whole host of watches are missin...
Fratello
Fratello Talks: Humor In Watches
Welcome to this week’s episode of Fratello Talks. Watches are many different things - functional objects, fashion accessories, charming anachronistic timekeeping companions… The list goes on. But one thing they aren’t is funny. In the world of watches, the only thing more serious than the timepieces themselves is their prices. But does that mean there’s no […] Visit Fratello Talks: Humor In Watches to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look – The Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba 40mm, now with a Cool Red Bezel
While widely known for its countless apparitions on the silver screen and its military-inspired watches, Hamilton, once an American brand now under the umbrella of the Swatch Group, also carries a rather serious range of aquatic-oriented watches. Sitting alongside the high-performance Frogman and BeLOWZERO collections is the Khaki Navy Scuba, a classic dive watch with […]
SJX Watches
The Habring² Oskar is a Classical Moon Phase
Described by Habring² as “a relative of Felix“, the Oskar shares the brand’s signature A11 movement but gains a calendar module, with the seconds at six or central. Launched to mark the 20th anniversary of Habring², the Oskar makes its debut in three different variants, a pair with date-and-moon and the final model with just a moon phase. All three feature the same classical aesthetic with Breguet numerals and a compact, 38.5 mm case. Initial thoughts The Oskar is an excellent example of what the Austrian independent has to offer – appealing, clean aesthetics paired with the excellent, proprietary A11 movement, and a price tag of well under US$8,000. And the Oskar also reflect Habring²’s technical competence that the brand managed to squeeze the complication module into a 9 mm high case, with the movement alone being just 5.5 mm high. Admittedly, the vintage-inspired styling might be a little generic, although it is easily appealing. The design is well-executed with a properly proportioned dial and thoughtful details. As is typical for Habring², the Oskar is an honest product and an excellent value proposition, with the moon phase model priced at €6,050 and the moon phase with pointer date about 10% more. Mid century style The case is a simple, fuss-free affair that is similar to that found on other Habring² models, including the Felix. Entirely polished, the stainless steel case is 38.5 mm in diameter and 9 mm in thickness for both versions. All three m...
Worn & Wound
Yema and Alain Silberstein Collaborate on a New Limited Edition
Founded in 1948, Yema is an independent French watch manufacturer in Morteau, France, which as Yema reminds us, is “the birthplace of French watchmaking.” The third-generation Bôle family operates it alongside a team of watchmakers with over 40 years of experience. Over the years, they have gained a reputation for producing robust and dependable tool watches suitable for diving, car racing, and military expeditions. Yema has sought a new, more enthusiast focused clientele in recent years, particularly with their popular dive watches and the new Wristmaster line of integrated bracelet sports watches. To enhance this revival, they partnered with Alain Silberstein to create a special limited edition piece. Silberstein is an artistic watch designer with a background in interior architecture who grew to prominence with his eponymous brand in the 80s and 90s. His original designs were genre-defying and have now become his signature look. His style can be polarizing, frequently incorporating bright primary colors and geometric shapes in unexpected ways. The word “playful” gets thrown around a lot in the watch world, but it truly defines the Silberstein design language – they just have a way of making you smile. And that’s exactly what this new collaboration with Yema is designed to do. It is a 40mm dual crown dive watch in Black DLC Grade 5 Titanium with micro-blasted finish. The Yema x Alain Silberstein Marine features a crown at 4 o’clock for time setting and win...
Time+Tide
Rediscovering my spirit of adventure with the Doxa SUB 300T Sharkhunter Clive Cussler
Jamie's not a big fan of "pre-distressed" watches, but found Doxa's second Clive Cussler watch surprisingly compelling.The post Rediscovering my spirit of adventure with the Doxa SUB 300T Sharkhunter Clive Cussler appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Primer On The Most Divisive Of All Wines: Sherry
One of the wines Ken Gargett brought to a recent wine tasting with friends was a sherry, the Equipo Navazos La Bota de Manzanilla Pasada No 80, Bota Punta. Some among you will have no doubt that such a wine demands Grand Cru status, while others will be horrified at the thought. And so it was at the dinner. But let's just talk about sherry for a moment, shall we?
Worn & Wound
Review: Christopher Ward’s Best Diver Ever? The C60 Trident Lumière
When Christopher Ward announced the C60 Trident Lumière a few weeks back, the emphasis-errr-the spotlight was put on using massive Globolight lume plots on the dial. Twelve individually molded lume-infused ceramic monoliths promised to glow like cartoon uranium studded the dial per hour. A dial they claimed cost them 4x the usual. Well, after a few weeks with the watch, while I can attest that the lume is very impressive, it’s not why the C60 Trident Lumière is successful. Rather, it’s simply because it’s the best-executed tool/sports watch the brand has made, at least that I’ve encountered. The proportions are refined, the finishing is excellent, and the aesthetic is cohesive. The C60 Trident Lumière (just Lumière from here out), like the Twelve X and Bel Canto, demonstrates that Christopher Ward is a brand operating at a level on par with or higher than big Swiss brands at an equivalent price, a function of, but not a given, with their D2C model. However, it’s perhaps more impressive in some respects than those other two watches because it’s not a showpiece. No, the Lumière is a mainline, if higher priced, offering for the brand. Which is to say, it’s a sign of what they can do on a “normal” watch and, thus, perhaps, a sign of what to expect in the future. But, enough hyperbole. Clearly, I am a bit taken with the Lumière, so let’s get into the details. $2390 Review: Christopher Ward’s Best Diver Ever? The C60 Trident Lumière Case Grade 2 ...
Fratello
Hands-On: The Breitling Premier Datora Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary
The Breitling Premier Datora Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary is the dressiest release from the trio of red gold beauties. Its inky black dial and traditional case design make it a beauty that can be worn in various situations. Today, we’ll look at this complicated chronograph in more detail. I remember when the Premier returned in […] Visit Hands-On: The Breitling Premier Datora Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Delma Oceanmaster Oliver Heer Ocean Racing, with Full-Lume Dial
This year, Swiss watchmaking brand Delma celebrates 100 years since the company which led to its creation was founded in Lengnau with a few notable exemplars released to mark the occasion, like the Delma 1924 Tourbillon, made in collaboration with the renowned La Chaux-de-Fonds watchmaker Olivier Mory, or the Delma Heritage Chronograph 100 years. Also, […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Louis Moinet Starman Flying Tourbillon
The Louis Moinet Starman is the latest release from the small Swiss brand that specializes in creating rare and extraordinary watches. The brand often blends exotic materials with high-level complications. Because of their low production numbers, Louis Moinet watches aren’t for everyone, but they’re always worth a look. Every release from Louis Moinet is worth […] Visit Introducing: The Louis Moinet Starman Flying Tourbillon to read the full article.
Deployant
New: HYT S1 Titanium Japan Limited Edition
HYT launches their new S1 - "S" for Sport with a pre-launch release of a special Japan Limited Edition in titanium. Only 8 pieces.