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Results for Lange Pour le Mérite Series

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Revisiting Shinola: the New Black Ceramic Monster Worn & Wound
Shinola Mar 11, 2024

Revisiting Shinola: the New Black Ceramic Monster

I first took serious notice of Shinola when the brand released its limited edition yacht timer, the Shinola Mackinac in 2022. It’s a funky, vintage inspired design, with a square case, circular yellow-orange dial, and pops of blue that make it an eye-catching piece, perfect for summer. I bought it-and probably overpaid, but, hey, everyone’s got that watch they bought with their heart not their financial sense-and at the same time bought into Shinola’s story as a company that pays homage to its Detroit roots and assembles their watches in America. The Mackinac really seems to represent a turning point for the company. Its release was followed by a string of watches seemingly designed for watch enthusiasts who took issue with Shinola’s pricey, quartz-heavy early catalog. Take the latest addition to the Shinola lineup: the Ceramic Monster, which I had the opportunity to spend a week with recently. The Monster line has always had the best case design of any of Shinola’s watches-particularly with the subtly curved lugs, which here allow the accompanying strap to be flush with the case, unlike other Shinola models which feature straight, spindly lugs-but the Ceramic Monster is the first in the lineup to look truly distinct from other brands’ divers. This is thanks not just to the color change-the watch is all black with some red and white highlights -but to the subtle rippling wave pattern featured on the dial meant to evoke a choppy day on the Great Lake...

Vintage Watches: An Omega 30T2 With A Sterling Silver Case Fratello
Omega 30T2 Mar 11, 2024

Vintage Watches: An Omega 30T2 With A Sterling Silver Case

Today, we’ll take a closer look at a fascinating watch that I recently purchased at auction. As we’ll see, the watch brings together several notable details that separate it from other 30T2 models from the period. It was a gamble, but it has turned out to be a rewarding one thus far. I don’t often […] Visit Vintage Watches: An Omega 30T2 With A Sterling Silver Case to read the full article.

Annual Calendars Are Goldilocks Complications: Not Too Hot, Not Too Cold, Just Right Quill & Pad
Mar 9, 2024

Annual Calendars Are Goldilocks Complications: Not Too Hot, Not Too Cold, Just Right

Sometimes perpetual calendars are too complicated but a simple calendar just doesn't cut it anymore because nearly half the months have less than 31 days, making it five adjustments a year too many for some. But don’t fret, there is a middle ground between the most basic calendar watches and complex perpetual calendars: the annual calendar automatically adjusts for each month with 30 or 31 days, meaning just one adjustment per year for the owner in February. Here's a brief history of the complication.

Meet More Enthusiasts Than Ever Before at the 2024 Windup Watch Fair San Francisco Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Fortis Mar 8, 2024

Meet More Enthusiasts Than Ever Before at the 2024 Windup Watch Fair San Francisco

If you’re enthusiastic about watches, gear, and gathering with other equally enthusiastic individuals-the Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco this year will be unlike any other watch event you’ve attended. We are thrilled to be returning to San Francisco, in an even more impactful way than ever. The Windup Watch Fair will be one of the first events in the newly reopened Gateway Pavilion on Pier 2 at the Fort Mason Center for Arts & Culture. With stunning views of the Golden Gate Bridge, this architectural renovation is an idyllic spot to gather, meet new brands, try new products, and experience enthusiasm together. It comes complete with breakout rooms for live podcasts, special guest speakers, and enthusiast group meetups. You won’t want to miss this iconic San Francisco experience. Windup Watch Fair San Francisco Friday, May 3 – Sunday, May 5, 2024 Gateway Pavilion at Fort Mason Center for Arts & Culture San Francisco, CA We will be joined by five amazing Lead Sponsors, some who are returning to San Francisco in this capacity, and others who are joining us for the first time in this position. The Lead Sponsors for Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2024 are: Alpina, anOrdain, Christopher Ward, Fortis, and Oris. We couldn’t be more thrilled for this incredible line up. In addition to these fantastic Lead Sponsors, they’ll be accompanied by a full complement of your favorite watch brands from around the world. Include multiple first time newcomers to the Windup W...

Introducing – A Mint Green Palette for the Breguet Reine de Naples 8918 Monochrome
Breguet Reine de Naples 8918 Mar 8, 2024

Introducing – A Mint Green Palette for the Breguet Reine de Naples 8918

As the leading watchmaker of his day, Abraham-Louis Breguet enjoyed the patronage of France’s royalty and aristocracy. Among the names on his A-list was Napoleon Bonaparte’s youngest sister, Caroline Murat, also known as the Queen of Naples. A keen collector of Breguet’s timepieces, one of the 30 pieces she commissioned from Breguet was a watch […]

Explained: Barrels, Mainsprings, and the Trade-off Between Power Reserve and Energy SJX Watches
Mar 8, 2024

Explained: Barrels, Mainsprings, and the Trade-off Between Power Reserve and Energy

Every mechanical watch employs at least one mainspring barrel as its energy source. When a watch is wound, the coils of the mainspring tighten, storing potential energy which is then slowly released through the gear train to the escapement. The mainspring is enclosed in a toothed barrel, essentially a drum covered by gear teeth. As a result the barrel is often considered to be the first wheel of the going train.  Although one is the norm, two or even more barrels can be employed, typically to generate more energy. Double barrel movements usually feature two mainsprings kinematically linked in one of two ways: in parallel or in series. The number of mainsprings, energy stored, and power reserve are illustrated with equations (1), (2), and (3): As described by equation (1), the energy of a single barrel E is a function of its torque, angular discharge velocity and running time (autonomy). Linking two identical barrels naturally means having twice the energy, so 2E. By convenient association, equation (2) exploits the available energy to double the torque sent to the gear train, while equation (3) takes advantage of the total energy by doubling the running time.  Parallel barrels The parallel arrangement of barrels embodies equation (2), which delivers twice the torque, increasing the energy available to run the movement (but not increasing the running time). Here two barrels unwind at the same time on a centre pinion connected to a second mobile of the going train. An embo...

VPC Debuts with the Type 37HW SJX Watches
VPC Debuts Mar 7, 2024

VPC Debuts with the Type 37HW

Founded last year by Thomas van Straaten, VPC is a Dutch micro brand making its debut with the Type 37HW. Mr van Straaten, who formerly works for an Amsterdam-based watch dealer and now writes for media platform Fratello, started VPC with the goal of creating the “ultimate” everyday watch in his words. VPC is short for Venustas Per Constantiam, Latin that translates as either  “beauty through constancy” or “charm through restraint.”  Featuring numerous clever details, the Type 37HW is the result of Mr van Straaten’s own experience owning, and later growing bored with, numerous watches that, in his view, featured compromised designs. He appears to have approached this problem forensically, considering everything from the bracelet end-links to the typography on the dial. Initial Thoughts The Type 37HW is an impressive debut that manages to stand out in a crowded segment of the watch market thanks to several interesting details. The central premise of the Type 37HW is that it is a “go anywhere, do anything”, or GADA, watch. Almost every aspect of the watch appears to have been designed with this use case in mind.  The Type 37HW offers goldilocks proportions, and is unusually slim at just 9.8 mm thick (including 2 mm for the domed sapphire crystal). The svelte profile is likely possible thanks to the use of a manually wound Sellita SW216-1. Unfortunately, the combination of a screw-down crown and a manually wound movement – one with a relatively short 45...

First Look – Seiko Updates Its Prospex 1965 Divers With The New SPB451, SPB453 & SPB455 Monochrome
Seiko Updates Mar 7, 2024

First Look – Seiko Updates Its Prospex 1965 Divers With The New SPB451, SPB453 & SPB455

Although Seiko’s expertise in waterproof watchmaking goes back a very long way, it wasn’t until 1965 that the Japanese manufacturer entered the professional dive watch market. Ever since, plenty of low- and high-end dive watches have been introduced with a good number of them becoming genuine icons. Collections like the 5 Sports, the Turtle, the […]

First Look – The Wondrous Beauty of the Louis Vuitton Escale Cabinet of Wonders Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Escale Cabinet Mar 6, 2024

First Look – The Wondrous Beauty of the Louis Vuitton Escale Cabinet of Wonders

Appointed director of Louis Vuitton Watches in 2021, Jean Arnault’s strategy to reposition the brand as an elite player involves a combination of technical audacity, refreshing design and an incredible devotion to traditional decorative techniques. Wielding the best tools, Arnault can count on the watchmaking wizardry of the brand’s in-house La Fabrique du Temps atelier […]

Fratello On Air: What Would Make You Buy A New Cartier? Fratello
Cartier ? Welcome back Mar 5, 2024

Fratello On Air: What Would Make You Buy A New Cartier?

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we’re asking what would make us buy a Cartier watch. It’s a good question because neither of your co-hosts owns a timepiece from the incredibly popular brand. As we’ll see, the reasons have little to do with what’s currently on offer and more to […] Visit Fratello On Air: What Would Make You Buy A New Cartier? to read the full article.

Hands-On: Spending Time With The CWC W10 Navigator Fratello
Mar 3, 2024

Hands-On: Spending Time With The CWC W10 Navigator

I am fond of Cabot Watch Company, also known as CWC. It is a no-nonsense British watch brand that has focused on tool-watch designs since the early 1970s. Something about the design ethos of CWC reminds me of the golden epoch of 20th-century mechanical watchmaking. Today, we’ll look at the CWC W10 Navigator Automatic General […] Visit Hands-On: Spending Time With The CWC W10 Navigator to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Ming 29.01 Dubai Edition Fratello
Ming Mar 2, 2024

Hands-On With The Ming 29.01 Dubai Edition

I’ve truly enjoyed my time with various Ming watches. I’ve purchased a handful of them and have always marveled at the attention to detail and innovative use of materials. Since discovering them several years ago, though, I had never gone hands-on with one of the brand’s more expensive models. Today, I’ll share my thoughts on […] Visit Hands-On With The Ming 29.01 Dubai Edition to read the full article.

Nomos Gets Ready For A Colorful Spring - Introducing The Club Campus In Nonstop Red And Endless Blue Fratello
Nomos Gets Ready Feb 29, 2024

Nomos Gets Ready For A Colorful Spring - Introducing The Club Campus In Nonstop Red And Endless Blue

Even without mentioning the name, if I tell you these watches have an all-polished 36 or 38.5mm case, Roman and Arabic numerals, a hand-wound movement, and colorful dials with a contrasting sub-seconds hand, you’ll probably already know what watches I’m talking about. The Nomos Club Campus has become quite an icon for the young Saxon […] Visit Nomos Gets Ready For A Colorful Spring - Introducing The Club Campus In Nonstop Red And Endless Blue to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: Horological Hidden Gems Under €5K Fratello
Feb 29, 2024

Fratello Talks: Horological Hidden Gems Under €5K

Are rising watch prices getting you down? Well, we’ve got good news for you. In this week’s episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho, Timo, and RJ take a look at some horological hidden gems under €5K. These are watches you can buy either new or pre-owned that offer something truly interesting for the price. If you […] Visit Fratello Talks: Horological Hidden Gems Under €5K to read the full article.

Exploring Evergreens: The Omega Seamaster 120 Ref. 168.1501 Fratello
Omega Seamaster 120 Ref 168.1501 Feb 28, 2024

Exploring Evergreens: The Omega Seamaster 120 Ref. 168.1501

In this installment of Exploring Evergreens, I’ll take a look at the Omega Seamaster 120 ref. 168.1501. This was a mainstream model in Omega’s catalog for nearly a decade during the 1990s. Today, however, it has been all but forgotten. It’s a clean design that has stood the test of time, and it ultimately paved […] Visit Exploring Evergreens: The Omega Seamaster 120 Ref. 168.1501 to read the full article.

A Minimalist, All-Gold Cartier Tank LC for Watches of Switzerland SJX Watches
Cartier Tank LC Feb 28, 2024

A Minimalist, All-Gold Cartier Tank LC for Watches of Switzerland

To mark the 100th anniversary of the biggest retailer in the United Kingdom, Cartier is introducing the Tank Louis Cartier Watches of Switzerland 100th Anniversary. Clad entirely in gold, the 100-piece limited edition features the classic Tank LC case matched with a minimalist dial featuring a sunburst brushing and a pair of mirrored Roman numerals along with blued steel sword hands, while the movement is mechanical, specifically, hand wind. Initial Thoughts The Tank LC is an undoubtedly a classic dress watch, perhaps even iconic, but not all Tank LCs are created equal. While all share the same case, the dials vary substantially. The Watches of Switzerland (WOS) edition stands out, even amongst the numerous recent iterations of the model. Here the dial manages to be both minimalist and extravagant because it has barely anything markings yet is entirely in gold, with the reflective numerals adding extra shine. Because this is identical to the standard model aside from the dial, some might find it too small at 25.5 mm wide. It does, however, make an excellent black tie watch, particularly in this all-gold guise. The WOS edition costs £12,700 including taxes, which is about the same as the equivalent standard version of the Tank LC. In fact, it’s £100 less expensive than the multi-tone dial. This certainly makes this a compelling proposition since it is looks very much like a classic Cartier yet different from the other versions of the model. Just gold The WOS edition is ...

New Dials For The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar And MB&F; LM Perpetual EVO Fratello
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Perpetual Feb 28, 2024

New Dials For The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar And MB&F; LM Perpetual EVO

Sometimes, adding a dial color can shine a new light on a watch. Both H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F; have done just that. That’s why we’ll unpack both releases in one article. The first is the much-praised H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar, and the second is the stunning MB&F; LM Perpetual Evo. […] Visit New Dials For The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar And MB&F; LM Perpetual EVO to read the full article.

Hands-on – The Edouard Koehn World Heritage II, a Rare Combination of Worldtime and Alarm Functions Monochrome
Feb 26, 2024

Hands-on – The Edouard Koehn World Heritage II, a Rare Combination of Worldtime and Alarm Functions

Operating out of La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, for several years now, the brand Edouard Koehn carries four distinct collections. Of particular interest is the model introduced in 2021 as part of the World Heritage line, blending two practical complications: world time and alarm functions. While several mechanical watches offer combinations of an alarm with a GMT […]

IFL Watches Introduces The G-Shock CasiOak Spitfire And Supersonic Limited Editions Fratello
Casio ak Spitfire Feb 26, 2024

IFL Watches Introduces The G-Shock CasiOak Spitfire And Supersonic Limited Editions

The great thing about custom-made dials is that their inspiration is endless. The team at IFL Watches shows that time and again. For its latest pair of releases, the Swedish brand is inspired by the world of aviation. To be more exact, the first watch pays homage to the iconic past of the aviation spirit, […] Visit IFL Watches Introduces The G-Shock CasiOak Spitfire And Supersonic Limited Editions to read the full article.

Back To Basics: 10 Mistakes To Avoid As A Beginner Watch Collector Fratello
Feb 26, 2024

Back To Basics: 10 Mistakes To Avoid As A Beginner Watch Collector

In this installment of Back To Basics, I’ll go into typical mistakes that beginner watch collectors often make. These are the common pitfalls that newcomers might find themselves running into. After reading this, you, as a new watch enthusiast, will hopefully be able to steer clear of them! And that might just save you some […] Visit Back To Basics: 10 Mistakes To Avoid As A Beginner Watch Collector to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Brilliant RZE Fortitude GMT Nighthawk - Can It Get Any Better Than This? Fratello
Feb 25, 2024

Hands-On With The Brilliant RZE Fortitude GMT Nighthawk - Can It Get Any Better Than This?

RZE is a brand that manages to impress me with every release. While not every one of the brand’s models might be right up my alley in terms of looks, there is no denying that RZE offers spectacular value for money. My favorite models from the brand are the Resolute Pro, Endeavor, and Fortitude. In […] Visit Hands-On With The Brilliant RZE Fortitude GMT Nighthawk - Can It Get Any Better Than This? to read the full article.

A Grand Seiko “First” 3180 Remake in Titanium and Powder Blue SJX Watches
Grand Seiko First” 3180 Remake Feb 24, 2024

A Grand Seiko “First” 3180 Remake in Titanium and Powder Blue

Having just opened its first boutique in Singapore, Grand Seiko has now announced a limited edition especially for the store. The Elegance Collection Singapore Boutique Exclusive SBGW315 is essentially a new take on the “First” cal. 3180 remake. Instead of traditional colours and materials, the SBGW315 renders the familiar design in titanium with a patterned, powder blue dial. Initial thoughts Grand Seiko releases a lot of limited editions – a Spring Drive pair was just announced two weeks ago – but the SBGW315 unexpectedly manages to be different. For one, the base model of the edition is infrequently iterated. The last variant of the “First” remake I can think of was from early 2023 when Grand Seiko unveiled a version with a maki-e lacquer dial. Additionally, past “First” limited editions were more traditional in colour, with plain dials in either silver, cream, or dark colours like black or blue. The SBGW315, on the other hand, combines the aesthetics of the “First” with a decidedly contemporary powder blue dial finished with a radial feathered pattern. While the colour and pattern are hardly novel, they give this watch a distinctive look. Even amongst the numerous Grand Seiko limited editions, the SBGW315 stands out. And it will continue to be uncommon as long as Grand Seiko doesn’t roll out more version of the model in additional colours – which is an overly optimistic assumption given the brand’s inclination towards such watches. A new(ish)...

Interview – “India Will Surely Be Among The Fastest-Growing Markets,” Says Yasho Saboo, Chairman of Ethos Watches Monochrome
Rolex but also many more Feb 21, 2024

Interview – “India Will Surely Be Among The Fastest-Growing Markets,” Says Yasho Saboo, Chairman of Ethos Watches

The watch industry and its market are in constant evolution, with new brands appearing almost daily. The distribution has to face intense volatility due to the duplication of selling channels, the increased pressure of business combinations and the recent rise of certified pre-owned (CPO), which concerns Rolex but also many more brands. A handful of […]

Sylvester Stallone’s Panerai split-seconds chrono watch worn in The Expendables is up for auction Time+Tide
Panerai split-seconds chrono watch worn Feb 20, 2024

Sylvester Stallone’s Panerai split-seconds chrono watch worn in The Expendables is up for auction

Sylvester Stallone is a well-documented watch collector, and pieces of his going up for auction are by no means an entirely new phenomenon. But, when watches from famous individuals hit the mainstream auction block – Phillips, Sotheby’s, and Christie’s – there is a lot of marketing and PR behind those lots and they inevitably get … ContinuedThe post Sylvester Stallone’s Panerai split-seconds chrono watch worn in The Expendables is up for auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.