3,759 articles · 71 videos found · page 25 of 128
Monochrome
The global watch industry is valued in the tens of billions, yet for decades it has functioned through a fragmented web of dealers, collectors, auction houses, and marketplaces. While trust and personal relationships have traditionally held the system together, the trade has long been marked by inefficiencies, missed opportunities, and a lack of transparency. In […]
Monochrome
Born in 2016, the Nebula watch by Arnold & Son set out to make the movement the dial: a perfectly balanced, openworked stage where seven radiating bridges, twin barrels and a dial-side balance create a calm, symmetrical look. Over the years, the concept has been refined (and downsized) without losing its architectural clarity. Marking 75 […]
Teddy Baldassarre
The independent sector is where some of the most interesting, imaginative, and experimental designs are happening in the watch world, and Christopher Ward has been a standout in the category since its Bel Canto hit the scene. But today, I’m turning my attention to one of its less-hyped collections, one that is rather tame compared to the rest of the brand’s catalog, the Christopher Ward C63 Sealander. It strikes me as an outlier within the Christopher Ward universe – not that it’s without its own particular flair, but I would say that compared to the bold experiments with case architecture, haute horology level movements, and general quirky panache that I typically associate the brand with, the C63 Sealander is remarkably tame. The questions of the day are: how is this watch situated within the brand’s own offerings? What works about this watch, and what could be improved? Finally, how did we arrive at this relatively minimal watch in the first place? Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Context While other watchmakers have centuries-long histories, the Christopher Ward origin story is comparatively contemporary, officially founded in 2004. In that relatively short scope of time, the brand has evolved into one of the most successful independent brands out there, and the Christopher Ward of today has expanded its scope to include just about every flavor of watch utility, aesthetic, and functionality one could dream of, all while keeping its price point extremely competi...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Seiko SARB033 has joined the ranks of Seiko watches that are more popular and coveted than ever - despite never having been sold outside Seiko's home country of Japan and also despite exiting the market entirely back in 2018. In this article, we explore the SARB033 and its closest siblings from the elegant collection and try to uncover what makes these hard-to-find timepieces so appealing. Seiko SARB Collection History: Seiko introduced its SARB collection exclusively to the Japanese market in 2006, positioning it as a more upscale alternative to the sportier 5 Sport line, which also offered watches with the brand’s own automatic movements at very approachable prices. The SARB series (no, the letters don’t stand for anything, we checked) was built around the Seiko Caliber 6R15 movement, more on which below, introduced by Seiko one year prior. The first generation of SARB watches (SARB001, SARB002, and SARB005) appears to take inspiration from the King Seiko “Vanac” editions that made a brief but impactful splash on the market in the 1970s, with their angular cases, funky dial colors and textures, and faceted crystals. The next wave (SARB007, 009, 011) goes for more of a rounded, “Retro Modern” character, with vintage designs influencing the three-hand-date dials. On the heels of that trio came the first models in the series to really break through to widespread enthusiast acclaim outside their native Japan, the mountaineering-inspired “Alpinist” m...
SJX Watches
One of the most famous Chinese artists of the modern era, Xu Beihong is best known for his ink paintings of horses and birds, which are amongst the most valuable examples of 20th century Chinese art. Three of those equine works have been reproduced in miniature enamel on the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel “Xu Beihong”. Presented in the classic Grande Taille case size, this limited edition trio continues Jaeger-LeCoultre’s longstanding tradition of transforming the case back of the Reverso into a blank canvas for art. Past works that have been miniaturised for the Reverso include Claude Monet’s Venice paintings and Shahnameh, an epic poem of ancient Persia. Initial thoughts Like other miniature enamelled Reversos, the Xu Beihong trio is impressive. The original artworks are already beautiful, and they have been reproduced in exceptionally fine detail. Even if you don’t like the works, the enamelling is clearly top quality. But like the other recent enamel Reversos, the Xu Beihong trio is expensive in comparative terms. The retail price for similar watches was almost half today’s level six years ago. This is not unique to JLC of course. But JLC doesn’t have the cachet, after a few slow years, for such strong pricing, unlike say, Patek Philippe or a hot indie brand. That’s not entirely fair since they are beautiful watches with finely executed miniature enamelling, but it is the state of affairs. Two Horses Horse running and standing Notably, this is ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor has been on a roll in recent years with expanding its contemporary repertoire of watches, and has debuted several heaters across its collection this year alone. But if I were to pick out one model as a standout among the bunch over the past few years, I think that a release from 2024 still takes the cake as its most impactful addition to its modern catalog – the Black Bay 58 GMT. I know everyone might not agree with me here, and we’re all entitled to our own unique favorites (I will say the Black Bay Pro is a close second, for transparency), but there’s something about the Black Bay GMT that continuously impresses me. From its wearability to its versatility and great color palette, there’s a lot to love. So, as a testament to my Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT favoritism, today, I’m diving into the depths with this watch, exploring how it came to be, what works about it, what it possibly leaves to be desired, and, of course, some speculative guesses on where I think the brand might go next. Some Context and History As always, it’s necessary to begin at, well, the beginning, and do a little bit of digging into the brand’s legacy to chart the trajectory of how we get to the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT. For an even further exploration into the longstanding history of Tudor GMT watches, I will refer you now to this definitive guide on the subject here. Unlike its luxurious older sibling, Tudor’s connection with GMT functionality can’t really be traced back anywher...
Monochrome
It’s often said that the first motor race was held when the second car was built, and although that’s probably a bit of an exaggeration, it’s true that racing is almost as old as the car itself. Ever since the Benz Patent Motorwagen of 1885, people have been captured by the thrill of going fast on […]
Monochrome
First introduced in 2011 and refreshed in 2016, the Saxonia Thin has always been the most distilled expression of A. Lange & Söhne’s philosophy of elegance, reducing watchmaking to its essentials with just two hands and a perfectly judged sense of proportion. This year, the manufacture presents two new special editions that bring a modern […]
Worn & Wound
Standards and certifications in watchmaking were primarily developed for chronometry, as well as to reassure the buyer that their watch had been thoroughly tested to a certain level of accuracy. The standards we see most often in the technical specifications are COSC, METAS, and other company or regional chronometry certifications. In modern watchmaking, other key standards like the ISO 6425 dive watch standard, which was developed in the 1990s and followed by watch companies, also come into play. These standards were largely based on various military set standards for watches; however, since each military set their own requirements, there was not one universally followed standard. The International Organization for Standardization (ISO) published specific requirements and testing procedures for a watch to be officially designated a “Diver’s watch”. While there is no ISO standard for pilot’s watches, there are specific requirements set by militaries around the world. One of the most well-known standards is from the WWII German pilot’s watch known as the “Beobachtungsuhren” or “B-Uhren.” B-Uhren pilot’s watch standards are well documented and are still followed by many watch companies to this day. In March 2012, Sinn lead an initiative in collaboration with the Faculty of Aerospace Technology at the Aachen University of Applied Sciences to create TESTAF – Technical Standard for Pilot Watches. TESTAF was developed so that a pilot’s watch meets all mod...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Longines Spirit Pilot watch collection was released back in 2020 and I recall going hands-on with the then-new pilot’s watches, which were a blend of contemporary with a dash of vintage styling. Since then, the brand has clearly listened to the response from enthusiasts who have been generally receptive to the collection, but with some consistent points of criticism. Namely, the five stars on the dial were divisive and even though it comes in 37,40, and 42mm case sizes, none felt like they hit that “Goldilocks” zone for a lot of people. Fortunately for those buyers, Longines just dropped two new watches that might be the best in the collection so far: the Longines Spirit 39mm three-hand and the new Flyback in a 39.5mm case. Longines Spirit 39mm Pilot's Watch First, let's look at the Spirit Pilot three-hand watch which comes in a stainless steel case measuring 39mm wide and 11.5mm thick with a lug-to-lug measurement of 47mm. While the gap between 39mm and 40mm doesn’t sound too dramatic, the latter has a lug-to-lug that measures just shy of 50mm which is simply too big for a lot of people. And 37mm is just too small for many of those same people. So, with that established, it’s not hard to see why this 39mm case size is so well received. The rest of the case is simple enough with alternating brushed and polished finishes, a sleek bezel, and a domed sapphire crystal with dual-sided AR coating. Finally, it also offers 100 meters of water resistance. Then there...
Fratello
If you’ve been sleeping on Aquastar, it’s high time to get on board and take a look at the brand’s dive watches. Since 2020, the revitalized company has released a flurry of watches under its two core collections. The Deepstar models represent the dawn of recreational diving during the ’60s. On the other hand, the […] Visit Hands-On With The New Aquastar Benthos Professional to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The independent watch space in Japan is one of the most interesting in the world right now. There have, of course, always been a lot of great watches coming out of Japan, but the last few years have seen a real surge in enthusiast focused releases from brands at literally every price point, and they’ve been redefining what a Japanese watch looks and feels like. We recently covered the latest release from Ōtsuka Lōtec, a daring haute horology experiment with a six figure price tag, and this year also saw the unveiling of Naoya Hida’s first perpetual calendar, which, for me personally, is still one of the very best watches I’ve laid hands on in 2025. These watches, and others, make for great examples of the breadth of Japanese watchmaking, but not everything new and interesting is prohibitively expensive. Case in point, Kiwame Tokyo, an entirely new brand that recently came across our radar. Kiwame is the brainchild of Masami Watanabe, a 30 year veteran of the watch industry who began his career importing luxury watches from European brands to his native Japan. Over time, he also became interested in the burgeoning microbrand scene, and the stated goal of Kiwame is to create a “truly Japanese” microbrand that captures the refinement and craft that is often associated with Japanese design principles. Kiwame debuted their first two watches only a short time ago and they quickly sold out of each 99 piece limited edition (an additional run is promised for Novembe...
Fratello
Longines and aviation have been intertwined for more than a century. The brand supplied navigation and timekeeping instruments for some of the earliest pioneers of flight, from transatlantic adventurers to polar explorers. That history continues to shape the Spirit collection, launched in 2020 as a modern take on classic pilot’s watches. Now, five years on, […] Visit Introducing: The New Longines Spirit Pilot And Spirit Pilot Flyback to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
In celebration of their 20th anniversary, the self-proclaimed “world’s first horological concept laboratory”, MB&F;, has a slate of special editions to remind the world of their experimental timepieces that push the boundaries of watchmaking (and watch wearing). Named for founder Maximilian Büsser (and friends), the brand’s back-catalog of inventive pieces has been plundered, with a total of 20 limited edition watches to be given away to the lucky few. The catch here is that instead of making the limited editions available commercially, MB&F; will be holding two raffles, each yielding 10 watches to 10 lucky winners. The first of the two raffles is more exclusive, being open only to “Tribe” members; aka, current owners of MB&F; watches. Becoming a Tribe member requires registering your MB&F; watch, and opens the door to special editions, collectibles, warranty extensions, and other perks. This Tribe-exclusive raffle promises winners one of 10 limited edition LM101 Longhorn pieces. The LM101 is among the most prized “Legacy Machine” watches MB&F; makes, and the Longhorn case is seen infrequently in MB&F;’s catalog, and is perhaps even more sought after. It’s named for its distinctive long lugs, here extending from a 40mm stainless steel case. The colorway is sober silver with black subdials and blue accents on the hands. A caseback inscription on the reverse side reads “Fortune Favors the Bold”. The second raffle is tied directly to the much more acces...
Monochrome
Depending on your age/musical tastes, the colour purple may evoke memories of “Purple Haze” by Jimi Hendrix or “Purple Rain” by Prince, but whatever song comes to mind, the undeniable fact is that purple is a bold, statement colour. As a brand that has never been shy of colours, it is fitting that Norqain has […]
Monochrome
Once an American brand, now owned by the Swatch Group, Hamilton is a watchmaker with more than timepieces. It has fascinating stories to tell. We can’t forget the brand’s involvement in cinema, having been featured in over 500 movies since 1932 and its appearance in Shanghai Express, and then important features such as a futuristic […]
Worn & Wound
For as long as I’ve been writing about watches (and in fact much longer) Hamilton has been associated with the silver screen. They are incredibly proud of their long history of popularizing specific watches through their appearances in movies. It’s a tradition that goes back decades, to when Elvis wore a Hamilton Ventura in Blue Hawaii, and has continued through the years with ties to some of the most widely seen films of the recent past, including Oppenheimer, Dune Part II, and more. Lately, however, Hamilton has shifted their focus just slightly by fully embracing what many see as a category that is equal to film in terms of storytelling and visual impact: gaming. The new Hamilton Khaki Field Auto 38mm Call of Duty Special Edition is the brand’s third watch that is specifically tied to a videogame, and follows an ambitious project made to coincide with the latest release in the Death Stranding series. The new version of the Khaki Field seen here is, at least on the surface, a bit easier to digest than the avant-garde Boulton concept seen in Death Stranding. And that certainly makes a great deal of sense for Call of Duty, which is, as these things go, a far more grounded gaming experience. It is, notably, one of those games that has broken through to the popular culture even beyond serious gamers. It’s a title that just about everyone knows, even if they don’t know they know it, a notion that seems to bolster Hamilton’s decision to lean into the video game wor...
Time+Tide
September 2025 has been a particularly stacked month as far as watch releases go... But here were our favourite new watches from the month.The post Geneva Watch Days and beyond: the Time+Tide Team shares our favourite watches of September 2025 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
It might seem like every brand is celebrating some sort of anniversary in 2025. Indeed, several of the year’s best releases have been tied to a major anniversary of some kind. Marking its own 20th anniversary, MB&F; has already released a several new models but has seen fit to do something else suitably outrageous, and is set to give away ten pieces each of the LM101 Longhorn 20th Anniversary (pictured above) and M.A.D.1S 20th Anniversary, new models developed especially for the occasion. Ten pieces of each watch will be given away following a raffle in October. Registered members of the Tribe, an MB&F; owners club, will be entered for a chance to win the LM101, while those who have previously put their name in for a M.A.D. Edition will have a chance to win the M.A.D.1S. The M.A.D.1S 20th Anniversary Initial thoughts The concept of deciding allocations of low-volume watches via a lottery system is one that gained acceptance during the heady days of the pandemic; MB&F; has been something of a pioneer in this regard. But ordinarily the raffle offers a chance to buy a watch, rather than a complimentary giveaway. In normal circumstances it would be difficult to rationalise a free giveaway like this, since to some extent the luxury industry is held up by the notion of exclusivity born of high prices. But MB&F; is not a typical luxury brand, and has approached the raffle in a sensible way. The limited production of both watches, just 10 pieces of each, will create a different kind...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Rolex "crown" logo is one of the most recognizable brand marks in the world, signifying the Swiss watchmaker's international renown for exclusivity, luxury, and prestige of ownership. It has been around longer than you probably realize, and, much in keeping with the ethos of Rolex, has seen very little change (although that's not to say it's been entirely unchanged) over its decades-long existence. Here's what you should know about Rolex's legendary corporate symbol and the role it continues to play in defining Rolex as a world leader in luxury watches. Origin of Rolex Brand Name Before the Rolex logo came the Rolex brand name. And unbeknownst to many enthusiasts these days, their favorite brand’s name has not always been Rolex. The original name, Wilsdorf & Davis, referenced the surnames of Hans Wilsdorf (above), a German entrepreneur schooled in the business of Swiss watchmaking, and his partner and brother-in-law, Alfred Davis, who founded the original company in London’s Hatton Garden commercial district in 1905. Wilsdorf was an early proponent of wristwatches, which in those days before World War I were still not as widely popular among gentlemen as pocket watches. The company assembled watches from cases and movements imported from Switzerland, where Wilsdorf had previously worked for a watch manufacturer and exporter, and exported them throughout the British Empire. Wilsdorf bought out Davis’s share of the company in 1919, right around the same time that...
Worn & Wound
Brew founder Jonathan Ferrer has been making “coffee timers” for years now. It’s a well established if not definitional part of his watch brand. Inspired by coffee culture, most Brew watches over the years have some mechanism to highlight the passing of 30 seconds, considered by most to be the ideal amount of time needed to pull the perfect espresso shot. I think just about everyone, including Jonathan, would agree that this timing mechanism works well as a brand signature, but that, for the most part, owners of Brew watches purchase them without thinking that they will definitely use it for coffee timing. It’s like buying a chronograph with a tachymeter scale – it’s there, you may even know exactly how to use it, but your enjoyment of the watch doesn’t derive from actively timing laps. That said, there are certainly some collectors, and perhaps professional baristas, who find real practicality in these coffee timers. But you’ll sometimes hear a common refrain: the analog means of timing a 30 second interval might not be the most user friendly in a pinch. Enter, the Metric Digital Blend, one of the most surprising watches we’ve seen this year. Housed in a familiar stainless steel Metric case, the Digital Blend is Brew’s first ana-digi watch, a throwback to the 1980s, and perhaps a truly useful espresso timer. Taking advantage of an LED display, the Digital Blend’s 30 second timer can be activated at the push of a button, with a helpful visual aid ...
Fratello
Cartier is a brand that has been on an absolute roll in recent years. Some readers may remember a time when self-proclaimed watch geeks unfairly considered Cartier “a jewelry brand that also sells watches.” However, the tide of perception has truly shifted in the last decade or so, and Cartier’s timepieces now seem hotter than […] Visit Entry-Level Cartier: Four Options From New To Vintage to read the full article.
Fratello
Switzerland, Germany, and Japan make up my “big three” of the watchmaking world, with France on the rise. Yet, of all these hubs, Japan has been slow to embrace the microbrand trend. Big brands, including Seiko, Grand Seiko, Citizen, Orient, and Casio, dominate the market. Recently, however, independents such as Kurono Tokyo, Hajime Asaoka, Kikuchi […] Visit Introducing: The Kiwame Tokyo Kurotsuki And Usuki Models to read the full article.
Fratello
Nivada Grenchen is always fun to explore. The brand was well regarded in the 20th century for tough tool watches, including a series that went to Antarctica. This led to the Antarctic watch line, and today, we’ll look at a vintage example. Revitalized in recent years, Nivada Grenchen has been going from strength to strength, […] Visit Value In Vintage: The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic to read the full article.
Monochrome
Cars and watches are a very natural fit, and have been so since the dawn of the automobile almost 140 years ago. And with that very simple concept in mind, it’s no surprise that we continue to see a wide range of new car-themed watches. Taking inspiration from iconic cars from the past, or the […]
Worn & Wound
At the end of summer 2014, Dad gave me my first mechanical watch. There was nothing ceremonial about it; he simply handed me the box in the car. “I’m starting a new tradition, and it’s a grown-up gift since you’re heading to college,” he said. I looked down at the box. It said Seiko. I was familiar with the brand. In fact, it was what I had been wearing up to that point: reference SNE039, a mid-sized solar-powered watch that Grandpa gave me when he saw me showing interest in it. I still have it. But this Seiko was different. It was a reference SKX173, a sibling of the beloved SKX007 dive watch that has led many a good man down the rabbit hole. It had a waterproof case, rotating dive bezel that I had no clue how to operate, and most importantly, an automatically winding movement. “It’s easy – just shake it a bit to get it going,” said Dad. (OGs will remember the caliber 7s26’s lack of hand winding). I took the watch out of the box and shuffled it back and forth gently to coax it to life. It did, and as I stared at the sweeping seconds hand, I marveled that a microscopic team of gears, levers, and springs were all working harmoniously just to tell time. As an incoming engineering student, I couldn’t have asked for a better gift. I secured the black rubber strap on my wrist, and that was that. The remainder of the summer was spent reading everything I could get my hands on about Seiko watches and mechanical timekeeping at large. The excitement of movin...
Fratello
Tissot is one of our favorite brands here at Fratello. The company’s blend of history and industry-leading value also makes it a popular pick among buyers. Often, at the heart of this value proposition is an impressive movement. The Powermatic 80 has been in production since 2012, but it still offers impressive specs. Watches such […] Visit Tissot’s Beating Heart: The Powermatic 80 And Powermatic 80 COSC to read the full article.
Monochrome
When you think about Tudor, you probably have in mind the image of a cool Submariner-inspired dive watch, with a retro-styled case and dial, and a solid manufacture movement by Kenissi inside. What I’ve just described is basically the Black Bay collection, which has been the brand’s cornerstone for over a decade. With this in […]
Monochrome
For three decades, the Cartier Prize for Watchmaking Talents of Tomorrow (or Prix des Talents Horlogers de Demain in French) has been a unique opportunity for aspiring young watchmakers, offering them both recognition and a platform to shape the future of the craft. Launched in 1995, the Prize embodies Cartier’s commitment to preserving centuries-old savoir-faire […]
Fratello
I have had the pleasure of covering releases from Louis Moinet for several years. By and large, most of the watches have featured wild complications and materials. They’ve been fun, limited, and expensive. Therefore, when the brand debuted the 1816 Chronograph at Watches and Wonders 2025, we took notice due to its more modern design. […] Visit Hands-On With The Louis Moinet 1806 Chronomètre d’Observatoire to read the full article.
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