Hodinkee
Introducing: The Monta Watches Triumph V2
The St. Louis-based microbrand updates its classic field watch with a new generation.
838 articles · 15 videos found · page 25 of 29
Hodinkee
The St. Louis-based microbrand updates its classic field watch with a new generation.
Fratello
We started our series about the people behind watch brands’ names with Abraham-Louis Breguet, arguably the greatest watchmaker ever. This week, instead of presenting you with another name behind a brand, we would like to introduce you to watchmaker/inventor George Daniels, who wrote an essential book about Breguet’s watchmaking philosophy. Like Breguet, Daniels got caught […] Visit Who Was George Daniels? - Fighting Quartz In Times Of Crisis to read the full article.
Monochrome
The name Santos at Cartier carries a lot of weight. One of Cartier’s oldest collections, named after Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who commissioned a watch from his friend Louis Cartier in 1904 to be worn while piloting his flying machines, it took on a slightly different vocation in recent years, becoming the brand’s vision of […]
Worn & Wound
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic first debuted at Baselworld 2017, and I remember every journalist I ran into, telling me to go check out the Bulgari booth. I met with Pascal Brandt (then marketing manager), and a genuine watch geek I had known for some time. He showed me Octo Finissimo Automatic in titanium, and it was a “Wow” moment. I felt like I was holding a future classic in my hands, comparable to someone holding the Royal Oak for the first time in Basel in 1972 (and yes, there is a Genta connection). I had a couple of initial thoughts when I first experienced the Octo – I knew Bulgari had already made two of the slimmest complication Octo Finissimo’s in 2015 and 2016, but I chalked that to a fashion brand making a high complication for their wealthiest clients. But this was different, Bulgari managed to pull off the slimmest automatic watch that is lightweight, yet durable, with a micro-rotor movement for about $12,000. The second thought was that this is something special and, for me, a must own piece. Before I get into the ownership aspect of the Octo, I will give a brief history on how Bulgari got elevated to a serious watchmaking brand. The story of Bulgari’s transformation from a luxury fashion brand to a high-end watchmaker began in the year 2000. The watch industry was struggling after the late 1990’s financial crisis. In July 2000, Bulgari paid 37.6 million Swiss francs to acquire Gerald Genta SA, Daniel Roth SA, as well as Manufacture de Ha...
Monochrome
A legend in his own lifetime and the name behind countless watch icons designed for other brands, Gérald Genta (1931-2011) also produced masterpieces for his eponymous brand founded in 1969, including the Grande Sonnerie, considered the most sophisticated and complex chiming watch in the world. The current custodian of the Gérald Genta brand is Louis […]
Fratello
Few watches have transcended time, trends, and geography quite like the Cartier Tank. The prototype emerged in 1917, during the turmoil of World War I, and displayed design inspiration from the robust geometry of the Renault FT-17 tanks on the Western Front. The original Tank was Louis Cartier’s bold vision of modern elegance. Its clean […] Visit Celebrating The Cartier Tank’s Evolving Legacy With The New Tank Américaine European Limited Edition to read the full article.
SJX Watches
This week’s podcast starts with two hot topics – retail prices of watches and “bundling”, or having to buy one watch (or several) in order to get something desirable. The episode also includes several watches we covered recently, including the Vacheron Constantin “Tribute to the Celestial” and the Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
SJX Watches
Breguet will very likely close its 250th anniversary this year with a bang: launching a 21st century Sympathique as a tribute to perhaps Abraham-Louis Breguet’s greatest invention, a clock that could autonomously wind, correct, and regulate a removable watch. While the brand has released no details, and there haven’t been any leaks, a series of patents gives us a peek at the new Sympathique. Notably, the patent drawings illustrate two possible companion watches: a 60 m water resistant Marine tourbillon and a Tradition. The latter is more interesting as it uses a novel form of Breguet’s échappement naturel, or natural escapement. We explain both the new Sympathique 2025 and the natural escapement using information gleaned from Breguet’s patents. Breguet Sympathique No. 1 by Francois-Paul Journe Initial Thoughts Three of the most historied names in the watch industry are celebrating anniversaries this year. Vacheron Constantin marked the occasion with Solaria, the most complicated wristwatch to date, while Audemars Piguet introduced an all-new Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar (and promises more to come in the fall). In comparison, Breguet has debuted the Classique Souscription and Tourbillon Sidéral so far, both of which are objectively good watches but feel underwhelming in technical terms. A new Sympathique, on the other hand, would be the ideal centrepiece for the brand’s anniversary collection, being visually impressive, an icon of the brand, and entirely unique ...
Monochrome
France’s golden age of horology during the 17th and 18th centuries produced notable figures like Julien Le Roy, Ferdinand Berthoud and Abraham-Louis Breguet. And it’s fair to say that had it not been for the expulsion of French Protestants following the revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685 by King Louis XIV, Swiss watchmaking […]
Monochrome
A 250th anniversary is already a remarkable achievement for a watch brand, but a 250th anniversary celebrating the undisputed horological star of the 18th century, Abraham-Louis Breguet, is quite another. Pulling out all the stops to commemorate this illustrious milestone, Breguet has released a series of anniversary editions, including the magnificent Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 […]
Monochrome
Cartier has consistently excelled in creating unconventional-shaped watch cases, beginning with the Santos Dumont and followed by the iconic Tank. Louis Cartier’s unusual source of inspiration for the cult 1917 Tank watch was a WWI armoured vehicle. Admiring the geometry of the Renault tank from above, Cartier adapted the lines of the armoured vehicle to […]
Worn & Wound
Sir David Lionel Salomons (1851–1925), the nephew of the original Sir David Salomons (1797–1873), was a renowned collector of Breguet watches and a significant figure in the world of horology. His passion for precision engineering, combined with his wealth and scholarly interest, made him one of the most prominent collectors of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s masterpieces. The Salomons were a highly respected family in 18th century London society. The family had arrived and settled in Bury St in the City of London from the Netherlands in the early 18th century, attracted by the financial opportunities in the developing British economy. They chose this part of the city because it was both a centre of the finance industry and had an established Jewish community. David Lionel’s Uncle was elected as the Lord Mayor of London in 1855 (below). He was the first Jewish Lord Mayor of London, and known for fighting the Jewish cause in Parliament, but he was also a pioneer of joint stock banking and held prominent positions in other fields. Sir David Salomons (1797–1873), Lord Mayor of London (1855). Solomon Alexander Hart (1806–1881). Guildhall Art Gallery. Image courtesy of City of London Corporation Early Life David Lionel Salomons, was born in Brighton. He was educated for a short period at University College, London, and afterwards at Caius College, Cambridge, where he graduated with natural science honours in 1874. He was a member of the Institution of Electrical Engi...
Hodinkee
Exactly 224 years to the day after Abraham-Louis Breguet patented the tourbillon, Breguet reveals a host of firsts.
SJX Watches
Breguet celebrates a milestone by looking to the stars with the Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255, which is the brand’s first flying tourbillon and also dressed up with an aventurine enamel dial. The Tourbillon Sidéral is the brand’s latest anniversary edition – and the most complicated so far – coming after the Classique Souscription and more recent Type XX 2075BH. Initial Thoughts Abraham-Louis Breguet’s workshop only built between 40 to 49 tourbillons in his lifetime, explaining the mythical rarity of the mechanism in historical watchmaking. Now more tourbillons are built in a single day – possibly even by a single brand – than during Breguet’s entire lifetime. Consequently, the tourbillon is no longer regarded with the reverence it enjoyed for centuries. Tourbillons aren’t inherently special today, but still have appeal when executed well; the whole of the parts can be more than the sum of the parts. The Tourbillon Sidéral is executed well and appealing. Flying tourbillon aside, the rest of the watch is very good, though not ground breaking. As with Breguet’s other 250th anniversary models, the Tourbillon Sidéral is more interesting aesthetically than technically since the movement is derived from the longstanding Lemania calibre. That approach will change as the year’s end approaches as Breguet has something bigger in the pipeline. For now, the Tourbillon Sidéral is an excellent watch that may suffer under the weight of expectations, but per...
Fratello
Breguet didn’t choose any random date for the release of the new Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255. June 26th marks the 224th anniversary of the tourbillon, one of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s most notable inventions. Actually, June 26th, 1801, was when Breguet’s invention was patented. Inventor of the tourbillon Interestingly, in those first years around the patent, Breguet […] Visit Introducing: The Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 to read the full article.
Monochrome
As we’ve explained already, Breguet, one of the most important brands in the industry, is celebrating this year its 250th anniversary, as its founder, the legendary Abraham-Louis Breguet, first registered his company in 1775. With this in mind, we can tell you that Breguet has already released several special edition watches, all done in its […]
Monochrome
Looking back at the history of watchmaking, there are some inevitable names to be mentioned: Abraham-Louis Breguet, John Harrison, Thomas Mudge, John Arnold, Antide Janvier, Jean-Marc Vacheron and Christiaan Huygens, just to name a few. Moving up North, in the city of Copenhagen, to be precise, we have to talk about one of the most […]
Monochrome
In haute horlogerie, few relationships have shaped timekeeping history quite like that of John Arnold and Abraham-Louis Breguet. Bound by shared respect and a deep commitment to mechanical innovation, their friendship helped lay the groundwork for modern precision watchmaking. Arnold & Son’s latest release, the Constant Force Tourbillon 11, is a tribute to that legacy […]
SJX Watches
Rare Watches in Geneva kicks off the spring auction season for Christie’s. Some of the highlights amongst the sale’s 183 lots illustrates the history and evolution of horology, most notably with timepieces by Abraham-Louis Breguet and Francois-Paul Journe. The notable F.P. Journe offerings include a Resonance pre-souscription and a Ruthenium full house, complete with numbered box. The standouts from Breguet include a pocket watch first owned by Pauline Bonaparte, Napoleon’s younger sister, an early striking carriage clock, and an intriguing Type XX precursor literally gone askew. F.P Journe Principally inspired by the work of A.-L. Breguet and Antide Janvier, Francois-Paul Journe’s landmark Chronomètre à Résonance was the first attempt at synchronised, coupled oscillators in a wristwatch. The first numbered 20 examples were reserved for a Breguet-style souscription series – paid in advance by the client – but were not the first made. Image – Christie’s A handful of pre-production watches were made for Basel 1999, followed by the pre-souscription series to which this watch belongs. About 20 watches starting from “21” onwards are pre-souscription, and this is “041/00R”. Notably, one example prior, “040/00R”, sold for a little under CHF1.4 million including fees at Christie’s in 2023, setting a record. Image – Christie’s The Ruthenium collection, built in 99 examples each across five models from 2001 to 2005, includes the Octa Calendrie...
Hodinkee
Single-handed and enamel-dialed, the Souscription 2025 pays respectful homage to Abraham-Louis Breguet's most accessible masterpiece.
Worn & Wound
If you’re into watches, then you’re into Abraham-Louis Breguet. One of the founders of modern horology, his innovations set the course of the industry and remain relevant. Whether that’s in terms of his inventions like the tourbillon, the gong-spring, his signature overcoil, self-winding, or shock protection, to name but a few, or in marketing and selling his timepieces, his contributions set many standards. Of these listed, however, marketing and selling seem the least interesting, and yet, Breguet’s “Souscription” model and the watches created as a result, have served as inspiration for several of the modern Breguet brand’s most iconic timepieces. In 2005, the brand launched the Tradition line, bringing escapements to the dial of a wristwatch, and now, the Classique Souscription 2025, celebrating the company’s 250th anniversary. The Souscription concept is one we are all very familiar with, if a slightly different take that suited the times. Upon ordering one of Breguet’s Souscription pieces, a quarter of the total price was paid to cover the parts. A deposit, if you will. The watch was made, and the remaining three-quarters were sent to acquire it. Sounds familiar, though typically we don’t fund the making of individual watches (though sometimes we do). A highly successful campaign that was advertised via a pamphlet, another innovation, it is said that around 700 watches were produced using this model. The concept wasn’t just a method of payment, b...
Hodinkee
In partnership with Cartier, we meet a world-traveling writer and photographer, and his Tank Louis Cartier.
SJX Watches
Right on time for Breguet’s 250th anniversary this year, Phillips just revealed it will soon be selling Breguet Sympathique no. 1, the unique, entirely gold clock created as a tribute to the 19th century originals made by Abraham-Louis Breguet. This is the first time the clock is emerging in public after it was first sold in 1991. Actually a clock with an accompany wristwatch (that can be transformed into a pocket watch), the Sympathique is masterful, modern-day creation that reproduces the genius of A.-L. Breguet’s original concept of a master clock that winds and sets a removable watch over the course of the night, allowing the owner to retrieve the watch for use the next day. The first of a 20-piece series, clock no. 1 is most unique in both entirely solid gold – the master clock, wristwatch, pocket watch case, and bracelet are all in 18k yellow gold. Like the rest of the series it was constructed by Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA) in Sainte-Croix, a complications workshop that is today most famous for having had Francois-Paul Journe, Denis Flageollet, and Vianney Halter amongst its alumni. One of the artisans who worked on the Sympathique series was Dominique Mouret, a clockmaker who today still restores antique clocks in his workshop in Sainte-Croix. The clock comes straight from the collection of the original owner who paid CHF1.55 million at The Art of Breguet auction held by Antiquorum in 1991. It has an estimate in excess of CHF1.00 million, but I t...
Time+Tide
This elegant tourbillon piece celebrates the friendship between two legendary watchmakers: John Arnold and Abraham-Louis Breguet.The post The Arnold & Son Constant Force Tourbillon 11 is the result of a historic friendship appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Arnold & Son presents the limited edition Constant Force Tourbillon 11, a classical beauty inspired by the first tourbillon created by Abraham-Louis Breguet based on John Arnold’s marine chronometer movement no. 11. Reunited once again, the yellow gold watch, with a constant force mechanism on the dial and a tourbillon regulator on the caseback, is […]
Monochrome
Atelier Jalaper is a relatively new brand that specializes in car-themed watches. Founded in 2019 by automotive/watch enthusiasts Louis Jalaber and Simon Szleper, the brand has two prior collections based on the Aston Martin DB5 and Lamborghini Miura. A piece of each car is infused in every watch, so you’re wearing true automotive history. This […]
Monochrome
The revival of Ikepod has been met with a lot of enthusiasm, especially seeing the brand develop from ‘just’ another resuscitated name to a full-fledged return of the unmistakable and iconic Mark Newson design style across a range of collections. Ever since the takeover by longtime Ikepod-fan Christian-Louis Col, we’ve witnessed a return of the […]
Monochrome
The name Tank at Cartier means far more than just a watch… It’s an entire range of watches, all distinguished by some design elements first defined by the so-called Tank Normale of 1917. From there, the collection expanded to dozens of designs, such as the Tank Louis Cartier, the Cintrée, the Française and the Asymétrique, […]
Monochrome
Abraham-Louis Breguet was the leading watchmaker of his day and enjoyed the patronage of France’s royalty and aristocracy. Among the names on his VIP list was Caroline Murat, aka the Reine de Naples, Napoleon Bonaparte’s youngest sister, who was a keen collector of Breguet’s horological marvels. The Reine de Naples collection is a free interpretation […]
Teddy Baldassarre
For those in the know, Breguet is a name in the history of watchmaking that commands instant respect, and even reverence. The brand’s legendary founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet, is rightfully lauded as the inventor of the tourbillon, but his lifetime horological resumé goes far beyond even that: he made the first self-winding movement, the first watch that was wound by a crown rather than a key, the pare-chute shock protection system, and the gong system for repeater watches, among other innovations. His customers included historical figures like King Louis XVI of France, Queen Marie-Antoinette, and Napoleon Bonaparte. He even invented a style of hands that many other watchmakers other than Breguet still use today. The modern brand that bears his name is one of the undisputed, upper-echelon Swiss watch maisons, alongside names like Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet, and the jewel in the crown of the Swatch Group. All that said and acknowledged, a newcomer to Breguet, especially the prospective owner of his or her first Breguet watch, may find all of this background intimidating. And make no mistake, Breguet is unapologetic in both its embrace of historical renown and its timepieces’ exalted level of luxury. The brand’s modern-day stewards harbor no illusion that they offer anything that would be any aficionado’s “first watch.” The whole concept of “entry level” must be stretched a bit at this venerated tier of watchmaking: like Patek Philippe, A. Lan...
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