Hodinkee
Introducing: Zenith Defy Chronograph USM (Hands-On And Live Pics)
Zenith teams with celebrated Swiss furniture maker USM with a colorful El Primero in the original Defy case for the first time and custom USM watch storage.
Results for Swiss Lever Escapement
1,692 articles · 44 videos found · page 26 of 58
Hodinkee
Teddy Baldassarre
Mido Ocean Star: A Complete Guide To The Historic Dive Watch
Mido is not one of the more widely familiar watchmakers in North America - though its watches have enjoyed a longstanding popularity south of the border, in Latin America - despite the fact that the brand, now owned by Swatch Group, has been around for a long time. It was founded on November 11, 1918, the same date of the armistice that ended World War I, by watchmaker Georges G. Schaeren (below) in the Swiss town of Biel-Bienne. Its name comes from the Spanish phrase Yo Mido, meaning “I Measure,” which may or may not indicate that Schaeren had always intended his products to appeal to a large Spanish-speaking audience. What is indisputable is that the Mido brand contributed some significant innovations to watchmaking in the 20th Century, few of which are often acknowledged. The company came up with one of the first solutions to waterproofing watch cases in 1930, developing a sealing system (below) that installed a watertight gasket made of cork between the crown and the case; Mido later named this invention “Aquadura.” The Mido Multifort, still produced today, debuted in 1934 and became the first antimagnetic watch with automatic winding. In 1945, Mido unveiled the Multi-CenterChrono, the first chronograph watch with a central display for the elapsed time, and in 1954 developed the Powerwind automatic winding system that increased efficiency by reducing the number of parts in the mechanism. Of all these milestones, it was the Aquadura waterproofing technolog...
Worn & Wound
A History and Guide to Hamilton
American watchmaking was, at one point in time, the largest in the world. In an era before Swiss domination, watches from the United States were prized for their accuracy and sophistication. Names like Waltham, Elgin, and Gruen - once prolific - have all but disappeared through the rapidly changing social and economic structures of the twentieth century. Then there is Hamilton. American watchmaking was, at one point in time, the largest in the world. In an era before Swiss domination, watches from the United States were prized for their accuracy and sophistication. Names like Waltham, Elgin, and Gruen - once prolific - have all but disappeared through the rapidly changing social and economic structures of the twentieth century. Then there is Hamilton. The post A History and Guide to Hamilton appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Deployant
New: MB&F; LM101 EVO
Celebrating Maximilian Büsser & Friends (MB&F;)'s 20th Anniversary, the avangarde Swiss Haute Horlogerie Maison launches the iconic LM101 EVO.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Berneron Unveils Details Of Second Collection: The Quantième Annuel
White hot independent Swiss brand follows up design-driven Mirage with complicated annual calendar watch in platinum (and a touch of steel).
Monochrome
First Look - The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Mechanical Chronograph now in Blue
Before becoming a Swiss brand and part of Swatch Group, Hamilton was an American watchmaker known for its military collections for both domestic and allied forces. In the 1970s, Hamilton continued this tradition with a chronograph for the British RAF (Royal Air Force) known as the Fab Four watch with a distinctive asymmetrical case. The latest […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: J.N. Shapiro's First Complication, A Monopusher Chronograph
Made for the Boston-based independent collectors' group Escapement, the new watch sets the stage for future releases from Shapiro.
Fratello
Breitling Lands A Touchdown By Becoming The Official Timepiece Partner Of The NFL
If last year’s 32-strong collection of Chronomat B01 42s in NFL team colors was the rookie season, this year is the sophomore breakout for Breitling. The Swiss watchmaker has announced that it is becoming the popular sport league’s inaugural timepiece partner, along with the release of new watches to the NFL collection. What can we […] Visit Breitling Lands A Touchdown By Becoming The Official Timepiece Partner Of The NFL to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Review
As it stands, Tissot remains one of the most cost-effective and dynamic points of entry into the wild world of Swiss watches. Last week, we took a deep dive into the history of Tissot, charting its journey from its beginnings all the way back in 1853 to how the brand has adapted to the watchmaking landscape of today. We are gathered here today to plunge even more granularly into the contemporary Tissot catalog with, you guessed it, the Gentleman collection, which is among the brand’s top contenders for a one-and-done watch collection, if such a thing truly exists. Though we’ve already taken on the subject of the Tissot Gentleman in various roundups and a couple of our videos, we, surprisingly, haven’t dedicated a standalone review to the subject. So buckle up, because all that’s about to change moving forward. Tissot Gentleman History While I’ve already alluded to our more sweeping article on Tissot’s over-century-long legacy, it’s always necessary to chart some hot historical plot points first, so we can have a more holistic view of how the brand has arrived at the Gentleman as we know it today. The story begins in 1853 in Le Locle, Switzerland (one of the historical hearts of Swiss watchmaking), with father-son duo Charles-Félicien Tissot and Charles-Émile Tissot, who turned their home into a humble watch factory. At its start, the Tissot workshop began as a comptoir d’etablissage, combining the father’s skill as a gold case fitter with his son's ...
Worn & Wound
Maurice Lacroix Introduces the AIKONIC, a New Sporty Take on the Popular AIKON Models
Since its inception in 2016, the AIKON line has been Swiss watchmaker Maurice Lacroix’s bestselling collection. Nine years later, the brand is ready to kick it up a notch. The new aptly-named AIKONIC series packs updated mechanics and new materials into an upgraded case design with pops of color, promising innovation in the urban watch space while maintaining the original watch’s flavor. Does it land? Let’s take a look. The first new aspect of note for the AIKONIC collection is the 43mm case; while it retains the familiar six double-wide “arms” around the bezel, a tactile grip cover is added to the crown. Both the bezel and the crown cover are composed of matt ceramic, which promises scratch-free usage for years to come. And while the case remains steel, it features both brushed and polished surfaces for visual and tactile complexity. The carbon dial, too, is all-new on the AIKONIC. With carbon fiber strands running north to south in one direction as opposed to interwoven, each dial is slightly distinct from the next. Maurice Lacroix collaborated with a Swiss partner to create the dials, resulting in a construction that is fresh both structurally and aesthetically. The noth-south carbon pattern indeed gives each dial a vertical wave pattern, diversifying the design from both a textural and visual standpoint. Atop the dial sits silver text details, rhodium indices and second hand, and rhodium-facetted hour and minute hands. A sapphire crystal with anti-reflect...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Best Solar Watches
Solar watches are an eco-friendly alternative to traditional quartz watches with lithium battery-powered movements. Watches with solar-powered movements still maintain the accuracy and reliability of quartz technology, which makes them much more precise than any mechanical watch. Here's a brief history of solar technology in watchmaking and a selection of notable solar watches on sale now. Solar Watch Technology - A Brief History In the late 1960s, the Swiss watch industry was on the precipice of a technical revolution that would ultimately threaten the very existence of traditional mechanical watchmaking while simultaneously ushering in the dawn of mass-produced electronic watches. By the 1970s, quartz movements had won out over a handful of other early technological approaches to producing electronic watches (you can delve a bit more into that history here), giving rise to the era now known known within the industry as the Quartz Crisis. Experiments with using solar power to charge watches, however, go all the way back to the '60s, to the development of the first solar-powered movement by American engineer Roger Riehl. This technology was introduced to the market in 1972, with the first prototype called the “Synchronar” and the first production piece, the Synchronar 2100, released later that same year. Priced at nearly $500 (about $3,200 in today's money), the Synchronar 2100 was considered something of a luxury product and struggled to compete in...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Norqain Wild One “Stan the Man” Limited Edition
Even though a relatively young brand, Norqain has made a name for itself in the field of sports watches, as well as a strong commitment to Swiss production. Norqain’s CEO Ben Küffer has been able to count on some great friends since he started his brand in 2018, one of them being industry veteran Jean-Claude […]
Teddy Baldassarre
"Are Tissot Watches Good?"
Tissot is one of the world's largest Swiss watchmakers and can look back on a rich history upon which it is still building today. In the modern era, Tissot is widely known for its large and diverse portfolio of watches, which ranges from dressy to sporty to high-tech, for its high-profile sports timing presence, and for its incredible value for the money. But there is a lot more that you may not know about Tissot and its many contributions to watchmaking history. Here, we delve into the highlights and tackle the easily answerable question of "are Tissot watches good?". (And if you're interested in learning more about particular Tissot Watches that are available now, check out our companion article on the Best Tissot Watches for Men.) Tissot’s Watchmaking Milestones Began in 1853 Tissot is one of the oldest watch manufacturers in the world, tracing its history back to 1853. Its founders were the father-son watchmaking team of Charles-Félicien and Charles-Émile Tissot, who turned their home in the Swiss Jura town of Le Locle, where the company remains headquartered today, into a small factory. By 1858, the family firm had gained a major foothold in Tsarist Russia, which became the largest market for the savonette pocket watches that were its specialty at the time. (At one point, Charles-Émile’s son, Charles Tissot, the third generation of the Tissot family to join the business, moved to Moscow to open an office there.) Tissot is recognized as the producer of the first...
Hodinkee
One To Watch: Sohaib Maghnam, A 30-Year-Old Automotive Designer And CEO Of Two Watch Brands With Three 2025 GPHG Entries
Qatar-based Beda'a is one of the few non-Swiss brands with a GPHG Entry this year, and it has two, with Maghnam's eponymous brand rounding out the third.
Worn & Wound
Oris Unveils the New York Harbor Limited Edition II and Continues their Partnership with the Billion Oyster Project
Back in 2022, we brought you a story on the first watch Oris released to celebrate their partnership with the Billion Oyster Project. That particular Aquis was a real head turner, using mother of pearl in a unique fashion to create a dial meant to conjure the Hudson River. But the more interesting story then, as it is now as Oris releases the long awaited follow up piece, is the one about the Swiss brand’s interest in conservation, and the mission of the Billion Oyster Project. If you need a refresher, the Billion Oyster Project exists to restore New York Harbor’s oyster reefs, and to educate the public on the inherent benefits of this endeavor. A fully grown oyster is, somewhat amazingly, able to filter as much as 50 gallons of water per day. Reintroducing oysters (a billion of them!) into New York waterways has the potential to dramatically clean up those waters in a sustainable and natural way. The founders of the Billion Oyster Project, Murray Fisher and Pete Malinowski, say that they’ve already introduced 150 million oysters into the harbor. They started in 2014, so if you do the math, there’s still plenty of work to be done to get to that billion number, but it’s far from an impossible goal. One of the charms of the Billion Oyster Project is that it is by its very nature a group effort – the organization has a lot of help, and enlists public schools, volunteers, and occasionally a Swiss watch brand to lend a hand. Every time they get in the harbor and a...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Unexpected Azuki X H. Moser & Cie. Elements of Time Collection
Two worlds that couldn’t be more different, one born from blockchain and anime culture, the other rooted in centuries of Swiss horology, have collided to create something genuinely original. The Elements of Time series, a collaboration between Azuki and H. Moser & Cie., feels as if it shouldn’t work, but it does. Azuki, the web3-native […]
Monochrome
The Evergreens - The History of The IWC Aquatimer and Other Important IWC Dive Watches
Since its founding in 1868, IWC has built a reputation for producing instruments where precision engineering meets uncompromising functionality. This approach, a combination of Swiss watchmaking tradition with an emphasis on mechanical problem-solving, has consistently produced watches designed to serve a clear purpose. This philosophy is very much evident in IWC’s dive watches, also known […]
Time+Tide
The C1 Bel Canto versus the C12 Loco - which Christopher Ward are you?
The Anglo-Swiss brand's two high horology heavy hitters go head to head.The post The C1 Bel Canto versus the C12 Loco – which Christopher Ward are you? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Hands-on - An In-House Tourbillon… From India! Here’s the Titan Nebula Jalsa Tourbillon
For many, watchmaking is synonymous with Switzerland. While the Swiss industry remains influential, several other countries also play significant roles in the production of timepieces. Germany, Japan and China are obvious examples. But India, too, is increasingly important, both as a manufacturing hub and a growing market. At the heart of India’s watch industry is […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The Everest-Worn HP Hercules Hand-Wound Double Barrelled
HP Hercules watches, originally crafted in post-war Germany, made a comeback in 2022 under the leadership of Swiss watchmaker (of Dutch origins) Adriaan Trampe, formerly of EZA watches. The brand’s rebirth leans on nostalgia, but aims to recharge it with modern mountaineering efforts. I got a chance to go hands-on with the Hercules Hand-Wound Double […] Visit Hands-On With The Everest-Worn HP Hercules Hand-Wound Double Barrelled to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, and Gear: Rolex Goes Atomic, Brooklyn’s First Rooftop Soccer Pitch, James Bond’s New Writer, and a Rolling Duffel Turned Workstation
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Hublot X KidSuper Rooftop Football Pitch Luxury Swiss watchmaker, Hublot, renowned for creative and bold innovation and its deep ties to the world of sport, culture and art, is proud to announce its official partnership with the new rooftop football pitch at KidSuper World in Williamsburg. This collaboration brings together two creative powerhouses united by a shared devotion to football, avant-garde design, and artistic expression. Founded by artist, designer, and former professional soccer player, Colm Dillane, KidSuper is a globally recognized creative collective that is redefining American fashion. At the heart of KidSuper’s identity is a love for soccer – not just as a sport, but as a unifying language, lifestyle, and global connector. The new football pitch that now sits atop KidSuper World represents this ethos in its purest form: a creative space where sport, design, and storytelling converge. To kick off the grand opening, Hublot and KidSuper have revealed a custom referee board for the pitch designed by Colm Dillane. This exciting start to the partnership promises new dynamic creative projects and engaging on-field activations that will capture the spirit...
Monochrome
First Look - The Monochromatic Looks of the Pequignet Concorde 36mm Titanium
With an integrated manufacture in Morteau, a French town close to the Swiss border, Pequignet is proud to proclaim its status as “one of the only French manufactures of Haute Horlogerie” and can back up the statement with its four in-house calibres. One of the newest collections, the sporty cushion-shaped Concorde, was released just two […]
Monochrome
First Look - A Titanium Or Colouful Sapphire Case for the ArtyA Purity Curvy HMS Mirror
Yvan Arpa is not your conventional Swiss watchmaker. Eccentric and imaginative, he founded his brand, ArtyA, in 2010 with a portfolio of exotic models. Arpa’s taste has matured over the years, and his latest creative direction is characterised by openworked movements housed in diaphanous cases congregated in the Purity collection. A new model, the Purity […]
Monochrome
First Look - The Montblanc 1858 Unveiled Minerva Chronograph, A Warm New Face for Minerva’s Reversed Marvel
Minerva, founded as H. & C. Robert in 1858 in the Swiss Jura village of Villeret and renamed Minerva SA in 1929, remains one of the great guardians of traditional chronograph craftsmanship. Its first chronograph movement, the Calibre 19-9, debuted in 1908, and for over 165 years, its workshops have produced some of the finest […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The New A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date in Pink Gold
When A. Lange & Söhne first revealed the Zeitwerk in 2009, it marked a bold break from convention. A high-end Saxon watch that abandoned the familiar hands-on-dial format in favour of a purely mechanical digital time display, large jumping numerals for the hours and minutes, powered by an ingenious constant-force escapement. Since its introduction, the […]
Monochrome
First Look - The New Favre Leuba Chief Date Royal Purple, Heritage Reimagined in Bold Colour
Founded in 1737, Favre Leuba is one of the few names in Swiss watchmaking that carries such a rich vintage sport-chic DNA. The brand is renowned for its robust designs and innovative approach, from iconic dive watches to distinctive cushion-shaped urban timepieces, such as the Chief. Revived in recent years with thoughtful updates, the Chief […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Black Bay Chrono Review
The Tudor Black Bay Chrono hit the market, somewhat unexpectedly, in 2017, boldly elevating the already red-hot Black Bay collection into a new tier of horological prestige and marking the debut of a collaboration (again, rather unexpected) between Rolex-owned Tudor and its Swiss sport-watch competitor Breitling. Nearly a decade later, the model still represents the highest level of complication in Tudor’s 21st-Century lineup, and yet this Tudor chronograph also remains very manageable, as a subfamily, in terms of material, size, and colorway options - an area in which the larger Black Bay collection, some might argue, has gone a bit far in the opposite direction, now encompassing three distinctive iterations: original Black Bay, Black Bay 58, and Black Bay 54 (which we reviewed here), all touting different sizing and multiple colorways and materials. And this doesn’t even include the other “complicated” extension of the line, the Black Bay GMT, which recently debuted in the “58” sizing and which seems to unveil a new bicolor bezel or dial color every year since its 2018 debut. Originally called the Heritage Black Bay - as it was clearly an homage to vintage dive watches from Tudor’s watchmaking history, which began in 1946 - the OG Black Bay model traces its aesthetic roots to the Oyster Prince Submariner, released in 1954, one year after big brother Rolex rolled out its own much more famous Submariner watch. This original version, Ref. 7922, used the ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Top 10 Watch Brands In India
Before I get into the top 10 watch brands in India, it’s worth talking about the Indian watch market overall. This is because even in the face of some regional slowdown, India has become one of the fastest growing markets for Swiss watch exports with an astounding 25% increase in 2025, according to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry. Brands like Rado, Longines, and Montblanc are as popular as ever in India, but what about the state of watchmaking in India? Well, it’s a bit of a mixed bag, and there are a few things we need to understand before getting into the my selections for the top 10 watch brands in India. First, India is not yet at the level of having a watchmaking infrastructure like that of China. The basic history of Indian watchmaking begins with the nationalized HMT in the 1960s and '70s, but the quartz revolution had a big, negative impact on mechanical watchmaking in the country. I’d say 2015 marked a change in the landscape of Indian watches, when microbrands for enthusiasts began to pick up in popularity. Again, while the infrastructure to manufacture movement components and parts in India is still not there, the passion for history and design has propelled some brands as hometown enthusiast darlings. I spent quite a bit of time researching this topic, and I do want to shout out YouTubers WatchgyanHindi and Watch and More India who are making some compelling Hindi content for the South Asian watch enthusiast community. In this list of the ...
SJX Watches
Jaquet Droz Surprises with a Unique Dragon Tourbillon
Continuing with its focus on unique, custom-order watches, Jaquet Droz’s latest brings together art, film and watchmaking. Commissioned by an unnamed collector (who presumably loves J.R.R. Tolkien’s tales), the Tourbillon Dragon “John Howe” stands as a fine example of Swiss watchmaker’s ability to blend artistic crafts with technical watchmaking. It reprises an earlier commission that similarly united The Lord of the Rings and Jaquet Droz watchmaking. Initial thoughts Custom-made one-offs are not uncommon in the world of high horology, with collectors regularly commissioning unique timepieces from both independent and established makers. Most of George Daniels’ creations were commissions, as were the ultra-complicated pocket watches delivered by Vacheron Constantin to a certain Mr Berkley. Unlike other brands, however, Jaquet Droz is now largely specialised in custom or bespoke commissions. It also takes a different and unique approach by collaborating with both the client and an artist of the client’s choosing in making wearable pieces of art. Here the artist John Howe, the Canadian illustrator who was responsible for visualising Tolkien’s fantasy world for the novels and later became artistic director of The Lord of the Rings film series. The timepiece reproduces an artwork created by Mr Howe as a large scale painting that was then was adapted to wristwatch format. Beyond the impressive miniature painting and pedigree of the motif, the watch stands firm...
Monochrome
Industry News - Swatch Group Reports Sales Down 7% and Profit Decline for First Half of 2025
In a challenging environment for the watch industry, Swatch Group, the Swiss powerhouse owner of brands such as Omega, Longines, Tissot and Breguet, reported sales of CHF 3,059 million for the first half of 2025, representing a decline of 7.1% at constant exchange rates and 10.4% on a comparable basis. The operating profit dropped to […]