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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Most Complicated Wristwatch, Ever Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Apr 15, 2025

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Most Complicated Wristwatch, Ever

If you were to sit me down at a desk and ask me to write down 41 watch complications off the top of my head, I think the result would be rather like Ross Geller trying to name the 50 states in that one episode of Friends. There’s just no way I could do it. Forty-one is an absurd number of complications to even conceive of, let alone cram into one surprisingly wearable watch. And yet, that is what Vacheron Constantin’s one-of-a-kind watchmaking department, Les Cabinotiers, has managed to do. Just about a year after introducing the world’s most complicated watch of any kind - a pocket watch containing 63 complications - Vacheron has unveiled the Les Cabinotiers ‘Solaria Ultra Grand Complication.’ It’s hard to know where to start with a watch like this, especially since I haven’t had the opportunity to see it in person, so to begin, I’ll just say this: I am wildly impressed by this watch, and you should be too. It’s a serious step up from their previous most complicated wristwatch - the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600, which housed 23 complications. It’s worth saying here that, even before getting to the Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, Vacheron Constantin had a very good Watches & Wonders. The brand is celebrating its 270th anniversary this year and they’ve done a hell of a job with it. Their new 127-piece limited edition Traditionelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, with its novel movement and ann...

First Look – The New, More Compact Bell & Ross BR-05 36mm Monochrome
Bell & Ross BR-05 36mm Bell & Apr 15, 2025

First Look – The New, More Compact Bell & Ross BR-05 36mm

Bell & Ross has never strayed far from its winning formula of aeronautical instrument-inspired watches. Brandishing the tagline “from the cockpit to the wrist,” Bell & Ross’s watches are loyal to the “circle within a square design” inspired by dashboard flight instruments. However, the brand has understood that to reach more customers, it needs to […]

Notes From a Very Busy Day at Watches & Wonders Worn & Wound
Cartier Apr 15, 2025

Notes From a Very Busy Day at Watches & Wonders

Wednesday April 2, 2025 5:30 AM: 9Hotel Paquis  I’m awake for day two of Watches & Wonders an hour before my (first) alarm, which was probably an hour earlier than it needed to be anyway. Am I refreshed? I am not. My internal clock is still on east coast time, which means if I were back home I’d be settling in on the couch getting ready to stream some movie that I’ve seen a million times and am comfortable falling asleep to. Maybe Prometheus, a favorite among members of the watch media for reasons I can’t quite articulate.   8:30 AM: the shuttle to Palexpo We are at a new hotel this year deeper into the red light district which is the second or third stop on the shuttle line. By the time the shuttle gets to us, it’s quite crowded, standing room only. A shorter trip though, which is welcome.  I always find myself wondering who these people on the shuttle are. The answer, almost certainly, is that they are retailers. Retailers are everywhere – they outnumber media by a significant percentage. Watches & Wonders is an important business event for retailers, hence the suits. European retailers are almost always wearing Cartier. American retailers are almost always wearing those sneakers that look like dress shoes.  A note on shuttle etiquette: when you board a crowded shuttle, move as deep into the center as possible. Don’t stand by the door – it makes it more difficult for people to board at the next stop. 9:30 AM: Palexpo I’m at a table in a section of ...

Hands-On With The Flashy Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 40mm In Rose Tone And Blue Fratello
Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 40mm Apr 15, 2025

Hands-On With The Flashy Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 40mm In Rose Tone And Blue

Tissot relaunched the PRX five years ago. Time flies when you’re having fun, doesn’t it? The integrated-bracelet sports watch has become something of a fan favorite in the meantime. It graces the wrists of many newcomers to the watch hobby and veterans alike. Tissot blessed us with tons of variants to choose from. Different sizes, […] Visit Hands-On With The Flashy Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 40mm In Rose Tone And Blue to read the full article.

Introducing – The Easter-Ready H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Sunny-Side Up Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Apr 15, 2025

Introducing – The Easter-Ready H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Sunny-Side Up

Cosmic Green, Funky Blue, Swiss Mad Red, Citrus Green… Indie brand H. Moser & Cie. is no stranger to bold, expressive colour. These vibrant hues have graced the dials of the Pioneer Centre Seconds series alongside Arctic Blue and Blue Lagoon. Now, Moser adds an Easter-related hue, or rather sun-related, for the new dial colour […]

Exploring Evergreens: The Cartier Santos Galbée XL Fratello
Cartier Santos Galbée XL Welcome Apr 15, 2025

Exploring Evergreens: The Cartier Santos Galbée XL

Welcome to another installment of Exploring Evergreens, a series here on Fratello in which we get our hands on watches that have been around for over a decade - or long enough to feel ubiquitous - and ask ourselves if they’ve managed to stand the test of time. We’ll address whether they’re still relevant, how […] Visit Exploring Evergreens: The Cartier Santos Galbée XL to read the full article.

Kallinich Claeys Brings Creative Independent Watchmaking to Glashütte Worn & Wound
Nomos headquarters Apr 14, 2025

Kallinich Claeys Brings Creative Independent Watchmaking to Glashütte

In the Fall of 2023, I organized a RedBar event in Prague for Marco Lang, Stefan Kudoke, and Jochen Benzinger. During the event I met two young guys who looked in their early twenties, enjoying fresh Pilsner beer. When we raised our glasses to cheer, I noticed his wrist and had a hard time believing what I saw.  The young man introduced himself as Thibault Claeys and said this is their first watch. The other young man introduced himself as Johannes Kallinich. While I looked at the watch, Thibault told me that both of them worked at A. Lange & Söhne until recently. Johannes was the head of the Lange 1 department and a certified Master Watchmaker with a deep understanding of technical construction. Thibault, on the other hand, graduated from watchmaking school in Antwerp, and joined the Lange 1815 department. His expertise lies in finishing techniques, and he plays MacGyver with all the machines and tooling.  The next encounter with Thibault and Johannes was a planned visit to their atelier in the summer of 2024. Their small workshop is located right next to Nomos headquarters, and directly opposite from the SUG case workshop in Glashütte. The workshop is framed all around by large windows, an inspiration they took from Akrivia and Rexhep Rexhepi.  Thibault walked me through “his side” of the workshop first where he built his own CNC milling machine. You see all the contraptions he built himself for making parts or for finishing of the parts. He says it actually all...

Editors' Picks: Our Top All-New Watches Of 2025 Teddy Baldassarre
Apr 14, 2025

Editors' Picks: Our Top All-New Watches Of 2025

Today we keep our post-Watches & Wonders 2025 recaps going with our takes on the best all-new watches of the show. We know there are a lot of line and color extensions released every year but what stood out to us from all the truly new watches? Well, to nobody’s surprise, there is now a watch release that has appeared on all three of three Editors’ Picks we have published so far. Also some smaller brands had big releases we loved this year, so let’s get into them. Mark Bernardo: Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR] As always when a gaggle of nerdy watch writers share opinions and ideas, there was a bit of discussion prior to this article as to what constitutes a “new” watch. Does a new case size count, or a new movement or complication in an existing model, or a model from the past that has been radically redesigned but carries the same name? Hopefully I have deftly evaded these eternal (but fascinating) debates by submitting the “newest” and most groundbreaking timepiece I encountered this year. It has to be “new” if it sets a new world record, right? In the case of the Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR], the milestone in question is debuting as the lightest mechanical dive watch ever made - just 52 grams in total, including the strap.The watch is an evolution of 2021’s Diver X Skeleton, which itself emerged from the mainstream (non-skeleton) Diver series, but takes that model’s extreme openworked structure to another level; according to the brand, the inside of the 4...

Bravur Introduces the Latest in their Team Heritage Series of Cycling Inspired Watches Worn & Wound
Bravur Apr 14, 2025

Bravur Introduces the Latest in their Team Heritage Series of Cycling Inspired Watches

I really don’t know anything about cycling. Beyond a childhood penchant for Livestrong bracelets and about 20 minutes a year spent watching either the Tour de France or the Olympics, the world of competitive cycling is a mystery to me. I don’t even own a bicycle right now. So on some level, the watches produced by Bravur, the Swedish watch brand whose watches often celebrate the fastest sport on two wheels without an engine, shouldn’t really be my thing. And yet, each and every time I encounter the brand, I come away impressed and intrigued. That was definitely my response when I first saw the brand’s Team Heritage watch last year, and it remains my response in seeing their latest addition to that collection: The Team Heritage STR, inspired by the livery of the St. Raphaël team. I’ll have to take Bravur’s word for the long-dormant St. Raphaël team’s “legendary” status, one thing is absolutely for sure, their colors make for a hell of an addition to the Bravur lineup. The Team Heritage model was first released last year and stood out to me not only for its unique colorways inspired by the liveries of some of cycling’s most significant and historic teams but also for the model’s unique architecture, interesting dial executions, and downright fantastic feel on the wrist. Each of the model’s distinct looks stood out to such an extent that it’d have been hard for me to pick a favorite. Not so much anymore.  This red, white, and blue bullseye pattern...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Apr 14, 2025

Windup Watch Shop Spring Lookbook 2025

Spring in the City. Bursting through the gloomy greys and harsh weather of the winter, we finally get greens and all the pastel colors that announce warmth is just around the corner. That feeling, that vibe, doesn’t only extend to our clothing but also touches the accessories, home decor and everyday carry that play a supporting role in our lives. Find the perfect pieces to match this seasonal transition below. The post Windup Watch Shop Spring Lookbook 2025 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Hands-On With The With The Rolex Oyster Perpetual In Two Of Three Soft New Shades Fratello
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Apr 14, 2025

Hands-On With The With The Rolex Oyster Perpetual In Two Of Three Soft New Shades

Of course, I was impressed by the new Land-Dweller, but I wasn’t charmed by it. To be honest, it’s been a while since The Crown launched a watch that charmed me. Yes, every watch is of superb build quality and a benchmark, but just like a Mercedes S-class, a modern Rolex is not exactly lovable. […] Visit Hands-On With The With The Rolex Oyster Perpetual In Two Of Three Soft New Shades to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574 Monochrome
Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Apr 14, 2025

Introducing – The New Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574

Panerai is the official timekeeper of the Salone del Mobile, the largest and most prestigious annual international design fair held in Milan since 1961. Panerai’s involvement with Milan Design Week is celebrated with the release of the new Lumimor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574. As a product launched in 1949 that retains many original design […]

Hands On: Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Take Apr 14, 2025

Hands On: Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA

Take a moment to think about the characteristics that would make the perfect everyday watch; what would you come up with? The list would probably include things like maximum precision, minimum weight, an agreeable size with good ergonomics, and a design that is at home in both formal and casual environments. It also wouldn’t cost a fortune. That might as well have been the design brief for the new Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive Ultra Fine Accuracy (UFA) SLGB001 and SLGB003, which ticks about as many boxes as any single watch can. In fact, just about the worst thing you can say about the UFA is that the design isn’t taking any risks, but that’s the cost of chameleon-like versatility. While the watch is also available in an 80-piece limited edition in platinum (the SLGB001, pictured above), the primary focus of this review will be the more crowd-pleasing titanium version with matching bracelet (the SLGB003), which is a regular production model and priced right. The SLGB003 Initial thoughts Putting it bluntly, the UFA is an absolute spec-sheet monster. If you’re onboard with the idea of a quartz oscillator in an otherwise mechanical watch, there’s very little to nitpick. It’s simply one of the most accurate, wearable, and well-made watches on the market.  In true Grand Seiko style, the UFA is fitted with a nature-inspired dial motif that is modeled on a hillside of frost-covered trees. It’s a fairly abstract representation, which means it will look like d...