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Oyster Case

Rolex's 1926 waterproof case patent, the template for every water-resistant wristwatch.
Hands On: MB&F; LM1 EVO SJX Watches
MB&F; 6 days ago

Hands On: MB&F; LM1 EVO

The MB&F; LM1 EVO brings back the original Legacy Machine (LM) in a smaller, sportier case, with improved shock protection, water resistance and a revised movement. Fifteen years after the LM1 established the LM collection, the EVO preserves its distinctive dual-time layout and suspended balance while making it more suited to the demands of daily wear. Initial thoughts I still remember seeing the LM1 for the first time when it launched in 2011. Up to that point, MB&F; had spent six years developing its identity around the futuristic Horological Machine (HM) collection, and the brand’s original take on traditional watchmaking came as a surprise. The LM1 established what is now the Legacy Machine collection, which began as a thought experiment about what kind of watch founder Max Büsser might have designed had he been born a century earlier. The original LM becomes the fifth MB&F; platform to get the EVO treatment, after the LM Split Escapement, LM 101, LM Perpetual, and LM Sequential (in both regular and flyback configurations). It follows the same script as its predecessors, with a polished titanium (or 18k rose gold) case, proprietary rubber strap, and the brand’s patented FlexRing shock absorber, which helps take the edge off severe impacts. The EVO case is also water resistant to 80 m thanks in part to twin screw-down crowns. Of course, it’s a manually wound movement, which means the threads will se a lot of action assuming the watch is worn regularly. Fortunately, ...

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Introducing: The Original MB&F; Legacy Machine 1 Gets The EVO Treatment Hodinkee
MB&F; 6 days ago

Introducing: The Original MB&F; Legacy Machine 1 Gets The EVO Treatment

What We Know We are six years into the reign of the Legacy Machine EVO, a sportier version of MB&F;'s most "traditional" (and I use that term loosely) watch designs, which had the added benefit of higher water resistance, a built-in FlexRing shock protection system, slightly less delicate dials, and a different case design that lends itself to the rubber straps. We've had the Perpetual EVO, Sequential EVO, Sequential Flyback EVO, Split Escapement EVO, and LM101 EVO. Now, the original Legacy Machine, the LM No. 1, joins the collection with two case materials: titanium and a limited-edition rose gold. It seems like case sizes are the most hotly debated topic these days, and MB&F; has never shied away from a large case. It's needed to accomplish the dramatic design and depth of the floating balance that hovers over the dual time display (now in sunburst-polished black, flat subdials). The cases are 42mm by 16.8mm, with a 52mm lug-to-lug and 18mm lug width. This brings one major update to the EVO series: these watches now have quick-change rubber straps, made possible by a case redesign (so this won't apply to swapping into other EVO series models). Another update: the original's vertically moving power reserve indicator is now more traditional, rotating side to side and pointing at an inclined scale. One of my favorite things about the Legacy Machine is that it's so wild in the front and more traditional in the back. The movement is still the Jean-François Mogard-designed cali...

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Introducing: Garmin Marq 3 (Live Photos) Hodinkee
6 days ago

Introducing: Garmin Marq 3 (Live Photos)

What We Know When Garmin launched the Marq collection in 2019, it answered what Garmin customers had been asking for: a premium product with top-end engineering. With today's launch of the third generation, Garmin is pushing that idea further. The collection debuts six new watches—the Marq Adventurer, Athlete, Aviator, Commander, Diver, and Golfer—offering something for everyone. The Marq 3 Diver. Before we get into the six variations, we need to start with the 47mm case, because much of what's new comes from how it's built. Garmin uses a process it calls nano molding technology, which bonds a glass-filled polymer to the titanium at the nanoscale. The polymer sections at the top and bottom of the case give the antennas a non-metal window for transmission, and because the bond needs no gasket, it produces a thinner case. Garmin says that is what made room for the LTE and satellite radios on top of GPS, Bluetooth, and Wi-Fi. On the left, the Marq 3 Adventurer, on the right is the Marq 3 Golf. It also removes the five button holes in the Gen 2 case. A polymer wall seals the case, and an inductive sensor behind it registers each press, with a tactile element on the outside for the click. Garmin's point is that the crown and pushers are the usual failure point on a dive watch, and here nothing passes through the case. The process also forced a change to the Commander's DLC coating, which is normally applied at a heat that would deform the polymer, so Garmin moved to a lower...

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SJX Podcast: Time for Quartz? SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s new Gondolo “Ladies Oct 13, 2026

SJX Podcast: Time for Quartz?

A Cartier Cheich selling for US$3.38 million has put quartz in the spotlight, but does the huge result mean much for the broader market? On the latest episode of the SJX Podcast, we discuss the appeal of unusual Cartier shapes and why Patek Philippe’s new Gondolo “Ladies First” makes a practical case for quartz at the high end. Brandon also shares impressions from a visit to Manufacture La Joux-Perret, where solar quartz calibres account for a quarter of annual movement production. Despite the Citizen-owned manufacture’s Japanese technical foundations, these calibres are almost entirely Swiss-made, with more hands-on assembly than one might expect. We also discuss A. Lange & Söhne’s upcoming Singapore exhibition, dedicated to chronographs and classic cars. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

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Not A Carbon Copy: Introducing The Apiar Carbon1.0 OG Sports Watch Fratello
Oct 11, 2026

Not A Carbon Copy: Introducing The Apiar Carbon1.0 OG Sports Watch

Apiar launches its first sports watch, the Carbon1.0 OG. Utilizing a novel construction process known as Composite-Based Additive Manufacturing (CBAM), the UK-based brand introduces a fresh approach to carbon-composite watchmaking. The watch features a 40.5mm carbon-fiber outer case surrounding a 38mm Grade 23 titanium core. This hybrid structure allows Apiar to pursue ambitious openworked forms […] Visit Not A Carbon Copy: Introducing The Apiar Carbon1.0 OG Sports Watch to read the full article.

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Introducing - Angelus Puts a Tachymeter on Its Vintage-Inspired Monopusher Chronograph Monochrome
Angelus Puts Oct 9, 2026

Introducing - Angelus Puts a Tachymeter on Its Vintage-Inspired Monopusher Chronograph

Angelus continues to revive its historical stopwatch designs with the new Chronographe Tachymètre, a trio of compact monopusher watches that follows last year’s Chronographe Télémètre. The new watches share the same case and hand-wound A5000 calibre as their predecessors, but replace the telemeter scale with a tachymeter designed to measure speed – more on the […]

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Introducing - The Fun New Mido Multifort TV Big Date Día de los Muertos Alebrijes Monochrome
Mido Multifort TV Big Date Oct 8, 2026

Introducing - The Fun New Mido Multifort TV Big Date Día de los Muertos Alebrijes

Since 2020, Mido has marked “Día de los Muertos” with special editions inspired by the Mexican tradition of remembering the dead through colour, symbolism, and celebration. For 2026, the brand launches the Multifort TV Big Date Día de los Muertos Alebrijes, bringing the collection’s most recognisable square-shaped case together with an important element of Mexican […]

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Hands On: Wren Vessel SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Oct 8, 2026

Hands On: Wren Vessel

New York-based Wren has introduced the Vessel, an integrated-bracelet sports watch with an unusually elaborate sapphire crystal. Designed by Max Resnick under founder Craig Karger’s direction, its futuristic case and crystal mark Wren’s first departure from the dive watch format and help establish a broader identity for the brand. Initial thoughts The name Wren is a portmanteau of Wrist Enthusiast, the online watch publication founded by Mr Karger. The brand’s first watch, the Diver One, was introduced in 2024, and Wren has stuck to dive watches ever since. The Vessel, however, is anything but a diver. By venturing far beyond its initial design language, Wren has carved out considerable space in which to develop its identity. In doing so, Wren has taken a page out of the Berneron playbook with a sophomore effort that is almost as different from its debut as it could be. Perhaps because the look is so different, the Vessel features an aqua blue seconds hand and winding rotor to match the dial colour of the original Diver One. The Vessel’s design was penned by British designer Max Resnick under Mr Karger’s creative direction. Originally trained in automotive design, Mr Resnick has worked with several other small brands, including Anoma and VPC. The vision called for an integrated-bracelet sports watch that avoided channelling the same handful of historical designs from the 1970s. The resulting look has more in common with Alto than Audemars Piguet. The angular desi...

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Hands On: Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Blue SJX Watches
Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Oct 8, 2026

Hands On: Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Blue

The Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Blue adds a dark blue ceramic case to the brand’s 500 m dive watch collection. It’s a more casual take on the Supermarine, with a restrained colour and carefully finished case that give the Sellita-powered diver a more stylish, less tactical character. Initial thoughts Sometimes it’s surprising how much difference a colour can make. In the case of the Bremont Supermarine, the navy blue hue of the ceramic case and bezel results in a look that is quite different from that of its black ceramic stablemates. The deep blue colour is very subtle, and to my eye looks less plasticky than some brighter blue ceramic competitors. The prominent texture of the brushing on the case gives it vaguely a metallic appearance, and it at a glance it could almost pass for PVD-coated steel. While ceramic is not a perfect material and can crack under extreme torsion or if dropped onto a sufficiently hard surface, the real-world benefits outweigh these edge cases. The natural scratch-resistance of ceramic pays dividends when changing straps, for example, as the spring bars cannot scratch the inside of the lugs when finding their seat. There’s also an ancillary benefit to ceramic, which is that service watchmakers will not be tempted to try to polish it. The Supermarine’s strengths lie in its finely executed dial and relatively slim case. The wave-inspired dial pattern is dramatic without being overpowering, while the 13 mm thickness and flat case ...

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Hands On: Jacob & Co. Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Repeater SJX Watches
Jacob & Co. Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Oct 7, 2026

Hands On: Jacob & Co. Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Repeater

The Jacob & Co. Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Repeater returns with a transparent red mineral crystal dial and an updated movement, 12 years after the original introduced chiming complications to the brand. Combining a wearable case with a clear view of the striking racks, it makes a convincing addition to the more mechanically focused side of the collection. Initial thoughts After 12 years of minute repeaters and musical wristwatches, it’s easy to take Jacob & Co.’s presence in the category for granted. Working closely with external specialists, the brand has developed an impressive portfolio of striking watches in a remarkably short time. That repertoire encompasses the decimal repeater of the Twin Turbo Furious, the three-gong carillon of the Astronomia Maestro, and the combination of a music box and minute repeater in the Opera Godfather. These different approaches to sound illustrate the breadth of the brand’s ambitions and its relationships with specialist movement makers. We recently sat down with Jacob & Co. chief executive Benjamin Arabov to discuss how smaller watches like the Palatial have helped broaden the brand’s clientele. Mr Arabov admitted that he is affectionately known by some of his staff as the “size dictator”, due to his insistence on reducing dimensions while retaining the mechanical creativity. While the brand still makes a number of extremely large watches, the increase in smaller, more wearable options has attracted a new clientele...

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First Look - The New Depancel Serie-R Chronograph Skeleton Monochrome
Oct 6, 2026

First Look - The New Depancel Serie-R Chronograph Skeleton

The Depancel Serie-R is one of the brand’s most recognisable watches, with its rectangular case and automotive-inspired details and, more recently, an automatic chronograph movement. The new Serie-R Chronograph Skeleton keeps the existing construction but opens it up, making the mechanical movement the centre of the design. The earlier Serie-R Chronograph Tangerine, introduced in 2024, […]

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Beware Of The Shapeshifter: Introducing The 13th Roger Dubuis Excalibur Knights Of The Round Table Fratello
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Knights Oct 5, 2026

Beware Of The Shapeshifter: Introducing The 13th Roger Dubuis Excalibur Knights Of The Round Table

Welcome to a realm where time is told by 12 knights. Introducing the 13th Roger Dubuis Excalibur Knights Of The Round Table, a watch in forest green and, for the first time in the long-running series, a pink gold case adorned with handmade engravings called The Metamorph Merlin. The final watch in the Tale of […] Visit Beware Of The Shapeshifter: Introducing The 13th Roger Dubuis Excalibur Knights Of The Round Table to read the full article.

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Review: Does The Cartier Roadster Deserve A Victory Lap? WatchAdvice
Cartier Roadster Deserve Oct 4, 2026

Review: Does The Cartier Roadster Deserve A Victory Lap?

Cartier’s Y2K darling has returned to the fold, but has it done enough to pick up from where it left off? Let’s find out! What We Love: Unique, shapely case Seamless wearability Fun, quirky aesthetic What We Don’t: Lack of lume for a sports watch Slippery, hard-to-operate crown Did the Roadster deserve a comeback? Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8/10 Of all the watch brands that have broken through into popular culture, Cartier stands as one of the most significant. Ever the champions and pioneers of quiet luxury, the French jeweller-watchmakers have built up a remarkable reputation over the course of 179 years. As part of that esteemed legacy are some of the most iconic silhouettes in watchmaking. Truly, models like the Tank, Santos, and Panthère are easily recognisable from their shadows alone! But while these collections possess obvious cultural cachet, perhaps equally as interesting are the designs that are no longer with us. The archival graveyard of Cartier is surprisingly rich, decorated with references as beautiful as they are unconventional. Model lines like the Pasha, the Calibre, and the criminally underrated Drive still maintain cult followings, with dedicated fans praying for their beloved collections’ return even years after their discontinuation. This year did see one such design finally escape the Shadow Realm. Of course, I am talking about the remastered Cartier Roadster, which held a ...

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Introducing - Raymond Weil Marks 50 Years Again, with a More Accessible Millesime Jubilee Chronograph Automatic Monochrome
Raymond Weil Marks 50 Years Again Oct 3, 2026

Introducing - Raymond Weil Marks 50 Years Again, with a More Accessible Millesime Jubilee Chronograph Automatic

Born in 1976, Raymond Weil has been celebrating its 50th anniversary throughout 2026. Following the launch of The Fifty at Watches & Wonders, the Geneva-based, independent, family-owned brand continues the story with the Jubilee Chronograph. The Fifty was a 50-piece limited edition chronograph, powered by restored 1976 Valjoux movements, and housed in a 37mm case […]

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Introducing - Lorige BL-Evolution “Competition”, Built from Le Mans Victory Monochrome
Oct 1, 2026

Introducing - Lorige BL-Evolution “Competition”, Built from Le Mans Victory

There is a particular appeal in owning a physical fragment of something meaningful, be it from popular culture, a piece of the Jacaranda stage where The Beatles first performed, or, in Lorige’s case, motorsport: the brake material used by a winning endurance-racing car, which was later turned into material for its BL-Endurance collection. Following the recent […]

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Ladies First: Patek Philippe Debuts Gondolo 7043 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Debuts Gondolo 7043 Patek Oct 1, 2026

Ladies First: Patek Philippe Debuts Gondolo 7043

Patek Philippe expands its feminine offerings with the Gondolo Ladies First ref. 7043 in white and rose gold with the option of diamonds, or even more diamonds. Housed in the Gondolo case with ergonomic articulating lugs and powered by a simple, well-decorated movement, Patek Philippe pitches the inaugural quartz Ladies First model as an easy-to-wear, design-led watch for a discerning (and well-heeled) clientele. Initial thoughts The Gondolo Ladies First launches alongside a new marketing campaign, helmed by London ad agency Leagas Delaney, responsible for the well known generations campaign and the famous slogan, “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation”. Until now, “Ladies First” meant complicated watches, including the 2009 debut of Patek Philippe’s excellent hand-wound chronograph calibre, as well as a perpetual calendar and a minute repeater. In this context, a two-hand quartz watch is another first. The selection available at launch is arguably more characterful than the quartz-powered Twenty-4 models, and strengthen Patek Philippe’s catalogue in a segment that the industry has long overlooked. The indices on both the regular and jewellery models deserve special mention — the use of trapeze-cut stones, rather than more common rectangular baguettes, was, to my eye, a make-or-break decision for these dials, and Patek Philippe made the right choice. But, as usual for the brand, the value proposition may be ...

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Introducing: Patek Philippe Revisits The Ladies First With The New Gondolo (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Revisits Oct 1, 2026

Introducing: Patek Philippe Revisits The Ladies First With The New Gondolo (Live Pics)

What We Know: Milan is one of the world's great fashion capitals. At the Watch Art Grand Exhibition Milano, Patek Philippe fittingly unveiled the Gondolo Ladies First, a collection that revisits a significant modern women's watch for the brand while taking a decidedly different approach to its execution. The new collection comprises six versions of the Ref. 7043, all sharing the same 31 x 34.8mm cushion-shaped case. Three feature diamond-set dials, while three Joaillerie versions take gem-setting considerably further, with the dial, case, and lugs covered in diamonds. The watches are available in rose gold, white gold, or a combination of both, with colorful straps and gemstone hour markers, offering the most obvious departure from the more restrained watches that inspired them. That inspiration is the 2009 Ladies First Chronograph Ref. 7071, a watch that marked an important moment in Patek Philippe's history with women's watches. Patek Philippe had, of course, been making women's watches for well over a century. In fact, its first wristwatch—created in 1868 for Countess Koscowicz of Hungary—was a ladies' watch. But the 2009 Ladies First watch achieved something else. It brought Patek Philippe's new in-house CH 29-535 PS chronograph movement to a watch designed specifically for a woman's wrist. At the time, the watch made something of a statement. Patek Philippe was putting serious mechanical watchmaking at the center of a watch created intentionally for women, rather ...

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A Dream Comes To Fruition: The G-Shock MRG-D5000 In Blue Sapphire Fratello
Casio Oct 1, 2026

A Dream Comes To Fruition: The G-Shock MRG-D5000 In Blue Sapphire

Casio is expanding its MR-G collection with the MRG-D5000, a limited-edition G-Shock featuring a bezel and outer case made of blue sapphire crystal. Its screwless, multi-component construction aims to make the material compatible with the G-Shock ethos of durability and shock resistance. Casio will release just 20 pieces worldwide under the Blue Rose Project. The […] Visit A Dream Comes To Fruition: The G-Shock MRG-D5000 In Blue Sapphire to read the full article.

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The Business of Watches Podcast: Formex CEO And Head Of Product Development At Dexel Raphael Granito Hodinkee
Formex CEO Sep 30, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Formex CEO And Head Of Product Development At Dexel Raphael Granito

Formex holds a unique place in the Swiss watch industry. Born in the early 2000s, it featured a proprietary case suspension system and designs that reflected the origin of its name, 'forme extrême' (extreme shapes in French). However, the recession spurred by the Global Financial Crisis of 2008 dealt the brand a near-fatal blow, and it entered a period of relative dormancy. Then, in 2016, a group backed by one of its suppliers, Dexel, a Swiss component maker specializing in bracelets, clasps, and cases, as well as dials through its subsidiary Cadranor, took over Formex.  Raphael Granito, now in his mid-thirties, is part of the family business behind Dexel and led the takeover and revival of the Formex marque. He has steered the brand's development ever since, and a decade later, Formex is leveraging Dexel's manufacturing savoir-faire and R&D; to produce innovative, approachable-priced Swiss-made watches. The brand's evolution culminated recently with the Aria, a high-end integrated-bracelet titanium sport watch with an ultra-thin, micro-rotor manufacture movement designed by Horage, priced below CHF 6,000. That's a significant step up compared to the CHF 1,800 average price point for its watches.  Granito outlines how the brand has grown and connected with more customers, operating mainly outside the traditional retail structure. Still a family business, he hired his best friend from university to lead marketing and sales efforts. Formex has distinguished itself by offe...

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