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Results for Plan-les-Ouates

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Plan-les-Ouates

Geneva industrial suburb; modern manufactures of Patek Philippe (1996), Vacheron Constantin (2005), Piaget (2001), Rolex case-making.

Hands-On: the Xeric Artemis Chronograph Worn & Wound
Omega Speedmaster John F Kennedy Sep 18, 2024

Hands-On: the Xeric Artemis Chronograph

Picture this: You’re playing Thursday night trivia and the DJ asks which watch was first worn on the moon. The softball question generates bar-wide high fives as everyone celebrates their collective awareness of Buzz Aldrin’s Speedmaster that forever married watches and space travel into pop culture lore. Less than a year after we took our first small steps on the moon, the Apollo 13 mission sought a return to our celestial stomping grounds. Once again, a watch stole our collective attention, this time as part of the ill fated Apollo 13 mission. The world heard the phrase “Houston, we’ve had a problem here” and held its collective breadth as the safe return of three astronauts packed into a Lunar Module 200,000 miles from earth became dependant on their ability to precisely time a 14 second burn of the module’s thrusters – a task achieved with a NASA qualified Omega Speedmaster. John F. Kennedy famously declared that we choose to go to the moon not because it is easy, but because it is hard. While nothing about the nearly tragic Apollo 13 story makes this land-loving watch nerd want to get a closer view of the stars, others feel inspired to embody Kennedy’s words and to keep pushing farther… 586 times farther, to be exact. Kicking off this exciting new phase of space travel is NASA’s Artemis Program, which will bring a new generation of astronauts to the moon with new technology to be used on the quest for Mars. The Watch Watch collectors looking to cel...

In-Depth: F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Vertical SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Sep 12, 2024

In-Depth: F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Vertical

The very first wristwatch François-Paul Journe created was the Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalité – three prototypes were made in 1993 and he retained the very first example. Arguably the most famous F.P. Journe wristwatch alongside the Résonance, the tourbillon has since evolved into the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical, which is likely the final version of the watchmaker’s take on Abraham-Louis Breguet’s invention. Conceived for chronometric utility as a wristwatch, the Tourbillon Vertical, or “TV” for short, is the latest iteration of Mr Journe’s interpretation of A.-L. Breguet’s invention. It was launched in 2019 for the 20th anniversary of the Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite. The vertical tourbillon sits in a countersink with mirror-polished sides The Tourbillon Vertical retains the signature double feature of the original F.P. Journe tourbillon, namely a tourbillon regulator and a remontoir d’egalite, or constant force device. But while the prototype and all subsequent iterations of the F.P. Journe tourbillon had a flat tourbillon on the same plane as the movement, the Tourbillon Vertical is self-descriptive. Its tourbillon sits perpendicular to the movement, with both the carriage and balance wheel standing at a 90° angle to the plane of the dial. In sophistication, finish, materials, and even size, the Tourbillon Vertical is far removed from the 1993 prototypes. Yet it is quintessential F.P. Journe in its elegant, concise technical approach while al...

Three Weeks And Several Ocean Adventures With Tudor’s Black Bay 54 Fratello
Tudor s Black Bay 54 Sep 11, 2024

Three Weeks And Several Ocean Adventures With Tudor’s Black Bay 54

Tudor’s release of the Black Bay 54 in 2023 underlined the ongoing trend of smaller watches. In this feature, I consider what it’s like to live with Tudor’s Black Bay 54. This is less about specs and more about the vibe. Read on. While I appreciate a chunky tool watch as much as the next […] Visit Three Weeks And Several Ocean Adventures With Tudor’s Black Bay 54 to read the full article.

Opinion: the Moser x Studio Underd0g Collab Was Great – the Reaction from the Watch Community Was Disappointing Worn & Wound
H. Moser Sep 9, 2024

Opinion: the Moser x Studio Underd0g Collab Was Great – the Reaction from the Watch Community Was Disappointing

Without fail, there’s a moment at big industry events when you realize you’re in a bubble. At every Watches & Wonders I’ve attended, and now following my first Geneva Watch Days, there’s been a new release that has “worked” in the room among the press and other members of the community who have actually seen it, but has been less warmly received (in certain quarters) by those back home. I felt this acutely when looking at the latest from H. Moser, a collaboration with Studio Underd0g that, when I saw the press release ahead of leaving for Switzerland, I was certain would be the enthusiast community’s favorite walking away. And while I think overall you’d have to admit the watch was widely praised from all sides, there was a surprising chorus of supposed Studio Underd0g fans who didn’t take to it as kindly.  When I was pointed toward heated Instagram comment threads by friends and colleagues days after seeing the watches I was genuinely surprised. When you’re at an event like this, you’re really kind of on your own little watch industry planet. I find that there’s simply not enough time to monitor reactions to everything with a busy meeting schedule and almost no down time. It’s kind of nice, honestly, to be consumed by a single thing for a short period of time. It has a cleansing effect. But it means I’m not idly scrolling through Instagram, so the peanut gallery commentary on all the new releases was lost on me.  To summarize, the reactions i...

Introducing – Seiko Brings The Marinemaster Back to Basics, With the SLA077 and SLA079 Monochrome
Seiko Brings Sep 2, 2024

Introducing – Seiko Brings The Marinemaster Back to Basics, With the SLA077 and SLA079

The original Seiko Marinemaster – reference SBDX001 – was introduced in 2000 as a large, modern and very capable pro-oriented dive watch that represented Seiko’s best. After a pause in production, the Marinemaster returned in 2023 as a smaller, more mainstream model with a bit more polish and less water resistance, which somehow brought divided […]

More Surprising Releases Of 2024 - Unexpected Wristwear From Rolex, Omega, Credor, And More Fratello
Omega Credor Aug 24, 2024

More Surprising Releases Of 2024 - Unexpected Wristwear From Rolex, Omega, Credor, And More

Let’s face it: 2024 didn’t come loaded with optimism from brands, so we weren’t expecting big changes. Watches and Wonders was filled with evolutionary timepieces and studied tweaks, and the most surprising releases of 2024 so far caught us napping. It might have taken less to surprise me this fairly quiet year, but I’ve still […] Visit More Surprising Releases Of 2024 - Unexpected Wristwear From Rolex, Omega, Credor, And More to read the full article.

Introducing: The Urwerk EMC SR-71 - A 10th-Anniversary Edition Of The Innovative EMC Fratello
Urwerk EMC SR-71 - Aug 23, 2024

Introducing: The Urwerk EMC SR-71 - A 10th-Anniversary Edition Of The Innovative EMC

Let me take you back to 2014. This is the year that “Gangnam Style” reaches two billion views on YouTube and Luis Suarez bites an opponent at the World Cup. Did I refresh your memory? You would be forgiven if the 2014 GPHG award winners occupied a less prominent place in your mind. Let me […] Visit Introducing: The Urwerk EMC SR-71 - A 10th-Anniversary Edition Of The Innovative EMC to read the full article.

Urwerk Marks 10 Years of the EMC with the SR-71 SJX Watches
Urwerk Marks 10 Years Aug 21, 2024

Urwerk Marks 10 Years of the EMC with the SR-71

Urwerk’s highly technical and unique approach to watchmaking is captured in the EMC SR-71, a limited edition of 10 pieces to mark the 10th anniversary of a model that has a built-in user-regulation device. This edition boasts a special and tangible link to military aviation with a crank handle from alloy retrieved from the fuselage of an SR-71 “Blackbird”, the famous Cold War-era, supersonic spy plane. Initial thoughts Although sci-fi and even extravagant in terms of mechanics, materials, and shapes, Urwerk timepiece have a certain hyper-functional, instrument-like quality to them. Trademark features like the “oil change” indicator make its watches feel like actual pieces of machinery. The original EMC was launched in 2014 as an endeavour in blending traditional watchmaking with contemporary electronics and micro computing technology. Though advanced, the EMC complication is esoteric and never really gained traction. However, for a specific niche of watch geeks and nerds, the EMC is an intriguing and original idea. The bit of an SR-71 “Blackbird” in the watch adds to the geeky appeal without being too gimmicky. The EMC is not the only watch with a piece of the SR-71 in it – in fact other such watches are mostly far less expensive – but it is certainly the most advanced and innovative. The Blackbird connection Fundamentally identical in terms of function and mechanics, the EMC SR-71 is special because it features components made from an alloy recast from t...

The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer Gets the All-Black Treatment SJX Watches
Longines Mido’s latest Aug 20, 2024

The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer Gets the All-Black Treatment

Mido once again turns to its popular vintage remake with the all-black Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961. The latest in a considerable number of iterations of the model, the new Ocean Star stays faithful to the original in outline and features a trademark multicoloured decompression table on the dial. One of the smaller and less prominent brands in the Swatch Group stable that includes Omega and Longines, Mido’s latest is a limited edition of 1,961 pieces to celebrate the 80th anniversary of the Ocean Star model. Initial thoughts Vintage reissues are common enough they have become cliché, especially in this price segment. The Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 has arguably been iterated too often, each time in slightly different colourway, so the new version isn’t all that novel. That said, it is affordably priced – retail is US$1,480 – and boasts an original design thanks to the decompression scale on the dial. Additionally, this version with its black-PVD coated finish stands out against earlier variants with stealthy aesthetic that creates more contrast with the colourful dial. At the same time, the ETA calibre inside has higher specs than most movements in this price segment, a result of Mido’s parent also owning ETA. Stealthy thetics The stainless steel case measures 40.5 mm in diameter and 13.4 mm high, which give it the proportions of a modern watch despite the retro styling. The crystal is domed “glass box” style to mimic the PlexiGlas of the vint...

A Late Summer Tradition: Glashütte Original Unveils this Year’s Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date Limited Editions Worn & Wound
Glashütte Original Unveils Aug 19, 2024

A Late Summer Tradition: Glashütte Original Unveils this Year’s Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date Limited Editions

Once again, Glashütte Original is using this relatively slow late summer period in the watch industry to bring us some 1970s inspired funk by way of their extremely underrated Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date. You might recall that each of the last three years saw new references for the chronograph in colors that are seasonally appropriate, and also harken back to a period of watch design when brands were less afraid to experiment. That’s a fitting way to introduce this particular watch to new audiences, since the design itself is very much an ode to 70s sports watches. But it’s also a pretty unique watch in its functionality, and we’ll take any excuse we can find to make sure more people know about it.  First things first: the colors. The “Swimming Pool” dial is a vibrant turquoise color inspired by a location where you’re hopefully still spending a lot of time as August draws to a close. “Watermelon” is a shade of coral that’s a bit less intense than the bright red that probably normally associate with the fruit. If you look back at previous summertime editions of the Seventies Chronograph, these colors might look somewhat familiar (Glashütte Original previously released dials in similar tones that they classified as blue and orange). But it appears that these dials have a more uniform finish than the sunburst treatment seen in earlier editions, and they also add a black ring around each subdial adding what I think is some welcome contrast.  That...

The Watch that Made AliExpress Homages Cool Two Broke Watch Snobs
Omega Seamasters these brands specialize Aug 10, 2024

The Watch that Made AliExpress Homages Cool

When it comes to provenance, nothing has less of it than an AliExpress homage. On this online platform based in China that sells inexpensive Chinese products, there are plenty of watch brands (or should I say manufacturers?) offering copycat versions of watches with actual provenance. Selling everything from look-alike Seiko Turtles to Omega Seamasters, these brands specialize in affordable (often in the $100 to $300 dollar range) versions of popular watches.

Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Balazs’ Picks From Casio, Ming, And Vacheron Constantin Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Putting Aug 7, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Balazs’ Picks From Casio, Ming, And Vacheron Constantin

Putting a list of three watches together sounds easier than it is. On the one hand, we have budget limitations-one watch should be €1,000 or less, the next should come in under €10,000, and the last could cost anything. Within those price points, the options are so vast that it’s genuinely a challenge to settle […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Balazs’ Picks From Casio, Ming, And Vacheron Constantin to read the full article.

Holthinrichs Announces their New Haute Horlogerie Project Worn & Wound
Holthinrichs Announces their New Haute Aug 6, 2024

Holthinrichs Announces their New Haute Horlogerie Project

Earlier this year, when Dutch independent brand Holthinrichs announced their new Signature Collection, we thought it was one of the most impressive new projects in indie watchmaking. It represented a bold shift for the brand, moving from complex, bespoke watchmaking to something more easily repeatable and at a more approachable price point. With advances in manufacturing capabilities, the new and less expensive Signature Collection actually represents a vision of watchmaking far closer to what brand founder Michiel Holthinrichs had always intended. It was, and remains, an exciting story for fans of the brand, but after seeing Holthinrichs steadily create watches that are more and more ambitious in recent years, we’ve kept hope alive that the brand hadn’t completely abandoned their goals of creating something truly high end and in-house.  Now, on the heels of the Signature Collection comes word of a new project within Holthinrichs that would appear to fill the void of truly high end watchmaking that was left when the brand transitioned to their new model. Holthinrichs Haute Horlogerie provides an outlet for the brand’s most ambitious ideas, and the first watch under this new banner, the Ornament Nouveau, is unlike anything they’ve attempted previously.  Like every watch Holthinrichs has made, the defining characteristic of the new piece is its sculptural design. But with the Ornament Nouveau, those ideas have been manifested not just in the case and dial design, b...

Hands On: Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind SJX Watches
Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind Aug 6, 2024

Hands On: Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind

A limited edition that is classic Cartier in terms of style, the Santos-Dumont Rewind is elegant but whimsically different. The Rewind retains the exact same dimensions of the standard Santos-Dumont “Large” model, but is unique in two ways. The more obvious is the dial, which is carnelian, a brown-red mineral stone with a nuanced colour. Less obvious at first glance is the reversed hour track around the dial that complements hour and minutes hands that track anticlockwise – hence “Rewind”. Initial thoughts The Santos-Dumont Rewind captures the traditional Cartier style, but with a twist. As a result, it’s more than a standard Santos-Dumont, but not too much. Most of its defining elements are not apparent at a distance, so it’s fairly subtle. Everything is just right, and makes for a compelling watch. Although this is the Large model (rather than the Extra Large that I personally prefer), the platinum case has a good heft. The bright colour of the metal also contrasts well with the dark red carnelian dial that reveals interesting shading up close. The grain of carnelian is more subtle than the mineral stones commonly found in watches, particularly malachite and lapis lazuli. This suits the low-key complication well. As for the hands that go backwards, it takes some getting used to. The complication is clearly pointless, but appealing because it has an elegant simplicity that suits the watch. The Rewind costs US$38,400, which is fair enough for a wristwatch w...

A Close Look At Krayon And Its Sunrise And Sunset Complications Fratello
Krayon Jul 24, 2024

A Close Look At Krayon And Its Sunrise And Sunset Complications

Krayon is a watch brand that has been around for less than a decade. I say “brand,” but I should probably say “independent watchmaker” instead. Krayon founder and owner Rémi Maillat debuted with his Everywhere watch in 2017. Today, he produces around 40 watches annually with 12 collaborators in their Neuchâtel atelier. Maillat’s signature is […] Visit A Close Look At Krayon And Its Sunrise And Sunset Complications to read the full article.

Alternative Rectangular Cool - Five Great Options From Hermès, Oris, Timex, And More Fratello
Cartier s resurgence Jul 6, 2024

Alternative Rectangular Cool - Five Great Options From Hermès, Oris, Timex, And More

Cartier’s resurgence is massive, with the brand riding a Kanagawa-sized wave of sales and praise. And yes, along with the Tank, we also love the JLC Reverso and its flippable charms. But what if your budget is a lot less or you simply don’t love those watches’ looks? Trust us, for your wrist, there’s a […] Visit Alternative Rectangular Cool - Five Great Options From Hermès, Oris, Timex, And More to read the full article.

Hot Take: The Zenith Defy Skyline Édition Paris Fratello
Zenith Defy Skyline Édition Paris Jul 1, 2024

Hot Take: The Zenith Defy Skyline Édition Paris

The Summer Olympics will kick off in Paris in less than a month. Zenith has created the Defy Skyline Édition Paris to help celebrate the occasion. It uses a different style of dial, which may leave potential buyers wishing that this limited edition watch wasn’t only offered in France. Omega is the first brand that […] Visit Hot Take: The Zenith Defy Skyline Édition Paris to read the full article.