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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Introducing - The New Superlight Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Superleggero Monochrome
2 days ago

Introducing - The New Superlight Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Superleggero

Officially launched just two years ago, Gagà Laboratorio is a spin-off of the longstanding Italian luxury designer watchmaker Gagà Milano. The inaugural Labormatic line encapsulates the brand’s highly creative mechanical personality, underscored by 1950s Italian industrial design codes and powered by Swiss La Joux-Perret movements. Instead of traditional hands, the Labormatic displays the digital hours […]

First Look - The new Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Rose Gold Milano Blue Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Rose 2 days ago

First Look - The new Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Rose Gold Milano Blue

The Tonda PF collection by Parmigiani Fleurier is one of the most appealing contemporary takes on the luxury sports watch genre. Elegant, discreet and deliberately restrained, the collection has always favoured proportion and refined details over overtly demonstrative design. The same approach has been applied to the skeletonised versions, and now the brand introduces a new […]

Power To The People: The Fan-Selected Seiko Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver Fratello
Seiko Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver 4 days ago

Power To The People: The Fan-Selected Seiko Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver

Seiko has added something unusual to its Prospex collection — a watch with a design chosen by the brand’s fan community. The new 1965 Heritage Diver’s Watch Fan-Selected Limited Edition HBC011 takes the modern interpretation of Seiko’s first diver and gives it a vibrant blue treatment, following a global fan vote held last year. Limited […] Visit Power To The People: The Fan-Selected Seiko Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver to read the full article.

Getting To The Core: The Updated Formex Essence Automatic COSC 39mm Fratello
Formex Essence Automatic COSC 39mm 6 days ago

Getting To The Core: The Updated Formex Essence Automatic COSC 39mm

The Formex Essence Automatic COSC 39mm is a clear example of watch evolution. It’s proof that progress is less about changing the design than refining what is already there. The 39mm case, its proportions, design, and overall presence on the wrist remain unchanged. Why change a winning “team” when the 39mm Essence is the brand’s […] Visit Getting To The Core: The Updated Formex Essence Automatic COSC 39mm to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: How Microbrands Have Changed The Game Fratello
Aug 27, 2026

Fratello Talks: How Microbrands Have Changed The Game

Microbrands have come a long way. What were once largely associated with inexpensive, enthusiast-driven watches have developed into a much broader part of the industry. Today, small brands are experimenting with materials, movements, manufacturing techniques, and design in ways that can make them serious alternatives to more established names. In this episode of Fratello Talks, […] Visit Fratello Talks: How Microbrands Have Changed The Game to read the full article.

Does The Bvlgari Aluminium Nail Neo-Futurism? (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
Bvlgari Aluminium Nail Neo-Futurism? Hands-On Aug 26, 2026

Does The Bvlgari Aluminium Nail Neo-Futurism? (Hands-On)

Bvlgari’s Aluminium collection is one of their most disruptive collections, but does the cult classic still hold up? Let’s find out! What We Love: Highly wearable Unconventional, fun design Accessible relative to the catalogue What We Don’t: Underdeveloped movement Round lugs get caught under sleeves Can a cult classic become a flagship piece? Overall Rating: 7.5/10 Value for Money: 7/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality:7/10 ‘Accessibility’ and ‘Bvlgari’ aren’t two terms that usually go hand-in-hand. This is mostly by design; the Italo-Swiss brand is mostly known for its extreme luxuries, combining the very best of the jewellery and watchmaking industries to do so. This often leads to designs of equally high ambition and extravagance, such as the Octo Finissimo’s record-breaking history or the inspired silhouette of its Diva’s Dream collection. But for as ostentatious as Bvlgari’s average price tag can be, the brand also offers its signature disruption at a relatively accessible price point. Through the Bvlgari Aluminium, a collection assembled from a medley of design cues from watches past, the brand proposes a sporty timepiece that is neither built nor designed like anything else. Not only does the line look like it was frozen in time, but its combination of aluminium and rubber is an experiment in materials unlike anything else on the market. But does the watch’s uniqueness still stand on its own, even when surrounded by a sea of h...

Introducing - The Maison Alcée x MB&F; Nostromo, an Alien-Like Creation to Build Yourself Monochrome
MB&F; Aug 26, 2026

Introducing - The Maison Alcée x MB&F; Nostromo, an Alien-Like Creation to Build Yourself

Just ahead of Geneva Watch Days, MB&F; has teamed up with Maison Alcée to release a wonderful build-it-yourself mechanical desk clock. Celebrating the 15th anniversary of MB&F;’s M.A.D. Gallery, the two brands have collaborated on Nostromo, an alien-like creature that reflects MB&F;’s passion for extraterrestrial design and Maison Alcée’s dexterity in producing DIY desk clock […]

Introducing - By Popular Choice… The new Seiko Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver “Fan-Selected” HBC011 Monochrome
Seiko Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver Aug 26, 2026

Introducing - By Popular Choice… The new Seiko Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver “Fan-Selected” HBC011

Last year marked the 60th anniversary of the first-ever dive watch created by Seiko, the now-emblematic 62MAS model. Still a great source of inspiration for the brand, its clean and purposeful design has been modernised to be the basis for the creation of the contemporary yet retro-inspired Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver 300m. Last year, the […]

Blancpain Introduces the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Blancpain Introduces Aug 24, 2026

Blancpain Introduces the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary Limited Edition

You know, I actually wasn’t going to write about this watch. An $18,000 vintage inspired dive watch from a brand that doesn’t hold a ton of personal relevance to me was just not super high on my list of priorities as Geneva Watch Days prep is now in full swing (this time next week, I will be surviving on CHF 10 Coke Zeros). But, over the weekend the collective watch internet kind of lost its mind over the new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary Limited Edition, so I shifted my to-do list around a bit and, well, here we are.  Of course, there have been a lot of memes and jokes about this watch sharing a certain similarity to the Seiko 62MAS and the many, many reinterpretations and reissues of that watch over the years. I’m frankly less interested in those aesthetic similarities than I am in the very conceit of this watch, what it illuminates about Blancpain, and the way it fits into the neverending conversation around price sensitivity that we’ve been having for months as we see MSRPs shoot higher and higher. But what I’ll say about the appearance of the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary Limited Edition is simply that, at this point, 70 years on from the advent of this type of watch, I don’t think any brand really owns the aesthetic identity of something so generic. Lots and lots of watches from all kinds of brands look like this, just like lots and lots of watches look like a Speedmaster, or a Calatrava. The design tropes of these wat...

Hands-On: The Sylvain Pinaud Tourbillon Hodinkee
Aug 21, 2026

Hands-On: The Sylvain Pinaud Tourbillon

Earlier in April, right before the kickoff of Watches and Wonders, Swiss independent Sylvain Pinaud announced his third major creation since the founding of his workshop in 2018. First came his Monopoussoir Chronograph, then arguably the more recognizable time-only Origine series. This third entry in the collection is the pragmatically named Sylvain Pinaud Tourbillon—any guesses what complication this watch holds?  I kid, but the new watches are an absolute treat to see and handle in person. Even though the intense wave of new releases from dozens of brands in Geneva may have quickly steered the online conversation away from these new watches toward Jubilee dials and Nautilus desk clocks, these watches did not go unnoticed by collectors. Thirty of them, to be precise. The Sylvain Pinaud Tourbillon was announced in three limited editions of ten pieces each, priced at CHF 180,000, and all three variants sold out within days. But before we get to the new watches, you might be asking what the situation is with the watchmaker these days, given that every decently well-known high-end independent watchmaker seems never to struggle with demand. That's pretty much the case here, too. Long story short, Pinaud and his team of 8 produce around 25 watches per year, and the Origine series has been fully allocated through its planned run through 2027. Given the sell-out of the Tourbillon and the sunsetting of the Origine, it kind of sounds like there isn't much to offer a prospective ...

Introducing: The Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph And Senator Chronograph Navigator Hodinkee
Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Aug 20, 2026

Introducing: The Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph And Senator Chronograph Navigator

What We Know Today, Glashütte Original introduces two new flyback chronographs, replacing the Senator Chronograph Panorama Date models currently in the collection. While both models fall under the brand's Senator line, the new Senator Chronograph and Senator Chronograph Navigator could not be more opposed in aesthetics and spirit. First is the new Senator Chronograph Navigator, which departs significantly from the Senator line's overarching classical design language. With only a few exceptions, you're most likely expecting to see at least a few Roman numerals on any Senator dial. But the Navigator takes the chronograph down a much more utilitarian route, with what I believe is the brand's only conventional tool-watch design outside the SeaQ dive watch lineup. The matte black dial features three-dimensional, solid, luminescent applied Arabic hour numerals, while the rest of the dial text is printed in white to provide sharp contrast and improve legibility. The large subdials for the running seconds and elapsed minutes are snailed in texture, while a recessed faceting frames the oversized Panorama Date at six o'clock. The sword hands here are filled with a generous proportion of Super-LumiNova, and the remaining hands are all finished in white lacquer. The Senator Chronograph, sans Navigator, streamlines the layout of the outgoing Senator Chronograph Panorama Date for a more conventional look while still feeling familiar. A galvanic silver dial in soft white holds solid-gol...

A Heavenly “Match” - The Olympique De Marseille × Jacques Bianchi Marseille JB200 Chronometer Limited Edition Fratello
Aug 20, 2026

A Heavenly “Match” - The Olympique De Marseille × Jacques Bianchi Marseille JB200 Chronometer Limited Edition

“Droit au But,” translated roughly as “Straight to the Goal,” has been Olympique de Marseille’s motto since the club’s foundation in 1899 and appears beneath the “OM” crest. OM is one of the most recognizable clubs in French football. Its greatest achievement came on May 26th, 1993, when OM defeated AC Milan 1–0 in Munich […] Visit A Heavenly “Match” — The Olympique De Marseille × Jacques Bianchi Marseille JB200 Chronometer Limited Edition to read the full article.

Introducing - The New Norqain Independence Skeleton Titanium DLC Monochrome
Norqain Independence Skeleton Titanium DLC Aug 19, 2026

Introducing - The New Norqain Independence Skeleton Titanium DLC

Since the debut of the Independence Skeleton in 2022, followed by the fifth-anniversary Skeleton editions in 2023 and the more compact 40mm model introduced last year, Norqain has established its approach to skeletonisation. Without chasing the extremes, the brand offers a combination of a contemporary openworked design and the robust, adventure-ready character that defines the […]

The Charming Kiwame Tokyo Yane Is Like Putting A Japanese Temple Roof On Your Wrist Fratello
Ming Kiwame Tokyo Yane Aug 19, 2026

The Charming Kiwame Tokyo Yane Is Like Putting A Japanese Temple Roof On Your Wrist

Ten years ago, my wife and I went to Japan for vacation. We strolled through Tokyo, visited the beaches of Okinawa, and toured the temples of Kyoto. Some of the things I photographed most on that trip must’ve been the countless temple roofs. They’re so characteristic and graceful with their sloping shapes and carefully placed […] Visit The Charming Kiwame Tokyo Yane Is Like Putting A Japanese Temple Roof On Your Wrist to read the full article.

Hands-On Review With The Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver WatchAdvice
Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A Ushio Aug 18, 2026

Hands-On Review With The Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver

We go hands-on with the new Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver, and see why this is the watch Grand Seiko fans and watch enthusiasts have been wanting! What We Love The new case size and dimensions That dial, I mean, seriously?! The new bracelet and clasp design What We Don’t The lack of a date window The full titanium construction may not be to everyone’s liking The anti-magnetism could be increased to accommodate modern life Overall Rating: 8.75 / 10 Value For Money: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 This year, Grand Seiko upped the ante and took the fight to the swath of other luxury dive watches on the market with the release of its new Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver, which was released at Watches & Wonders 2026. It was the dive watch Grand Seiko enthusiasts had been wanting and waiting for. A smaller, more wearable diver that was a little more contemporary than the models it replaced. With a raft of changes, including a smaller, better-proportioned case, a redesigned bracelet, new micro-adjustment and a more modern dial aesthetic, the new Ushio 300 Diver ticked so many boxes. Plus, Grand Seiko decided that steel was too heavy for a sports watch, so they made it from High-Intensity Titanium instead. The 2026 Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver models We had the privilege of previewing it before Watches & Wonders, and while the article I wrote up for the Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A 300 Ushio Diver was a ...

Just Because - Berneron Quietly Reveals its next Chapter, The Mirage Miroir Monochrome
Berneron Aug 18, 2026

Just Because - Berneron Quietly Reveals its next Chapter, The Mirage Miroir

Since founding his independent brand in 2022, Sylvain Berneron has built a reputation around a distinctive approach to form, mechanics and scarcity. His experience on the creative side of major organisations clearly shaped his understanding of both product design and the power of restraint. His first watch, the Mirage, established that philosophy immediately. Introduced in […]

Insight: The Science of Gear Tooth Profiles SJX Watches
Ming ly minor variations have Aug 18, 2026

Insight: The Science of Gear Tooth Profiles

Having explored several concepts related to energy systems in watchmaking, from mainspring barrel capacity to automatic winding and the chain and fusee, our technical series continues with a detailed examination of how that energy reaches the escapement. A vital part of all watch movements, gears are usually taken for granted and generally not given much thought. But upon closer look, gear tooth profiles vary in shape and size. These seemingly minor variations have big implications and reveal various calculated trade-offs. We take a closer look at the different gear profiles used in watchmaking and review their particularities and evolutions over time.  History and curves Mechanical timekeeping is inextricably linked to the concept of gears and transmissions. Long before the invention of the hairspring, early craftsmen and horologists were already using toothed wheels in conjunction with weights, verge escapements, and pendulums to measure the passage of time.  Historically, gear-cutters were separate professionals who catered to clock makers. Horological lore has it that the tooth profiles used during the 1600s were traced after the thumb’s shape, although it’s difficult find evidence for this theory. The invention of the hairspring marked a step-change in the technical evolution of the watch, and the later development of detached escapements enhanced precision further. These advances revealed transmission problems that had previously been masked by larger timing er...

A Dashboard Clock Gives Birth to the Louis Vuitton x Singer Porsche 911 SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Aug 17, 2026

A Dashboard Clock Gives Birth to the Louis Vuitton x Singer Porsche 911

A cult brand specialising in “restomod” Porsche 911s, specifically the 964, Singer Vehicle Design’s latest commission is pair reimagined by Louis Vuitton. The Porsche 911 Reimagined by Singer – Classic and – Classic Turbo are striking examples of engineering, artisanal craft, and luxury branding all rolled into one. The pair of 911s originated with an order for a mechanical dashboard clock for a prior Singer commission, which led the two brands to collaborate on this duo. Both cars are naturally fitted with a hand-wound, eight-day clock fitted into the dashboard, but which can be removed and transformed into a desk clock. And the Turbo also include an ivory ceramic Tambour wristwatch as a bonus. The dash clock inside the 911 Classic Initial thoughts Interestingly, this pair of 911s is more of a collaboration between Singer and Louis Vuitton’s watch division rather than the wider company. The dashboard clock request that gave birth to these two cars began with a Singer 911 parked outside a Louis Vuitton watch event several years ago. The two 911s underline the long established common denominations between cars and watches, ranging from fine engineering to a shared audience. Many have come before, from Porsche Design and IWC, Ferrari and Girard-Perregaux, to today’s McLaren and Richard Mille. The Singer 911s stand out for being one-offs – both are beautifully executed – and priced at a level that reflects the strength of the demand for ultra-high-end objec...

Looking Through The Blinds: A Peek At The Patek Philippe Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Ref. 5840P-001 Fratello
Patek Philippe Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Aug 16, 2026

Looking Through The Blinds: A Peek At The Patek Philippe Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Ref. 5840P-001

The introduction of the distinctly different-shaped Cubitus collection in October 2024 didn’t go unnoticed. Patek Philippe stated that the Cubitus collection’s mission is “to offer a new reinterpretation of the ‘elegant, sporty’ style” through a design in which the square bezel adopts rounded corners, “blending the square, the circle, and the octagon.” When you look at the basic […] Visit Looking Through The Blinds: A Peek At The Patek Philippe Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Ref. 5840P-001 to read the full article.