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The Swatch Group

Largest Swiss watch employer (~17,000 staff). 18 brands from Breguet/Blancpain at the top to Swatch at entry. ETA SA + Nivarox-FAR. Hayek family controls.

Ahead of Its 50th Anniversary Year, Raymond Weil Introduces the Toccata Heritage Capsule Collection Worn & Wound
Raymond Weil Oct 29, 2025

Ahead of Its 50th Anniversary Year, Raymond Weil Introduces the Toccata Heritage Capsule Collection

Watches & Wonders can be a blur of new releases in and of itself. So, when a brand asks if you want to preview some upcoming introductions for the year ahead, it can start to make your head spin. However, at my Raymond Weil appointment this past spring, I relinquished. The brand had a small display of archival pieces in a vitrine at their booth, and its Chief Marketing Officer Jeremie Bernheim assured me the reveal would be worth viewing alongside the mini museum of vintage designs. What he shared with me was a new capsule within Raymond Weil’s Toccata collection drawing from the retro models and aptly named Toccata Heritage. Today, this collection comes to you in nine styles, each more beautiful than the next, and with the option of either quartz or mechanical, manually wound movements for the first time. If you have followed Raymond Weil through any point of its nearly 50-year history, you know the brand loves to play with shape and case architecture. The existing Toccata collection explores this with a combination of rectangular and round models. For the new Toccata Heritage capsule, the maison has refined this design language even further. Here, you have a shape the brand simply calls oval, but in my humble opinion, this description does not do the case justice. The case design of the new Toccata Heritage models is decidedly not the harsh, egg-shaped oval profile you might associate with other watch brands. Instead, it takes the structure of the current rectangular m...

Hands-on – The Delma Oceanmaster Lume… Nighttime Legibility for Real-World Sailing Monochrome
Oct 29, 2025

Hands-on – The Delma Oceanmaster Lume… Nighttime Legibility for Real-World Sailing

Delma isn’t a newcomer pretending to be a tool-watch brand. The independent, family-run company has been crafting robust sports watches in Lengnau since 1924 and has earned its reputation with capable (or highly capable) divers since the late 1960s. Within that foundation, the Oceanmaster line (introduced in 2017) is the brand’s nautical instrument: a large […]

Hands-On With The Seiko Speedtimer SSC959 European Limited Edition Fratello
Seiko Speedtimer SSC959 European Limited Oct 29, 2025

Hands-On With The Seiko Speedtimer SSC959 European Limited Edition

The Seiko Speedtimer traces its roots back to the 1960s, offering plenty of sports timing and racing pedigree. Today, I got a chance to go hands-on with the line’s latest incarnation, the solar-powered SSC959 limited edition. I say “limited,” but Seiko is producing a whopping 3,000 of these. Perhaps more important than its numerical limitation […] Visit Hands-On With The Seiko Speedtimer SSC959 European Limited Edition to read the full article.

A Hands-On Introduction To The Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage Series Fratello
Raymond Weil Oct 29, 2025

A Hands-On Introduction To The Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage Series

Ask enthusiasts to name an affordable and fan-favorite series of dress watches, and chances are that Raymond Weil’s Millesime collection will pop up in several answers. We love the Millesime, a charming line of retro-styled watches with a model for everyone. Now, the brand follows up the highly successful Millesime with the new Toccata Heritage. […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage Series to read the full article.

Citizen’s Cutting-Edge Quartz Shines in Recrystallised Titanium SJX Watches
Citizen s Cutting-Edge Quartz Shines Oct 29, 2025

Citizen’s Cutting-Edge Quartz Shines in Recrystallised Titanium

The new Citizen Attesa Platinum Shine collection leans into the brand’s two greatest strengths: cutting-edge quartz technology and mastery of titanium. With three limited edition references in a new platinum-coloured hue, Citizen demonstrates why it’s still the leader in titanium watches, 55 years after making the first one. Thanks to a decadent recrystallised titanium bracelet and nearly scratch-proof Duratect coating, the new Attesa proves that quartz can still feel luxurious. Ref. CB0284-66A. Initial thoughts Almost as soon as quartz timekeeping technology began to mature and prices began to fall in the 1980s, makers of quartz watches began to cede the luxury end of market to brands that focused on mechanical watches. But that never stopped a few brands, Citizen and Seiko chief among them, from pursuing the development of ever-better quartz technology and bringing it to market in a premium format. The ultimate expression of this focus is probably the Citizen cal. 0100, the most accurate wristwatch in the world. The Citizen 0100 – the world’s most accurate wristwatch. But quartz is just one part of the equation for Citizen, which has also achieved a leading market position in two specific fields. The first is solar power. Light-powered watches is nothing new, dating back to 1972, but it was Citizen’s advances in the late 1970s that propelled this technology forward. In 1995, the brand debuted Eco-Drive, which remains the leading light in solar-powered timekeep...

Hands-On With The New 38mm Omega Speedmaster Milano Cortina 2026 Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Milano Cortina 2026 Oct 29, 2025

Hands-On With The New 38mm Omega Speedmaster Milano Cortina 2026

Omega’s timekeeping for the Olympic Winter Games dates back to 1936 in Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Each New Year’s Day, a thrilling ski jump takes place at the Große Olympiaschanze, known in English as the Great Olympic Hill. It’s a cherished family tradition - though I’m the only one watching these days - to tune in to the […] Visit Hands-On With The New 38mm Omega Speedmaster Milano Cortina 2026 to read the full article.

Unimatic and The Armoury Celebrate a Pair of Anniversaries with a New Limited Edition Modello Cinque Worn & Wound
Unimatic Oct 28, 2025

Unimatic and The Armoury Celebrate a Pair of Anniversaries with a New Limited Edition Modello Cinque

It’s well understood that anniversaries in the watch world are fertile ground for new projects. We see it on what amounts to a weekly basis at this point, brands celebrating milestones for collections, movements, and of course the founding of the brand itself. Collaborations are also at the heart of pushing new products to watch enthusiasts, which again needs no further explanation at this point. So in that sense, the new limited edition release from Unimatic in partnership with the Armoury should be the least surprising thing ever. It’s a watch that represents the continuation of a collaborative relationship and a celebration of a pair of anniversaries.  The Armoury, the menswear retailer founded by Mark Cho, turns 15 this year, the same year that Unimatic turns ten. It’s a good opportunity to reflect on the impact both the Armoury and Unimatic have had in the watch space in that time. Unimatic has developed into one of the leading design focused, approachable, independent brands. Like Ming, Fears, and a small handful of other brands that have hit their stride in roughly the same time period, they have an unmistakable aesthetic that is recognizable from across a room, as well as a committed contingent of fans that hang on every new release. And while the Armoury did not begin as an outpost for watches, it’s become an important part of the community thanks to Mark Cho’s genuine dedication to watches. He’s a true collector and admirer of great watches (at all p...

First Look – The Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage is an Attainable, Elegant Take on the Elliptical Shaped Watch (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Raymond Weil Oct 28, 2025

First Look – The Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage is an Attainable, Elegant Take on the Elliptical Shaped Watch (Incl. Video)

Following the success of the Millesime collection, a series of vintage-inspired, 1930s-based watches that have been praised by enthusiasts and industry insiders (including us), Raymond Weil is back with yet another “Heritage” collection, despite being a relatively young brand founded in 1976. Surfing on the renewed interest for shaped, classic and dressier timepieces, the brand introduces the […]

"Are Citizen Watches Good?" In-Depth With The Japanese Brand Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Oct 28, 2025

"Are Citizen Watches Good?" In-Depth With The Japanese Brand

How much do you really know about Citizen Watches, the tough and stylish Promaster collection, the proprietary Eco-Drive technology, and other signature innovations of the Japanese brand, like the exclusive Super Titanium and the recent series of automatic calibers in the luxurious Series 8 models? In this article, we explore the history of Citizen Watch Company from its founding to the modern day and spotlight a dozen notable watches in today’s Citizen collection that have caught the attention of the Teddy Baldassarre team. By the end, you should be much closer to answering the question of whether Citizen watches are good-quality and whether they're for you.  Citizen History and Early Milestones With its very high-tech lineup and avant-garde designs, one might be inclined to think Citizen Watch Company is a relatively new player on the worldwide watch scene. One would be mistaken, however. The company today known as Citizen traces its roots all the way back to 1918, when it was founded as the Shokosha Watch Research Institute by Kamakechi Yamazaki. The name “Citizen” first appeared on the dial of a pocket watch that Shokosha produced in 1924; it is believed to have been suggested by Yamazaki’s close friend Shinpei Goto, then the mayor of Tokyo, who believed such a watch should be universally appealing and accessible to all “citizens” of Japan. Shokosha merged with the Schmid company, a Japan-based manufacturing firm founded by expatriate Swiss watchmaker Rodo...

Introducing – The Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR] Ahmed Seddiqi 75th Anniversary Edition Monochrome
Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR] Ahmed Seddiqi Oct 28, 2025

Introducing – The Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR] Ahmed Seddiqi 75th Anniversary Edition

Celebrating 75 years of the United Arab Emirates’ leading watch and jewellery retailer and founder of Dubai Watch Week, Ulysse Nardin releases a special version of its Diver Air for Ahmed Seddiqi. Touted as the world’s lightest mechanical dive watch, the Diver [AIR] surfaces in blue attire to mark the retailer’s anniversary. Introduced earlier this […]

Exaequo Adds New References to their Lineup of Dali Inspired Melting Watches Worn & Wound
Cartier Crash Oct 28, 2025

Exaequo Adds New References to their Lineup of Dali Inspired Melting Watches

It’s hard to overstate the impact that Salvador Dalí-and, by extension, the Surrealist movement-had on popular culture. What might now feel like a strange detour in an art history textbook was, in reality, a radical reimagining of what art could be. Dalí’s obsession with the unconscious, symbolism, and dream logic reframed art as a psychological response to culture, rather than just a mirror of it. In doing so, Surrealism paved the way for the Avant-Garde, Pop Art, and the way we think about art today. It’s no surprise, then, that Dalí’s legacy continues to ripple through design and (not to be dramatic here) time itself. Brands have long used his vision as a jumping-off point for their own explorations of time and perception, most notably, of course, through reinterpretations of some of Dali’s most famous works, like his 1931 The Persistence of Memory. The Cartier Crash, with its iconic “melting clock” case, is probably the most famous representation of this style; but it is not the only one. In fact, Exaequo has been producing its own version of a melting watch since 1990, with its latest references, the Polyhedron series, debuting at Time to Watches in Geneva earlier this year. While there will undoubtedly be comparisons between Cartier’s and  Exaequo’s two versions of a wobbly little timepiece, there is a marked difference between the two brands’ approach to the same reference source (not least of all the price). For the Polyhedron,  Exaequo...

Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 1 - A. Lange & Söhne 1815 34mm Vs. Grand Seiko SBGH368 Fratello
Grand Seiko SBGH368 Welcome Oct 28, 2025

Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 1 - A. Lange & Söhne 1815 34mm Vs. Grand Seiko SBGH368

Welcome to the first round of the Fratello Dress Watch Season contest, our effort to identify the best new dress watch of 2025. If you thought we’d kick the series off quietly, you are mistaken. The first match in round 1 immediately sees a major clash of entirely different watchmaking philosophies. Lex defends the Grand […] Visit Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 1 - A. Lange & Söhne 1815 34mm Vs. Grand Seiko SBGH368 to read the full article.

Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy Review: Tudor's Best Dive Watch Yet? Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Oct 27, 2025

Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy Review: Tudor's Best Dive Watch Yet?

The Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy was released at this year's Watches & Wonders to nothing short of acclaim by enthusiasts. Not just a fresh color, this is a redesigned Tudor Black Bay 58, essentially from top to bottom. What you’re looking at is the next generation of everybody’s favorite Black Bay size, and it debuts in a color you simply cannot ignore, and one tied to Tudor history. The Burgundy Black Bay 58 took the burgundy color usage of Black Bays from the past while leaning into the bright color scheme much more boldly than before. Rather than just adding another bezel color, Tudor decided to make the whole dial and front of the case a study in this shade of red. Where the past few years have seen Tudor experiment with satin-finished dials in its hardcore sports watches, from the Pelagos to the Black Bay 54, the 58 range has been steadfast in its use of matte or textured dial surfaces. That all changed with this iteration, as we get a punchy, sunburst burgundy dial color. You might think this is an infusion of modernity in a model known to harken back to the past, but it isn’t. It’s just harkening to a different moment in time – to a watch that Tudor never technically released. Indeed, that would be a certain 1990s Tudor Submariner Ref. 79190 prototype that had a similar red bezel/red dial combination. And while that watch never made it to the production stage, it heavily influenced the brand’s decision when it released the very first Black Bay with a bu...

Industry News – With Tariffs Now in Place, Swiss Watch Exports to the U.S. Have Dropped 56% in September 2025 Monochrome
Oct 27, 2025

Industry News – With Tariffs Now in Place, Swiss Watch Exports to the U.S. Have Dropped 56% in September 2025

This announcement shouldn’t come as a surprise and was largely anticipated by the industry. Yet, now that the 39% import taxes imposed by the U.S. administration on Swiss goods entering American soil, also known as the tariffs, are effective (since the beginning of August), we clearly see the effects. And yes, there is no other […]

The Greatest Horological Masterpieces of All Time: the Harrison H4 – A Groundbreaking Timepiece That Solved The Longitude Problem Worn & Wound
Oct 27, 2025

The Greatest Horological Masterpieces of All Time: the Harrison H4 – A Groundbreaking Timepiece That Solved The Longitude Problem

A series of features identifying the most extraordinary mechanical masterpieces in history, blending precision, innovation, and craftsmanship. We all have our favourite timepieces either in our collection or those incredible horological masterpieces that have been invented or created through the ages. This series will showcase examples from the previous centuries up to the present day and look at the importance and impact on modern day timekeeping.  John Harrison’s H4 Chronometer was a groundbreaking timepiece that solved the longitude problem, a major challenge for navigation during the 18th century. Before Harrison’s work, sailors had no reliable way to determine their precise east-west position at sea, leading to deadly navigation errors. The British government, through the Longitude Act of 1714, offered a large prize to anyone who could develop a practical solution. Sir Cloudesley Shovell, by Michael Dahl, about 1702-5 (L); The Association with the Eagle, Rumney and the Firebrand, Lost on the Rocks of Scilly, October 22, 1707 (R). Image courtesy of the © National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London The Catalyst for the Longitude Act In the early 18th century, determining longitude at sea was one of the greatest challenges in navigation. While sailors could measure latitude using the position of the sun or stars, longitude required precise timekeeping-something that was nearly impossible with the unreliable clocks of the time. The inability to determ...