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New releases from Zenith, Vacheron Constantin, Mr Jones and more Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Mr Jones Aug 26, 2023

New releases from Zenith, Vacheron Constantin, Mr Jones and more

With Geneva Watch Days inching ever closer, more and more watches are being presented. As always, we chose only ten, with some amazing releases being left out. Considering the fair looming ever closer, we’re maybe just a touch worried, as the European summer holidays come to an end and GWD reach their peak. Either way, … ContinuedThe post New releases from Zenith, Vacheron Constantin, Mr Jones and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Wear this Pride-themed Swatch in Malaysia and you face a three-year jail term Time+Tide
Swatch Aug 11, 2023

Wear this Pride-themed Swatch in Malaysia and you face a three-year jail term

A couple of weeks ago, T+T reported how Swatch were suing the Malaysian government after it seized 172 of their watches from stores. The reason for the seizure?  The watches, which come in either rainbow colours or a single colour with a rainbow trim, were released in support of Pride, the movement that promotes the … ContinuedThe post Wear this Pride-themed Swatch in Malaysia and you face a three-year jail term appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Norqain Introduces Two New Neverest Glacier References with Dials Inspired by the Khumbu Icefall Worn & Wound
Norqain Introduces Two New Neverest Aug 11, 2023

Norqain Introduces Two New Neverest Glacier References with Dials Inspired by the Khumbu Icefall

Adventure and a well-made timepiece have long gone hand-in-hand. From Arctic expeditions to sailing adventures, the spirit of discovery is only enhanced by a great watch to keep one company. One natural landmark above all others seems to encapsulate the spirit of adventure, while simultaneously showing us the beauty of the natural world: Mount Everest. With its dangerous valleys, snowy peaks, and legendary status in our collective imagination, Mount Everest has captured thrill seekers for centuries. It’s no wonder, then, that NORQAIN has added two new models to its NEVEREST range, each continuing to highlight the exceptionalism of the world’s tallest mountain. Each watch in this new release takes on its own interpretation of mountaineering excellence with a modern feel, making for a unique interpretation of Mount Everest’s legacy that doesn’t feel too contrived or on the nose. For example, the NEVEREST GMT Glacier Grey & Gold takes inspiration from the gold light-filled crevasses of the mountain with a “cracked” gold dial against a black background. The watch is complemented by a 41mm stainless steel case, a date window at 3 o’clock, red gold-plated hands, and Superluminova hands and indices. It’s the small details of this watch which show not only an attention to detail, but an imagination to marry performance and aesthetics. The second release from the NEVEREST line-up is the 40mm Glacier Black & Gold. Inspired by the Khumbu Icefall, the most dangerous pa...

Vero Introduces a Pair of Watches Inspired by the Long History of Smokey Bear, the Iconic National Symbol of Forest Conservation Worn & Wound
Aug 9, 2023

Vero Introduces a Pair of Watches Inspired by the Long History of Smokey Bear, the Iconic National Symbol of Forest Conservation

Here’s a character watch we never saw coming. To celebrate the 79th birthday of Smokey Bear (famous for his “Only you can prevent wildfires” tagline), Vero is releasing a pair of officially licensed Smokey Bear watches. It’s actually a natural partnership for Vero. As a fire prevention mascot, Smokey is well known in the Pacific Northwest, where Vero is based. And Vero’s brand identity very much leans into the culture of love for the outdoors – it’s a huge part of every watch they make, both in terms of the aesthetics (with designs and colors inspired by Vero’s Oregon home) and their robust nature (the Workhorse comes immediately to mind). These new watches have a charm factor that’s just about off the charts if you grew up seeing Smokey on TV warning you about the dangers of forest fires, but they’re also Vero through and through.  First up is the Smokey ‘44 watch, which takes its inspiration from the types of early field style watches that would have been in use the year Smokey made his debut. The dominant feature here is the large cathedral hour hand, paired with Arabic numerals in a distinctive gothic typeface. Vero says this typeface was chosen to match iconic mid century signage found in the US National Parks System. The Smokey ‘44 watch includes the familiar illustration of Smokey (wearing his hat, of course) at the 12:00 position, with “Only You” text right underneath, a reference to his iconic catchphrase.  The Smokey ‘64 is perhaps...

The new Bovet 1822 Récital 23 in green and blue is a visual extravaganza for the wrist Time+Tide
Bovet Aug 3, 2023

The new Bovet 1822 Récital 23 in green and blue is a visual extravaganza for the wrist

The Bovet 1822 Récital 23 is advertised as a women’s watch, however it can suit any lover of opulence. The Writing Slope case angles the dial towards you for easier reading. The moonphase display only needs adjusting every 122 years, and the twin-barrel movement offers 62 hours of power reserve. Bovet are a brand with … ContinuedThe post The new Bovet 1822 Récital 23 in green and blue is a visual extravaganza for the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Now in the Shop: A Trio of Oris Cotton Candy Flavors, Now in Steel Worn & Wound
Oris Cotton Candy Flavors Now Jul 31, 2023

Now in the Shop: A Trio of Oris Cotton Candy Flavors, Now in Steel

Is it even summer if you go the whole thing without some cotton candy? If the sugary-sweet treat isn’t for you, then you can get your fix in watch form with this trio of cotton candy divers from Oris. Originally encased in bronze, this fun and colorful trio of Divers Sixty-Fives were certainly unique, but the patina-heavy cases may not have been for everyone. Not only does this new release of 38mm divers come in stainless steel, but it also makes the dial colors pop even more, since they’re the center of attention. Is it even summer if you go the whole thing without some cotton candy? If the sugary-sweet treat isn’t for you, then you can get your fix in watch form with this trio of cotton candy divers from Oris. Originally encased in bronze, this fun and colorful trio of Divers Sixty-Fives were certainly unique, but the patina-heavy cases may not have been for everyone. Not only does this new release of 38mm divers come in stainless steel, but it also makes the dial colors pop even more, since they’re the center of attention. The post Now in the Shop: A Trio of Oris Cotton Candy Flavors, Now in Steel appeared first on Worn & Wound.

The Avoirdupois Force Majeure is engineered and manufactured in Manhattan with an in-house movement entirely made in the USA Time+Tide
Jul 25, 2023

The Avoirdupois Force Majeure is engineered and manufactured in Manhattan with an in-house movement entirely made in the USA

Avoirdupois is a furniture and lighting company based in NYC The Avoirdupois Force Majeure is a 550-piece limited edition engineered and manufactured in Manhattan The integrated ultra-thin steel watch has an in-house calibre comprised of only domestic parts right down to the hairspring Some collectors get hung up about Swiss made. But, we have long … ContinuedThe post The Avoirdupois Force Majeure is engineered and manufactured in Manhattan with an in-house movement entirely made in the USA appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bulova Relaunches the Jet Star, with their High Frequency Precisionist Movement, in Three Striking Dial Variants Worn & Wound
Bulova Relaunches Jul 20, 2023

Bulova Relaunches the Jet Star, with their High Frequency Precisionist Movement, in Three Striking Dial Variants

Good design always comes back in cycles. Whether it’s the revival of midcentury furniture or Neoclassical architecture, there’s an undeniable truth when it comes to design: if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.  Watch brands are surprisingly good at acknowledging – even celebrating – past designs, only making small updates for better performance or tweaking the finer details to refine the overall product. Bulova’s release of their reimagined Jet Star is one such example of this. Taking inspiration from the archival 1970’s Jet Star, the new Bulova 1973 Jet Star has made incremental updates to the overall design, preserving what works and making small improvements along the way. The stainless steel case remains as angular and interesting to the eye as the original, but has since been updated with a trio of colorways for a variety of options. Customers can now choose between a sporty steel timepiece with red and blue accents, a gold-toned Jet Star with rich brown and gold tones, or a not-so-subtle red and steel model. While the aesthetic of the watch could be right out of the 70’s, the internals of this watch are anything but retro. Utilizing a Precisionist movement, this quartz caliber vibrates at a remarkable 262kHz, making for a gorgeously smooth second hand that sweeps across the dial, similar to a mechanical watch. This unparalleled accuracy punches well above the weight class and price point of the Jet Star. Each of the three references in this collection ...

Linde Werdelin Debuts a New Oktopus with a Bold Moon Phase Complication and Stark Contrasts Worn & Wound
Linde Werdelin Jul 19, 2023

Linde Werdelin Debuts a New Oktopus with a Bold Moon Phase Complication and Stark Contrasts

Last time we brought you news of a Linde Werdelin Oktopus, it was to highlight a limited edition project with Black Badger that took what can only be described as a maximalist approach to luminescent material. As a bonkers expression of independence and personal style, I’ve always been a fan of this type of watch, and Linde Werdelin in particular does a nice job of doing exactly their own thing (and maybe picking some well thought out collaborators along the way). The latest Oktopus, a nearly monochromatic expression of the Oktopus Moon with a case made from a space age carbon material, is an under the radar statement piece for a very specific type of watch nerd that finds big, bold sports watches from the usual suspects just a little too middle of the road.  The Oktopus Moon 3DTP White Black Ink starts with the case, specifically the material, which is a three dimensional, thin ply carbon (3D, TP, naturally). Linde Werdelin says this material differs from other carbon composite materials or forged carbon in that it uses a technique of layering ultra thin layers of carbon atop one another to achieve the desired strength while remaining very light weight. This technique apparently also allows for maximum design flexibility, and lets Linde Werdelin do its thing with the case shape of the Oktopus, which is a complex 8-sided structure with broad facets at the top of the case, adjacent to the bezel. We’ve seen a lot of highly angular, sculptural, integrated bracelet sports...

Greubel Forsey Plans Major Manufacture Expansion SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Plans Major Manufacture Expansion Jul 10, 2023

Greubel Forsey Plans Major Manufacture Expansion

Greubel Forsey has revealed plans for a significant expansion of its manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Set to nearly triple the current size of the distinctive, sloping building, the CHF20 million project signals a broader strategic move for the brand as it seeks a larger share of the high-end sports watch sector. The expansion, scheduled to commence next year, will not only increase Greubel Forsey’s research and development capacity and provide additional amenities for guests and staff, but it will also enable the brand to increase production. This move aligns with the brand’s recent shift from producing mainly complex tourbillon watches to introducing simpler, sportier watches that target the segment dominated by Richard Mille. In addition to the expansion, the brand is poised to launch its eighth “Fundamental Invention” this year.  Nearly tripling in size The manufacture expansion is a key pillar of chief executive Antonio Calce’s ten-year vision for growing the brand and professionalising its operations. According to Mr Calce, the expansion will enable Greubel Forsey to pursue “ever greater creativity and excellence in hand finishing.” Antonio Calce The planned expansion of the manufacture is ambitious; the floorplan is set to nearly triple in size, from 2,000 m2 to 5,460 m2. Fortunately, the expansion will not alter the current building’s recognisable architecture of a glass box rising out of the grass. Instead, the expansion will build on and around...

Celebrating 50 Years of Being Fashionably On Time with the Citizen Promaster Tsuno Chrono Worn & Wound
Citizen Promaster Tsuno Chrono Back Jul 6, 2023

Celebrating 50 Years of Being Fashionably On Time with the Citizen Promaster Tsuno Chrono

Back in January of 1973, Citizen, a pioneering Japanese watchmaking house, released a unique riff on a watch that they’d launched only a few months earlier. The watch was their very first mechanical chronograph. This version had the chronograph pushers situated at the top of the case, rather than on the side, in what’s affectionately referred to as a bullhead configuration called the Citizen Challenge Timer. Fans would soon nickname the “Tsuno Chrono” and its instantly recognizable 70s tones and panda dial layout would make this particular variant a legend. Fast forward to August 1, 2019, when a young watch journalist, and co-founder of a particular watch enthusiast publication, would rush home from a movie theater to research a timepiece he’d seen on screen. Zach Weiss had just finished viewing Quentin Tarantino’s critically acclaimed ninth film, Once Upon a Time … In Hollywood. Here’s an excerpt from the article he penned and published immediately thereafter. The film went on to be nominated for a total of ten Academy Awards at the 2020 Oscars and won two including Best Supporting Actor for Brad Pitt, which further cemented his role and this watch into absolute icon status. Despite a blatant continuity error, it’s clear that this was not a miscasting. It was still the right watch, on the right wrist, in the right role, at the right time. Now, 50 years later from the introduction of the original Tsuno Chrono, Citizen has reimagined the concept, form fact...

Highlights: Sotheby’s Hong Kong Fine Watches Online SJX Watches
Patek Philippe complications Jul 5, 2023

Highlights: Sotheby’s Hong Kong Fine Watches Online

The summer tends to be a quiet period in the watch world since most of Switzerland goes on holiday. However, Sotheby’s Hong Kong is staging one major event before the summer lull with an online sale running for just over a week. Fine Watches opens on July 5th and runs until the 14th featuring 272 lots ranging from Patek Philippe complications to simple time-only Cartier. We cover highlights from the sale below – the catalogue can be seen here – but before that we look at something special. Happening alongside the online auction is a sealed auction for an Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 5002P-013 with a custom-order black dial that runs online from July 13-21. The ref. 5002P once held the title of most complicated wristwatch Patek Philippe ever produced and remains a landmark in Patek Philippe watchmaking. Not only is this ref. 5002P possibly unique thanks to the striking black dial, it is also double sealed – in other words brand new. Since 2017 Patek Philippe has banned its retailers from selling sealed watches and so an double-sealed example of a special-order grand complication on the secondary market is rare. This double-dial complication offers an incredible opportunity to collectors, since the last time we saw this a sealed example of this reference at auction was back in 2018 at Antiquorum where it sold for just under US$1.2 million, and that was just single sealed. Prices have naturally climbed since then. In fact, this example mirrors the one that ...

Oris Unveils the Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy in Steel (Yes, it’s 38mm, and No, it’s Not Limited) Worn & Wound
Oris Unveils Jun 27, 2023

Oris Unveils the Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy in Steel (Yes, it’s 38mm, and No, it’s Not Limited)

Just over two years ago, Oris came out with a series of watches with a bronze case and a confectionary dial. At the time, the interplay of the pastel-colored watches against such a warm-toned metal was an instant hit for many in the watch world. It was only a matter of time before the Swiss brand would be revisiting the Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy collection and improving upon it. Today, Oris has launched the much-anticipated follow-up to their 2021 collection with a new set of pieces, this time set in steel. The three colorways of this collection are a charming trio of blue, green, and pink. Still maintaining the candy-like quality of the previous iteration, the steel will definitely have a wider fanbase that, perhaps, couldn’t be sold on the bronze just yet. Keeping the integrity of the Divers Sixty-Five retro design, the new Cotton Candy collection’s steel case enhances the mod design that’s at once retro and modern. The steel case comes in at a friendly 38mm, the first time the Divers Sixty-Five has been available in this metal at this size in a non-limited edition, which is sure to please many. The easy to wear size makes it great for both men and women who might find the pop of color exciting. Wearers can choose between a steel bracelet or a perlon strap that matches the watch’s dial, giving one the opportunity to keep it subtle or a bit more flamboyant.  The details of this watch really showcase the amount of thoughtfulness that has gone into the design ...

Our favourite Nomos watches of all time Time+Tide
Nomos watches Jun 14, 2023

Our favourite Nomos watches of all time

Considering that Nomos only released their first watches a little over 30 years ago, they have made a considerably strong impact on the watch world. While perfecting a style of minimalism that’s deliberate rather than lazy, the Bauhaus inspiration and high-end German manufacturing have helped their reputation soar among both large collectors and casual enthusiasts. … ContinuedThe post Our favourite Nomos watches of all time appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Ref. 5330G-010 Tokyo 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 10, 2023

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Ref. 5330G-010 Tokyo 2023

Having just opened the doors of the Watch Art Grand Grand Exhibition in Tokyo, Patek Philippe also revealed the special editions created for the event, including the World Time Limited Edition Tokyo 2023 ref. 5330G-10. Limited to 300 watches available only in Japan, the ref. 5330G-010 is the brand’s first world time with a date display. It features a guilloche dial in purple, the thematic hue of the exhibition, along with subtle references to Japan on the dial. Initial thoughts While the ref. 5330G-010 is not the flagship complication of the Watch Art Tokyo 2023 event – that title is claimed by the ref. 5308P Quadruple Complication – the new World Time is quintessential Patek Philippe. For one, the world time complication, though not invented by Patek Philippe, is strongly associated with the brand. At the same time, the date display is both practical and incorporated in an elegant manner, while the mechanics behind the date are sophisticated and thin as is typical of the brand’s approach to movements. Also in its favour are the discreet and tasteful references to Japan on the dial. But while the plum dial is striking and rich, the colour might not be for everyone. But putting aside the colour, the ref. 5330G-010 is an appealing watch. It is limited to just 300 pieces sold only in Japan, which makes availability at retail non-existent for most, but fortunately the ref. 5330 will almost certainly make it into the catalogue as a regular production model, as past exhi...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Citizen to open new NYC flagship, JLC announces Golden Ratio Music Show Time+Tide
Frederique Constant ContinuedThe post FRIDAY Jun 2, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Citizen to open new NYC flagship, JLC announces Golden Ratio Music Show

Just ahead of the weekend, two brands have announced some exciting news! Citizen to open multi-brand flagship in New York City Some people hear the Citizen name, and think solely of the brand. But Citizen, or the Citizen Watch Group, is actually a multi-brand conglomerate that not only includes Citizen, but also Alpina, Frederique Constant, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Citizen to open new NYC flagship, JLC announces Golden Ratio Music Show appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Isotope Celebrates their Seventh Anniversary with a New Logo and a Limited Edition Collaboration with Seconde/Seconde/ Worn & Wound
Isotope Celebrates their Seventh Anniversary Jun 1, 2023

Isotope Celebrates their Seventh Anniversary with a New Logo and a Limited Edition Collaboration with Seconde/Seconde/

Isotope has unveiled a new limited edition, made in collaboration with Seconde/Seconde/ to celebrate the former’s seventh anniversary. I’ve become a pretty big fan of the Isotope design language over the years – brand founder José Miranda has a good eye for color, and is one of only a handful in the industry who dares to inject a bit of humor into his watch designs. Seconde/Seconde/, of course, is all about the jokes, so when I heard there was a collaboration in the works, I was pretty excited to see what would come of it. The end result, the Hydrium Seconde/Seconde/, is surprisingly subtle, but better for it.  The high level brief here is “a Memento Mori watch, without a skull.” That, in and of itself, is kind of funny, at least if you’ve been tracking recent watches that take the Memento Mori as design inspiration. Why a death obsessed watch for a seven year anniversary? Isotope has retired their old logo, and just like life itself, the end of a logo is inevitable. The new logo takes the focus from Isotope’s “i” hand and shifts it toward the lacrima, the tear shape that has become a defining characteristic of the design of every watch they’ve made. The new logo is bolder and more sophisticated to my eye, so yeah, good riddance to the old. A fresh start never hurt anyone.  The design itself makes a few small changes to the familiar Hydrium dive watch platform. The (new) logo now reads “OTOPSIE” (autopsy) rather than “ISOTOPE,” with arrows sh...

How time shaped the Type 20 chronograph, and the brands that keep the legend alive Time+Tide
May 31, 2023

How time shaped the Type 20 chronograph, and the brands that keep the legend alive

Watches and military history have an unbreakable bond. You only need to think back to the very beginnings of the wristwatch as a tool. During the Anglo-Burma War and First Boer War, soldiers began to strap pocket watch cases with primitive soldered lugs to their wrists, which opened the door for a new market. Fast-forward … ContinuedThe post How time shaped the Type 20 chronograph, and the brands that keep the legend alive appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Halios is Back with a New Limited Edition Made in Collaboration with Topper Jewelers Worn & Wound
Halios May 26, 2023

Halios is Back with a New Limited Edition Made in Collaboration with Topper Jewelers

Halios, Jason Lim’s microbrand that has developed a rabid following over the years, only increasing as new releases have slowed, is releasing a new watch today in a collaboration with Topper Jewelers out of Burlingame, CA. It’s a new Universa, but it incorporates dial elements typically found in the Seaforth, the watch that is in many ways the brand’s calling card. In that sense, it’s a bit of a hybrid, combining several elements of Jason’s design language that have endured over the years.  The Universa has a 38mm stainless steel case that is mostly brushed, but has a classic polished chamfer along the lugs. It has a sculpted, almost architectural feel to it, with wide facets and gentle curves. The bezel-less design gives the watch an old-school, no nonsense sports watch vibe, and it certainly wouldn’t be crazy to note that the watch takes plenty of inspiration from classic tool watches.  It’s the dial, though, that makes this Universa special. It’s a crisp white with hands and hour markers that have been accented in black for maximum contrast. The layout is taken directly from the Seaforth, and includes the same thick, applied hour markers that give the dial an increased sense of depth. Hash marks on the minute scale alternate between blue, yellow, and green, representing natural elements found near Topper’s headquarters in Burlingame (the ocean, northern California sunshine, and giant redwood trees).   Speaking to the intensity of Halios’ followin...

Highlights: A. Lange & Söhne at Phillips’ Hong Kong SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne May 19, 2023

Highlights: A. Lange & Söhne at Phillips’ Hong Kong

Having seen covered the best of independent watchmaking as well as notable complications and artisanal timepieces in Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVI, we turn to highlights from one brand: A. Lange & Söhne. Long a brand somewhat under the radar and appreciated only by enthusiasts, Lange started to pick up in desirability over the last three years, resulting in record prices at auction for rare or sought-after models. Consequently, Lange offerings at auctions in general have risen in quantity – but also quality with more and more unusual timepieces coming to market. The Phillips catalogue includes 16 Lange wristwatches and we pick out some of the best, including the 1815 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst to an unusual Little Lange 1 Soirée with a bezel set with pink sapphires. Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be found here. The 1815 Tourbillon Handwerkunst Lot 817: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk (first generation) Now discontinued in favour of the updated version, the original Zeitwerk is arguably one of Lange’s most important watches. It remains one of the few digital-display watches even over a decade after its launch in 2009 – and is probably the most mechanically robust and reliable.  This example is in white gold with a black dial, a high-contrast combination that made it the bestselling iteration of the first-generation models. It was the only version with a dark-colour dial; the other versions, namely yellow gold, pink gold, and platinum, ...

First 2023 Rolex novelties hit the secondary market – where does the new GMT Master II sit? Time+Tide
Rolex novelties hit May 14, 2023

First 2023 Rolex novelties hit the secondary market – where does the new GMT Master II sit?

No matter how exquisite the finishing, how innovative the escapement, or how beautiful the colour of the dial, unfortunately these days the worth of a watch can be far more literal in the eyes of the broader marketplace. Outside of the scope of die-hard watch geekdom, a watch is only alluring as its value on … ContinuedThe post First 2023 Rolex novelties hit the secondary market – where does the new GMT Master II sit? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

You paid how much?? Five watches that look cheaper than they are Time+Tide
May 12, 2023

You paid how much?? Five watches that look cheaper than they are

In modern times, the words “stealth wealth” get thrown around a lot. Usually reserved for sophisticated watches often made of white metals like platinum, the idea is that your watch only hints at its true value. On the completely opposite end of the spectrum, there are those cheap watches that do everything they can to … ContinuedThe post You paid how much?? Five watches that look cheaper than they are appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Serica Bolsters the 5303 COSC Antimagnetic Diving Chronometer from Within Worn & Wound
Serica Bolsters Apr 26, 2023

Serica Bolsters the 5303 COSC Antimagnetic Diving Chronometer from Within

Although Serica has only been around since 2019, it feels like the young watch brand has been around for ages. In my opinion, a lot of that has to do with the maturity in which they conduct themselves, both in brand presence and progression. With any Serica novelty, you can bet that their approach to any watch design is performed with metronomic consistency – typically with minimal branding, steady visual cues, and a general inspiration by way of vintage military timepieces. It seems that any change that’s going to be made within each reference will be incremental, but that doesn’t mean the impact can be monumental. Such is the case with the new and improved Serica 5303 COSC Antimagnetic Diver Chronometer. To understand the latest update to the Serica 5303, we must look within. Serica has opted to keep the movement within the Soprod family, but instead of using the previous Newton P092 automatic, the Serica 5303 COSC now draws its power from the Caliber M100. The Soprod Caliber M100 is buoyed by a glucydur balance, incabloc shock system, a 42 hour power reserve, and most importantly, a 3.2mm movement thickness. With approximately 1.4mm of extra room to play using the transitional movement inside of the 5303 COSC case, Serica has built in several antimagnetic pieces including a soft iron movement holder, soft iron dial and a soft iron inner caseback. As a result, the magnetic resistance for the Serica 5303 COSC diver has skyrocketed from the traditional Swiss standard...

The Autodromo Group B Welcomes All-New Rallysport Chronograph Worn & Wound
Apr 11, 2023

The Autodromo Group B Welcomes All-New Rallysport Chronograph

The Autodromo Group B is something of a modern legend around here. It’s a watch that works on every level, from concept to execution, and it remains one of the most compelling micro-brand/small independent offerings even now, 8 years after its initial release (particularly in Night Stage form, if you ask me). The Group B has always been a time-only three-hander, but that changes this week with the introduction of a new kind of Group B, a manually wound chronograph kind of Group B. Released in a range of five unique colorways exclusively through the Hodinkee Shop, the new watches are as bright and vivacious as the cars that inspired them.  The Group B takes inspiration, and indeed its name, from the short lived racing series from the ‘80s, which birthed some of the all-time great racing cars and their homologated road cars. The new Group B Chronograph watches reflect details and colors seen in and on the cars of that era, bringing bright hits of primary colors to the dials and hands that feel authentic to the subject matter without betraying anything too specific. Because of that, these watches should land pretty well even for folks unfamiliar with, or uninterested in, the racing tie in. There’s even a Hodinkee specific colorway, the H01, that applies subtle shades of green for a more subdued look. One of the many things that make time-only Group B so great are its impeccable dimensions. The 39mm titanium and steel case measures 39mm in diameter, and a scant 9mm in t...

IWC’s Pilot’s Chronograph 41 Finally Gets a Ceramic Case Worn & Wound
IWC s Pilot’s Chronograph 41 Apr 11, 2023

IWC’s Pilot’s Chronograph 41 Finally Gets a Ceramic Case

In the midst of what can only be described as Ingenieur Mania at Watches & Wonders a few weeks ago, IWC quietly unveiled a pair of watches in their Pilot collection that would have certainly been the headline grabbing highlights in almost any other year. It’s interesting in terms of strategy (they clearly wanted to focus heavily on the new Ingenieur, a watch that has been long requested by collectors and clearly represents years of fine tuning) and because, well, the new Pilot’s Chronographs on display were kind of awesome, and show that even in an off year, IWC is completely committed to maintaining their King of the Pilot Watch status.  What we have here are two 41mm Pilot’s Chronographs in ceramic, which represents the first time the brand has gone ceramic in this particular size. You’ll recall that last year the marquee releases were two colored ceramic Pilot’s Chronos (in “Tahoe” white and “Woodland” green), but both were in a somewhat unwieldy 44.5mm case. The 41mm size was introduced in steel in 2021, a welcome downsize from the 43mm case IWC had been using immediately prior, and has since seen versions in titanium and Ceratanium. IWC has demonstrated a fondness for variety when it comes to materials, so it was only a matter of time before the smaller pilot chrono got the ceramic treatment.  First up, the Pilot’s Chronograph in “Oceana,” a shade of blue developed with Pantone, and inspired by the color of overalls worn by members of the Uni...

Oris Adds Some Bling to the Aquis: Hands-On with the New Aquis Date Diamonds Worn & Wound
Oris Adds Some Bling Apr 11, 2023

Oris Adds Some Bling to the Aquis: Hands-On with the New Aquis Date Diamonds

At this point, I think we all have a fairly solid understanding of the appeal of a gold watch. The heft, the rarity, and the luster of gold all appeal to our reptile brains in ways that are almost innate. Zach Weiss broke it down here back in 2021, and in the nearly two years since that article was conceived, we’ve only grown more gold-curious as a team. But as much as we talk about a growing appreciation for gold, there’s another tangentially related segment of watchmaking that doesn’t get nearly the same level of attention, at least from enthusiasts. But a new watch from Oris made me rethink my relationship to these watches.  No, I’m not talking about watches with Muppet-clad date displays. I’m talking about diamonds, an entirely different level of opulence. In a modern context, watches that have been set with diamonds most frequently fall into one of two categories: watches marketed exclusively toward women, or the completely iced out custom jobs that you sometimes see on red carpets, music videos, and in New York City’s diamond district. With the new Aquis Date Diamonds, Oris is asking us to rethink the stone by incorporating them into a watch that’s truly sporty, and also by making them accessible.  Oris goes about this by using lab-grown, as opposed to mined, diamonds. Lab-grown diamonds have increased in popularity in recent years as manufacturing techniques have gotten better and better, delivering stones that are identical optically and chemically ...

The BA111OD CHPTR_Δ is hypocycloidal genius personified Time+Tide
Apr 2, 2023

The BA111OD CHPTR_Δ is hypocycloidal genius personified

The new BA111OD CHPTR_Δ introduces hypocycloidal time-telling. Olivier Mory, who built the cheapest Swiss-made tourbillon, was involved with the in-house BA111LOD 09310 module. For only US$2,620, it’s an incredible value proposition for a technical Swiss luxury watch. BA111OD have only been around since 2019, but there seems to be no limit to their ambition of … ContinuedThe post The BA111OD CHPTR_Δ is hypocycloidal genius personified appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is an ultra-thin, luxe take on a sporty proposition Time+Tide
Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS Mar 27, 2023

The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is an ultra-thin, luxe take on a sporty proposition

The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS honours the Alps further with a Monte Rosa inspired dial. The calibre L.U.C 96.40-L is only 3.3mm thick, with the watch totalling 8mm. It’s also the second of Chopard’s movements to be granted a Geneva Seal, the first being the Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon. If you want to see … ContinuedThe post The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is an ultra-thin, luxe take on a sporty proposition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.