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Revolution
Wei has the pleasure of sitting down with Antoine Pin, the Managing Director of Bvlgari, in an exclusive interview as we enter into the enchanting world of the Bvlgari’s Only Watch 2023 entrant. The watch in question is the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon watch in marble is a testament to the extraordinary craftsmanship achieved by Bvlgari. The […]
SJX Watches
A homage to famed Monaco “Dark Lord”, the TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco is unique for utilising carbon, or more specifically carbon composites, in almost every aspect of the watch – dial, case, and even the hairspring is carbon. Plus it has a specially finished movement that’s visible through the an extra-wide sapphire case back. Initial thoughts The vintage “Dark Lord” is all-black version of the Monaco that’s one of the most desirable of vintage Heuers. It was something of an experimental creation with only a few dozen were made, or perhaps even a hundred depending on the source. One of the first all-black watches, the “Dark Lord” had a powder-coated case like many early black-coated watches. Consequently, the “Dark Lord” case was fragile and few have survived in pristine condition, explaining its rarity and value, as well as why it’s the inspiration for the Carbon Monaco. A vintage “Dark Lord” ref. 740.303N The pleasing black, orange, and cream palette of the Carbon Monaco instantly evoke the “Dark Lord”. And at a distance, the Carbon Monaco even has something of a vintage flavour. But up close it is evidently a modern watch in both style and substance. Unlike the “Dark Lord”, the Carbon Monaco is fabricated from a material that’s naturally black, or at least a dark grey. The carbon composite case has an indelible finish, while also being extremely lightweight. The modern material, along with the geometrically open-worked ...
Quill & Pad
Breguet has a stronger legacy than nearly any other brand and is strongest in Joshua Munchow's opinion when it drifts more toward heritage than trends. A great example of this is the Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021, a historically inspired version that does away with the aspects Joshua isn't a fan of in the current Type XX/XXI collection. And its auction price will be fully donated for a great cause.
SJX Watches
Long the record holder for the most valuable watch at the biennial Only Watch charity auction, Patek Philippe has probably outdone itself this year. For Only Watch 2019, it’s put together a unique version of the most complicated wristwatch it’s ever made, the Grandmaster Chime ‘Only Watch’ ref. 6300A-010 in stainless steel. Now in its 14th year, Only Watch is an auction of one-off timepieces donated by brands, with proceeds going to support medical research. Patek Philippe has claimed the title of the top lot in nearly all Only Watch auctions, including the most recent in 2017 that saw a Patek Philippe ref. 5208T in titanium sell for 6.2 Swiss francs. And in the auction before that, in 2015, the Patek Philippe ref. 5016A in steel sold for 7.3m Swiss francs. But the steel Grandmaster Chime for Only Watch this year will probably exceed those results, albeit by a margin that’s hard to predict. The buyer of “The Only One” will be the special one By most metrics it’s the ultimate watch – not only is it the most complicated wristwatch ever made by Patek Philippe, it is also the most expensive timepiece in the current Patek Philippe catalogue. And then there’s the style of the watch, which is catered exactly to current tastes. In fact, the elements of the watch are so perfectly suited to today’s fads in watch collecting that it might be a clever and discreet in-joke – a bit of humour from the serious Geneva watchmaker. The size and complexity of the Gr...
Time+Tide
The other week, Nick showed us some of the highlight pieces from the upcoming Only Watch auction. There was a bunch of spicy pieces destined for charity greatness, but one watch kept drawing my attention - the Louis Vuitton Spin Time. There are a few reasons why this watch stands out. Sure, there’s diamonds (3.33 … ContinuedThe post The detail is in the dial for Louis Vuitton’s Only Watch entry appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Twenty-five years after disrupting the watch industry with the original Freak, the experimental horological vision of Rolf Schnyder and Ludwig Oechslin, Ulysse Nardin continues to evolve the Freak's legacy. The latest...
Deployant
The very colourful piece unique Hublot Classic Fusion Only Watch Britto has been donated by Hublot for the 2015 Only Watch Auction
Revolution
The Only Watch-auction, held every two years in Monaco to support the fight against Duchenne muscular dystrophy, is high on every watch collector and -connoisseurs agenda. Besides an opportunity to do good, it is also an opportunity to obtain a piece unique by some of the most famous brands. For many of these brands donating […]
Time+Tide
Jason Lee argues that across most situations, a watch with an animal‑skin strap is rarely the smartest default.The post Why a watch with an animal‑skin strap shouldn’t be your only watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
While the most valuable lot at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction will likely be the Breguet Sympathique clock no. 1, the sale also includes a few unexpected and interesting lots. One standout is the Louis Vuitton Escale Spin Time “Only Watch”, a unique piece created for the Only Watch charity auction in 2019. Consigned by the original owner – who is a prominent collector whom I greatly respect – the Spin Time is a flamboyant, gem-set take on Louis Vuitton’s signature complication. The centrepiece is a miniature enamel dial by Anita Porchet depicting a motif inspired by tattoo art. This unique Spin Time originally sold for CHF280,000 at Only Watch 2019. Now carrying an estimate of CHF40,000-80,000, the watch will go on the block at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction taking place on May 10, 2025. Initial thoughts I was a fan of this Spin Time when it was first revealed in 2019. In fact, I bid on it at Only Watch, but I was laughably uncompetitive and far from the CHF280,000 hammer. In contrast to the latest generation of Spin Time that is both refined and discreet, this watch is over the top and I like it because of that. The aesthetic is a lot, maybe too much, but it works. Most importantly, the watch is not just about extravagant styling. The dial is the work of Anita Porchet herself, combining both miniature painting and champleve. Certainly the motif is not for everyone, but the quality of craft is unmistakeable. A rose among the thorns This unique Spin Time...
Time+Tide
Small indies achieved spectacular results at the Only Watch charity auction this year, with Furlan Marri a particular standout.The post Why independent brands were the big winners of Only Watch 2024 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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SJX Watches
A longer-than-usual Geneva auction weekend just concluded, having started with Only Watch 2024 and concluded with Christie’s watch sale – both of which were postponed for different reasons. Only Watch set the tone for the rest of the sales. The appetite for buying was muted. Most watches performed as expected: desirable brands and watches did well, though not as well as they would have in 2022 or early 2023. A handful of watches were outliers and performed spectacularly. That said, there were more watches that sold poorly compared to either of the last two instalments. In sum, it was a reflection of the overall market for collectible watches. A night-time cyberattack On a sunny Friday morning in Geneva, just before Only Watch was scheduled to take place in the afternoon, it emerged that Christie’s had suffered a company-wide cyberattack that brought down its website, app, and everything else digital. According to a Christie’s representative, the cyberattack began in the early hours of Friday last week, which was fortunately daytime in Asia, so its Hong Kong office was able to respond. Even though the hack took place just before the watch and jewellery auctions in Geneva, the cyberattack was probably timed to take place before the following week of art sales in New York, where Christie’s will sell over US$800 million of art. Tess Pettavino making the opening speech. Image – Only Watch A colourful event Because of the cyberattack, Christie’s postponed its watch...
SJX Watches
An ambitious evolution of its signature square-cased chronograph, the Monaco Split-Seconds was first revealed as a unique piece for Only Watch. Although the regular production version was launched earlier this year, the one-off example made for Only Watch remains unique for the finishing on the case and movement. Initial thoughts Powered by a sophisticated Vaucher calibre, the Monaco rattrapante is mostly made of titanium – the alloy is used for the case and movement – and a deft evolution of the Monaco case. On the wrist, the watch feels good as it is noticeably lightweight despite being quite large. The case design is evidently derived from the original but smartly reworked to give it a more pronounced, stylised form. Details like the facetted sapphire crystals and oversized pushers complement the styling. Overall, the aesthetic is the hyper-mechanical look of the same school as Richard Mille and Hublot, but here executed to a high level thanks to the Vaucher calibre that’s hand finished. The only element of the design I would do away with is the “X” bridge on the dial, which feels like an affectation that doesn’t really do much for the design. But overall the aesthetic is cohesive and appealing. Importantly, the watch acquits itself well up close. The finishing on the titanium bridges and plates of the movement is particularly impressively, given the difficulty of achieving a mirror polish on the alloy. And because the Vaucher calibre is a high-end construct...
Time+Tide
The biannual charity sale always brings a lot of heat in terms of one-off special edition models - here are our favourites.The post Only Watch 2024: the Time+Tide team shares their favourite lots appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The two most important examples of independent watchmaking in Only Watch 2024 are arguably the stealthy F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu and the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique, each a significant creation of a leading watchmaker of his generation (and interesting enough, both are sports watches). Inspired by mid-20th century explorer’s watches that were magnetism-resistant, the Chronomètre Antimagnétique (RRCA) is an elegant but robust watch with a stainless steel case and an entirely new calibre equipped with an indirectly-driven centre seconds with a hacking, zero-reset mechanism. In its Only Watch form, the RRCA is a unique watch but also a prototype for a new line of elegant sports watches. NB: The watch pictured is a work in progress that is not entirely finished so the dial is a prototype and the movement is not perfectly clean. It will be delivered in a perfect state to the eventual owner. Initial thoughts Many of the RRCA’s details bring to mind mid-20th century “sports” watches. Not the sports watches we know of today, but rather the water-resistant Patek Philippe watches made in the 1940s and 1950s for gentlemen sportsmen and adventurers. This reflects with Rexhep Rexhepi’s respect for traditional Geneva watchmaking, which is also expressed in the RRCC but in a different manner. The RRCA subtly marks a new direction for Rexhep Rexhepi’s aesthetics. It’s clearly a thoughtful evolution of the RRCC. While the RRCC is a dress watch, ...
SJX Watches
The surprising, and to some shocking, Louis Vuitton Tambour Einstein Automata created for Only Watch 2024 is over the top in both aesthetics and complexity. Based on the brand’s automata wristwatch that’s available either as a Chinese mask or vanitas skull, the Einstein Automata has the air of a mad scientist’s creation. Depressing the pusher at two o’clock starts the automata, which also serve to tell the time with a jumping hours display in Einstein’s forehead and the minutes indicated by the atom symbol pointer at eight o’clock. Made in-house at its Geneva manufacture of La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the watch illustrates Louis Vuitton’s impressive matchmaking capabilities, while also bringing to mind the extravagant, casual style of its streetwear. Initial thoughts When I first saw images of the Einstein Automata, I knew I had to see it in person. And in the metal the watch certainly lives up to expectations, it is bizarre, impressive, and wearable, all at the same time. It is bizarre because Einstein is accurately portrayed – the likeness is done well – yet rendered in alien colours of pale blue and silver. It’s impressive because the dial is enamelled and engraved in-house while the movement is exceptionally complex. And it’s wearable despite being a very large watch because the case is in stainless steel, unlike its regular production counterparts that are in gold. Do I like it? I do. But I can imagine a lot of people won’t and I can understand...
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SJX Watches
Possibly the successor to the Chronomètre Bleu, the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu is a unique creation made for Only Watch 2024 taking place on May 10, but also the template for a next generation of lineSport watches. The Furtif Bleu retains the familiar silhouette of the lineSport, but is executed entirely in tantalum – notably the bracelet is tantalum – with a fired enamel dial. Additionally, it is equipped with a new calibre that displays the power reserve and moon phase on the back. Initial thoughts Despite its name and low-key colours, the Furtif Bleu is a very striking watch, largely because of the contrast between the dark grey tantalum and the blue dial with an orange seconds hand. In the hand, it is heavy, as expected for the metal, and also silky in feel due to the finely blasted surfaces of the case and bracelet. Close your eyes and it feels like the current lineSport in platinum, though the blasted finish is finer than that on the existing gold and platinum models. And on the wrist, it is unexpectedly elegant for a sports watch because of its height, which is just 9.5 mm. That’s slightly thicker than the Chronomètre Bleu and noticeably thinner than the lineSport Automatique Reserve. One of the most notable aspects of the watch is the bracelet, which is entirely tantalum. The nature of the alloy makes it particularly difficult to work, explaining the cost and rarity of tantalum watch cases. Tantalum bracelets are even less common. The only other brand I can t...
Hodinkee
The delay in Only Watch changed Patek's plans and resulted in this gorgeous watch.
SJX Watches
Having announced its return with an auction on May 10, 2024, Only Watch has finally revealed the watch that everyone has been waiting for: the Patek Philippe Grande and Petite Sonnerie Ref. 6301A-010 “Only Watch”. Based on the standard version of Patek Philippe’s clockwatch – which is the second most complicated watch in the brand’s catalogue – the ref. 6301A has a stainless steel case like several past Only Watch editions and more unusually, a Rare Handcrafts hand guilloche dial covered with blue-green translucent fired enamel and 12 baguette-cut diamond indices. For the moment, the ref. 6301A is the only timepiece in Only Watch 2024 that is an entirely new creation, while the rest of the offerings are carried over from last year’s event (though word has it a prominent independent watchmaker might be making significant modifications to his creation). Initial thoughts Patek Philippe’s original creation for the what was originally Only Watch 2023 was a unique version of the Minute Repeater Alarm ref. 1938P. After that got postponed to May this year, Patek Philippe replaced its original contribution with the ref. 6301A. Though only the dial differs from the standard version in terms of visuals, the ref. 6301A is strikingly different. With its elaborate dial, it looks less formal and more decorative. Thought arguably less surprising than the ref. 1938P that was an entirely new reference and complication, the ref. 6301A is more complicated, expensive, and elabo...
Hodinkee
The team at Only Watch has completed a financial audit meant to ensure faith in the nonprofit, but a number of prominent brands are no longer participating.
SJX Watches
After having postponed itself in the wake of questions about its propriety and transparency, Only Watch has just announced its return, with the 10th instalment of the charity auction taking place on May 10, 2024. This happens after the organisation published its audited financial statements covering the last three years as well as revamping its governance. Majority of brands that were slated to take part in last year’s event are returning for the 2024 auction – 48 out of the 62 watches have remained – with the most notable departures being Audemars Piguet and Tudor. Crucially, the most significant brands will return for this year’s Only Watch, namely those who will contribute watches with six- or seven-figure values. The most important is naturally Patek Philippe, which is believe to have an all-new wristwatch in the works, and not the Minute Repeater Alarm ref. 1938P made for last year’s event. The Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A in steel that sold for CHF31 million in 2019, making the most valuable wristwatch ever sold at auction In addition, F.P. Journe, Rexhep Rexhepi, Richard Mille, as well as all LVMH brands, including Louis Vuitton, Hublot, TAG Heuer, Bulgari, and Zenith, are also participating. This means that the brands that matter in terms of value are still there. For example, just Patek Philippe and F.P. Journe alone should raise a healthy eight figure sum – with Patek Philippe accounting for at least US$15-25 million, or about two-third...
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Time+Tide
Earlier this week, after much conversation on horological social media, Only Watch announced that their biennial charity auction, which would have been held next month, has been postponed. The full press release from Only Watch on the postponement can be found here, but a key snippet of the announcement was: “A few days before the auction, … ContinuedThe post Only Watch postponed, and a week of ultra-light watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Today, the Association Monègasque les Myopathies (AMM) has decided to postpone what would have been the 10th instalment of Only Watch to 2024. Following questions on social media over the past couple of weeks, the foundation behind the charity auction has just released a statement outlining plans to push the event to next year, to allow it to take place in “in harmony with the community”. This news is coming despite a strong and public statement of support by François-Paul Journe declaring his “total confidence”, but also shortly after Audemars Piguet withdrew from the auction without any public statement as to why. The statement of support from François-Paul Journe The postponement is a regrettable move given the value of the initiative for medical research, but clearly one that founder Luc Pettavino and his team feel is necessary with just under two weeks until the auction was due to take place. Hopefully this delay will give its organisers time to quell the doubters on social media in recent days. With no set date yet announced, it is clear that this is a still a fluid situation and so we may see this auction take place early in the year, rather than during the fall as is tradition. However, it seems that those behind Only Watch take the concerns of the community seriously enough to ensure there is enough time to answer them all. We will be keeping you up to date as this story develops and more announcements are made. For the full statement from Only Watch, v...
SJX Watches
After a unnervingly long wait, Only Watch issued a detailed statement explaining its activities and financials in response to allegations on social media about financial improprieties. While some of the allegations were unfounded, some were useful questions that had to be asked. Fortunately, the statement by Only Watch is not only comprehensive but also promises more to come (once the audited statements are prepared by KPMG Monaco in response to a recently promulgated law in the principality where Only Watch is based). More is certainly needed, but for now the response from Only Watch will quiet reasonable observers. Initial thoughts When the accusations about wrongdoings at Only Watch first emerged on social media, I was sceptical because by and large I believe in Only Watch (I even bought one of the Only Watch timepieces several years ago, albeit an inexpensive one). That said, I could see why such questions came about. The event has become extremely high profile and its founder, Luc Pettavino, a celebrity seemingly dressed in over the top jackets all the time. This all unsurprisingly led to criticism. Still, the fundamental purpose of the auction felt like a genuine cause. I did think some of the questions raised on social media were germane. I expected a swift response from Only Watch, but that took what seemed like a long, long time. Now the reply has arrived and it contains sufficient information that I am reassured, as I think most observers will be. Amongst the not...
Time+Tide
We take a closer look at the Louis Vuitton Tambour Einstein Automata, the brand's entry into the 2023 edition of Only Watch.The post Louis Vuitton Tambour Einstein Automata Only Watch 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Held every two years, the Only Watch charity auction of exclusively unique pieces has grown into THE most anticipated watch auction worldwide and features some of the most creative and innovative horology on the planet. For the 2023 Only Watch auction, the theme is ‘Rainbow’. However, while there are an incredible 62 unique piece timekeepers on offer, only a fraction of them really ran with the rainbow theme. Ian Skellern shares his favorite rainbow watches from Only Watch 2023 here.
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