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Panda / Reverse Panda Dial

Chronograph dial with high-contrast sub-counters. Vintage Daytona, Speedmaster CK 2998, Heuer Carrera; modern 116500LN, Tudor Chrono.

Longines Introduces the Heritage Classic “Sector” Dial in Black SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Jun 15, 2021

Longines Introduces the Heritage Classic “Sector” Dial in Black

Back in 2019, Longines introduced the Heritage Classic, a remake of a 1934 watch with a “sector” dial. Combining a popular, retro style with an affordable price tag – we gave it a thumb-up in our review – the original Heritage Classic was a success. Now Longines has given the Heritage Classic a black dial, while keeping the rest of the formula the same. Initial thoughts Longines can’t be accused of being imaginative, but that’s perfectly fine as the brand’s forte, at least for watch enthusiasts, is its vintage remakes. In fact, the new Heritage Classic comes just months after the Avigation Bigeye in a new colourway was unveiled. Aside from the dial, the new Heritage Classic is identical to the 2019 model in every regard, so it has the same appeal as its predecessor, though I prefer the black dial over the silver. The 2019 Heritage Classic There’s an austerity to the dark dial that better fits the “sector” dial, which is occasionally known as a “scientific” dial. I already liked the clean and minimalist look before, and now its lines seem sharper in black. However, the black dial forgoes the heat-blued hands of the silver dial, which is a shame, but a necessity given the need for contrasting hands. Priced at US$2,150 on a leather strap and slightly more on a beads-of-rice bracelet, the new Heritage Classic also has the same price – a good thing since that the 2019 original was one of the best value propositions of the year. The new Heritage Cl...

Announcing the ‘Pink Dial Project’ – an auction of pink prototypes in aid of breast cancer Time+Tide
Jun 15, 2021

Announcing the ‘Pink Dial Project’ – an auction of pink prototypes in aid of breast cancer

The watch industry has always had a charitable streak, but never as conspicuously as it does today. Charity auctions have been a key part of the industry’s calendar for years, with the Only Watch Auction that raises money for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, earning headlines for the watches if offers and the money it contributes. Lately … ContinuedThe post Announcing the ‘Pink Dial Project’ – an auction of pink prototypes in aid of breast cancer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS ON: The Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection – Japanese dial mastery inspired by nature Time+Tide
Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection – Jun 11, 2021

HANDS ON: The Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection – Japanese dial mastery inspired by nature

As you might know, I am a bit of a dial fetishist, so when faced with a new limited collection from Grand Seiko, the risk is always there – that fear of repeating myself or getting so carried away that I overreach and baffle you with new adjectives that I’ve accidentally made up in an … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection – Japanese dial mastery inspired by nature appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection is a dial fetishist’s dream come true Time+Tide
Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection Jun 10, 2021

VIDEO: The Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection is a dial fetishist’s dream come true

The last release of the Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection provoked extreme jealousy all around the world. The reason for this is that it was only available in the USA, which seemed dreadfully unfair for the rest of us. Thankfully, the collection is now back and this time it’s available for all. Despite the prodigious … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection is a dial fetishist’s dream come true appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

KEF Elements Debuts with an Affordable Aventurine-Glass Dial SJX Watches
Zodiac constellation Initial thoughts Having May 31, 2021

KEF Elements Debuts with an Affordable Aventurine-Glass Dial

A Singaporean retailer that specialises in affordable, unconventional watches such as SevenFriday and Gorilla, Red Army Watches (RAW) now debuts its own label, KEF Elements. The brand’s maiden model is the Time & Space, a time-only wristwatch with an aventurine-glass dial bearing a glow-in-the-dark zodiac constellation. Initial thoughts Having known RAW founder Sugi Kusumadi for several years, I’ve come to admire Sugi’s passion for unusual timepieces. That’s been evident in past collaborations RAW has embarked on with a number of brands, most notably with Gorilla and Stowa. Its own brand feels like a natural next step for RAW. While the brand is brand new, KEF Elements is very much like many of the brands RAW carries, offering an intriguing aesthetic for relatively little money. Inspired by “the mystique and vastness of space”, the aventurine-glass dial lives up to the Time & Space moniker. Its sparkling surface and luminous constellation successfully evoke the cosmos. Aside from the aventurine dial, another striking aspect of the watch are the dozen dials on offer, each bearing one of the 12 zodiac constellations. An individual zodiac constellation at this price is an unusual proposition, so kudos to RAW. Celestial themes on aventurine glass have been done before, but they are usually accompanied by a hefty price tag, thus making the price of KEF Elements watch notable. With a current pre-order price of S$789, or a little bit under US$600, KEF Elements’ d...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Keris from Keaton Time Co. is a futuristic diver with a hypnotic dial Time+Tide
Boldr already making waves Keaton’s May 23, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The Keris from Keaton Time Co. is a futuristic diver with a hypnotic dial

Keaton Time Co. is another new brand from Singapore, that’s fast becoming a veritable hotbed of horological innovation with the likes of Zelos and BOLDR already making waves. Keaton’s debut watch Keris is unlike anything I’ve seen in a long time. You can forget about slim vintage, forget about creamy lume, hell, forget about the … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Keris from Keaton Time Co. is a futuristic diver with a hypnotic dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Longines Avigation BigEye Chronograph is a blue dial pilot’s watch with retro swagger Time+Tide
Longines Avigation BigEye Chronograph May 15, 2021

VIDEO: The Longines Avigation BigEye Chronograph is a blue dial pilot’s watch with retro swagger

We’ve seen a bit of a heritage binge in the watch industry with vintage-inspired timepieces becoming a dominant trend throughout the marketplace. You might think the end of this trend is on the horizon, but when you appreciate how deep some manufacturers’ archives are, you start to realise that the fun has only just begun. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Longines Avigation BigEye Chronograph is a blue dial pilot’s watch with retro swagger appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: An exclusive space odyssey with the Dial Artist x Bamford Cosmic Rainbow. Time+Tide
May 8, 2021

INTRODUCING: An exclusive space odyssey with the Dial Artist x Bamford Cosmic Rainbow.

The line between watch journalist and collector sometimes blurs. My interview with Chris Alexander (@thedialartist), a creative designer with a growing sideline in watch modification, inspired me to take urgent action. Chris’ abstract art that transforms dials from G-Shocks to Speedmasters, seriously struck a chord, eventually leading to this hot drop today. While researching his … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: An exclusive space odyssey with the Dial Artist x Bamford Cosmic Rainbow. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Green Dial SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces Apr 24, 2021

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Green Dial

Organised by the Automobile Club de Monaco (ACM), the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique is an annual classic-car race that traditionally takes place before the city’s Formula 1 Grand Prix. As the official timekeeper of the event, TAG Heuer is marking this year’s race with the Monaco Green Dial. A facelifted variant of its iconic square chronograph, the new Monaco features a gradient-green dial that’s a first for the Monaco, but an exceptionally common colour this year. Initial thoughts Arguably the iconic Heuer chronograph by virtue of its unmistakeable 1970s style, the Monaco was introduced in 1969 in honour of the Monaco Grand Prix. An unusual combination of a water-resistant, automatic chronograph with a square case, the Monaco remains the brand’s most recognisable timepiece. While the choice of a green dial may feel modish – dials in this shade seem endless this year even though it’s only April – it is nevertheless well executed. The smoked, metallic finish lends the watch a more nuanced look that separates it from most watches with a green dial. It might not be novel, but I’ve seen the new Monaco in the metal and it is one of the more attractive green dials that I’ve seen to date. While the remake of the original Monaco ref. 1133 “Steve McQueen” would be my pick from the Monaco lineup – I appreciate its historically-faithful design – the new Monaco in green is a great option for someone seeking a more contemporary watch that still possesse...

Breaking News: Rolex “Zenith” Daytona Platinum Discovered to Have Turquoise Stone Dial SJX Watches
Zenith Daytona Platinum Discovered Apr 21, 2021

Breaking News: Rolex “Zenith” Daytona Platinum Discovered to Have Turquoise Stone Dial

The headline lot at Sotheby’s upcoming Hong Kong watch auction, the Rolex “Zenith” Daytona in platinum is one of just five known. Already a million-dollar watch before, the Daytona just got that much more unusual with a fresh discovery: the dial is not a blue-lacquer “Stella” dial as previously believed, but it is actually turquoise mineral stone. According to Sam Hines, Sotheby’s head of watches, the discovery came about only recently when light fell on the watch just right, revealing a detail that was not obvious before: the sub-dials are of a slightly different colour and texture. So the dial and movement were removed from the platinum case for inspection. And a close look at the reverse of the dial revealed it to be mineral stone. “What appeared to be a classic ‘Stella’ dial is actually a natural hardstone turquoise dial with a lacquer coating on top,” explains Mr Hines, “The lacquer coating hides the natural grain that can normally be seen in any hardstone.” While a revelation, the mineral stone dial is an eminently logical feature. Only five platinum Daytonas with the Rolex cal. 4030 (based on the Zenith El Primero) were ever produced, reputedly at the behest of the late Patrick Heiniger, then the chief executive of Rolex. It is believed he gifted four examples to important business partners, and kept the final watch for himself. (One watch was gifted to a member of the family that owns a long-established Rolex store in Italy – we told the...

Cartier Introduces the Tank Must de Cartier in Steel SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Capitalizing Apr 7, 2021

Cartier Introduces the Tank Must de Cartier in Steel

The Cartier Tank is quite possibly the most iconic rectangular wristwatch, matched only in its longevity and enduring appeal by the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. Capitalizing on the popularity of the Tank, Cartier has reintroduced the Tank Must de Cartier name as an entire model family at Watches & Wonders 2021. Initial Thoughts The Tank Must de Cartier was born in 1977, in the throes of the quartz crisis. The Must de Cartier was the jeweler’s answer to the upheaval within the industry – it marked the first time the Tank was produced at an industrial scale and was also the first time the model was not produced in precious metal. The Tank Must de Cartier borrowed the shape of the Tank Louis Cartier – whereas the brancards of the 1917 original were flat, those of the Tank Louis Cartier are gently rounded. I am a fan of the new collection. Not only is the Must de Cartier probably the most recognizable of the Tank range, but the new watches are handsome and a surprisingly good value proposition. The new Tank Must de Cartier is a comprehensive family that is sure to become a bestseller – not only is there a model at every price point, from entry-level steel to more glitzy diamond-paved variants, but the models are also available in a dizzying number of sizes and movement configurations. Tank Must de Cartier The classic silver-dialed model with Roman numerals, railroad minutes track, and blued steel hands is available in steel in three sizes: small, large, and extra-large. ...

Studio Underd0g makes the world’s first ever watch with a dial made from eggplant Time+Tide
Studio Underd0g Mar 31, 2021

Studio Underd0g makes the world’s first ever watch with a dial made from eggplant

Sustainability, veganism and organic materials may be the way forward, but they’re still a foreign language to many of the larger players in the watch industry. But microbrand Studio Underd0g is displaying a more progressive mindset after making the world’s first ever watch with a dial made from eggplant skin. Just like a bespoke wristwatch, … ContinuedThe post Studio Underd0g makes the world’s first ever watch with a dial made from eggplant appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

De Bethune’s Ultra-Thin DB28XP Gets a Blued Meteorite Dial SJX Watches
De Bethune s Ultra-Thin DB28XP Gets Mar 17, 2021

De Bethune’s Ultra-Thin DB28XP Gets a Blued Meteorite Dial

Introduced to commemorate the 10th anniversary of De Bethune’s signature watch, the DB28XP is a pared-back, slimmer and more wearable take on the original model, though still instantly recognisable with its trademark pivoted lugs. Now De Bethune unveils the most exotic variant of the watch to date, the DB28XP Meteorite. It retains many of the elements the brand is known for, but the highlight is a brilliantly blued meteorite dial. Meteorite dials are common, even on inexpensive watches, but De Bethune’s meteorite is unlike any other in watchmaking. Though the material is just like any other meteorite, it has been heat-treated, creating a blue oxidisation that gives it a special blue sheen. Initial thoughts De Bethune is one of my favourite independent watchmakers – I love the Kind of Two Tourbillon from earlier in the year. Innovation is its raison d’etre, and the new DB28XP Meteorite exemplifies that, both technically and aesthetically. While heat-blued titanium is a De Bethune hallmark, heat-blued meteorite takes the look to a whole new level. The gold-studded “starry sky” dial captures the cosmos on the wrist. Though the look is very different, the DB28XP Meteorite has all of the wearability of the standard model. It has sprung, pivoted lugs that allow it to cling to the wrist, while also being more compact than the original, full-size DB28. The brand has previously utilised the blued meteorite in the Dream Watch 5 and Kind of Blue Meteorite – both sp...

INTRODUCING: The Oris Pro Pilot TLP Limited Edition soars with a distinctive olive green dial Time+Tide
Oris Pro Pilot TLP Limited Mar 9, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Oris Pro Pilot TLP Limited Edition soars with a distinctive olive green dial

The pilot’s watch category is one of the most popular segments in the watch industry. With the number of pilot’s watches on the market, each new novelty has to be that much more strategic to figure out how to capture the hearts of buyers. To stand out, you have to be true to the design … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Oris Pro Pilot TLP Limited Edition soars with a distinctive olive green dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Dial Artist is the man behind the customised CasiOak Galaxy – the hottest G-Shock on the planet Time+Tide
Casio ak Galaxy – Mar 8, 2021

The Dial Artist is the man behind the customised CasiOak Galaxy – the hottest G-Shock on the planet

It’s no secret that we’re big fans of the G-Shock CasiOoak and have become particularly intrigued by the modified versions. The CasiOak has quickly become the darling of everyone from first watch-wearing millennials to experienced collectors. Then it dropped. The Casioak Galaxy was a collaboration between IFL Watches and The Dial Artist (Kit Alexander) as … ContinuedThe post The Dial Artist is the man behind the customised CasiOak Galaxy – the hottest G-Shock on the planet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Nicknaming Vintage Watches: Musings On Vanessa Redgrave’s Rolex 5513 Submariner With Explorer Dial In Clubhouse Chat Quill & Pad
Rolex 5513 Submariner Mar 6, 2021

Nicknaming Vintage Watches: Musings On Vanessa Redgrave’s Rolex 5513 Submariner With Explorer Dial In Clubhouse Chat

In early February, expert spotter Nick Gould noticed that Vanessa Redgrave was wearing a special watch during the filming of the movie 'Blowup': a very rare Rolex Submariner Reference 5513 with so-called Explorer dial. We felt that the topic deserved more discussion, though, so the team turned to the latest form of social media: Clubhouse. You can hear the recorded conversation about that and the general nicknaming of vintage watches here.

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Edition SLGH007 with “Annual Growth Tree Rings” dial in platinum Time+Tide
Grand Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Edition Feb 24, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Edition SLGH007 with “Annual Growth Tree Rings” dial in platinum

The Grand Seiko brand and the Seiko Corporation have a lot to celebrate this year. Across Seiko brands, the collections have seen growth all around the globe with more and more people gaining respect and admiration for the Japanese manufacturer, even in the most inclement of market conditions. Last evening, at the global Seiko summit, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Edition SLGH007 with “Annual Growth Tree Rings” dial in platinum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS ON: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red presents a dial that’ll make you weep Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Feb 21, 2021

HANDS ON: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red presents a dial that’ll make you weep

The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red ticks all my own personal boxes in a big way. The fact that I am a dial man who loves a coloured face and has a marked preference for three-hand watches makes it seem perfect on paper. Fortunately, it’s even better in the metal. … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red presents a dial that’ll make you weep appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: You’ll get lost in the spellbinding dial of the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Feb 18, 2021

VIDEO: You’ll get lost in the spellbinding dial of the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red

H.Moser have become central to the revival of deep fumé or degradè dial finishing. Their deep colours captivate your attention like no flat black dial ever could. In this video we check out the the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red, which certainly lives up to its colourful name. This luscious … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: You’ll get lost in the spellbinding dial of the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Is the Grand Seiko SBGR321 just another stainless-steel watch with a blue dial? Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGR321 just another stainless-steel Feb 17, 2021

HANDS-ON: Is the Grand Seiko SBGR321 just another stainless-steel watch with a blue dial?

The market for stainless-steel watches with blue dials is as hot as ever. And it makes sense for brands to produce watches that meet this demand. But how many more do we really need? The Grand Seiko SBGR321 was first announced towards the end of last year as a part of their 60th anniversary releases, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Is the Grand Seiko SBGR321 just another stainless-steel watch with a blue dial? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.