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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Reaching The Top With The Heavyweight HP Hercules In Polished Tantalum Fratello
Aug 15, 2026

Reaching The Top With The Heavyweight HP Hercules In Polished Tantalum

Last year, Thomas went hands-on with the HP Hercules Hand-Wound Double-Barreled. Today, I’m going to do exactly the same. However, this time the watch doesn’t feature a stainless-steel case but rather a fully polished tantalum one. As you might know, tantalum is an extremely dense metal, which makes the watch much heavier and also harder […] Visit Reaching The Top With The Heavyweight HP Hercules In Polished Tantalum to read the full article.

Is The Piaget Polo Signature Date Exactly What The Brand Needed? (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
Piaget Polo Signature Date Exactly Aug 14, 2026

Is The Piaget Polo Signature Date Exactly What The Brand Needed? (Hands-On)

Piaget’s released a new iteration of their Polo Signature Date, but does it truly embody the brand’s modern creative vision? Let’s find out! What We Love: Shapely, wearable case More distinct dial & identity The rubber strap – still comfortable! What We Don’t: Crown feels slightly small Dead zone when changing times Is it finally recognisable? Overall Rating: 9.25/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 10/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 For as much as I love watches for their design, technology, or daring in either field, recognition must be recognised as one of the most important elements of a watch brand’s arsenal. When a watch brand goes ‘mainstream’ within the enthusiast community, it brings with it a significant amount of power within the watch world. But it’s usually easier said than done; scant few brands have managed to capture the attention of both hardcore enthusiasts and luxury lovers at the same time. Piaget is a brand that has perennially clung to the fringes of that audience. In the past, they hadn’t been able to tap into the enthusiast crowd with the same level of magnitude as some of their peers in Richemont. While one can easily point the finger towards characteristics like ultra-luxury and exclusivity, it hasn’t stopped other brands of a similar calibre from breaking through. So if not that, then what? Perhaps it’s due to a lack of distinctive visual identity, which in recent years has begun to change. While fans of the ...

Introducing: The Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour 'Ultimus' Hodinkee
Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour Aug 10, 2026

Introducing: The Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour 'Ultimus'

What We Know Fears just announced the final chapter of its Brunswick Jump Hour collection, and this appropriately named Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour 'Ultimus' might just be the collection's most interesting execution yet. Designed in collaboration with British watch content creator Andrew Morgan, the Ultimus takes the modern design cues from the Brunswick Jump Hour all the way to eleven, with a stark black-and-white sensibility in a very sleek "Phantom White" dial execution. The focal point is the new jump hour dial, and yes, it's very lumed. Rather than in typical Brunswick Jump Hour executions, which hide all inactive numerals, this dial execution uses sapphire to reveal the oversized hour disc beneath and leans into it as part of the design. A black outer ring holds minimal branding, and within are two luminous ceramic discs—the lower disc is for the rotating (and jumping) hours, and the other disc floats above, housing the printed minute track and the oversized black minute hand. That center lumed ceramic disc above is also connected to a frosted outer ring, which holds the printed minute numerals and offers a subtle peek at the inactive hour numerals on the rest of the dial. At twelve o'clock is a magnifier, which replaces the typical framed window we've seen on the other Brunswick Jump Hours to highlight the current hour and its numeral(s) in full. The steel case is unchanged in this edition, with a diameter of 40.5mm, a thickness of 12.8mm, and a lug-to-lug of 47mm. I...

The New Casio Pro Trek PRJ-B001EX-1 Hides a Pocket in Its Strap WatchRider
Casio Pro Trek PRJ-B001EX-1 Hides Aug 8, 2026

The New Casio Pro Trek PRJ-B001EX-1 Hides a Pocket in Its Strap

Casio is preparing a new Pro Trek that approaches outdoor usefulness from a different direction. The PRJ-B001EX-1 does not add a compass, altimeter or barometer. Instead, it takes the familiar PRJ-B001 Hiker Line watch and gives it a reversible cloth band with its own storage pocket. Planned for release in August 2026, the watch is a special version of Casio’s compact analogue-digital outdoor model. Casio says the design was created after studying how campers carry small essentials. The Casio Pro Trek PRJ-B001EX-1 combines the analogue-digital Hiker Line watch with a wide reversible cloth band. A strap with a useful secret The wide fabric band includes a small zipped pocket beside the watch. It is intended for coins, a parking ticket or another tiny item that would otherwise disappear into a backpack. It will not replace a wallet, but it gives the wearer quick access to something small without opening a bag. This also gives the PRJ-B001EX-1 an EDC (Everyday Carry) angle, since the pocket can hold a coin, folded banknote or another small essential. The entire band can also be reversed and folded around the watch. In this position it covers the case and mineral crystal, creating a compact pouch that protects the watch while it is not being worn. A carabiner can be attached to the strap so the PRJ-B001EX-1 can hang from a backpack, belt loop or the inside of a tent. A zipped pocket beside the watch can hold coins, a parking ticket or another small item. On the wrist it work...

Hands-On: The Parmigiani Fleurier 30th Anniversary Carillon Tourbillon Hodinkee
Parmigiani Fleurier 30th Anniversary Carillon Tourbillon Aug 6, 2026

Hands-On: The Parmigiani Fleurier 30th Anniversary Carillon Tourbillon

Parmigiani Fleurier is a brand that has long embodied the idea of quiet luxury — or "private luxury," as Parmigiani CEO Guido Terrini asserts — frankly, sometimes to a fault. Many of its models pair spectacular watchmaking with a radically simplified design language, and the unique execution of a mechanical chronograph in the brand's Tonda Chronograph Mystérieux earlier this spring quite literally hides its mechanical extravagance as part of the complication. We'll have more on the Chronograph Mystérieux soon, but there's another watch launched this year that also feels unmistakably Parmigiani in execution—the Carillon Tourbillon 30th Anniversary in white gold. To celebrate the brand's 30th anniversary this year, Parmigiani Fleurier launched a trio of limited-edition Toric models at Watches and Wonders, featuring hand-hammered gold dials. The Toric Petite Seconde in platinum, a Toric Quantième Perpétuel in rose gold, and a Toric Chronographe Rattrapante in platinum all got the new dial treatment. Then, a few months after the show, Parmigiani dropped this whopper of a watch. Let's get the not-so-fun part out of the way first—the Carillon Tourbillon 30th Anniversary is limited to 5 pieces, and priced at CHF 490,000. To most collectors, it might be an unobtainium watch in so many aspects, but that doesn't stop this thing from being an absolute joy to see in person. At a glance, the overall silhouette of the Carillon Tourbillon fits into the classic Parmigiani play...

GRØNE Introduces the Horologium, a New Limited Edition in “Quirky” and “Classic” Variants Worn & Wound
Kurono Tokyo Aug 6, 2026

GRØNE Introduces the Horologium, a New Limited Edition in “Quirky” and “Classic” Variants

The GRØNE brand was introduced in the fall of 2024 at the absolute height of what I think can fairly be called the diffusion line craze. Between MB&F; with their M.A.D. Editions, Hajime Asaoka with Kurono Tokyo, and a host of others, high end watchmakers making accessible products in a well understood design language has been one of the more interesting developments across the independent watchmaking landscape over the past few years. The pace of these projects coming to market has slowed down somewhat, but that’s only helped us understand which ones are taken seriously as brands unto themselves by their founders and operators. GRØNE, I think, falls into the category of a brand that the founders, Bart and Tim Grönefeld, who also of course run their eponymously named brand, take seriously, or at least as a labor of love for their friends and family who are priced out of their largely handmade luxury watches.  The latest from GRØNE is a new three-hander in two variants, one meant to be serious and the other a little more playful. Both, I think, do a nice job of capturing the aesthetic cues of the Grönefeld brand in a way that previous efforts did not, while also acting as a showcase for the personalities of Bart and Tim.  The new Horologium is available in two variants: “Quirky” and “Classic”. The Quirky variant has a bright orange dial that points to the brand’s Dutch heritage with complementary baby blue accents. The Classic is a more refined salmon dial ...

Fratello Talks: The Ultimate Decade For Watches Fratello
Aug 6, 2026

Fratello Talks: The Ultimate Decade For Watches

What was the ultimate decade for watches? And if you had to choose just one and could only wear watches from that period, which would you pick? They may sound like two straightforward questions, but they quickly become more complicated once you start considering design, movements, innovation, and the sheer variety of watches produced over […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Ultimate Decade For Watches to read the full article.

Seiko And Honda Celebrate The Iconic Motocompo With A New Seiko 5 Sports Limited Edition Fratello
Seiko Aug 5, 2026

Seiko And Honda Celebrate The Iconic Motocompo With A New Seiko 5 Sports Limited Edition

Seiko has introduced a new limited edition to its Seiko 5 Sports collection in collaboration with Honda, taking inspiration from the iconic Motocompo folding scooter first introduced in 1981. Limited to 8,000 pieces worldwide, the watch incorporates several design elements inspired by the Motocompo, including a vivid yellow dial, a black center section bearing the […] Visit Seiko And Honda Celebrate The Iconic Motocompo With A New Seiko 5 Sports Limited Edition to read the full article.

Casio F-B100W Brings Bluetooth and Step Tracking to the F-91W Formula WatchRider
Casio F-B100W Brings Bluetooth Aug 4, 2026

Casio F-B100W Brings Bluetooth and Step Tracking to the F-91W Formula

Casio has listed the F-B100W, a three-watch family that adds Bluetooth and step tracking to its uncomplicated digital formula. Japanese retailers opened preorders at ¥8,800 including tax, with release scheduled for August 2026. Prices for Europe, the UK and the US remain unannounced; the passport stamps are still pending. The official campaign image makes the pitch clear: familiar Casio digital design, now with Smartphone Link, step tracking and an amber LED backlight. That is the whole idea in one image: a familiar rectangular Casio that can correct its time through a phone and count your steps. The F-B100W-1AJF makes the clearest introduction, with a black resin case, positive LCD and blue, red and gold labels. The small step indicator above the time is the clue that this is not simply another colour of an old watch. F-B100W-1A: black resin, positive display and familiar blue-and-red Casio accents. The F-91W connection is official Casio says the front and strap design inherit the look of the F-91W, introduced in 1989. The new case measures 41.9 × 38.1 × 8.8mm and weighs 26g. An F-91W is 38.2 × 35.2 × 8.5mm and 21g, so the newcomer is larger, but only just. At 8.8mm thick, the F-B100W keeps the old-school digital silhouette pleasingly slim. On my 6.5-inch wrist, the dimensions suggest an easy, compact fit, although I have not handled one yet. The resin case, resin glass and 145–215mm strap range keep the specification familiar. The main resin parts of the band use ...

Glashütte Original Introduces Two New Limited Editions Versions of the SeaQ Worn & Wound
Glashütte Original Introduces Two New Limited Aug 4, 2026

Glashütte Original Introduces Two New Limited Editions Versions of the SeaQ

When it comes to luxury divers in the $10,000-$20,000 range, the usual suspects are big Swiss heritage brands. Rolex, Omega, and Blancpain immediately come to mind, and IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and a host of indies offer sporty watches that are dive adjacent if not divers, strictly speaking, that collectors might consider cross shopping. Glashütte Original is a brand that probably doesn’t get mentioned enough in this category, as they actually offer two dive watches in this price range built on their SeaQ platform that are worthy of consideration. The brand has just introduced new versions of their SeaQ Panorama Date and standard SeaQ in a new “Northern Tide” colorway for the North American market that got me thinking about these watches (frankly, reminding me they exist).  I’ve handled both the SeaQ and SeaQ Panorama Date in the past and both watches are very nicely made, but each come with significant tradeoffs that make them tough to commit to, but in different ways. The standard SeaQ is the brand’s stripped down stainless steel diver, measuring 39.5mm in diameter, 12.15mm tall, and 47.2mm from lug to lug. The SeaQ’s case is very nicely executed and gives the feeling of a classic skin diver but with higher end, luxury finishing. The trade off here is really the movement – it runs on GO’s Caliber 39-11, which is a very nicely decorated movement, but has a power reserve of 40 hours, which is low relative to the competition, and is missing the signature Gla...

The Arche By Laps Bridges The Gap Between Architecture And Watchmaking Fratello
Aug 4, 2026

The Arche By Laps Bridges The Gap Between Architecture And Watchmaking

When you’re into watches, you sometimes come across new brands on Instagram that spark your interest. The recently introduced Arche by French watch design studio Laps is a great example of this phenomenon. Somehow, the bold case design and asymmetric dial design caught my eye. However, I do not always reach out to these brands […] Visit The Arche By Laps Bridges The Gap Between Architecture And Watchmaking to read the full article.

Fratello On Air: Nick From DC Vintage Watches and Matt From SOTP Join The Show Fratello
Aug 4, 2026

Fratello On Air: Nick From DC Vintage Watches and Matt From SOTP Join The Show

Mike is taking a week off from the podcast, but that doesn’t mean you have to go without an episode. Instead of finding one guest to fill the gap, I figured, why not two? So this week, I sat down with Nick from DC Vintage Watches and Matt (one half of the Spirit of Time […] Visit Fratello On Air: Nick From DC Vintage Watches and Matt From SOTP Join The Show to read the full article.

Introducing - The Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01707 in Lightweight Carbotech Monochrome
Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01707 Aug 3, 2026

Introducing - The Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01707 in Lightweight Carbotech

Panerai expands the use of advanced materials across its collections and reveals the new Luminor Marina PAM01707. The overall design remains unmistakably that of the classic Luminor, with the crown-protecting bridge, sandwich dial and 44mm proportions, but the latest addition pairs these familiar elements with a full Carbotech case. This lighter, highly corrosion-resistant version of […]

Hands-On Review: TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph Pastel Blue Brings The Fun Back WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph Pastel Aug 3, 2026

Hands-On Review: TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph Pastel Blue Brings The Fun Back

I took one of TAG Heuer’s most vibrant Formula 1 Solargraph editions out for a test drive to see whether its playful design is backed by everyday practicality. What We Love: Vibrant Pastel Blue feels refreshing and full of character Recaptures the playful spirit of the original Formula 1 Lightweight wearability and Solargraph practicality suit the fun aesthetic. What We Don’t: AUD $2,950 feels steep for a quartz TH-Polylight watch. The monochromatic design may be too niche for some. Limited strap options restrict its overall versatility. Overall Rating: 8.3/10 Value for Money: 8.3/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8.0/10 Few watches in TAG Heuer’s catalogue like to have fun quite like the Formula 1 Solargraphs. Originally introduced in 1986, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 editions represented a new beginning for the recently formed brand, bringing together colourful designs, lightweight construction, reliable quartz movements and an accessible price point. Original 1986 TAG Heuer Formula 1. Image reference: Magazine.Tagheuer.com The first Formula 1 editions arrived during a period when colourful quartz watches were trending, helping to reinvigorate the Swiss watch industry after the Quartz Crisis. TAG Heuer looked to join in on the fun and responded with something lightweight, accessible and closely connected to the brand’s history and heritage in motorsport. The vibrant colours and composite construction of the watches separated them from tradition...

Introducing - The Glashütte Original SeaQ “Northern Tide” Limited Editions for North America Monochrome
Glashütte Original SeaQ “Northern Tide” Limited Jul 31, 2026

Introducing - The Glashütte Original SeaQ “Northern Tide” Limited Editions for North America

Glashütte Original expands its SeaQ collection of dive watches with two limited editions created exclusively for the North American market. Named “Northern Tide”, the limited editions are based on the existing SeaQ and SeaQ Panorama Date, introducing an all-new turquoise dégradé dial. Aside from the new colourway, both models retain the design, movements and specifications […]

Did Longines Give The Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve A Modern Makeover? (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
Longines Give Jul 30, 2026

Did Longines Give The Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve A Modern Makeover? (Hands-On)

Longines have created a new spin on a heritage design, but have they done enough to give the unique watch a modern kick? Let’s find out! What We Love: A modern but non-generic colour & finish Universal, easy-wearing dimensions Unique heritage-inspired complication What We Don’t: Questionable lume Movement finishing somewhat lacking How new can an ‘old’ watch be? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Heritage revivals have become a huge part of the modern watch industry. Everywhere you look, there’s another release that’s either an exact copy of, or inspired by, a design from a bygone era. While these watches have returned to varying degrees of success, they typically all share one common thread: they put their fingers on the pulse of the watch community to see which past designs have proved wildly popular, then remaster them accordingly. Longines, however, has started to behave a little differently. While the brand has found plenty of success bringing back watches from its vast archive (case in point, the Ultra-Chron) they use them as a celebration of its brand identity, inviting the watch community to celebrate alongside it. That doesn’t mean chasing what’s popular, but rather embracing what makes Longines so distinctive in a sea of sameness. Perhaps the best example of this is the Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve. Inspired by a design from 1959, the watch was brought bac...

Introducing: The Ming 37.06 Royal Selangor Limited Edition Hodinkee
Ming 37.06 Royal Selangor Limited Jul 30, 2026

Introducing: The Ming 37.06 Royal Selangor Limited Edition

What We Know A funky new dial is probably the least surprising thing to come from Ming these days, but somehow, the new Ming 37.06 Royal Selangor still feels like a compelling play on the brand's two-hander 37-series design. This time around, Ming doubles down on its Malaysian roots for a collaboration with Malaysian pewter brand Royal Selangor. What we get is a dramatically hammered pewter dial, made by Royal Selangor in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. The grooves and scales of the hammering are quite exaggerated for the size of the dial, which offers an uninterrupted surface for the hammering without any printing or applied markers. With this expansive, highly textured dial, Ming's usage of the top sapphire crystal as an alternative place for dial markings is very useful, with the underside of the top sapphire crystal engraved and infilled with Super-LumiNova X1 for a luminescent track with hour markers and Ming's logo at the top that floats above the hammered pewter surface. It's complemented by the distinctive blued 37-series handset, also coated with a generous amount of Super-LumiNova. The luster of the dial is framed by the more demure look of a fully-brushed grade-2 titanium case, with a diameter of 38mm, a thickness of 11.05mm, and a compact lug-to-lug of 44.73mm. Engraved on the periphery of the exhibition caseback is Ming and Royal Selangor branding, and through the sapphire crystal, the automatic Sellita for MING SW300.M1 is seen in full view. Yes, on paper the movemen...

Introducing - The Ming 37.06 Royal Selangor, with Hammered Pewter Dial Monochrome
Ming 37.06 Royal Selangor Jul 30, 2026

Introducing - The Ming 37.06 Royal Selangor, with Hammered Pewter Dial

Founded in 2017 by photographer Ming Thein and headquartered in Kuala Lumpur, Ming is a design-driven independent watch brand distinguished by a contemporary aesthetic in which minimalism, luminescence and layered construction all play defining roles. For the latest release, Ming strays from its usual course, turning to traditional craftsmanship for the dial of the new […]

Hanhart Introduces the Square by Square, a Limited Edition of Six Prototypes Worn & Wound
Jul 28, 2026

Hanhart Introduces the Square by Square, a Limited Edition of Six Prototypes

What do you think of when you think of Hanhart? I think it’s fair to say that for most of us, the watches that come to mind immediately are very distinctly tool oriented watches. Aviation inspired chronographs with that iconic red pusher, simple but tough field watches, and maybe a diver for good measure. And while certainly the brand dabbles in more elegant fare from time to time, a shaped design forward watch like the Square by Square feels very unexpected. But maybe it shouldn’t? We are, after all, in a moment where everyone is trying their hand at stone dials, shaped cases, and generally challenging the sensibilities of a market previously laser focused on sports watches.  Hanhart, of course, has been around for a very long time, and the Square by Square’s DNA can be traced back to shaped watches in the brand’s extensive archive. This is, however, a completely new design. The brand worked with Marcus Wiedemann, a Munich based designer they have collaborated with previously, on the Square by Square, which was originally an entry in the Dubai Watch Week x Grail Watch Design Competition. The design wound up being named as a finalist in the (very specific) “Most out-of-the-box, innovative yet viable shaped watch design” category.  What we have here is a case that at first presents as a square, but tilted so that it sits on the wrist in a diamond shape. The chief design inspiration here, beyond the Hanhart archives, is the idea of “curved spacetime” and th...

Introducing - The new Citizen Tsuyosa Shore “Time Slip” Limited Edition Monochrome
Citizen Tsuyosa Shore “Time Slip” Jul 28, 2026

Introducing - The new Citizen Tsuyosa Shore “Time Slip” Limited Edition

The Citizen Tsuyosa is one of the strongest contenders in the affordable automatic sports watch segment. Launched in 2022, the collection has steadily expanded with new sizes, colours and specifications, most recently gaining a more adventurous personality with the 100m water-resistant Tsuyosa Shore, equipped with a rotating bezel. Now, Citizen combines the sporty design of […]

A Promising First Encounter With The Updated Aera D-1 Diver Fratello
Jul 28, 2026

A Promising First Encounter With The Updated Aera D-1 Diver

Making a dive watch stand out today is genuinely tough. The archetype has been reinterpreted so many times that most releases blur together. The Aera D-1 Diver, however, managed to catch my attention with its less-is-more design philosophy. This modern diver uses fairly minimalist visual cues and combines them with a beautifully sculpted case. Add […] Visit A Promising First Encounter With The Updated Aera D-1 Diver to read the full article.

Owner’s Review: the Serica 5303-3 Worn & Wound
Isotope Jul 27, 2026

Owner’s Review: the Serica 5303-3

Over the last few years, Serica has emerged as one of these small indies or microbrands that has a real identity, seemingly right out of the gate. We often talk about brand like Ming, or Brew, or SpaceOne as new independents that are approachable and have a very distinct design language that you can recognize from across the room, but those brands have a cheat code of sorts in that they make watches that are unapologetically contemporary, or even looking toward the future. Having a genuinely unique perspective aesthetically when you trade in watches that have a vintage vibe about them is a very different proposition. It’s honestly very tough to think of a brand other than Serica that has attempted to do this and managed to pull it off so effectively.  The trick, I think, is that they’ve never attempted to actually recreate anything specific from the past. Rather, they’re inspired by vintage design codes, but feel a sense of freedom to interpret those ideas through their own lens. It’s not a modern lens, necessarily (I think that’s where a lot of brands get tripped up, trying to combine the aesthetic of a bunch of different eras in a single watch), but more of an imagined past, or alternate history.  Serica is not the only brand to take an approach like this. Isotope and Albishorn have both worked in a similar fashion in recent years, sometimes explicitly developing an elaborate fictional narrative to explain a watch (as is the case with Albishorn), and sometime...