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Overseas Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin's integrated-bracelet luxury sports watch, since 1996. Maltese-cross bezel, tool-free strap system.

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Ref. 222 Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin's original 1977 integrated sports watch, designed by Jörg Hysek aged 23. Predecessor to the Overseas.

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Vacheron Constantin Gallery Vacheron Constantin

Wristshot gallery from the Horlogeforum Vacheron Constantin thread.

In-Depth: Parmigiani Revives a Louis-Elisée Piguet Grande Sonnerie SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Dec 9, 2021

In-Depth: Parmigiani Revives a Louis-Elisée Piguet Grande Sonnerie

A grand old name in highly complicated movements, Louis-Elisée Piguet was active in the second half of the 19th century and most famous for his grande sonnerie and perpetual calendar calibres. Amongst his clients for ebauches, or movement blanks, were famous names like Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin – and his work was perhaps an inspiration for Philippe Dufour in the 20th century. A prime example of one such ebauche – featuring a grande sonnerie and minute repeater no less – was acquired by Michel Parmigiani in the late 1990s. A watchmaker and restorer extraordinaire, Mr Parmigiani and his daughter, Anne-Laure, recently led a project to finish and enhance the movement, resulting in La Rose Carrée, a spectacular pocket watch to mark his namesake brand’s 25th anniversary. Initial thoughts Like the recent Vacheron Constantin Tribute to Johannes Vermeer pocket watch, La Rose Carrée is a masterpiece catered to a narrow audience. There are few collectors of pocket watches nowadays, at least relative to wristwatches, especially pocket watches with seven figure price tags. But inaccessible as it may be,  La Rose Carrée is certainly worthy of admiration. The quality of craft and decoration is par excellence – an all-star team of artisans was recruited to complete it – and the ebauche was a masterpiece even unfinished. Stylistically, La Rose Carrée is also unusual in being more contemporary than the average grand complication pocket watch. The geometric f...

INTRODUCING: The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillons – in 38.5mm! Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin excels within Oct 6, 2021

INTRODUCING: The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillons – in 38.5mm!

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept collection is a safe space for AP to explore new complications and designs, a playground where the holy trinity brand really differentiates itself from its peers. I can confidently say that AP, when compared against Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin, excels within the trio by creating more adventurous timepieces … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillons – in 38.5mm! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watches & Wonders Will Return to Geneva in 2022 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Oct 5, 2021

Watches & Wonders Will Return to Geneva in 2022

After two years of digital fairs – and several sold-out physical fairs in China – Watches & Wonders is finally happening in Geneva. First announced for 2020 as the successor to the long-running SIHH, which for two decades was the luxury-watch fair in Geneva, Watches & Wonders (W&W;) 2022 will take place from March 30 to April 5 at Palexpo, with 39 brands in attendance. All of the major names that spurred the demise of Baselworld will exhibit at W&W; 2022, namely Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, Chopard and Tudor. They’ll be joined by most of the brands owned by Richemont, the Swiss luxury group that was historically the anchor of SIHH, the event that preceded W&W;. Amongst the Richemont brands are A. Lange & Söhne, Cartier, IWC, and Vacheron Constantin. Another luxury group represented at the fair is LVMH, which has all three of its watch brands – Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith – taking part. Bulgari, however, is notably absent, perhaps because there are already two Richemont-owned jewellers present. One of the significant newcomers is Grand Seiko, which only just announced its participation in the fair. Seiko was a longtime mainstay of Baselworld, so it’s not surprising that its top-of-the-line brand is returning to Switzerland to exhibit its newest watches. The gang returns, except for the independents As was the case with SIHH in the past, W&W; 2022 will include the Carré des Horlogers, a square dedicated to independent watchmakers. In years past the carré co...

Ulysse Nardin Introduces Classico The Hour Glass Ginza 25th Anniversary SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Sep 17, 2021

Ulysse Nardin Introduces Classico The Hour Glass Ginza 25th Anniversary

A mainstay of the luxury-watch scene in Tokyo for a quarter century, The Hour Glass in Ginza is the only Japanese outpost of the Singapore-based watch retailer. Led since its opening by watch veteran Atsushi Momoi, the store in the posh shopping district recently reopened after a makeover, just in time for its 25th anniversary. To mark the occasion, the store commissioned a pair of limited-edition models, including the Ulysse Nardin Classico The Hour Glass Ginza 25th Anniversary (and the other a Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon in platinum). The newly-revamped store in Ginza Initial thoughts Unsurprisingly given the experience of Mr Momoi and his team, the Ginza anniversary edition has an appealing, classical aesthetic characterised by a strong attention to detail. In fact, despite its simplicity, the dial is replete with elegant, smart details. One of the most subtle is the fact that “Swiss made” sits on the minute track, streamlining the dial. And it goes without saying the date has been removed. And illustrating the discretion often prized by Japanese clientele, the most expensive upgrade to the watch is hidden – the 22k gold rotor on the back. Sophisticated, classical style While UN typically favours Roman numerals on its watches, the Ginza anniversary edition is executed in a style that is decidedly classical, reflecting the taste of the Japanese consumer. The dial is “salmon” in tone and finished with a radial guilloche, with applied Breguet n...

Audemars Piguet introduces three highly complicated pieces into the 2021 collection Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Sep 14, 2021

Audemars Piguet introduces three highly complicated pieces into the 2021 collection

Holy trinity is a term that gets tossed around a fair bit. Its origins and usage are debated by some within the community, but I personally recognise the three holy trinity brands as the manufacturers who have had the longest, most prestigious and continuous production: Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin. Lately, the marketplace … ContinuedThe post Audemars Piguet introduces three highly complicated pieces into the 2021 collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: The Unique and Magical Oval Tourbillon Watch by Derek Pratt SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin ever Sep 10, 2021

In-Depth: The Unique and Magical Oval Tourbillon Watch by Derek Pratt

I first met Derek Pratt (1938-2009) at a sale held by Ineichen, a Zürich-based auction house, in 1975. He was in the company of Peter Baumberger (1939-2010), an antique watch dealer and trained watchmaker that took over long-dormant Danish brand Urban Jürgensen & Sonner in 1981 . A contemporary and friend of George Daniels, Derek was a talented English watchmaker who restored many of Baumberger’s outstanding historical pocket watches. Amongst them was then the most complicated Vacheron Constantin ever, the grand complication N°402833 made for King Fuad of Egypt in 1929, which Baumberger bought at auction – the watch was lot 202 at the October 7, 1979 sale at Galerie d’Horlogerie Ancienne (the business founded by Osvaldo Patrizzi that would later become Antiquorum). Baumberger would have trusted no one else other than Derek to restore that watch. In the following years, I visited Derek’s workshop several times with Peter, often in the company of illustrious watch collectors and enthusiasts, all fascinated by Derek’s knowledge of traditional watchmaking and his beautifully equipped workshop. Not long after, Peter recruited Derek to be consultant and technical director at Urban Jürgensen. As such, he was responsible for the company’s greatest technical achievements in pocket watches, which was the leading genre in watch collecting at the time. Derek at work According to Urban Jürgensen records and my personal archive, Derek completed around 34 watches for the...

Parmigiani Introduces the Tondagraph GT “Panda” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin where he designed Jun 1, 2021

Parmigiani Introduces the Tondagraph GT “Panda”

Parmigiani got on integrated-bracelet sports watch bandwagon last year with the launch of the Tonda GT, in both chronograph and three-hand formats. Like many of its luxury-sports watch peers, the Tonda GT was penned with the help of a (somewhat) famous designer, Dino Modolo, an industry veteran whose best known work comes from his time at Vacheron Constantin, where he designed the original Overseas. While the Tonda GT is arguably Parmigiani’s first bona fide sports watch, it is surprisingly good – stay tuned for a review soon – and now Parmigiani has unveiled a pair of Tondagraph GT chronographs with “panda” dials. Decorated with clou triangulaire guilloche, the silvered dials are matched with glossy black ceramic registers, elevating the retro “panda” to a new level. Somewhat confusingly, the Tondagraph GT will be available in steel with a modular movement featuring an annual calendar, or in 18k gold equipped with a pure-play, integrated chronograph movement that’s both high-frequency and finely constructed. Initial thoughts The Tonda GT has an appealing, original look that most crucially avoids looking derivative, an easy pitfall in the integrated-bracelet sports watch segment. And despite being one of the many such sports watches, the Tonda GT stands out with its own style that is inspired by Parmigiani’s dress watches, resulting in a look that’s best described as curious but attractive. The Tondagraph’s case and bracelet are neither angular nor ...

Highlights: Phillips Geneva Watch Auction SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin American 1921 Perpetual Calendar May 7, 2021

Highlights: Phillips Geneva Watch Auction

Kicking off the spring-season watch auctions, the upcoming Phillips sale in Geneva takes place over the weekend of May 8 and 9. Led by the Patek Philippe ref. 2523 cloisonné world time “Eurasia”, the 236-lot catalogue has clearly been curated to cater to the taste of contemporary collectors. We round up a few interesting lots from the sale, including a pair of obscure watches by famed independent watchmakers – the Harry Winston Opus 1 by F.P. Journe, and the Roger W. Smith Series 1 “Onely” for Theo Fennell. Perhaps as unusual, but this time from an establishment name, is the Vacheron Constantin American 1921 Perpetual Calendar. And then there’s the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 570 with a two-tone dial and Breguet numerals, which is simply gorgeous. The Geneva Watch Auction: XIII takes place on May 8 (for lots 1-130) and May 9 (lots 131-236). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available online. Lots 57 and 89 – Cartier Tortue monopoussoir chronographs Enjoying a resurgent interest in its elegant but original designs, bringing to mind its 1990s heyday at auction, Cartier is now frequently encountered in watch auctions. And the two present examples of the Tortue are each interesting, but even more notable side by side in the same same. They are the same watch – the original from 1930 and the remake some seven decades on. Tortue, French for” turtle”, is a century-old design attributed to Cartier, having made its debut in 1912. It’s ...

Highlights: Sothebys’ Hong Kong Watch Auction SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin miniature enamel pocket watch Apr 19, 2021

Highlights: Sothebys’ Hong Kong Watch Auction

Taking place on Friday, April 23, 2021, Sotheby’s first live watch auction of the year takes place in Hong Kong. Important Watches is a full-sized sale led by the unique Rolex “Zenith” Daytona in platinum with a turquoise “Stella” dial, which might just set the record for most valuable automatic Daytona ever sold at auction. But the 296-lot sale is diverse in the traditional manner of Hong Kong auctions, encompassing vintage Patek Philippe, modern grand complications, and an assortment of independent watchmaking. Here’s a roundup of a few noteworthy lots at the auction, including a Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in exceptional condition, a pair of gorgeous pocket watches decorated with the very best of Geneva miniature enamelling, and the F.P Journe Coffret 38 made up of five watches with steel cases. The auction will start at 11 am local time on April 23 at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre, while the catalogue and online bidding are available on Sothebys.com. Lot 2185 – Vacheron Constantin miniature enamel pocket watch The middle decades of the 20th century were a golden age for miniature enamelling in Geneva, with the cities best watchmakers recruiting its best enamellers to decorate pocket watches. One example of such work is lot 2185, a yellow gold pocket watch made in 1948 by Vacheron Constantin that bears a miniature enamel painting by Hélène May Mercier (1910-1996), an artisan who learnt the craft with another famed enameller, Carlo Poluzzi...

Christie’s Debuts Online Classes on Major Watch Brands SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Mar 18, 2021

Christie’s Debuts Online Classes on Major Watch Brands

Christie’s Education, the learning division of the auction house, has just launched Behind the Curtain: Watchmaking Houses, a series of virtual classes catered to beginner enthusiasts that profile the most important watch brands – essentially the names that are typically the most sought after at watch auctions. Conducted by Geneva-based watch expert Antoine Géraud, the weekly courses cover the history, important watches, and key personalities at Patek Phillipe, Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Breguet, Vacheron Constantin, and Cartier. Each lecture is 75 minutes, and recordings of each session will be available for seven days after the class should participants wish to revisit. The programme is essentially a crash course, making it ideal for beginners who want to learn more about key brands. And the length of the lectures seems ideal – punchy and brief, but enough to convey the necessary knowledge. The Patek Philippe ref. 5101P 10 Day Tourbillon Alongside the watch history classes is a separate programme covering the biggest names in jewellery, taught by historian Vanessa Cron. Just like the watch classes, these will go into the stories behind names like Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany & Co., Bulgari, and Cartier. With jewellers often being watchmakers as well, burgeoning watch enthusiasts might find the jewellery classes useful too. An Audemars Piguet Grand Complication pocket watch that sold at Christie’s in 2019 The price of a single class is HK$1,200, or about US$150. The ...

MICRO MONDAYS: Furlan Marri deliver retro chronographs at a great price in their assured debut collection Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Mar 7, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Furlan Marri deliver retro chronographs at a great price in their assured debut collection

The 1940s were peak years for twin register chronographs with some notable greats from Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Lemania.  As the functional sports watches of that era, the typical twin register layout was balanced with a delicate design language and an often whimsical art-deco flourish to the graphics. In 2021, their intricate detail and … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Furlan Marri deliver retro chronographs at a great price in their assured debut collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Watches & Wonders 2021 Will Happen Online – And in Shanghai SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin as will Jan 29, 2021

Business News: Watches & Wonders 2021 Will Happen Online – And in Shanghai

Originally slated to be the ultimate watch fair that would also include the major brands that departed Baselworld, Watches & Wonders (W&W;) did not take place in 2020 due to the pandemic and instead became a virtual show online, before being transported to China as an actual, physical fair. The event is returning in 2021 in exactly the same format, but with a far larger number of brands taking part. W&W; will happen online from April 7-13, where 38 brands will introduce their latest watches. The participants include nearly all of watchmaking’s major brands and conglomerates. All of Richemont’s brands will be present, including A. Lange & Söhne, Cartier, and Vacheron Constantin, as will the brands owned by LVMH – TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Zenith. The list of exhibitors also includes a handful of independent brands, but few are significant, save for Greubel Forsey. Most crucially, the twin giants of Geneva watchmaking will be taking part, giving the event far greater influence and a wider audience – Rolex and its sister brand Tudor, as well as Patek Philippe. Much like the traditional watch fair in Geneva, the online version of W&W; will be open to retailers, journalists, and select clients of the participating brands. W&W; Shanghai in 2020. Photo – Watches & Wonders And a few days later… With strong demand for luxury watches in China – where social and economic life is largely back to normal – W&W; will then take place as a physical fair in Shanghai once again, b...

Highlights: Value Buys at Phillips’ Hong Kong Watch Auction SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin chronograph Nov 20, 2020

Highlights: Value Buys at Phillips’ Hong Kong Watch Auction

Happening at the end of the month, The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XI is a 250-lot auction with a diversity of offerings, including a good number of grand complications as well as a full complement of the recently-launched Rolex Oyster Perpetual with candy-coloured dials. But for the enthusiast with more esoteric tastes, the sale also includes a selection of affordable independent watchmaking, as well as value buys from more mainstream brands – here’s a look at a couple of highlights, ranging from a surprisingly well-priced Grand Lange 1 Luna Mundi to a white-and-rose-gold Vacheron Constantin chronograph. The auction happens on November 29  at the JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong, while the catalogue and online bidding are available on Phillips.com. Lot 803 – Seiko Prospex Marinemaster Professional 1000 m “Tuna” Gundam Zaku set An anime series about humans doing battle in giant robots, Mobile Suit Gundam is one of the most famed examples of Japanese pop culture, even having a Wikipedia page titled “Cultural impact of Gundam“. Seiko rolled out several limited editions for the 40th anniversary of the franchise last year, including this pair dedicated to the villains of the series, the dome-headed robots known as Zaku. Bulbous and vaguely military in form, the Prospex “Tuna” – arguably the most iconic of Seiko’s many dive watch designs – is surprisingly well matched to the Zaku robots. Resembling a tuna can, the watch case is actually double walled, made ...

Auction Watch: Double F.P. Journe Pisa Orologeria Editions at Ineichen SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin once created limited editions Oct 30, 2020

Auction Watch: Double F.P. Journe Pisa Orologeria Editions at Ineichen

Once a leading auctioneer for high-end pocket watches in the late 20th century, Zurich-based Ineichen is now also specialised in wristwatches. Its upcoming November auction includes an intriguing pair of F.P. Journe watches – a Resonance and tourbillon naturally – both from limited editions made for Pisa Orologeria. Located in Milan, Pisa is one of Italy’s more storied watch retailers. It is a family-run business and prominent enough that a good number of watch brands – ranging from A. Lange & Söhne to Vacheron Constantin – once created limited editions exclusively for Pisa, back when brands used to do such things. Both F.P. Journe watches going on the block at Ineichen were limited editions made for Pisa, and share the same uncommon silver-and-grey livery. The first watch is a Resonance made to mark the 60th anniversary of Pisa in 2000. It has standard 40 mm case and rose gold movement, with an extremely unusual dial. Made of white gold, the dial features dark grey, ruthenium-plated sub-dials with white markings, an unusual combination then and still today. Only five were made, and only one has been sold publicly before – another example sold for 106,250 Swiss francs at Christie’s Geneva in 2015, which was then a record price. The market for F.P. Journe watches has since taken a turbocharged ride upwards, which means the 2015 price will probably be left in the distance at next month’s auction. The next Pisa edition was a follow up to the Resonance. It’...

Fugue Introduces the Fiction One SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Oct 22, 2020

Fugue Introduces the Fiction One

Founded just three years ago, Fugue got its start with a watch featuring a modular case with interchangeable lugs. The brand’s second model is altogether more interesting, the Fiction One. Powered by an automatic Sellita movement, the Fiction One has an intriguing mystery dial – the hands appear to be floating over its surface with no connection to the central axis. Available for pre-order on crowdfunding platform Kickstarter until end October, the Fiction One is available in two dial variations, white and smoked grey. And it is affordable, with a price of €350, or about US$420. [Update December 10, 2020: The original Kickstarter campaign for the watch did not meet its target, but Fugue is doing it a second time, offering the watch at a slightly lower price, as well as a smaller minimum quantity. The new campaign closes January 8, 2021.] Initial thoughts “Microbrands” tend to capitalise on designs that are the flavour of the day, reusing classic sports-watch designs for affordable watches. So amidst its crowdfunded peers, the Fiction One is refreshing. That said, the mystery time display is an old invention, dating to early 19th century when it was invented by French magician Jean-Eugène Robert Houdin.And in the mid 20th century, the Galaxy watch with mystery hands was produced by several brands, most notably LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, and Longines. Fugue takes inspiration from those wristwatches, successfully reinterpreting the idea to create something mod...

Business News: Watches & Wonders Shanghai to Happen September 2020 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin all owned Jul 23, 2020

Business News: Watches & Wonders Shanghai to Happen September 2020

With its Geneva debut in April 2020 cancelled due to the COVID-19 pandemic, the watch fair once known as SIHH is moving to Shanghai. Its organisers have just announced Watches & Wonders Shanghai will take place from September 9-13, 2020 at West Bund Art Center. W&W; Shanghai will see only 11 brands take part, down from 30 at the Geneva event. The exhibiting brands are A. Lange & Söhne, Baume & Mercier, Cartier, IWC Schaffhausen, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Piaget, Roger Dubuis, and Vacheron Constantin – all owned by Swiss luxury group Richemont – as well as independently-owned brands Parmigiani Fleurier and Purnell. Like the original fair in Geneva, the Shanghai event will be invite-only, and will include new product launches, talks, as well as watchmaking classes. Alongside the physical exhibition in Shanghai, W&W; will also unveil the new products on its website. With the Chinese watch market now in the midst of a sharp upturn post-pandemic – evidenced in the results of both Richemont and the Swatch Group – China is likely the single largest national market for luxury watches that is operating close to normal, making the migration of the event from Geneva to Shanghai eminently logical.  

Patek Philippe Introduces the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270J-001 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Jul 14, 2020

Patek Philippe Introduces the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270J-001

After an extended absence, Patek Philippe’s signature perpetual calendar chronograph is once again available in yellow gold with the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270J-001. The new watch joins the platinum and rose gold versions currently in the catalogue, and is the first perpetual calendar chronograph in yellow gold since the ref. 5970J was discontinued in 2009. Initial thoughts The very first Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph powered by an in-house movement, the ref. 5270 was introduced in 2011 but remains under appreciated, primarily because it isn’t one of the earlier perpetual calendar chronograph that are regarded as “iconic” (namely the refs. 5970, 3970, 2499 and 1518). But the ref. 5270 is excellent, or at least very good, in most tangible aspects. It’s a well-made watch with a smartly-constructed, modern movement inside robust-yet-elegant case of that sort that Patek Philippe excels at. And functionally it is also excellent, especially with the slightly larger calendar windows. Admittedly the movement finishing is not quite artisanal, but it is on par with other high-end brands that produce watches in substantial numbers, like Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet. It does costs more than what the competition charges for an equivalent watch, but the value of the Patek Philippe brand is tremendous. The ref. 5270J adds the option of a far more classical look to the line up. The combination of a silver dial and yellow gold case is the ...

Czapek Introduces the Antarctique Sports Watch SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding While May 26, 2020

Czapek Introduces the Antarctique Sports Watch

A marque revived via a crowdfunded effort in 2015, Czapek & Cie. has just announced its first sports watch, the Antarctique. The popularity of luxury-sports watches in steel makes that unsurprising, but the Antarctique is powered by a newly-developed, automatic movement with an interesting construction. Initial thoughts Doubtlessly conceived to cater to the current fad for luxury-sports watches in steel, the Antarctique is unsurprising in terms of design. While the overall look is reminiscent of a variety of watches, most notably the earlier-generation Girard-Perregaux Laureato, it manages to be different enough, in particularly with the C-shaped links. But more important and interesting is the movement inside, the SXH5. It was conceived by a team that includes prominent constructors like Emmanuel Bouchet, an independent watchmaker who is probably best known for the Harry Winston Opus 12, as well as Daniel Martinez, an independent constructor who worked at Sellita, MCT, and Greubel Forsey in the past. The SXH5 A large movement with high-quality features, the SXH5 has an interesting aesthetic that’s slightly inspired by vintage pocket watch movements but is clearly modern. And going by the photos, it also appears to be well finished. But the Antarctique is expensive – its price tag of US$18,900 is almost exactly the same as that of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding. While the Antarctique probably has a more compelling and unusual movement, the Czapek brand ...

In-Depth: The Bespoke (and Custom) Experience at Andersen Genève SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin May 2, 2020

In-Depth: The Bespoke (and Custom) Experience at Andersen Genève

When applied to watches, “bespoke” brings to mind the ultra-complicated timepieces made for famous historical figures like James W. Packard and Henry Graves Jr., who each commissioned a succession of one-off watches that pushed the technical boundaries of watchmaking in the early decades of the 20th century. One of those watches, the landmark Patek Philippe “Supercomplication” made for Graves, long held the title of most-expensive-watch ever sold. In the modern day, watchmakers continue to create unique watches. Patek Philippe does it quietly for its best clients, while Vacheron Constantin is more public with its Atelier Cabinotiers department that specialises in customised timepieces. Similarly, artisanal independent watchmakers like Voutilainen often accept commissions. But as a collector, how easy is it to dip your toes into the waters of bespoke or custom watchmaking? This is my maiden experience with such watches, which started at Andersen Geneve some six years ago. Svend at work Industrial vs. artisanal I first wanted to get involved in the creation of a custom watch in 2014. I already knew then it could not merely be changing colours on the dial or hands, neither could it be an engraved monogram. What I wanted was a truly unique world-time watch with a Louis Cottier-type mechanism. At the same time, I had a certain budget in mind, so I approached independent watchmakers that made watches I liked, but with steel cases. Somewhat naively, I thought adding a ti...

All That’s New at Watches & Wonders 2020 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Égérie collection Les Cabinotiers Apr 24, 2020

All That’s New at Watches & Wonders 2020

The virtual doors of Watches & Wonders 2020 are now open – here’s an overview of all notable new releases from the exhibiting brands. This page will be updated as additional watches are launched in the coming months, so bookmark this. A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Datomatic in white gold Zeitwerk Minute Repeater in white gold Cartier Cartier Privé Tank Asymétrique Maillon de Cartier Pasha de Cartier Santos-Dumont XL Santos-Dumont Limited Editions Santos de Cartier ADLC Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 Portugieser Chronograph 3716 Portugieser Monopusher Chronograph Edition “Laureus Sport for Good” Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Collection Master Control Memovox and Master Control Memovox Timer Montblanc 1858 Automatic 24H 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 100 Heritage Manufacture Pulsograph Panerai Luminor Marina Carbotech PAM01661 Luminor Marina Titanio DMLS PAM01117 Luminor Marina Fibratech PAM01663 Submersible EcoPangaea Tourbillon GMT PAM01108 Parmigiani Toric Tourbillon Red Gold Slate Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Vacheron Constantin Égérie collection Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-Seconds Chronograph “Tempo” Les Cabinotiers Astronomical Grand Complication “Ode to Music” Les Cabinotiers “The Singing Birds” Overseas Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph  

Uncommon Longevity – The Story of Golay Fils & Stahl of Geneva SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin producing or retailing highly Feb 17, 2020

Uncommon Longevity – The Story of Golay Fils & Stahl of Geneva

Auction catalogues often offer early 20th century pocket watches of impressive, refined quality that bear the names of unfamiliar Geneva firms. Amongst the most prominent are Agassiz, Ed. Koehn, Haas Neveux, and Touchon. Despite their obscurity now, these brands were once amongst the best in the world – arguably the equals of Patek Philippe or Vacheron Constantin, producing or retailing highly complicated and extra-thin timepieces. All of them, save for one, are now defunct and long forgotten. In fact, most went under long before the Quartz Crisis. A single name has survived and prospered while remaining a family business, by evolving its business over the centuries – Golay Fils & Stahl. A familiar name As an avid reader of auction catalogues, I had come across Golay Fils & Stahl on several occasions, and the name stayed with me because of the high quality of firm’s pocket watches (Haas Neveux being another). Then in November 2019, Phillips sold the Patek Philippe ref. 3652 minute-repeating wristwatch. Not only was the watch relatively recent, having been made in 1985, it was a unique reference powered by a reworked vintage movement – and signed “Golay Fils & Stahl” on the dial. Few retailers get their name on modern Patek Philippe watches, let alone a one-off, custom timepiece. It piqued my curiosity. The ref. 3652 – essentially a Calatrava ref. 96 minute repeater By sheer chance that curiosity was satisfied when Melissa Wolfgang Amenc got in touch after see...

Interview: Julien Tornare, CEO of Zenith SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin where his last job Jan 3, 2020

Interview: Julien Tornare, CEO of Zenith

In mid 2017, Julien Tornare, became chief executive at Zenith, maker of the famed El Primero chronograph. This came after a 17-year stint at Vacheron Constantin, where his last job was running the brand’s operations in Asia, its most important market by a large margin. At Zenith, Mr Tornare was called upon to revitalise a brand that had been drifting for some time. Zenith was clinging on too tightly to the past – namely the landmark El Primero – to the exclusion of everything else the brand had achieved. The diversification beyond the El Primero is exemplified by the Defy, a product crucial to the brand’s resurgence. The collection swiftly became a bestseller since its debut two years ago, but also boasts a milestone for the industry at large with the radical silicon oscillator in the Defy Inventor. The Defy Inventor During the El Primero 50th anniversary event that took place late last year in Singapore, I sat down with Mr Tornare to discuss his vision for Zenith, and how his start-up approach to running the brand has helped propel it into the new decade. The interview was edited for length and clarity. It has been two years since you took over at Zenith. Do you think you’re past the toughest part of the job? The toughest was probably at the beginning; getting the team on board with my vision was the most challenging. You can only develop a brand when you have everybody with you, and when you come from an entirely different brand, that takes some time. The firs...

The SJX Christmas Wishlist SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Dec 23, 2019

The SJX Christmas Wishlist

I rarely write “listicles” but the holidays are always a good excuse for one: a run through of the year’s wants. It’s a wish list of watches I desire, and in a handful of instance bought, and not about the most significant or notable watches (which will be published just before the year’s end). Surprisingly the list is a pretty short one, and heavier on affordable watches than top of the line ones. That’s perhaps reflective of both the state of the industry – often saturated and occasionally unimaginative – and the fact that I’ve seen quite a lot. That being said, sometimes it’s the simple and affordable that surprises, like the Tudor P01, or something from an expected corner, like the Chanel Monsieur Edition Noire. High hopes Even for a price-is-no-object list there are barely any must-haves. The list of candidates was long, but most were crossed out for one reason or another. That also in part reflects the fact that the more expensive a watch is, the higher the standards it should be held to. The Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, for instance, is exceptionally interesting and smartly conceived, in fact, it’s one of the year’s best watch in terms of mechanics, but the design is a bit of a let down. Even in a more affordable tier of complicated watches, the wants come with caveats. The Hermes L’Heure de la Lune is unconventional and poetic, typically Hermes in style. Though its face is elegant, the case profile is less so; it is a ...