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Results for GMT & World Time

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GMT & World Time

The traveller complications: Rolex's 1954 GMT hand and Louis Cottier's 1937 World Time mechanism.

Value Buys Pre-Owned from Establishment Brands SJX Watches
Rolex Jul 30, 2024

Value Buys Pre-Owned from Establishment Brands

Whilst many dream of owning a watch from one of the great Swiss watchmakers, the price points at retail can be discouraging for those on a budget. So where does this leave the enthusiast who wants to dip his or her toes into the world of high-end watchmaking? A little digging into lesser-known models, which we present here. We’re not just discussing the most inexpensive watches from Rolex and the “Holy Trinity”, since that’s too obvious and mundane. So instead, we bring you five watches that are not necessarily the most affordable, but amongst the best value propositions. Majority of the five presented below are ancestors of current-production models, and one is a less popular recent launch. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116509, first-generation with meteorite dial Rolex is well known for dials in a variety of unique materials such as mineral stones and mother of pearl. Arguably more exotic, at least at the time of its launch, was meteorite. Whilst it’s not exactly known when the first meteorite dials were introduced by Rolex, the material has a constant in its catalogue for some two decades now. The latest meteorite additions to the line were the Daytona models of 2021, but the Daytona has in fact sported a meteorite dial before. In the early 2004 the material was combined with white gold for the first Daytona with a meteorite dial. It was available on a leather strap or a white gold bracelet, which is the version to go for. This first-generation Rolex ref. 1165...

10 Small Watch Brands We're Paying Attention to in 2025 Teddy Baldassarre
Jul 29, 2024

10 Small Watch Brands We're Paying Attention to in 2025

In recent years there has been a flurry of small watch brands that have succeeded in making a big impact on the watch-collector community and in the overall watch industry. With new watchmakers coming on the scene from almost every corner of the world, with styles ranging from vintage to traditional to avant-garde, which of these brands are worth paying attention to, and why? We asked two veteran watch-industry watchers and commentators (and regular fixtures on TeddyBaldassarre.com) - contributing writer Blake Buettner (former managing editor of Worn & Wound and founder of The Deep Track); and our Director of Editorial Content, Mark Bernardo (former senior editor of WatchTime magazine) - to name five small watch brands that are on their radar in 2025.  Formex (Switzerland) Formex is, in many ways, an interesting brand and manufacturer. Its design DNA is quite bold and won’t be to everyone’s taste, but it’s matured quite nicely in recent years, though the true story of this brand goes deeper still. Formex designs and manufactures many of the components used in the case and bracelet, from a quick-adjustment system to a full case suspension (explained in this article), so there’s plenty to appreciate when it comes to mechanical ingenuities. On top of that, Formex is aggressively experimental when it comes to working with novel materials, offering rarities like forged carbon cases and stone dials across its lineup. What I love about Formex is the company...

Nivada Reintroduces the Chronosport, One of the Brand’s Rarest Historical References Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen rose from Jul 29, 2024

Nivada Reintroduces the Chronosport, One of the Brand’s Rarest Historical References

Four years ago, like a phoenix, Nivada Grenchen rose from the ashes to reintroduce two of its most famous watches: the Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver and the Antarctic. Shortly after, the Depthmaster and the F77 re-emerged, the latter joining the integrated bracelet sports watch craze that has gripped the industry over the last decade. In 2023, in collaboration with Fratello, they launched their Racing Chronograph, a 38mm tonneau-shaped, manually wound watch deeply inspired by the automotive world, mixing many features and design cues from Nivada models from its back catalog. And now, for 2024, Nivada Grenchen is re-introducing the Chronosport, one of their rarest historical pieces. Only ten original Nivada Grenchen Chronosport watches from the 1970s were ever produced, making this model quite sought after by collectors. That is precisely why they have decided to reintroduce it, allowing more enthusiasts to own one. This new model utilizes the same 38mm stainless steel case as the Racing Chronograph. However, the similarities end there. Instead of an outer tachymeter scale printed on the bezel, it is replaced by a unidirectional diver’s bezel. The tachymeter scale is printed on the outer edge of the dial under the double-domed sapphire crystal. The Chronosport’s dial was designed by Jean Singer, who was responsible for the dials on the Omega Speedmaster racing and the Heuer Skipper. Both watches are famous for their good looks and functionality. Mr. Singer knows a thin...

Introducing: The Certina DS Action Diver Chrono Fratello
Certina DS Action Diver Chrono Jul 29, 2024

Introducing: The Certina DS Action Diver Chrono

The Certina DS Action Diver Chrono is here just in time for the summer holidays. It’s a refreshing modern watch that follows the same design path as the DS Action Diver. It also takes a sharp detour from the trend of smaller diameters and thinner cases. This is a big, bold watch! I’m happy to […] Visit Introducing: The Certina DS Action Diver Chrono to read the full article.

Introducing: The 38mm Nivada Grenchen Chronosport With Either Yellow Or White Lume Fratello
Nivada Grenchen Chronosport Jul 27, 2024

Introducing: The 38mm Nivada Grenchen Chronosport With Either Yellow Or White Lume

Since the brand’s 2018 resurrection, Nivada Grenchen has produced some interesting, tasty, vintage-inspired watches. This month, it’s time for yet another retro timepiece to make you feel warm and nostalgic. The source of inspiration for the latest release never left the prototype phase after Nivada produced an estimated 20 examples in the 1970s. But I’d […] Visit Introducing: The 38mm Nivada Grenchen Chronosport With Either Yellow Or White Lume to read the full article.

Our Favorite Releases of the Year (So Far…) Worn & Wound
Sinn U50 HYDRO I had Jul 26, 2024

Our Favorite Releases of the Year (So Far…)

Well, we’re a little more than halfway through 2024, so we thought it would be a good time to ask our contributors about their favorite watches of the year to this point. It’s been, to put it mildly, a strange year. Coming off 2023, a watch release year that saw an almost never ending string of hits, 2024 seems a bit more sedate. But the highs, as they say, have been high, and there are specific sectors of the watch world that seem to be thriving with creativity and pushing serious boundaries.  The selections here from our staff and contributors run the gamut, as always, from large brands to small, affordable to luxury. We’d love to hear from you: let us know what your favorite releases of 2024 are in the comments below.  Zach Weiss – Sinn U50 HYDRO I had a bit of a hard time picking a watch for the topic, and to be honest, it’s because I haven’t been overly blown away by anything yet this year. Not that they’ve been bad; there just hasn’t been much that has really tempted me personally. That’s probably a good thing, but, as I pondered releases, one watch eventually stood out: the Sinn U50 Hydro. The Sinn U50 line was already a great success for the brand, bringing their distinctly modern, tool watch language to a manageably-sized dive watch. But, this year when they added their HYDRO technology to the package, it made it a watch that truly could only be a Sinn, and likely appreciated by only devoted Sinn enthusiasts. For those unaware, Sinn’s HYDRO w...

Introducing – The Junghans Meister Chronoscope in its Sportiest Attire, now with Steel Bracelet Monochrome
Junghans Meister Chronoscope Jul 26, 2024

Introducing – The Junghans Meister Chronoscope in its Sportiest Attire, now with Steel Bracelet

Once one of the largest watch companies in the world, German brand Junghans was founded in 1861 by Erhard Junghans and his brother-in-law Jakob Zeller-Tobler and started as a clockmaker. Mostly famous for its collaboration with Swiss Bauhaus designer Max Bill, the company kept on bringing nicely designed and accessible watches over the years. Aside […]

Introducing – Hajime Asaoka Revives Extinct Japanese Brand Takano and Presents the Chateau Nouvelle Chronometer Monochrome
Casio ns but Jul 25, 2024

Introducing – Hajime Asaoka Revives Extinct Japanese Brand Takano and Presents the Chateau Nouvelle Chronometer

We’ve said it on multiple occasions but the world of watches isn’t limited to Switzerland, or to an extent, to Europe. There are fascinating watchmakers all over the globe, and Japan is one of the most prolific countries when it comes to independent watchmaking. One of them is Hajime Asaoka, not only the man behind […]

Top 5 Vintage Inspired Watches Worn & Wound
Tudor s success Jul 24, 2024

Top 5 Vintage Inspired Watches

Vintage-inspired watches have been popular for a long time and with good reason. When a design is strong enough to stand the test of time, why shouldn’t it be revived? Look at Tudor’s success with the Black Bay, Oris with their Diver 65, and Doxa with their numerous Sub models. What about designs that originated in the 80s? Can they be considered vintage? Think about it: 1980 is as far away from us as 1936 was from 1980. That’s three full years before World War II even started! So, if anything made in the 1930s was considered vintage in the 1980s, most assuredly, things made in the 1980s are considered vintage now. If any of you feel old after reading that, here’s a list of 5 super-cool watches to make you feel young again. Vintage-inspired watches have been popular for a long time and with good reason. When a design is strong enough to stand the test of time, why shouldn’t it be revived? Look at Tudor’s success with the Black Bay, Oris with their Diver 65, and Doxa with their numerous Sub models. What about designs that originated in the 80s? Can they be considered vintage? Think about it: 1980 is as far away from us as 1936 was from 1980. That’s three full years before World War II even started! So, if anything made in the 1930s was considered vintage in the 1980s, most assuredly, things made in the 1980s are considered vintage now. If any of you feel old after reading that, here’s a list of 5 super-cool watches to make you feel young again. The post Top ...

Konstantin Chaykin’s Latest Joker Sports a Skeletonised Dial SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Jul 24, 2024

Konstantin Chaykin’s Latest Joker Sports a Skeletonised Dial

An unusual variation of the brand’s bestseller, the Joker Fiat Lux has a skeletonised dial revealing the signature Konstantin Chaykin “rolling eye” module that’s been decorated by hand. Fiat lux is Latin for “let there be light”, and a reference to the see-through dial. It’s limited to 38 pieces and intended for the brand’s retailer in China, West Wood Time in Beijing. Initial thoughts Konstantin Chaykin’s Joker has become a cult classic of sorts and the brand’s strongest seller by far. Since the launch of the original Joker in 2017, it has evolved into an entire collection known as Wristmon, short for “wrist monster”. The brand has put out many, many different Wristmons since, though the original is arguably the purest (while some variants are admittedly gimmicky). Being based on the original, the Joker Fiat Lux stands out. It is almost the same as the original, with identical dimensions, design, and functions, but with a skeletonised dial and an exhibition back, both of which make it more aesthetically pleasing than the original. The dial is skeletonised to show off the display module The Joker Fiat Lux is priced similar to comparable past Wristmon models. It’s relatively affordable for a distinctive and unique example of unconventional independent watchmaking – seen that from that perspective, it is good value. Though the base movement is a no-frills ETA 2824-2, but the display module is built by Chaykin and furthermore hand finished. The ine...

The Cartier Santos Dumont: Minimalism To The Max? (Hands On) WatchAdvice
Cartier Santos Dumont Minimalism Jul 24, 2024

The Cartier Santos Dumont: Minimalism To The Max? (Hands On)

The Cartier Santos Dumont is a watch beautifully frozen in time – aesthetically and functionally true to the original, and it’s still as relevant as ever in 2024. What We Love Classic and timeless design Thin, elegant, and comfortable on the wrist Movement is smooth and appropriate for a dress piece What We Don’t Wears larger than anticipated (due to my small wrists) The pin buckle is finicky at times and hard to adjust A display case back would be great! Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Ah, Cartier: One of the pillars of modern watchmaking as we know it. Even though they are a High Jewellery Maison, their knowledge of horology is storied and epic, and through their achievements, sparked some of the most important innovations in the history of this beautiful art. I’ve known about Cartier and their reputation my whole life, but other than occasionally peering into their boutique and looking through the window, I always thought my opinion of them would never extend further than their occasional appearances in rom-coms, music, and other pop culture. The Cartier Santos Dumont Getting into the watch business gave me a whole new perspective on what I knew about the Parisian brand. Getting into Watch Advice also allowed me to take a massive deep dive into Cartier’s history, which naturally garnered a new respect for them. The Santos was the first ever wristwatch? How crazy is that? I won’t nerd you o...