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Zenith Presents Its Unique Piece for the TimeForArt Auction Worn & Wound
Zenith Presents Oct 7, 2026

Zenith Presents Its Unique Piece for the TimeForArt Auction

In 2022, the inaugural TimeForArt auction took place in partnership with Phillips, marking the first and only benefit watch auction to support contemporary art and artists. In its opening year, it raised $1.2 million for the Swiss Institute’s exhibitions, public programs, education initiatives, and community engagement. Its next edition returns this December as part of The New York Watch Auction XV, now featuring a whopping 25 watch brands up from the original 17, including Zenith with a unique Defy Chronograph. For this special edition going toward a worthy cause, Zenith has once again teamed up with USM Modular Furniture. The pair first collaborated in 2025 on four ultra colorful Defy Chronograph models inspired by the timeless and playful design language of the distinctive furniture. Here, the watchmaker drew on the brand’s patented USM Haller modular system and married it with the architecture of the Defy Chronograph. For the upcoming charity auction, the duo continues to use the model as the canvas, but this time, they take a more subtle and subdued approach to the design.The foundation remains the same with the Defy Chronograph’s compact 37mm stainless-steel case, octagonal geometry, fourteen-sided bezel, and the stainless-steel “ladder” bracelet. Like we saw in the original collaboration, there are small easter eggs throughout, like the tip of the chronograph seconds hand that’s fitted with a miniature USM Haller ball joint and provides a subtle link bac...

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True Classics Never Go Out Of Style: Four New Reissues Of The Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph Fratello
Ebel Oct 7, 2026

True Classics Never Go Out Of Style: Four New Reissues Of The Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph

Storytelling has long been a powerful way to connect watch enthusiasts with a timepiece, but only a few watches immediately capture the spirit of an era. While many brands lean on obscure historical tales, the Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph has a wealth of stories that embody the 1980s. It is one of the defining chronographs […] Visit True Classics Never Go Out Of Style: Four New Reissues Of The Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph to read the full article.

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Onwer’s Review: the Favre Leuba Raider Harpoon 42 Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Oct 1, 2026

Onwer’s Review: the Favre Leuba Raider Harpoon 42

Favre Leuba is a slightly curious brand. Despite being able to trace its origins back to 1737 (beaten only by Blancpain), the brand has undergone a succession of relaunches in recent decades as it attempts to re-forge its identity. As a result, it doesn’t perhaps register on the radar of many watch enthusiasts in the same way as other storied names. On their website, Favre Leuba are rightly proud to present a timeline of important events in their history, and it’s worth checking out, but the abridged version begins as follows: Abraham Favre begins making watches in Le Locle in 1737. The family business becomes A. Favre & Fils in 1792 under the stewardship of Abraham’s son and two grandsons. By 1815, the next (fourth) generation of the Favre family joins forces with August Leuba, and the Favre-Leuba name is seen for the first time. Many important developments are scattered through the next century and a half, including single-button chronographs, altimeters and barometers, and collaboration with Jaeger-LeCoultre. As was the case with many Swiss watch brands, the Quartz Crisis had a severe impact on Favre Leuba. The Favre family’s eighth generation was the last to be involved in the business before ownership was first transferred to Benedom SA, then LVMH, and Valentin SA. In 2011 the Titan Company Limited took ownership, and it was under their stewardship that the watch I’m writing about today was made. The Raider series of watches was influenced by cushion cased w...

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Introducing: The Patek Philippe Reference 5978P - A Brand New Perpetual Calendar Chronograph! (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Reference 5978P – Oct 1, 2026

Introducing: The Patek Philippe Reference 5978P - A Brand New Perpetual Calendar Chronograph! (Live Pics)

Reporting directly from Milan, we have a brand-new watch from Patek Philippe, and man, this is a big one. For only the seventh time in the 187 years of the world's most important high-end watchmaker, we have a new perpetual calendar chronograph! The 1518 was shown in 1941, the 2499 in 1951, the 3970 in 1986, the 5020 (forgot about that one, didnt ya!?) in 1994, the 5970 in 2004, and the 5270 in 2011 – which means this new watch, the reference 5978P, is only the second to be shown in my entire career covering this space. So you can imagine how excited I was to hear about it! Say hello to the 5978P. For only the seventh time in 187 years, we have a new perpetual calendar chronograph!  What you're looking at is something so familiar, and yet so different. It is the first hand-wound perpetual chronograph to feature an instantaneous calendar mechanism, all shown in windows along a curved arch at the top of the dial, making the watch immensely legible, much more so than any previous PPC to date. The instantaneous jumping – which happens within 30 milliseconds – is one heck of a party trick.  If you're thinking this looks like something you may have seen in the 5208 or 5308 Grand Complications, you'd be exactly right. The long and short is that Patek has taken that ingenious instantaneous perpetual calendar mechanism from its big, big dog watches and applied it to the base chronograph caliber CH 29-535 that powers Patek's finest watches. It makes a shocking amount of sen...

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TUDOR Black Bay Chrono “Panda” (M79360N) Review: On Leather & On a Woman’s Wrist⁠ WatchRider
Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Panda” Sep 27, 2026

TUDOR Black Bay Chrono “Panda” (M79360N) Review: On Leather & On a Woman’s Wrist⁠

Here is my honest opinion after years of collecting and wearing watches: men’s watches are just better. And no, 41mm is not too big for a woman’s wrist. I’ve had this watch for a few years now, and honestly, our relationship has only gotten better with time. It isn’t my everyday beat-it-up-and-forget-it watch; I wear it occasionally. But whenever I open my watch box and pull it out, it still gives me that instant “oh yeah, this is the one” feeling. Let’s start with the face, because that is what hooked me in the first place. This specific model is famously known as the “Panda,” and it earns every bit of that adorable nickname. You’ve got a crisp, opaline white dial contrasted against two deep, matte-black sub-dials. It is clean, legible, and visually balanced in a way that tickles the design-obsessed part of my brain. Add in TUDOR’s signature snowflake hands and the subtle red accent on the tip of the chronograph hand, plus the red depth rating text, and you have a watch face that looks like it belongs on a vintage racing grid in the 1970s. It has personality. It doesn’t scream for attention, but if someone catches a glance of it across a table, they know it’s something special. It’s powered by the manufacture Calibre MT5813, which boasts a 70-hour power reserve and a column-wheel chronograph mechanism with a vertical clutch. It is also water-resistant to 200 meters. Am I ever going to strap on a scuba tank and dive 200 meters into the freezing ...

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TUDOR Black Bay Chrono “Panda” (M79360N) Review: On Leather & On a Woman’s Wrist WatchRider
Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Panda” Sep 27, 2026

TUDOR Black Bay Chrono “Panda” (M79360N) Review: On Leather & On a Woman’s Wrist

Here is my honest opinion after years of collecting and wearing watches: men’s watches are just better. And no, 41mm is not too big for a woman’s wrist. I’ve had this watch for a few years now, and honestly, our relationship has only gotten better with time. It isn’t my everyday beat-it-up-and-forget-it watch; I wear it occasionally. But whenever I open my watch box and pull it out, it still gives me that instant “oh yeah, this is the one” feeling. Let’s start with the face, because that is what hooked me in the first place. This specific model is famously known as the “Panda,” and it earns every bit of that adorable nickname. You’ve got a crisp, opaline white dial contrasted against two deep, matte-black sub-dials. It is clean, legible, and visually balanced in a way that tickles the design-obsessed part of my brain. Add in TUDOR’s signature snowflake hands and the subtle red accent on the tip of the chronograph hand, plus the red depth rating text, and you have a watch face that looks like it belongs on a vintage racing grid in the 1970s. It has personality. It doesn’t scream for attention, but if someone catches a glance of it across a table, they know it’s something special. It’s powered by the manufacture Calibre MT5813, which boasts a 70-hour power reserve and a column-wheel chronograph mechanism with a vertical clutch. It is also water-resistant to 200 meters. Am I ever going to strap on a scuba tank and dive 200 meters into the freezing ...

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Bone-Chilling News: Charlie Adds Five Updated Concordia GMT Watches To Its Lineup Fratello
Sep 19, 2026

Bone-Chilling News: Charlie Adds Five Updated Concordia GMT Watches To Its Lineup

Arctic surfing — why not? And why not do it in style? Charlie, a small independent watch brand from Paris, adds five updated Concordia GMT watches to its lineup, and not only are they adventure-proof, but they also have a certain je ne sais quoi flair. It must be the subtle dial colors of the […] Visit Bone-Chilling News: Charlie Adds Five Updated Concordia GMT Watches To Its Lineup to read the full article.

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Auctions: Rare And Unique White Gold Cartier Wristwatch Fetches Record $3.4 Million At Hong Kong Auction Hodinkee
Cartier Wristwatch Fetches Record $3.4 Sep 18, 2026

Auctions: Rare And Unique White Gold Cartier Wristwatch Fetches Record $3.4 Million At Hong Kong Auction

A Cartier Cheich, a rare wristwatch awarded as a prize to consecutive Paris-Dakar Rally winners, sold for a record $3.4 million in Hong Kong, becoming the most expensive Cartier wristwatch sold at auction. The record price underscores the surging interest among collectors and speculators for rare models and designs by the Paris-based watch and jewelry maison. One of only five known examples of the Cheich, the watch was produced by Cartier as a one-off, unique piece in 2010, cased in white gold and powered by a quartz movement.  Sold by Sotheby's on the first day of its 'Important Watches' auction in Hong Kong on Friday, the watch spurred a nine-minute bidding war with online, telephone and in-person bidders pushing the price to HK$26,520,000 including fees or about $3,413,124, Sotheby's said in a statement. The result eclipses the $2 million paid for a London Cartier Crash from 1991 at Christie's Geneva auction in May. That watch bested another Crash sold by Sotheby's just weeks before for about $1.99 million.  Cartier Cheich in white gold sold for about $3.4 million at Sotheby's Hong Kong auction.Image: Sotheby's Founded in 1978 by motorcycle racer Thierry Sabine, the Paris-Dakar Rally was a legendary motor sports race of endurance, navigation and mechanical engineering, spanning some 10,000 kilometers (6,214 miles) from the French capital across the Sahara desert to Dakar, Senegal. An early sponsor of the race, Cartier and the brand's then-president, Alain-Dominique P...

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No Rush, Here’s The Anoma A1 Core Collection In Abyss Blue And Stone Gray Fratello
Anoma A1 Core Collection Sep 18, 2026

No Rush, Here’s The Anoma A1 Core Collection In Abyss Blue And Stone Gray

Microbrand watch releases can often be both fun and frustrating at the same time. You get all excited about the original design, the attractive price point, and the brand’s sympathetic founder. However, if there’s only a limited number of pieces available or a tight order window, you need to decide quickly, and that’s not always […] Visit No Rush, Here’s The Anoma A1 Core Collection In Abyss Blue And Stone Gray to read the full article.

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In-Depth - The new Rolex Perpetual Padellone, The Return of an Icon now with Annual Calendar and Dynapulse (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Rolex Perpetual Padellone Sep 15, 2026

In-Depth - The new Rolex Perpetual Padellone, The Return of an Icon now with Annual Calendar and Dynapulse (Incl. Video)

It is not often that Rolex introduces a new watch outside of the industry’s main exhibition, Watches and Wonders (or Baselworld before it). In fact, in recent years, it has only happened on very rare occasions, such as the release of the Daytona Le Mans, the record-breaking Deepsea Challenge in titanium or the Deepsea D-Blue […]

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Talking Watches: With Pusha T -  On Rolex, Rap, And The Luxury Of Time Hodinkee
Cartier bust-downs are not simply Sep 8, 2026

Talking Watches: With Pusha T -  On Rolex, Rap, And The Luxury Of Time

In a Pusha T verse, every detail is chosen with purpose. Watches have long been a constant in his lyrics–they are part status symbol, part cultural shorthand, and always a reflection of how closely he pays attention. This kind of specificity is central to his writing, and it is also the clearest way into a watch collection that is not only bold in appearance, but governed by a set of standards. He describes himself as a student of culture, and over the years, that knowledge shaped a specific set of rules. Pusha buys through authorized channels, favors factory-set stones, and rejects aftermarket work. His lyrics about ruined Pateks and Cartier bust-downs are not simply jokes; he sees them as a kind of tutorial on what to do and what to avoid. Many of his watches are unapologetically gem-set, but the distinction is not between understated and extravagant. It is between an original idea and an imitation of one. Pusha's collection of Rolexes he brought that day. Then there is the waiting. Pusha named Daytona for what the watch represented to him: the luxury of taking the time required to get something right. The same principle now defines how he collects. Some watches arrived when they could still be bought from a display case. Others took years of patience. The watches on the table connect those two eras, revealing a collector whose access may have changed, but whose standards have not. This is Talking Watches with Pusha T. Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 16618LN With Black Dial...

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AWCo and Squale Return With 60 More NOS Blancpain-Cased Divers Worn & Wound
Blancpain Cased Divers Sep 4, 2026

AWCo and Squale Return With 60 More NOS Blancpain-Cased Divers

In 2020, Squale teamed up with Amsterdam Watch Company for a truly memorable collaboration: two “Fifty Fathoms” divers using NOS cases from the 1950s, originally manufactured by Squale for Blancpain (technically, this was pre-Squale, which was established in 1959, so the cases would have been made under Von Büren SA). It’s a unique type of watch that only pops up once every few years, if that. NOS cases make them part vintage, part modern. That’s always intriguing, but even more so when the cases come from watches that are so coveted, rare, and, frankly, expensive. Priced at around $2k at the time and limited to 60 pieces each, they sold out the same day, leaving many collectors, such as yours truly, wishing they had pulled the trigger a little faster. In 2020, however, AWCo teased that more would be coming, noting that Squale had access to 180 NOS cases in total, not just the 120 used for those first two editions. That left 60 more for a third. Well, that day has come with the launch of the AWCo x Squale Milbino. A logical but no less exciting addition to the series, the Milbino takes inspiration from mil-spec Fifty Fathoms watches. The telltale feature, which is hard to miss, is the moisture indicator on the dial. Created in the 1950s as a safety feature for military divers, it would change color if moisture breached the case seals, quickly letting the diver know that their watch had been compromised. A cool, practical detail that has since become collector catn...

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Introducing - The A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split is back in Platinum with a Rhodium-Coloured Dial Monochrome
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 4, 2026

Introducing - The A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split is back in Platinum with a Rhodium-Coloured Dial

We’ve said it before: not all chronographs are created equal, and few extend the limits of mechanical short-time measurement as far as the A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split. Since its launch in 2018, this watch has occupied a unique position in modern watchmaking as the only split-seconds chronograph capable of measuring intermediate and comparative […]

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Golden Obsidian for Gérald Genta’s Minute Repeater SJX Watches
Ming having both options Sep 3, 2026

Golden Obsidian for Gérald Genta’s Minute Repeater

One of the most striking watches to debut at Geneva Watch Days is a new variant of Gérald Genta’s Minute Repeater featuring a dial made of Golden Obsidian. In variation from last year’s debut, it’s forgone the glossy black onyx dial in favour of naturally formed volcanic glass. Initial thoughts Beyond the dial the only change is the strap, still with its signature centre-lug though now in a brown calfskin which nicely dresses down the overall package. It’s a perfect example of the brand’s ethos as they expand the collection: methodical, deliberate and measured. Small changes that stack up and give buyers more choice, and the addition of the Golden Obsidian alongside the Onyx shows how one small change can take a watch from classical and serious to relaxed and charming — having both options in the lineup should help satisfy still-healthy demand for stone dials perfectly compliment each other and goes far to round out a healthily expanding lineup for Gérald Genta. Obsidian dial Golden obsidian is a variant of the jet-black volcanic obsidian you’re likely familiar with. It forms naturally when lava cools rapidly and traps microscopic pockets of iron, air and gas bubbles forming organic striations and graining through the glass. These imperfections give golden obsidian its warmth and shimmer, changing dramatically as light hits it from different angles. What it does share with stone is its unique formation, so no two Golden Obsidian dials will be alike. Like wi...

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Introducing - H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Ceramic Alpine Limited Edition Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Sep 2, 2026

Introducing - H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Ceramic Alpine Limited Edition

H. Moser & Cie. and Alpine Motorsports continue their collaboration with a new creation, following the Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Alpine Limited Edition and the more performance-oriented Alpine Drivers and Alpine Mechanics editions. The new Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Ceramic Alpine Limited Edition becomes only the second H. Moser & Cie. watch to use ceramic, after […]

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Alto Returns with the Art 02 SJX Watches
Sep 1, 2026

Alto Returns with the Art 02

Design-forward independent watchmaker Alto has kicked off Geneva Watch Days with its second model, the Art 02. While the most obvious difference is the addition of a matching bracelet, the entire watch has been refined and updated with a smaller case and an upgraded movement. Initial thoughts A dominant trend in independent watchmaking for the past several years has been the veneration of finishing. This focus has given rise to a growing number of overtly traditional time-only watches built and finished to a high standard. Alto belongs a class of design-led independents that promotes a different approach, one focused on how shapes and textures contribute to the wearing experience. This philosophy comes into sharper focus with the brand’s sophomore effort, the Art 02. While visually similar to its predecessor — enough that they would be hard to tell apart by an untrained eye — the Art 02 has been significantly refined and upgraded in several respects. First is the case, which is slightly thicker but much smaller in length and width, and a new proprietary calibre designed specifically for the Art 02. Then there’s the matching titanium bracelet, which is brushed and faceted to create a dazzling display of light and shadow. Surprisingly, the Art 02 is significantly less expensive than its predecessor. In fact, the retail price of €13,100 is just over half that of the Art 01 in “Monochrome Grey.” Considering the new calibre, proprietary bracelet, and similar bill ...

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Introducing: TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph Carbon Limited Edition Hodinkee
TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph Carbon Sep 1, 2026

Introducing: TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph Carbon Limited Edition

What We Know This weekend, Formula 1 returns to Ferrari's home track (for the series, at least) of Monza, and with that return, TAG Heuer is releasing a new version of the eponymous Monza Flyback Chronograph. The watch was originally released in 1976 to celebrate Ferrari's return to the top with the constructors' and drivers' Formula 1 championships, with its black-coated case setting the stage not only for the model's future but also for similar releases from Heuer (and later TAG Heuer). A Monza isn't a Monza unless it's black, so this new release fits the remit perfectly: a 42mm by 15.22mm case in forged carbon, with red accents on the dial. Often known as the Niki Lauda (after the driver who won the title in 1976), the original watch featured a lot of red (and was reissued over a decade ago), though the dial layout has changed significantly from the original. This time, that red has been swapped around, with accents on the minute-counting and chronograph hands, the combination pulsometer and tachymeter flange scale, and the flyback mark at 6 o'clock. The date is still included, moved to 9 o'clock (which in turn puts running seconds at 6 o'clock), but with an angled window. The indices are all printed, and the hands and hour markers use white Super-LumiNova. The watch is powered by the COSC-certified Caliber TH20-12 automatic movement, running at 4Hz. TAG Heuer didn't provide specifications here, but past versions of the Monza with this movement had an 80-hour power rese...

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Introducing: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton 'Milano Blue' in Rose Gold Hodinkee
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Milano Aug 31, 2026

Introducing: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton 'Milano Blue' in Rose Gold

What We Know This morning, just ahead of Geneva Watch Days, Parmigiani Fleurier has unveiled a new limited-edition take on its Tonda PF Skeleton. This new watch does something so many Parmigiani watches do so well, blending several existing elements to create something just a little bit new. In this instance, Parmigiani Fleurier has taken its Milano Blue skeletonized Tonda PF dial and movement—which had previously been available only in platinum—and fitted them to a rose gold Tonda PF case (and bracelet). The Tonda PF case is one of the key arguments in favor of modern Parmigiani Fleurier. At 40mm across and just 8.5mm thick, it's well-sized and thin without feeling slight. Still, for as good as the Tonda PF is, the star of the show here is the movement. The PF777 (which you can read a bit more about here) is an automatic winding caliber developed in-house by Parmigiani Fleurier. Unlike many movements that find their way into skeletonized watches, the PF777 was purpose-built and designed from first principles with skeletonization in mind. The result of this — and of Parmigiani's willingness to not take skeletonization to the absolute extreme, but rather to implement the concept with some modicum of consideration — is a movement that balances aesthetic concerns with practical ones and is all the better for it. A blend of polished, satin-finished, and sandblasted surfaces keeps the PF777 feeling contemporary, and the ground-up design means the watch avoids many of th...

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Go Big or Go Home: Fears Adds Its First High Complication with a QP Worn & Wound
Fears Adds Aug 28, 2026

Go Big or Go Home: Fears Adds Its First High Complication with a QP

Fears has decided to add its first high complication by tackling one of the most complex of them all: the perpetual calendar. Charting new territory seems like just the right way to celebrate the brand’s 10th anniversary since its renaissance in 2016. The introduction of a QP to the flagship Brunswick line isn’t the only headline. The collection gets a new case architecture with wide polished bevels making it the thinnest Brunswick watch in the line at 9.4mm. The Brunswick has been a defining collection for Fears since its introduction in 2017, marking the first mechanical line of the modern era. Yet, the collection is also an homage to the brand’s past with a vintage-inspired cushion shape case, onion crown, and signature sector dial. The design mixes these aesthetics with distinct typography and numerals derived from a piece from the brand’s archives. It only feels fitting that this collection would serve as the foundation for Fears’ first high complication in 180 years.Even with the addition of day, date, month, year, and leap year indications that make up a perpetual calendar, Fears has managed to keep the Brunswick QP compact at just 39mm. When it comes to high complications, the composition of the movement is usually the main limiting factor when it comes to sizing. Here, we can thank the Dubois Depraz perpetual calendar module, atop a hand-finished Sellita SW300 as its base movement. This caliber has been modified specifically for this watch, giving it its...

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Introducing - The Hanhart MAD Preventor HD12, Launching a new 36mm Case Monochrome
Aug 28, 2026

Introducing - The Hanhart MAD Preventor HD12, Launching a new 36mm Case

Last year, Hanhart introduced the Preventor HD12 as its vision of a robust and versatile everyday watch. Positioned alongside the brand’s historically inspired pilot’s watches and chronographs, the series offered a compact case with enhanced surface hardness and a straightforward time-only display. The watch now returns in a smaller format as a limited edition presented […]

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Hands On: Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Ref. 5236P-011 “Gradient Silver” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Ref 5236P-011 Aug 28, 2026

Hands On: Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Ref. 5236P-011 “Gradient Silver”

Patek Philippe’s latest take on its flagship perpetual calendar is the In-Line Perpetual Calendar ref. 5236P-011 with a “gradient silver” dial. Though a cosmetic update to a model that’s only been in production since 2021, the new dial is unexpectedly appealing, giving the watch a striking different feel from its predecessors. Patek Philippe’s most advanced calendar movement, the cal. 31-260 PS QL inside the ref. 5236P is a latest-generation base movement matched with a newly-developed perpetual calendar module. The movement is now in the third generation of the reference; the ref. 5236P-011 replaces the ref. 5236P-010 with a “rose gilt” dial that was only in the catalogue for two years. Initial thoughts The ref. 5236P-011 is a new face for an existing model. Though the design remains unchanged, the dial finish that darkens towards the edges gives it a more modern feel. The composite strap adds to the modern feel, though the strap might be a bit too sporty for the watch. Paradoxically, the smoked dial finish also brings to mind aged or “tropical” dials on vintage watches. The rest of the watch stays the same, but it’s a good one. The ref. 5236P is an impressive watch in both technical and physical terms – it’s the brand’s most advanced perpetual calendar and also its largest. The size and weight are reassuring, and actually bring to mind complicated models from a rival brand from Germany. But the case is made up of lots of flat surfaces and entir...

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These are 9 Under the Radar Enamel Dials You Should Know Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin Jaquet Droz Aug 27, 2026

These are 9 Under the Radar Enamel Dials You Should Know

Probably one of the proudest informal titles I’ve garnered in my nearly 15-year career in the watch industry is “the resident enamel girl.” As a refresher, I fell in love with the artform in a hands-on workshop during a press trip several years ago and have gone on to complete three different apprenticeships in Switzerland studying the craft. I have an immense appreciation not only for the beauty of enamel dials but also the meticulous creative process behind them. Enamel dials were long held in esteem as one of the elements of watchmaking reserved for the elite, much like high complications. It’s no small feat to bring a well-executed enamel dial to life. The materials, tools, machines, and the expert level of training for the craftspeople were once gripped tightly by top brands like Patek Philippe, Breguet, Vacheron Constantin, Jaquet Droz, and Van Cleef & Arpels. Let me be clear – in practice, brand clout ultimately does not correlate to the best enamel dials. There’s a particular maison not named here (and who I will not call out by name) but who is one of the biggest names in the industry, with every resource at their disposal, and one of their recent and highly popular enamel dials is unbearably mediocre if you give it a look under a loupe. Thankfully, the collector community is starting to come around to this notion that enamel from independent brands can be equally good if not better than the old guard. If you need further proof, here are nine under the...

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Hands-On: The Sylvain Pinaud Tourbillon Hodinkee
Aug 21, 2026

Hands-On: The Sylvain Pinaud Tourbillon

Earlier in April, right before the kickoff of Watches and Wonders, Swiss independent Sylvain Pinaud announced his third major creation since the founding of his workshop in 2018. First came his Monopoussoir Chronograph, then arguably the more recognizable time-only Origine series. This third entry in the collection is the pragmatically named Sylvain Pinaud Tourbillon—any guesses what complication this watch holds?  I kid, but the new watches are an absolute treat to see and handle in person. Even though the intense wave of new releases from dozens of brands in Geneva may have quickly steered the online conversation away from these new watches toward Jubilee dials and Nautilus desk clocks, these watches did not go unnoticed by collectors. Thirty of them, to be precise. The Sylvain Pinaud Tourbillon was announced in three limited editions of ten pieces each, priced at CHF 180,000, and all three variants sold out within days. But before we get to the new watches, you might be asking what the situation is with the watchmaker these days, given that every decently well-known high-end independent watchmaker seems never to struggle with demand. That's pretty much the case here, too. Long story short, Pinaud and his team of 8 produce around 25 watches per year, and the Origine series has been fully allocated through its planned run through 2027. Given the sell-out of the Tourbillon and the sunsetting of the Origine, it kind of sounds like there isn't much to offer a prospective ...

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First Look - Blancpain Goes Vintage with the new Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary Monochrome
Blancpain Goes Vintage Aug 20, 2026

First Look - Blancpain Goes Vintage with the new Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary

While the fact that the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was one of the earliest dive watches on the market is now well-known, this professional, mostly military-issued model wasn’t the only one produced by the brand. There is another watch in the collection that was created back in 1956, as the civilian counterpart to the Fifty Fathoms […]

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Introducing - IWC Celebrates 140 Years of Mercedes-Benz With A Special Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Proset Monochrome
Ming together Aug 13, 2026

Introducing - IWC Celebrates 140 Years of Mercedes-Benz With A Special Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Proset

Two companies, at the forefront of mechanical innovation, coming together to mark 140 years of history – that’s what IWC’s latest watch is all about. The brand has a long-standing partnership with Mercedes-Benz, exemplified through not only the Mercedes-Benz AMG PETRONAS Formula 1 Team special editions, but also through the various road-car-themed watches. The new […]

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