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Insight: Governors of Minute Repeaters, Sonneries, and Other Striking Watches SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin cal 1731 Jul 17, 2024

Insight: Governors of Minute Repeaters, Sonneries, and Other Striking Watches

Repeaters are one of the most complicated mechanisms in watches and over the years the complication has been refined by successive generations of watchmakers. Now, perhaps more than ever, watchmakers dedicate absolute attention to perfecting the quality, speed, accuracy, and durability of the striking works. Various components are required to chime the tunes of time with hammers and gongs. Paradoxically, amongst the most crucial parts of a chiming watch are those that work quietly, or silently, in the background – the governor. One of the most recent new repeater calibres, the A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Minute Repeater What is a governor? The governor regulates the speed of the striking pattern, in other words the pace of the individual chimes. A repeater movement contains a separate gear train for the repeating works, which are powered by their own smaller, auxiliary spring. The last component of this train consists of the governor. The governor’s task is to introduce resistance in the repeater train, allowing it to be regulated. Therefore, less resistance accelerates the striking speed, while more resistance slows down the repeater chimes. The Vacheron Constantin cal. 1731 with the secondary spring visible between the hammers The fine-tuning of the repeater’s speed is prized as an essential factor in ensuring a perfect series of chimes. If the pace is too fast, the vibrations of the gongs produce jarring overtones that cancel each other out. If too slow, not o...

Christopher Ward Launches a New 38mm Version of The Twelve with the “Ice Cream Collection” Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Launches Jul 15, 2024

Christopher Ward Launches a New 38mm Version of The Twelve with the “Ice Cream Collection”

In recent years, the Windup Watch Fair has played host to a number of notable debuts from some of our favorite watch brands. It’s a great time to launch a watch, after all. With hordes of watch enthusiasts descending on Chicago’s Venue West over the weekend, brands had a captive audience to launch splashy new releases. Christopher Ward, a Windup mainstay for years, keenly understands this, and jumped at the chance this weekend to debut colorful new versions of The Twelve in a new 38mm case size. The enthusiast favorite size rounds out a varied collection of integrated bracelet sports watches that have driven a lot of interest in the brand since they launched a little over a year ago, and Christopher Ward, as always, is having some fun with color in this new batch.  The brand has dubbed these the “Ice Cream Collection” for their bright colors, all of which are inspired by ice cream and thus feel perfectly timed as a summer watch release. The new, cleverly named colors are Biel-Berry, Mint 38, Peach Sellita, and Made in Mangohead. They all feature the now familiar Christopher Ward flag motif repeated across the dial, and come on integrated stainless steel bracelets as well as color matched rubber straps. We had a chance to see these in the metal in Chicago over the weekend, and, pardon the cliche watch writer terminology, the colors really do pop. My personal favorite is easily the Peach dial, but talking to fair attendees over the weekend it was clear that all of t...

Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Jorg’s Picks From Certina, Sinn, And Hublot Fratello
Certina Sinn Jul 15, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Jorg’s Picks From Certina, Sinn, And Hublot

With the summer holidays approaching, it’s time to talk about summer watches. Thomas started this series with his three favorite summer watches at three different price points. We are looking for one pick under €1,000, another under €10,000, and an unlimited-budget option. It seems like a fairly straightforward task, but as it turns out, it’s […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Jorg’s Picks From Certina, Sinn, And Hublot to read the full article.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Excellence Platine: a long name, a lot of platinum & a lot to like Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph... Jul 13, 2024

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Excellence Platine: a long name, a lot of platinum & a lot to like

This grail-worthy piece isn't just one of the “most platinum” watches made recently, but a glorious yet surprisingly understated example of haute horlogerie.The post Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Excellence Platine: a long name, a lot of platinum & a lot to like appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Just A Minute With The Paulin Modul Worn & Wound
Jul 12, 2024

Just A Minute With The Paulin Modul

Let’s take just a minute with the Modul, Paulin’s bold and colorful time-only watch. The Modul is a collection of 35mm, modular constructed tonneau-shaped watches. The cases are rated to 50 meters of water resistance and use a boxed Hesalite crystal, giving them a vintage charm. Let’s take just a minute with the Modul, Paulin’s bold and colorful time-only watch. The Modul is a collection of 35mm, modular constructed tonneau-shaped watches. The cases are rated to 50 meters of water resistance and use a boxed Hesalite crystal, giving them a vintage charm. The post Just A Minute With The Paulin Modul appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Fratello’s Top 5 GMT Watches Of The First Half Of 2024 - Featuring Tudor, Christopher Ward, RZE, And More Fratello
Christopher Ward RZE Jul 12, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 GMT Watches Of The First Half Of 2024 - Featuring Tudor, Christopher Ward, RZE, And More

Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we return to highlighting some of the best watches of the first half of 2024. After already having discussed recently released dive watches, it’s now time to look at GMTs. With most people getting ready to travel for the summer holidays, this is a timely topic. We have […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 GMT Watches Of The First Half Of 2024 - Featuring Tudor, Christopher Ward, RZE, And More to read the full article.

Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Thomas’s Picks From Certina, Omega, And Zenith Fratello
Certina Omega Jul 12, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Thomas’s Picks From Certina, Omega, And Zenith

It is that time of year again, though you would be hard-pressed to notice when looking out the window here in the Netherlands! In any case, summer is upon us, which means we are back with a new theme for our Fratello Favorites series. I get the honor of kicking off this round by sharing […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Thomas’s Picks From Certina, Omega, And Zenith to read the full article.

Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline Skeleton White Ceramic SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Jul 11, 2024

Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline Skeleton White Ceramic

A new livery for one of Zenith’s most popular models, the Defy Skyline Skeleton White Ceramic shares the styling of its siblings like the Defy Skyline 36 mm but with a few notable tweaks including a white ceramic case and blue-treated skeletonised movement. And though it appears to be a simple time-only watch, the Defy Skyline features a discreet complication in the form of a “lightning” small seconds hand that completes one rotation every ten seconds. Initial thoughts Zenith has recently been playing it safe with new launches by building on current bestsellers, like the Defy Skyline. The new skeleton in white ceramic is a good looking watch, and an excellent execution of one of Zenith’s modern-day classics. The combination is also novel. Although each key element of the watch is common in itself – a skeleton movement plus the white ceramic case and bracelet – they are relatively uncommon together. The Defy Skyline Skeleton on the wrist However, the Defy Skyline arguably tries too hard to capitalise on the recent (and waning) popularity of integrated-bracelet sports watches. It is not difficult to see a resemblance to the Royal Oak, in particular the one-off Royal Oak made for Only Watch 2023, making it a bit cliché. Priced at US$17,500, the Defy Skyline Skeleton in white ceramic is a decent value proposition compared to similar watches, most of which are from pricier brands like Hublot or Audemars Piguet. Besides the ceramic case and bracelet, it stands out ...