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Results for Manufacture vs Etablisseur

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Manufacture vs Etablisseur

The structural difference between brands that make their own movements (manufactures) and those that buy them (etablisseurs).
Hands-On: The Surprising Yema Navygraf Marine Nationale CMM.10 Fratello
Yema Aug 14, 2024

Hands-On: The Surprising Yema Navygraf Marine Nationale CMM.10

Yema has been knocking out new releases one after another. The French brand focuses on introducing new additions to the brand’s “Manufacture” line of watches. It focuses on premium versions of existing models that feature the brand’s in-house developed movements and are generally also finished on a higher level than the regular models. The latest […] Visit Hands-On: The Surprising Yema Navygraf Marine Nationale CMM.10 to read the full article.

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Business News: New CEOs for Hublot and TAG Heuer SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Expected but not quite Jul 18, 2024

Business News: New CEOs for Hublot and TAG Heuer

Expected but not quite so soon, longtime Hublot chief executive Ricardo Guadalupe is retiring after two decades at its helm, first as managing director for eight years followed by another 12 years as chief executive, during which he oversaw the expansion of Hublot’s manufacture as well as collaborations like the Daniel Arsham pocket watch. Now 59 years old with some four decades in the watch industry, Mr Guadalupe will be replaced by Julien Tornare, who was only just named to the top job at TAG Heuer in January 2024 when Frederic Arnault was named chief executive of the LVMH Watches Division. In turn, Mr Tornare will be succeeded by Antoine Pin, who was most recently head of Bulgari’s watch business. Who succeeds Mr Pin has not yet been officially announced. All the new appointments take effect come September 1, 2024. From left: Julien Tornare, Frédéric Arnault, Ricardo Guadalupe, and Antoine Pin Mr Guadalupe is a watch industry lifer, having started in the business at Bulgari in the mid 1980s before moving to Blancpain and then Hublot. For about a year now, Hublot insiders have been saying Mr Guadalupe appeared ready for retirement, though the announcement still comes as unexpected. Slated to become the Honorary President of Hublot after he steps down, Mr Guadalupe’s retirement might be due in part to the marked slowdown in the watch industry, which no doubt contributed to the significant management overhaul at Richemont, where new faces were appointed to the chie...

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Chanel’s Première Transformed Into a Necklace Watch with Headphones SJX Watches
Chanel s Première Transformed Into Jul 15, 2024

Chanel’s Première Transformed Into a Necklace Watch with Headphones

Having launched the Première Édition Originale two years ago, a bestseller modelled on the No. 5 perfume bottle, Chanel has now extended the concept, literally, with the Première Sound Watch. It’s a necklace watch, or a montre sautoir, with a pair of wired earphones, or more specifically in-ear monitors (IEMs), that loop through the links of the chain. Initial thoughts Chanel is now a proper watchmaker with an expansive manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds (where the Monsieur is produced) and a stake in movement maker Kenissi, but it’s primarily a luxury fashion house that derives majority of its revenue from cosmetics and fashion. The Première Sound is very much a fashion watch – and an expensive one at that – but a logical creation that is both useful and instantly recognisable as Chanel. As an aside, the fact that the Première necklace watch is delivered with a pair of wired earphones, instead of wireless earbuds, is low tech but practical since it does away with flaky rechargeable batteries, which will inevitably extend its useful life. Importantly, the earphone cable loops into the necklace and is removable, meaning the Première Sound can revert to just being a necklace watch. Jennie of Korean girl group Blackpink with the Premiere Sound A bottle stopper watch Introduced in 1987, the Première is Chanel’s longest-lived bestseller. Its case is modelled on the cap of the No. 5 perfume bottle, itself inspired by the shape of the Place Vendôme, the square in ...

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Interview: Arnaud Chastaingt and His Vision for Chanel’s Watches SJX Watches
Cartier Mr Chastaingt took Jul 11, 2024

Interview: Arnaud Chastaingt and His Vision for Chanel’s Watches

Now having been director of Chanel’s watch creation studio for almost a dozen years, Arnaud Chastaingt has shaped the brand’s line-up of timepieces and time-telling objects, imbuing them with a distinctive yet versatile style that is still recognisably Chanel. After a decade at Cartier, Mr Chastaingt took the helm of the design studio as Chanel was expanding and refining its watch division. Besides the scaling up of its longtime manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, where top-of-the-line movements like Calibre 1 are produced, Chanel also invested in Kenissi, the movement maker majority owned by Tudor. The brand’s investments in watchmaking have paid off, with its 2024 collection including the J12 Couture Workshop wristwatch powered by the in-house Calibre 6 that incorporates an automaton of Coco Chanel wielding a pair of scissors. While the engineering and mechanics are all located in Switzerland, Mr Chastaingt mandates the aesthetics from the brand’s headquarters in Paris, even designing the bridges of the in-house movements. He spoke to us about design, details, and why a brand like Chanel makes complicated watches for men. The interview was edited for clarity and length. A tiny ring watch modelled on a pin cushion set with pearls and diamonds. Image – Chanel SJX: I’ve seen the new collection and I’m impressed by the variety and design. The first question is, I see a comic-inspired theme with the character watches and the automaton, but these are serious mechan...

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First Look – The New Norqain Neverest GMT Glacier 41mm and Glacier 40mm Monochrome
Norqain Neverest GMT Glacier 41mm Jul 5, 2024

First Look – The New Norqain Neverest GMT Glacier 41mm and Glacier 40mm

Norqain has consolidated a repertoire of watches to tackle the great outdoors. Robust, well-designed, contemporary models that can take their fair share of adversity and still look good, Norqain is back this summer with a versatile GMT travel companion and a rugged three-hander, both from the brand’s Neverest collection, fitted with high-performance, chronometer-rated Kenissi manufacture […]

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Hands-on – The Bold and Ultra-Modern Roger Dubuis Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon Monochrome
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon Mr Jul 1, 2024

Hands-on – The Bold and Ultra-Modern Roger Dubuis Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon

Mr Roger Dubuis founded his eponymous brand in 1995, swiftly achieving success with timepieces that deftly balance traditional watchmaking craftsmanship and bold, expressive designs. Since 2003, the brand has been renowned for its expertise in tourbillon watches, starting with the calibre RD03. This fully integrated manufacture has since become a specialist in architectural skeletonised tourbillons, […]

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Oris Releases a New Divers Sixty-Five with a “Forest Green” Dial Worn & Wound
Oris Releases Jun 26, 2024

Oris Releases a New Divers Sixty-Five with a “Forest Green” Dial

Another week, another green Oris Divers Sixty-Five. Just six days ago, Oris unveiled what could possibly be the ideal, enthusiast focused version of the Divers Sixty-Five. That model has a versatile 38mm case, the brand’s high-spec manufacture movement, no date, and a dial in a color that’s very much of the current moment. The new(er) reference has some on-the-surface similarities, but the details will likely make this one appeal to a very different customer. That’s part of what makes Oris such a compelling brand for both new and old enthusiasts and collectors, though – there’s an incredible variety, and truly something for every taste, even within a single collection.  What we have here is a 40mm Divers Sixty-Five with a green dial that Oris says is inspired by the dense forests that surround the company’s original factory in Hölstein. The tone here has a subtle fumé effect, reading as a light, almost pastel green at the dial’s center, transitioning into something more lush and quite a bit darker at the outer edges.  With the slightly larger case, we also get a date at the 6:00 position, a function of the Oris Calibre 733 movement that powers the watch. This movement is a rebadged Sellita and offers 41 hours of power reserve. Oris deserves credit, I think, for continuing to produce interesting variants of the Divers Sixty-Five with this more affordable but completely respectable workhorse caliber. Many brands, after introducing a new caliber family like ...

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Introducing – The new Gradient Green Oris Divers Sixty-Five Date 40mm Monochrome
Oris Divers Sixty-Five Date 40mm Jun 25, 2024

Introducing – The new Gradient Green Oris Divers Sixty-Five Date 40mm

While the Aquis, which has been recently revised, represents the modern side of dive watches at Oris, the Divers Sixty-Five collection is, as you might have guessed by the name, its vintage-inspired counterpart. An instrumental model for the brand’s recent history, the ’65 has been presented in dozens of editions, with manufacture movement, a chronograph, […]

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Hands On: Louis Vuitton Escale Métiers d’Art “Cabinet Of Wonders” SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Escale Métiers d’Art “Cabinet Jun 17, 2024

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Escale Métiers d’Art “Cabinet Of Wonders”

The recent debut of the Escale Time-Only was actually the second instalment of the design’s revival. Earlier this year, Louis Vuitton presented the Escale Métiers d’Art “Cabinet Of Wonders”, also time-only but with exceptionally elaborate dials decorated in a variety of artisanal crafts – all executed in-house at La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the brand’s Geneva manufacture. The “cabinet” is a trio of watches with dials featuring Asian motifs inspired by a collection of tsuba, or Japanese sword guards, owned by Gaston-Louis Vuitton, the grandson of Louis Vuitton. Ranging from enamelling to marquetry to hammering, the dial decoration is intricate and three-dimensional. From left: Koi’s Garden, Dragon’s Cloud, and Snake’s Jungle Initial thoughts Like the Voyager Flying Tourbillon Plique-à-Jour, the Cabinet of Wonders is a tangible realisation of LFT’s swift buildup of an in-house métiers d’art workshop that encompasses enamelling, engraving, and guilloche. The métiers d’art workshop is just one facet of Louis Vuitton’s ambitious, wide-ranging development of its watchmaking division, a project that is still a work in progress but advancing at a pace rapid enough that it will go far quickly. The dials are lavish, complex, and finely executed. Although they are each decorated with a variety of techniques, the different textures, colours, and styles complement each other perfectly. The quality of the work is comparable to that of Van Cleef & Arpe...

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First Look – The New Louis Vuitton Escale Time-Only Collection (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Escale Time-Only Collection Incl Jun 11, 2024

First Look – The New Louis Vuitton Escale Time-Only Collection (Incl. Video)

With the launch of the Tambour integrated luxury sports watch last year, Louis Vuitton introduced a whole new strategy for its watch division. No more linked to fashion, the brand wants to be part of the higher-end watchmaking league, thanks to its manufacture, La Fabrique du Temps. Now, it’s time for the second step, with […]

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Hands On: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Jun 5, 2024

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT

For Tudor, 2024 was a year of safe bets, with the only completely new model family, the Black Bay 58 GMT, being an almost guaranteed success from the get-go. Overtly referencing sought-after vintage GMT Master models from sister brand Rolex, the BB58 GMT further solidifies Tudor’s dominant position in its category. While the big story last year was Tudor’s move out of its parents’ basement and into its own manufacture in Le Locle, this year was comparatively tame, focused on expanding the line-up of METAS-certified Black Bay models. Initial thoughts Tudor is one of the Swiss watch industry’s great success stories of the last decade. In a market in which high-end products have enjoyed the lion’s share of growth, Tudor has achieved an enviable market position by consistently improving design and quality while maintaining affordable pricing. The brand is also listening to the community, and introducing products that are likely to have built-in demand; the BB58 GMT is emblematic of this formula. Beyond its signature gilt accents and black and burgundy “Coke” bezel, the big story is of course the packaging of a true “flyer” GMT functionality in the smaller Black Bay 58 case format. The original Black Bay GMT, introduced in 2018, was beefier, at 41 mm in diameter and nearly 15 mm thick (14.6 mm to be specific). The Black Bay Pro shrunk the diameter to 39 mm, but the thickness stayed the same, resulting in a watch that felt overly thick. The New BB58 GMT address...

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First Look – The Discreet Luxury of the Chopard L.U.C 1860 Flying Tourbillon Monochrome
Chopard L.U.C 1860 Flying Tourbillon Jun 3, 2024

First Look – The Discreet Luxury of the Chopard L.U.C 1860 Flying Tourbillon

Karl-Friedrich Scheufele’s dream of mechanical independence materialised in 1996 with the presentation of Chopard‘s first in-house movement known as calibre 1.96. Produced in Chopard’s Fleurier manufacture, the calibre was fitted inside the first L.U.C 1860 watch, writing a new chapter in the brand’s high-end watchmaking journey. Recognised as one of the finest ultra-thin micro-rotor automatic […]

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12 Carbon Fiber Watches from Entry-Level to Luxury Teddy Baldassarre
May 23, 2024

12 Carbon Fiber Watches from Entry-Level to Luxury

Since its beginnings, the wristwatch industry has engaged in an ongoing quest for materials that are lightweight yet exceptionally tough - a quest that has led to the mainstreaming of once-experimental materials such as titanium and ceramics. Among the most recent and most high-tech substances adopted for watchmaking are carbon fiber compounds, pioneered by research scientists in the 1950s and ‘60s and first used in the manufacture of automotive and jet engine parts. The first wristwatch with carbon fiber in its case was an IWC Ingenieur in 1980; other watchmakers followed suit in the ensuing decades, some of them even developing new and more resilient substances by combining carbon fibers with other materials. While the watches on this list cover a vast range in terms of pricing, design, and technical complexity, all of them share the core attributes bestowed by carbon fiber and its various derivatives: exceptional lightness, durability, scratch- and corrosion-resistance, and an industrial-chic surface treatment that is sure to spark conversation among fellow watch aficionados. G-Shock Mudmaster GWG2000 Price: $800, Case Size: 61.2mm x 54.4mm, Thickness: 16.1mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 200 meters, Movement: Casio Tough Solar Casio’s vast and diverse G-Shock collection offers some of its toughest multifunctional watches in the task-specific “Master of G” collection - like the Mudmaster, which as per its somewhat cartoonish name is aimed at wearers ...

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First Look – The New Yema Navygraf Slim CMM.20 with Micro-Rotor Movement Monochrome
Yema May 7, 2024

First Look – The New Yema Navygraf Slim CMM.20 with Micro-Rotor Movement

A strong advocate of French watchmaking and a brand with history, Yema keeps upgrading its collection with more horological content and designs to please vintage enthusiasts. This blend of modern watchmaking and historic looks was the base of the recently presented Superman Slim CMM.20, the icon of the brand powered by a manufacture micro-rotor calibre developed and assembled in France. Now, it's time for the Navygraf, the other dive watch of Yema to be upgraded and refined with these nice mechanics. Meet the new Navygraf Slim CMM.20 diver.

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Hands-on – Arnold & Son’s Take On The Integrated Sports Watch, the new Longitude Titanium Monochrome
Arnold & Son Apr 22, 2024

Hands-on – Arnold & Son’s Take On The Integrated Sports Watch, the new Longitude Titanium

Since joining Manufacture La Joux-Perret in 2010, Arnold & Son has been known for crafting impressive timepieces that exude elegance and sophistication. With their meticulously crafted dials, whether openworked, metiers d’art, or adorned with exquisite elements, these watches seemed almost too delicate to be subjected to anything other than adorning the wrist for a stylish […]

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The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Returns! - Meet The Duometre Chronograph Moon And The Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Returns! - Meet Apr 11, 2024

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Returns! - Meet The Duometre Chronograph Moon And The Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual

Jaeger-LeCoultre is a great watch brand, but “Le Grand Maison” from Le Sentier is arguably an even greater movement maker. There’s an impressive wall in the manufacture that brings to life the brand’s incredible tradition of creating innovative movements in all shapes and sizes. One of JLC’s latest movement highlights was the Duometre concept, which […] Visit The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Returns! - Meet The Duometre Chronograph Moon And The Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual to read the full article.

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First Look – Dune, Horizon, Obsidian… The New Colours of the IWC Portugieser Chronograph (Incl. Video) Monochrome
IWC Portugieser Chronograph Incl Video Apr 10, 2024

First Look – Dune, Horizon, Obsidian… The New Colours of the IWC Portugieser Chronograph (Incl. Video)

Chronographs made their way into the Portugieser family in 1995 with a sophisticated Valjoux-modified rattrapante (IW3712), followed by a classic chronograph, again with a modified Valjoux, in 1998 with the reference IW3714. And then, in 2020, IWC equipped it with a manufacture column-wheel chronograph movement to become the IW3716 (don’t miss our article comparing the […]

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Introducing – The Most Complicated Watch Ever, the Vacheron Constantin Berkley Grand Complication with Chinese QP Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Berkley Grand Complication Apr 9, 2024

Introducing – The Most Complicated Watch Ever, the Vacheron Constantin Berkley Grand Complication with Chinese QP

Back in 2015, on the occasion of the brand’s 260th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin unveiled the Reference 57260, a pocket watch made-to-order for a collector considered the most complicated in the world – with no fewer than 57 complications, including Gregorian, Judaic, and lunar calendars. On the occasion of Watches & Wonders 2024, the Geneva-based manufacture […]

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Roger Dubuis Introduces the “Orbis in Machina” Central Tourbillon SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Introduces Apr 9, 2024

Roger Dubuis Introduces the “Orbis in Machina” Central Tourbillon

No stranger to extravagant timepieces, Roger Dubuis’ brand of “Hyper Horology” is apparent in its bold design language and intricate, showy movements. For Watches & Wonders 2024 the manufacture presents the Roger Dubuis Orbis In Machina Central Monotourbillon, a central tourbillon with an expectedly classical movement. Initial thoughts The way Roger Dubuis carries itself now is very different from the brand’s early, classically styled pieces. The current house style is centred on mechanical aesthetics, angular shapes, and large cases with proprietary triple lugs. The Orbis in Machina sticks to that familiar style, although the front appears more subdued and technical than the average Roger Dubuis complication. Despite the layered and open-worked dial, the technicality of the piece is mostly concealed. Orbis in Machina still carries a few embellishments, resulting in a design that is clearly opulent in a hyper-mechanical sort of way. Seemingly sitting at the top of a stack of moving parts on the dial, the tourbillon regulator serves as the centrepiece. Paradoxically, the more restrained composition on the outside contrasts with the interesting and sophisticated mechanics within. The movement fills up the large case, creating a sense of visual density. This is more evident on the back, which tells a whole different story compared to the front. The display back reveals an intricate and exquisitely finished movement. Stylistically, the RD115 movement is also an unusual...

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First Look – The Louis Vuitton X Frank Gehry Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon Sapphire Monochrome
Louis Vuitton X Frank Gehry Tambour Apr 2, 2024

First Look – The Louis Vuitton X Frank Gehry Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon Sapphire

It’s full steam ahead for Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking division, an appropriate metaphor for a brand founded on Monsieur Vuitton’s revolutionary stacking canvas trunks and long associated with the ‘art of travel’. With the incorporation of the high-end watchmaking manufacture, La Fabrique du Temps in 2011, the brand can produce spectacularly complicated timepieces underscored by a […]

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