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New: Amida Digitrend Take-off Edition
The Amida makes a comeback with the new Digitrend. The launch edition is known as Take-off and is a recreation of the original released in Baselworld 1979.
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Deployant
The Amida makes a comeback with the new Digitrend. The launch edition is known as Take-off and is a recreation of the original released in Baselworld 1979.
SJX Watches
One of the most esoteric offerings in Only Watch 2024 is the Barbier-Mueller Mosaïque II. A follow-up to the first edition made in 2017, the Mosaïque II sticks to the same template that was originally inspired by a 19th century pocket watch with an inlaid case. It’s essentially an F.P. Journe Chronometre Souverain with a slightly larger case inlaid with semi-precious stones and a hinged hunter back. This also makes F.P. Journe the only brand with two watches – the other is the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu – in the upcoming charity auction that takes place on May 10, 2024. Initial thoughts I liked the original version because it was recognisable as an F.P. Journe watch, yet entirely different. The Mosaïque II holds the same appeal, albeit at a far higher price given the increased demand for F.P. Journe in the years since. While in 2017 one could reasonably hope to buy the first Mosaïque for a high five-figure price – in fact it sold for a trifling CHF90,000 – the Mosaïque II will almost certainly end up in the high six- or even seven figures. Affordability aside, the Mosaïque II is a little more interesting than its predecessor because of the floral motif as well as the materials; the bloodstone inlays are a particularly striking backdrop for the other stones. The inlays are also more complex, with both the dial and back inlaid with stones in a mix of shapes and sizes. A Geneva museum Located along a small street in Geneva’s Old Town is the Barbier-Mueller Mus...
Quill & Pad
Independent brand Petermann Bédat launched its second timepiece, the Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph in 2023 and it took that years GPHG prize for best chronograph. Joshua Munchow takes a deep dive into what makes it so special.
Worn & Wound
Tudor has released a new watch in their growing Pelagos FXD collection with the Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition.” The new watch borrows a formula from last year’s FXD releases tied to the Alinghi Red Bull Racing, but this time the focus is on Tudor’s own cycling team, which makes their debut in the Giro d’Italia this weekend. The Giro d’Italia is one of the most important cycling races on the competitive calendar, and this new chronograph has a handful of little touches that might make it particularly appealing to fans of the sport. It strikes many of the same chords, though, as last year’s Alinghi releases, and could point to a new and developing strategy within Tudor in how they work with athletic partners. At a high level, this is essentially the same watch as the Alinghi FXD chronograph. They share the same 43mm black carbon composite case and run on the same MT5813 chronometer certified movement. The differences, of course, come in the details. The new Cycling Edition watch features a black dial with plenty of red accents, a nod to the colors of the Tudor cycling team. And rather than a rotating dive bezel like the one on last year’s chrono, here we get a fixed 60 minute bezel. The most interesting change, and I think the one that will have hardcore cyclists most excited, is a tachymeter scale that has been designed with cycling specific intervals in mind. Virtually every other tachymeter scale on modern sports watches is designed to measure th...
Hodinkee
A credit card-inspired livery makes its way to the driver's wrists for race weekend in Miami.
SJX Watches
You can never be too rich or too thin – a quote attributed to Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor, but it might as well have come from Piaget, which just debuted the thinnest tourbillon wristwatch in history, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary. Covered in-depth at launch, the AUC Tourbillon is just 2 mm thick, including the case and crystal; that makes the watch thinner than a Swiss five-franc coin. While its record-breaking dimensions are headline-grabbing, it’s the watch’s overall design and ergonomics that make it look and feel almost miraculous on the wrist. The AUC Tourbillon next to the five-franc coin; it’s also slimmer than the two-franc coin, and equivalent to about 20 sheets of A4 printer paper Initial thoughts Record-chasing, whether in terms of thickness, weight, water resistance, or complications, is a common theme in the watch industry, but the results are often gimmicky and impractical. When I heard that Piaget would be introducing the thinnest tourbillon in history, I rolled my eyes. But my perspective changed as soon as I picked up the AUC Tourbillon, a moment that stands out in my memory as a highlight of Watches & Wonders 2024. The watch is thin, of course, but the immediate impression is one of substance; it feels far more substantial than it looks. This is in part due to the M64BC cobalt alloy case, the extreme rigidity of which makes the watch’s 2 mm thinness possible. Furthermore, the ergonomics of the case, which is...
Fratello
Nodus is a relatively new brand that has quickly made a name for itself. With a passionate focus on creating increasingly better products, the Los Angeles-based brand has gained a dedicated following. We covered multiple prior Nodus releases that show great design versatility. It makes it interesting to follow the brand’s journey. With the new […] Visit Nodus Introduces The Contrail GMT - The Third Generation Of The Brand’s Popular Travel Watch to read the full article.
Monochrome
Modern watches made by Roger Dubuis are the antithesis of understatement and always manage to deliver a compelling mix of traditional horological content with a dash of extravagant, expressive design. This year’s releases focused on the flying tourbillon, culminating in the Orbis in Machina model with its rare, centrally mounted regulator (only a few can […]
WatchAdvice
After over a year of ownership, the Tissot PRX has given me a new outlook on what makes a great, affordable luxury timepiece! What We Love: The finer design details comparable to more expensive watchesVariety of dial colours to choose from.Affordable/entry-level luxury at its best. What We Don’t: The date window could have been placed better for a more balanced dial view. Lack of colour choices to match the dials from the brand for additional straps. Lack of finer adjustment on the integrated bracelet. Overall Rating: 9.25/10 Value for Money: 9.5/10Wearability: 8.5/10Design: 9/10Build Quality: 9/10 When the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 was first introduced in 2021, it created quite a buzz! The timepiece came with an integrated bracelet design that had an AP-like shine, a waffle dial and a tonneau-shaped case with a circular dial. Those not versed in Tissot’s history didn’t know that this was a retake on one of the brand’s iconic 1970s designs (which I’ll touch on later) and saw this as a new kid on the block, one whose about to really shake things up in the affordable timepieces category. One of the main selling points of this timepiece was its price. For what you get in return, this timepiece offers a lot—quite a lot, actually. The PRX was first released with a quartz movement, staying true to its original, and priced around $500. Then came what we watch aficionados were waiting for: a mechanical version with a pretty hefty power reserve. 1970s Vintage Tissot ...
Worn & Wound
There is something undeniable about a blacked-out pilot’s watch. I don’t know exactly what makes the recipe work so well, but you don’t have to look far to see that it does. From that perspective, it’s no wonder that it’s a formula Hanhart, a brand well known for their pilot’s watches, would fall back on. The Swiss-German brand’s latest model takes this recipe and runs with it, building off the existing Preventor9 from a few years ago and tweaking it to produce what is undeniably a very compelling option. The Preventor9 S - the “S” stands for “schwarz,” the German word for black, not to be confused with “Schwartz,” the mystical force from the film Spaceballs - is about as simple a watch as you can find from Hanhart, and that’s a good thing. Hanhart is a brand best known for producing watches with a very specific look. They’re one of those brands you can typically spot across a room, with their distinctive fluted bezels and red pushers. The Preventor9 stood out when it was released precisely because it didn’t stand out. Gone was the heavily fluted bezel, the chronograph with its red pusher, and any sense of the extraneous. Of course, That’s not to say the Preventor9 is without any of Hanhart’s signature flair. The Preventor9 keeps Hanhart’s signature cathedral hands and features a small seconds display at the nine o’clock position. Historically, the small seconds display at nine o’clock was the result of one of two things: E...
Monochrome
“Adding power makes you faster on the straights. Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere”. These famous words are a quote by the legendary Lotus boss Colin Chapman. In racing, there is indeed a direct link between a car’s performance and the power the engine produces versus the weight it puts on the track. Chapman wasn’t […]
Monochrome
The Calpyso line was Maurice Lacroix‘s best-selling luxury sports watch during the 1990s and was powered by a mix of mechanical and quartz movements. Gauging the current market appetite for luxury sports watches for consumers without five-figure budgets, the Calypso underwent a fundamental overhaul and was transformed into the Aikon. Launched in 2016 with quartz […]
Quill & Pad
When Tim Mosso first attended the NY show in ‘98, he was a 13-year-old kid in awe of the spectacle. Its sheer scale was stunning. But the world is changing and he learns what a difference 26 years makes.
Worn & Wound
The Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope occupies a strange place in the world of Speedmasters. It was introduced to considerable fanfare in 2021, but hasn’t yet connected in a meaningful way with the enthusiast world. And yet, everytime I see one at a meetup or watch related event, I find myself really enjoying it. It’s the kind of watch that you forget about until you can’t forget about it anymore, if that makes any sense, and it feels like it’s one or two iterations away from figuring out exactly what its niche is in the Omega catalog. Today, Omega has announced two new versions of the Chronoscope to celebrate the upcoming Paris Olympics, offering a new chance to connect with one of the least discussed Speedmasters. Watches made to celebrate the Olympics are nothing new for Omega, and they really love counting down to the big event, releasing watches to remind us that the games begin in a year, 100 days, and so forth. Olympic themed watches have often featured the Olympic rings in fairly obvious ways, but Omega seems to be steering away from that strategy, favoring the use of gold instead to signify a more thematic connection to the games. That’s what we get here, with a pair of Speedmaster Chronoscopes, one in steel with golden highlights, and the other in solid Moonshine Gold with a full gold bracelet, each featuring the distinctive, 1940s inspired chronograph scales that are the Chronoscope’s calling card. The two watches feature the same dial, which Omega d...
Deployant
Frank Chuo makes his armchair picks of the best new watches from Watches & Wonders 24 with Patek Philippe and Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Fratello
When we think of watches, our minds are often first cast to Switzerland’s many manufacturers. But Germany makes fantastic timepieces, and perhaps it is worth giving Switzerland’s larger northern neighbor a look too when on the hunt for a new watch. Let’s look at some German watches! Switzerland has a proud tradition of watchmaking that […] Visit Six For Six: German Watches That Compete With Swiss Timepieces to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Rolex has unveiled a luxe version of one of its top-of-the-line divers, the Deepsea ref. 136668 LB, which boasts a blue lacquer dial paired with a yellow gold case and bracelet. The timepiece makes a significant statement while preserving all the depth performance associated with its steel Deepsea Sea-Dweller. Initial thoughts Rolex has been hinting at forthcoming novelties on social media for a while, sparking anticipation among enthusiasts like myself who speculated that perhaps a new Submariner model was in development. However, the brand surprised us with something pretty unexpected. The new Deepsea features the iconic blue and yellow gold colour scheme reminiscent of past Submariner models, which adds a touch of nostalgia to the release. With a diameter of 44 mm, this watch carries considerable weight, especially with its heavy yellow gold construction, which adds substantial heft to the wrist. Priced at US$52,100, it far surpasses the cost of comparable steel models, which are roughly a third of its price. However, considering the solid yellow gold construction, the price is fitting, considering the current market climate. Blue and yellow gold The latest model is a successor to the steel Deepsea Sea-Dweller. It maintains the renowned pressure-resistant architecture, with a ceramic compression ring and the Ringlock system for the bezel. Sporting a vibrant blue hue, the bezel, compression ring and dial all sharply contrast with the gilded gold lettering on the dial a...
Worn & Wound
When it comes to ones to watch, Norqain definitely makes the list. In the past year in particular, its momentum seems to be steadily growing. Right now, the brand is notching its first Watches & Wonders, and just ahead of the show, seasoned collector Mark Wahlberg was spotted rocking the Wild One Skeleton all around town-I’d say this gives Norqain some serious street cred. Last week, the brand also shared some pretty exciting news: three-time Grand Slam-winning tennis champion Stan Wawrinka is now an invested partner in the company, and he inspired two new versions of the popular Wild One Skeleton. In addition, Norqain has doubled down on the collection, unveiling a totally new platform where you can create your very own piece unique Wild One. You’ll recall when Norqain’s Wild One got the skeleton treatment last year. The new configuration offered the benefit of a reimagined dial revealing the COSC-certified Caliber N08S (Sellita SW200-1 S c) movement but still fell a bit short in terms of legibility. Still, the model delivered on performance thanks to the brand’s proprietary, ultra-lightweight, rigid, and durable carbon fiber derived NORTEQ material that makes up a large portion of the case body and can withstand shocks up to 5,000g. This feature was a major draw for Wawrinka, who put the turquoise variation to the test on the court at the U.S. Open last year and now brings us two new colorways fit for the upcoming Grand Slam season: a bright coral iteration f...
Fratello
Watches and Wonders 2024 has been filled with new releases. Bvlgari is no stranger to the event and came with several offerings. This year, the brand focused on thin watches and set a record. Yes, the Octo Finissimo took a leading role, but other releases were worth covering. Bvlgari makes some seriously attractive watches, and […] Visit The Bvlgari Releases From Watches And Wonders 2024 to read the full article.
Hodinkee
A dark green, vintage-inspired dial makes for a nice addition to the high-end collection.
Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko’s Evolution 9 series has, since its inception, been a collection that has veered toward the sporty. The outright sports models are commanding in their wrist presence for sure, but even the “standard” Evolution 9 watches have a robust quality to them that makes them ideal daily drivers. Now, for Watches & Wonders 2024, Grand Seiko has introduced an all new branch of the Evolution 9 collection with a pair of watches they have specifically identified as being in the dress category: the SLGW002 and SLGW003, featuring the all new manually wound 9SA4 caliber. The cases, crafted in rose gold for the SLGW002 and Brilliant Hard Titanium for the SLGW003, measure 38.6mm in diameter and 9.95mm tall. The lines of the case recall other watches in the Evolution 9 collection (these watches still have a ton of wrist presence thanks a wide stance and clearly executed facets) but are more refined overall. Also, like other Evolution 9 cases, these wear as if the center of gravity is lower, and the watch plants satisfyingly on the wrist, and especially in titanium it feels very ergonomic. The big news here though is the new movement that allows for such a sleek rendition of the Evolution 9 principles. The 9SA4 caliber is effectively a hand wound version of the 9SA5, Grand Seiko’s next generation high beat rate movement with their proprietary dual impulse escapement. But Grand Seiko has done more than simply strip the 9SA5 of its winding rotor. Much of the gear train has...
Time+Tide
As a rule, fashion brands and watches don’t usually mix. However, Hermès is a rare exception. Not only is Hermès one of the most highly revered fashion brands of all time, but in recent years, it has gained a significant foothold in being able to compete with the best in the watch business. Firstly, the … ContinuedThe post Every Hermès release from Watches & Wonders 2024 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
One part inside your watch makes one complete rotation every 400 years. Let that sink in. This is the case with the new IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar ref. IW505701. The calendar will run flawlessly until the year 3999. A regular perpetual calendar would need three corrections (in 2100, 2200, and 2300). Only those centurial years […] Visit Hot Take: IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Few brands have the ability to surprise quite like Urwerk, but it makes sense that such an unconventional watch brand would be the one most likely to leave us all scratching our heads in wonder and confusion (in the best way possible, of course). Their latest creation, the Spacetime Blade, is based on a design that made its debut last year ahead of the scuttled Only Watch auction. The clock, outfitted with a series light bulbs lit by Nixie tubes, provides pretty much all the timing information you could want, and plenty you didn’t know you needed, all in a very Urwerk way. What we have here is a glass blade that stands 1.7 meters tall and weighs 20 kilograms. It’s an imposing, large object, made up of a total of 1,446 components. It stands on a large bronze crown that’s been polished and buffed to Urwerk’s preferred level of patina, and provides a base to a large glass dome that protects a series of vertically aligned Nixie bulbs, eight in total. Each bulb contains a total of ten steel cathodes that allow it to illuminate any digit, 0 through 9. The glass is blown by hand and the electrical elements are meticulously assembled by hand as well, using tweezers, in each of the bulbs. According to Urwerk, each bulb consists of 88 parts. Once the blade is assembled and the whole thing is turned on, it’s capable of displaying a variety of information via the Nixie bulbs. The Spacetime Blade has several different modes, and can read the time in hours, minutes, and ...
Quill & Pad
As the FlyingT is an MB&F; it does things differently. This starts with its stacked movement. A significant part of the gear train is placed on top of each other and topped off with a flying tourbillon. But it's that black dial that makes it absolutely stunning!
SJX Watches
London-based Bamford Watch Department’s latest is the B80 Limited Edition, a collaboration with Ace Jewelers of Amsterdam. In keeping with Bamford’s vintage-with-a-twist house style, the B80 boasts a “ghost” dial with a gradient finish and numerals inspired by historical military watches. The 39 mm titanium case has a black finished that’s been treated to appear aged. Initial Thoughts There is something about all-black watches that makes them cool. Part of it is the no-nonsense, military-instrument look they evoke. Black-coated watches, at least most of them, suffer from a major drawback - coatings wear off in time, resulting in a worn look that is more often than not unappealing. But here the wear has been done in advance for a fuss-free watch. According to the duo behind the B80, this is a “tool” watch conceived according to the notion “if [the watch is] too perfect, fix it”. Bamford, a company that got its start by modifying Rolex watches, often with vintage inspired styling and black-coated cases, is perhaps poking fun at its roots with the worn-out PVD finish of the B80. Even the dial features a “smoked” patina along with hands and indices with aged lume, thereby creating a “vintage” watch. But as with most Bamford watches – the brand now mostly makes original watches under its own name – the B80 is affordable and imbued with a spirit of fun. The back, for instance, is engraved with “You’re Ace”, and the watch is delivered with a...
Monochrome
Founded by couple John and Claire, Byrne is an independent watchmaking brand that debuted in 2022. John, a watchmaker with a design background, serves as the creative driving force behind the brand, while Claire, his wife, handles business-related affairs. What makes Byrne’s creations stand out is their unique display. The face of their watches evolves. […]
Fratello
Hello, and welcome to a rather unruly episode of Fratello Talks. It’s a Friday afternoon at Fratello HQ, and Nacho, Lex, and Thomas gather around the mics to list some of the best watches of 2024 so far. The guys have all picked three of their favorite releases from this first quarter and three additional […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Best Watches Of 2024 So Far to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
How many of you are using a lead pencil regularly? The old-school variety, I’m talking about. The kind that maybe you used on a Scan-Tron test in high school, but perhaps not since then. The reality is that, for many of us, a pencil isn’t the first writing utensil one grabs for when it’s time to jot down a note. While a mechanical pencil makes it easy, its wooden cousin has a few complications that make it not ideal for the everyday user – you have to sharpen it, the lead can easily dull after a few minutes, the line size tends to be a bit broader. While all of this is absolutely true, it’s hard to not enjoy the hand-feel of a proper wooden pencil dashing across a page. For me, I’ve slowly become a convert to the simple beauty of a pencil. I’m sure it’s part nostalgia, but there is also something more satisfying when scribbling with a pencil versus the almost-too-perfect gliding of a pen. Now, that’s not to say I’m a full-time user – but more and more, you’re likely to find a few pencil shavings littering my desk. And this is due, in large part, to finding the perfect pencil. For longtime readers of mine, you may know I try to stay away from hyperbole. But when it comes to the Blackwing 602, it’s hard to not exaggerate the writing ability, graphite quality, and overall performance of this pencil versus, say, your run-of-the-mill yellow #2 variety. For those who are unfamiliar with Blackwing, you’ve undoubtedly seen the distinct shape creep up ...
Fratello
Although Swatch had been teasing the new MoonSwatch Mission to the Moonphase, or “Snoopy,” for quite a while, weirdly enough, the official announcement came on March 21st while the Swatch × Tate event was happening in London. Today, March 26th, 2024, exactly two years after introducing the first 11 MoonSwatch models, Swatch makes its new […] Visit Hands-On With The New Omega × Swatch Speedmaster MoonSwatch Misson To The Moonphase to read the full article.
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