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Oyster Case

Rolex's 1926 waterproof case patent, the template for every water-resistant wristwatch.
IWC Adds New Ingenieurs To Its Collection At Watches And Wonders 2026 Fratello
IWC Adds New Ingenieurs Apr 15, 2026

IWC Adds New Ingenieurs To Its Collection At Watches And Wonders 2026

The Ingenieur has been a cornerstone re-release for IWC. For Watches and Wonders 2026, we see more additions to this line to satiate buyers looking for something slightly different. These cover smaller case sizes, case materials, and complications. The Ingenieur didn’t always look like what it does today. It actually debuted in the 1950s as […] Visit IWC Adds New Ingenieurs To Its Collection At Watches And Wonders 2026 to read the full article.

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First Look – The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar Monochrome
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar Apr 14, 2026

First Look – The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar

Last year, Roger Dubuis released a nostalgic watch that paid homage to Mr Dubuis, the brand’s talented watchmaker and founder. Using a restored and remanufactured RD72 bi-retrograde perpetual calendar module (launched in 1999) combined with the automatic RD14 base calibre, the Hommage La Placide was presented in a compact and classically styled 38mm gold case, […]

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Patek Philippe’s New Celestial Blasts Off SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s New Celestial Blasts Apr 14, 2026

Patek Philippe’s New Celestial Blasts Off

Patek Philippe updates its Celestial line for the third time, following the addition of a pointer date in 2012 this generation adds the time of sunrise and sunset, and a daring new design for the formidable, space-age 47 mm lug-less case. It also introduces a novel way to account for the transition between summer and winter time, solving a significant shortcoming of astronomical watches for users in Europe and the Americas. Initial thoughts I’ve long thought that Patek Philippe’s greatest strength, other than its massive industrial investments, was its remarkable design diversity. Today brands seem to pursue a unified design language across all of their watches. And while this result is a strong visual identity for the brand, it is extremely limiting. Patek Philippe has no such limits, and the brand has about two dozen different case styles in the current collection, and hundreds in its back catalog. While this leads to its fair share of design misses, at least to my sensibilities, it can also lead to striking successes. I’m sure many will disagree, but I see the new Celestial as the latter. A wristwatch with the time of sunrise and sunset is long overdue from Patek Philippe, and this watch adds the ability to adjust those indications to account for daylight savings time. This addresses the complication’s greatest flaw, but as it is pre-programmed for Geneva, it is somewhat moot if you live at very different latitudes, a flaw the planisphere also shares. Historical...

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Patek Philippe’s Celestial Ref. 6105G Blasts Off SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s Celestial Ref 6105G Apr 14, 2026

Patek Philippe’s Celestial Ref. 6105G Blasts Off

Patek Philippe updates its star chart “Grand Complication” for the third time with the Celestial Sunrise Sunset Ref. 6105G. The ref. 6105G adds the time of sunrise and sunset – cleverly integrated into the date scale – and a daring new design with a formidable, space-age lug-less case in white gold that’s 47 mm across. The ref. 6105G also introduces a novel way to account for the transition between summer and winter time, adding a corrector that shifts the sunrise and sunset scales, solving a significant shortcoming of astronomical watches for users in Europe and the Americas. Initial thoughts I’ve long thought that Patek Philippe’s greatest strength, other than its massive industrial investments, was its remarkable design diversity. Today brands seem to pursue a unified design language across all of their watches. And while this result is a strong visual identity for the brand, it is extremely limiting. Patek Philippe has no such limits, and the brand has about two dozen different case styles in the current collection, and hundreds in its back catalog. While this leads to its fair share of design misses, at least to my sensibilities, it can also lead to striking successes. I’m sure many will disagree, but I see the new Celestial as the latter. A wristwatch with the time of sunrise and sunset is long overdue from Patek Philippe, and this watch adds the ability to adjust those indications to account for daylight savings time. This addresses the complication...

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Patek Philippe Marks 50th Years of The Nautilus with Two Hands and a Pocket Watch SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet stuck Apr 14, 2026

Patek Philippe Marks 50th Years of The Nautilus with Two Hands and a Pocket Watch

Patek Philippe celebrates the semicentennial of its coveted sports watch with the 50th Anniversary Nautilus Collection, a trio of two hand precious metal watches in white gold and platinum – and an unexpected pocket watch desk clock. The deletion of the seconds hand is a return to the line’s aesthetic roots, also demonstrated by a new 38 mm case size, very close to that of the original. But, it remains on the precious metal path Patek Philippe began in 2021 when it axed the steel ref. 5711. Initial Thoughts These anniversary editions are the truest to the original Nautilus that we’ve seen in recent memory. The sans seconds ref. 3700/1A, launched in 1976, was powered by the JLC 920-based cal. 28-355C, which the calibre 240 was meant to replace. While Audemars Piguet stuck to the two hands plug date format with the Royal Oak Jumbo, Patek Philippe migrated the Nautilus to its new sweep-seconds platform. I believe something was lost when Patek Philippe added a sweep seconds hand to the Nautilus, though understandable from a business perspective given that watches with seconds hands generally have broader appeal than those without. That is recovered here, and the deletion of the calendar sets it apart from the original enough to not be a “reissue”. A smaller 38 mm Nautilus, with better proportions than the existing Ladies models, in also appreciated. The 38 mm platinum ref. 5610/1P-001. It is a shame then that the return of a two hand Nautilus is to be a fleeting one,...

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Introducing – The Nomos Tangente Neomatik 38 Update Monochrome
Nomos Tangente Neomatik 38 Update Apr 14, 2026

Introducing – The Nomos Tangente Neomatik 38 Update

The Nomos Glashütte Tangente Neomatik Update features one of the most original date displays introduced in recent years. Launched in 2018 in a 40.5mm case, this peripheral “ring date” indication became a defining one for the brand’s modern watchmaking, just as the original Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer collection revealed at Watches and Wonders 2025 did. […]

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Tudor Introduces A Slimmer Black Bay 58 With Master Chronometer Certification And Another Bracelet For The Black Bay 58 GMT Fratello
Tudor Introduces Apr 14, 2026

Tudor Introduces A Slimmer Black Bay 58 With Master Chronometer Certification And Another Bracelet For The Black Bay 58 GMT

Tudor expands its lineup of mid-size dive watches with an updated Black Bay 58 and a new bracelet option for the Black Bay 58 GMT. Both watches keep the familiar 39mm case and continue to draw on late-1950s Tudor dive-watch aesthetics. The three-hand model adds technical upgrades, revised case proportions, and Master Chronometer certification. These […] Visit Tudor Introduces A Slimmer Black Bay 58 With Master Chronometer Certification And Another Bracelet For The Black Bay 58 GMT to read the full article.

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A. Lange & Söhne’s Saxonia Annual Calendar Returns SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 14, 2026

A. Lange & Söhne’s Saxonia Annual Calendar Returns

A. Lange & Söhne has introduced the Saxonia Annual Calendar, the brand’s most compact annual calendar to date. Available in 18k white or pink gold, the Saxonia Annual Calendar plays to the strengths of Germany’s foremost watchmaker, combining a compact 36 mm case with an intuitive and legible ‘outsize date’ design reminiscent of the brand’s famed perpetual calendars. The new cal. L207.1 hints at future developments while incorporating refined details such as gold chatons around the going train jewels - a finishing touch that has been absent from the brand’s ‘entry-level’ automatic movements until now. Initial thoughts There’s been a palpable trend toward smaller watches in recent years - Lange’s 34 mm 1815 released last year was a major hit, and it seems like there’s more of a focus on dimensions and thickness than at any other time in the past decade or so. In this context, the Saxonia Annual Calendar should be well-received. At just 36 mm in diameter and under 10 mm thick, the watch is compact even by the standards of time-only watches. In fact, it’s the most compact annual calendar yet from Lange, and the small size of the dial makes the big date format especially convenient for those, like myself, who have trouble reading pointer dates at arm’s length. In fact, I’d argue the enhanced legibility and differentiated design of the big date makes the Saxonia Annual Calendar competitive with more complicated (but equally compact) perpetual ca...

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First Look – The New Laurent Ferrier Sport Traveller (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Laurent Ferrier Apr 14, 2026

First Look – The New Laurent Ferrier Sport Traveller (Incl. Video)

The Sport Traveller is a new model from Laurent Ferrier that adds a dual time function to the brand’s titanium Sport series. The Sport Traveller continues the aesthetic first introduced with the Grand Sport Tourbillon and later refined with the Sport Auto, and the new watch combines the same smooth case and integrated bracelet with a traveller-style complication […]

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Patek Philippe Introduces The Reference 5396R-016 Annual Calendar Moon Phase Fratello
Patek Philippe Introduces Apr 14, 2026

Patek Philippe Introduces The Reference 5396R-016 Annual Calendar Moon Phase

Patek Philippe has updated one of its long-running calendar models with a new version of the reference 5396R. The watch keeps the familiar Annual Calendar layout the brand introduced back in 1996, but now it comes with a warmer dial color in sunburst sand beige and a rose gold case. It’s not a redesign in […] Visit Patek Philippe Introduces The Reference 5396R-016 Annual Calendar Moon Phase to read the full article.

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First Look – The IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 in Titanium Monochrome
IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 Apr 14, 2026

First Look – The IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 in Titanium

IWC Schaffhausen continues to expand the modern Ingenieur line by once again pairing the 1970s Gérald Genta-inspired integrated case and bracelet with the crown-operated perpetual calendar developed by Kurt Klaus in the early 1980s. Following the steel version launched last year, this 2026 release introduces a full-titanium construction; meet the Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 in […]

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Introducing – The Patek Philippe Cubitus Perpetual Calendar 5840P Monochrome
Patek Philippe Cubitus Perpetual Calendar 5840P Apr 13, 2026

Introducing – The Patek Philippe Cubitus Perpetual Calendar 5840P

On the occasion of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, Patek Philippe keeps expanding its Cubitus collection with its first grand complication, a perpetual calendar. Presented in a 45mm platinum case, the model stands out with its openwork design and rectangular movement. The Patek Philippe Cubitus Collection was unveiled in October 2024. Marking the brand’s first […]

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Patek Philippe Introduces The Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Ref. 5840P-001 Fratello
Patek Philippe Introduces Apr 13, 2026

Patek Philippe Introduces The Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Ref. 5840P-001

With the introduction of the Cubitus collection in late 2024, Patek Philippe established a new design language built around a square case with rounded corners and an integrated, sporty-leaning aesthetic. The initial trio of large-format references focused on time-and-date functionality. Then, smaller models in precious metals arrived in 2025. At Watches and Wonders 2026, the […] Visit Patek Philippe Introduces The Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Ref. 5840P-001 to read the full article.

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Cartier Privé Les Opus is a Trio of Greatest Hits SJX Watches
Cartier Privé Les Opus Apr 13, 2026

Cartier Privé Les Opus is a Trio of Greatest Hits

Cartier’s crowd favourite Privé line is now 10 years old and the jeweller is returning to its greatest hits for the occasion with two offerings, the first being the flagship Cartier Privé Les Opus. “Opus” is a trio of watches, all in platinum, each being of the most desirable models in the Privé collection – Tank Normale, Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir, and Crash Squelette. Both the Tank Normale and Tortue Monopoussoir are variants of earlier models, retaining the same case and movement as before, but now with silvered dials featuring red markings. The Crash skeleton, on the other hand, is a new model powered by a new calibre, the 1967 MC, a hand-wind movement with hand hammered bridges. The Crash skeleton is limited to 150 pieces, while the other two models are regular production The second anniversary trio is Cartier Privé La Collection, yet another trio of greatest hits, but in yellow gold and not limited edition, which we’ll detail in another story. Cartier Privé La Collection made up of the Tank Cintree, Tank Normale, and Cloche Initial thoughts It is now a given that Cartier will mine its rich archive for new launches and Les Opus is exactly that. Given the strength of Cartier’s iconic designs, all three watches in the collection are appealing, with the Crash being a little more novel than its siblings in the line-up thanks to its skeleton movement. None of the three watches win any awards for imagination or innovation, but that is arguably besides...

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Watches & Wonders: the Nomos Tangente neomatik 38 Update Brings the Date Ring and the Midas Touch to a Smaller Size Worn & Wound
Nomos Tangente neomatik 38 Update Apr 13, 2026

Watches & Wonders: the Nomos Tangente neomatik 38 Update Brings the Date Ring and the Midas Touch to a Smaller Size

In the Nomos Glashütte lineup, the Tangente is one that brings it all: the allure of 18-karat gold, sizes that range from 33 to 42mm, a unique and subtle date ring, even a few models rated to 1,000 feet of water resistance.  Now the most popular features merge into one aptly-named release: the Tangente neomatik 38 Update, making its debut at this year’s Watches & Wonders. It begins with the mid-sized case that measures 38.5 millimeters, hitting the sweet spot of popularity and balanced proportions. And it’s now available in 18-karat gold, alongside the stainless steel seen on most Tangente models.  “By introducing Tangente Update in gold,” says Nomos CEO Uwe Ahrendt, “we are also responding to a frequently heard request for modern dress watches, crafted from precious metal.”    The most important feature in this new model is adapting the date ring into a smaller format. The date ring, which Nomos calls Update, circles the edge of the dial with oval windows marking the days of the month, indicating the current date with two red markers on either side.  Previously, the date ring was formerly only available in a 41mm size, or in an unusual two-date system that debuted in 2024. What’s under the skin and behind that 18-karat gold case is the neomatik caliber DUW 6101: an automatic-wind movement with up to 42 hours of power reserve that now gets the same date ring system adapted into a smaller size (just 7.4mm in height, a squeak below the 7.8mm size of the ...

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