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Oyster Case

Rolex's 1926 waterproof case patent, the template for every water-resistant wristwatch.

Hot Take: Rolex’s Perpetual Padellone Annual Calendar Takes A Nod From The Past Fratello
Rolex s Perpetual Padellone Annual Sep 15, 2026

Hot Take: Rolex’s Perpetual Padellone Annual Calendar Takes A Nod From The Past

Rolex has added a rather unexpected complication to its Perpetual collection with the new Perpetual Padellone. Taking its name from the vintage reference 8171, the watch combines a 39mm case with an annual calendar and a moonphase display. At first glance, it is perhaps the dial that grabs your attention, particularly the blue enamel moonphase […] Visit Hot Take: Rolex’s Perpetual Padellone Annual Calendar Takes A Nod From The Past to read the full article.

Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud FB 3SPC.4-1 SJX Watches
Ferdinand Berthoud Sep 15, 2026

Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud FB 3SPC.4-1

The slate of truly new releases from Geneva Watch Days was fairly limited, but among the many new variants of existing models, the Ferdinand Berthoud FB 3SPC.4-1 stood out for its lightweight and richly tactile ceramised titanium case and casual, almost sporty look. Initial thoughts Ferdinand Berthoud (FB) is no stranger to exotic case materials, having used ceramised titanium before (for the FB 1RES.4) as well as carburised stainless steel and bronze. But the FB 3SPC.4-1 is just the second FB 3SPC to come dressed in a non-precious metal case, and the first with a ceramised coating. The FB 3SPC arguably gives up some ground in the looks department, though this is subjective; many collectors find the exposed movement preferable to a conventional dial, since it makes it easier to appreciate the finishing without taking off the watch. That said, the design impacts legibility and some aspects of the layout seem counterintuitive, such as the upside-down orientation of the dial-side balance wheel. The FB 3SPC debuted in 2022 and remains the high-end brand’s entry level model, though with a retail price approaching US$200,000, it’s priced in line with complicated models from established brands. The value proposition of this time-only watch hinges on the appeal of the cylindrical hairspring — which while not unique in contemporary watchmaking is executed superbly — and the no-expense-spared approach to finishing that FB is known for. The pricing also reflects the low-volum...

Introducing - DUG Glashütte Brings Compact 37mm Editions of its Purist Collection Monochrome
Sep 15, 2026

Introducing - DUG Glashütte Brings Compact 37mm Editions of its Purist Collection

Founded by Toni Brodführer, DUG Glashütte focuses on producing watches in accordance with the requirements of the Glashütte designation of origin, and the inaugural Purist was conceived as a straightforward proposition built around the traditions of Saxon watchmaking. The brand is now expanding the collection with a smaller case. The new Purist 37 retains the […]

Introducing: The IWC Ingenieur 50th Anniversary Limited Editions (Live Pics) Hodinkee
IWC Ingenieur 50th Anniversary Limited Sep 15, 2026

Introducing: The IWC Ingenieur 50th Anniversary Limited Editions (Live Pics)

What We Know Today, to mark 50 years of Gérald Genta's Ingenieur SL design, IWC has released two limited-edition modern Ingenieur revival models in stainless steel. Both versions feature the same new dial design in the main 40mm size and a smaller 35mm case. It's a tribute to IWC's slice of Genta history, a throwback to 1976, when Genta's design of the Ingenieur SL, ref. 1832, was first born. The original integrated-bracelet "Jumbo" Ingenieur SL's 40 mm size was ambitious for its time, and sadly the market did not reward it—the release was a commercial failure. IWC notes that it made only 598 pieces between the Ingenieur SL's launch in 1976 and 1983. But today, given the public's general affinity for Genta's iconic integrated-bracelet designs, the fiftieth anniversary of the SL design may be well timed. It references a more obscure dial variant of the Jumbo SL, one with a vertically brushed silver-plated dial rather than the more familiar grid pattern. The exhibition caseback of the 35mm model. In this modern iteration, the specs remain identical to the current 40mm and 35mm models, with the 35mm featuring an exhibition caseback to showcase the Caliber 47110 inside. The 40mm model, with its IWC-manufactured 32111 caliber, has a closed caseback and a soft-iron inner case for increased magnetic-field protection. In a nod to the anniversary, a "50" is printed right below the Ingenieur logo at 6 o'clock, where the "SL" would have been on the original. Each reference is limi...

Hands On: Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Sep 11, 2026

Hands On: Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator

One of the most appealing releases of Geneva Watch Days was the Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator. While not an altogether new model, the watch incorporates a number of welcome updates, including a smaller case and a more refined dial that resembles an instrument panel on the wrist. The L.U.C 98.02-L movement remains in service, and is both COSC and Poinçon de Genève-certified. Moreover, the calibre achieves an impressive nine days of power reserve and is neatly finished, as is typical for Chopard’s higher-end offerings. Initial thoughts Chopard has long been a steward of the regulator format. In fact, the 1963 Heritage Regulator marks 20 years since the brand’s first contemporary regulator wristwatch. The regulator format is strongly associated with precision clocks, but Chopard’s interpretation reminds me of an automotive dashboard — perhaps intentionally, since the brand’s co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele is known for his affinity for vintage cars. The latest example is substantially improved over prior generations, with several nips and tucks that result in a move wearable and less busy package overall. The watch is tangibly well made, with an expensive bill of materials and refined execution. The 1963 Heritage Regulator is priced at about US$50,000, and is limited to a concise run of 25 pieces in (ethically sourced) 18k white gold. By current standards, it’s a reasonable proposition, but still slightly above the going rate for a Patek Philippe...

Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Watches From Geneva Watch Days 2026 (And Beyond) Hodinkee
Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Dusk Sep 10, 2026

Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Watches From Geneva Watch Days 2026 (And Beyond)

In case you somehow missed it, last week was Geneva Watch Days. While not the absolute busiest week of the year for new watch releases, it's not far off the mark, and 2026 saw dozens of brands converging on Geneva to show off their latest and greatest novelties. We covered a lot of those watches as they dropped, but now that we've had a few days to process what we got to see (some of us in person, the rest vicariously), we thought it would be a good moment to share some of the watches that stood out to us from a week full of new watches. And please forgive us: while we did our best to hold ourselves to Geneva Watch Days proper, as was inevitable, a few ancillary picks made their way into the mix, but I think we can all agree they're still watches worth talking about. Of course, our ragtag team of editors can only cover so much here, so once you've seen all our picks, be sure to drop a line in the comments — we'd love to know which watches from Geneva Watch Days stood out to all of you. Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Dusk in Yellow Gold (plus the M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese) [Ben Clymer] Can I pick two? I have to. Because this year kinda felt like the old days – the two watches I'd actually buy of GWD 2026 are from brands I've loved (and owned) a long, long time - Laurent Ferrier and MB&F;. The first is Laurent Ferrier's new limited run of "Dusk" annual calendar moonphases in yellow gold. As you probably know, I love yellow gold, and this is the first iteration of a lovely w...

Recommended Reading: "Bubble Backs" By Masahiro Endo Is An Education On The Original Rolex Collectors' Watch Hodinkee
Rolex Collectors Watch If you've Sep 10, 2026

Recommended Reading: "Bubble Backs" By Masahiro Endo Is An Education On The Original Rolex Collectors' Watch

If you've never collected Rolex Bubblebacks before, you should probably forget nearly everything you know about vintage watches. At least, that's what it feels like you should do when you start wading into the space. Things like reference numbers are much less valuable to remember than movements, case designs, printing details, and a general ability to just remember everything you've seen to get a sense of feel for what is right and what isn't. And trust me, a lot isn't. You could spend decades looking at these watches, but "Bubble Back" by Masahiro Endo, the owner of vintage retailer Private Eyes in Tokyo, is a great reference to jump-start your understanding of an iconic (and currently underappreciated) model. I mentioned this in last week's review of John Nagayama's "96," but the only watch I'd be more afraid to deep-dive into than the Patek ref. 96 is the Rolex "Bubbleback." It's not even an official model, but a nickname for Rolex watches made from 1933 to the mid-1950s with a domed, "bubble-like" caseback. So when you open Endo-san's book, you'll probably immediately be struck by the fact that none of the examples (except the later ref. 6062 and ref. 8171) have reference numbers. According to collectors, that's not the most useful thing for understanding the Bubbleback. Basically, every other detail matters more. We've previously published a story about the bubbleback with a lot of thoughts and tips for understanding these models, courtesy of Ken Jacobs and Justin Gr...

Hands-On Impressions of the New M.A.D.Editions M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese Worn & Wound
MB&F; Sep 9, 2026

Hands-On Impressions of the New M.A.D.Editions M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese

One of the splashiest Geneva Watch Days releases this year was the all new M.A.D.3, the latest entry in the ongoing series from M.A.D.Editions, the popular MB&F; spinoff. You’re probably pretty familiar with the M.A.D. project at this point, but just in case you’re stumbling onto it here for the first time, a brief primer.  Coming from many of the same people behind MB&F;, M.A.D.Editions was originally conceived as a way for brand founder Max Busser to thank his many longtime collaborators with an affordable watch that kept to the same avant-garde spirit of the high end luxury watches MB&F; has been making for years. That first watch was, apparently, not intended to ever be made widely available, a story that is perhaps apocryphal given the incredible success of the project across several release cycles. M.A.D.Editions is now a full fledged microbrand, with watches made available via highly competitive raffles on a regular basis. The brand has pledged to keep their watches affordable, relatively speaking, even as the overall quality of the pieces has been leveled up since the first watches appeared (they have moved to Swiss movements, and the finishing is noticeably nicer on newer watches, including the M.A.D.2 introduced last year).  The new M.A.D.3 leans deeper into an idea we saw with the M.A.D.2, which is to make these watches a genuine collaboration with a friend of the brand. That watch was designed by Eric Giroud, a longtime MB&F; collaborator and one of the more ...

Czapek returns to its Geneva roots with two very different shades of blue Time+Tide
Czapek returns Sep 9, 2026

Czapek returns to its Geneva roots with two very different shades of blue

Czapek celebrated its new flagship at Quai des Bergues 27 by releasing two limited editions during Geneva Watch Days 2026. The Quai des Bergues Midnight in Geneva pairs a 40.5mm steel case with a dark blue aventurine dial and Czapek’s seven-day, manually wound Calibre SXH1. The Place Vendôme Complicité Glacier Blue places its open-worked double-escapement … Continued

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport Hands-On Review: A Bigger, Sportier Carrera WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport Hands-On Sep 7, 2026

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport Hands-On Review: A Bigger, Sportier Carrera

TAG Heuer has just unveiled the new Carrera Chronograph Sport, staying true to the model’s DNA, but in a more beefed-up fashion! What We Love The classic Carrera case shape is still immediately recognisable The move to 42mm makes the Carrera Sport much more wearable than the previous generation The green dial and silver dial variants look particularly good in person What We Don’t At 42mm, it is still a reasonably substantial watch The more robust design won’t have the same versatility as the 39mm Carrera Glass Box The blue dial and black dial models are not as eye-catching Overall Rating: 8.5 / 10 Value For Money: 8/10 Design: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The TAG Heuer Carrera has never really needed an introduction. It has been one of the defining chronographs in the TAG Heuer collection since Jack Heuer introduced it in 1963, and over the years I’ve had the chance to wear and review plenty of different versions. Now, with the new Carrera Chronograph Sport, (just in time for the Madrid Grand Prix, as TAG Heuer is the race sponsor, I might add), TAG Heuer has taken the familiar Carrera formula and given it a little more presence, a sportier feel and, importantly, some better proportions. The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport models As you may imagine, this is not my first time wearing a TAG Heuer Carrera. I’ve reviewed plenty of Carreras over the years, from the revamped Glass Box models introduced in 2023 through to the Rose Gold Carrera ...

Introducing: The New 37.5mm A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down Limited Edition (Live Pics) Hodinkee
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 4, 2026

Introducing: The New 37.5mm A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down Limited Edition (Live Pics)

What We Know Today, alongside a new variation of the technical powerhouse that is the brand's Triple Split chronograph, A. Lange & Söhne introduces a pair of limited-edition 1815 Up/Down references. The new models with blue dials offer not only a new livery but also another compelling proposition for collectors—a smaller case size. The new limited-edition 1815 Up/Down features a return to smaller proportions with a 37.5mm diameter case, smaller than the standard-production 39mm 1815 Up/Down models in the brand's current collection. It isn't the first 1815 Up/Down in 37.5mm; an earlier 1815 Up/Down "Homage to Walter Lange" limited edition took the crown in that regard. But between the first generation's 35.9mm case and the second generation's 39mm case, this diameter right in between is a nice welcome back. Thickness remains unchanged at 8.7 mm. This new blue dial offers eye-catching contrasting subdials, which show off the metallic texture of the base 925 silver dial with snailing underneath the printed scales of the power reserve (AUF/AB, translated to Up/Down) and the small seconds track on the right. Seen on the dial is Lange's signature design traits of the pocket watch-inspired 1815 collection, with a railroad minutes track on the periphery and Arabic hour numerals. Despite the downsizing of the dial, proportions remain generally the same, with none of the hour numerals cut off by the subdials. Offered in white or pink gold, the cases are accompanied by matching go...

A Comeback for the Lange 1815 Up/Down SJX Watches
Sep 4, 2026

A Comeback for the Lange 1815 Up/Down

A. Lange & Söhne’s mid-sized 1815 Up/Down is reincarnated as a dark blue panda 300-piece limited edition in a slender, 37.5 mm case. More faithful than usual to the Glashütte watchmaking tradition, inside and out, the 1815 Up/Down has a lot to offer for an “entry-level” Lange, if ever there was such a thing. Initial Thoughts The dial’s layout is inspired by the most common location for a up/down indicator on a pocket watch, at 12 o’clock, while the running seconds sits in a small sundial at six o’clock. But when a hunter-type movement is packaged into an open face case the up/down indicator moves to nine o’clock and the seconds to three o’clock, as was the case for many deck watches made by the first A. Lange & Söhne company during the Second World War, which is a very handsome dial layout. The lack of up and down, F and E, haut et bas, or, in this case, AB und AUF, on modern power reserve indicators is a pet peeve of mine, and one of the many things Lange does right. Another is two tone dials, the Datograph, especially the sleeker Datograph Up/Down, is one of the best-looking watches out there, and this look quite similar. That, combined with the smaller 37.5 mm case size (down from 39 mm) makes this 1815 Up/Down quite different from its past lives. For me, it is certainly more up than down, with the best-looking dial and a contemporary mid-sized case, so making it a limited edition of 300 pieces in each colourway is disappointing. Another letdown: I pr...