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First Look - Fully Redesigned & Smaller, Meet the New Seiko Samurai Collection (SRPL11, SRPL13 & SRPL15) Monochrome
Seiko Samurai Collection SRPL11 SRPL13 Jun 6, 2024

First Look - Fully Redesigned & Smaller, Meet the New Seiko Samurai Collection (SRPL11, SRPL13 & SRPL15)

One of the Japanese watchmaker’s most emblematic modern dive watches (probably only rivalled by the Turtle), the Seiko Samurai was first introduced in 2004. A large, robust and angular model, this modern-looking watch soon became a classic, only to be discontinued. After almost 10 years of absence, it resurfaced in 2017 in a slightly updated […]

Five Must-Have EDC Picks Under $100 Worn & Wound
May 24, 2024

Five Must-Have EDC Picks Under $100

EDC continues to grow as part of what we enjoy and feature here in the Windup Watch Shop for many of the same exact reasons we love watches. We appreciate usable, practical tools that can evoke feelings of both romance and adventure. What’s more, EDC is often even more varied and affordable than the average timepiece, making everyday carry gear an exciting complement to our watches. Today we look at five EDC picks that are not only must-haves; they are all under $100. And now they are all eligible for free domestic shipping in the US. Take a look and happy trails! EDC continues to grow as part of what we enjoy and feature here in the Windup Watch Shop for many of the same exact reasons we love watches. We appreciate usable, practical tools that can evoke feelings of both romance and adventure. What’s more, EDC is often even more varied and affordable than the average timepiece, making everyday carry gear an exciting complement to our watches. Today we look at five EDC picks that are not only must-haves; they are all under $100. And now they are all eligible for free domestic shipping in the US. Take a look and happy trails! The post Five Must-Have EDC Picks Under $100 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

A Habring2 Doppel 38 “Sector” Dial for Hong Kong SJX Watches
May 7, 2024

A Habring2 Doppel 38 “Sector” Dial for Hong Kong

Made for the 10th anniversary of its retailer in the city, the Habring² Doppel 38 Hong Kong Edition is a split-seconds chronograph sporting the brand’s signature “bullhead” pusher layout. With only 10 made for A Watch Company, the Hong Kong edition is essentially a standard Doppel 38 but with a dial almost identical to that on the Chrono-Felix Shellman 50th Anniversary.  Initial thoughts The basic Doppel 38 is probably the best value rattrapante on the market. It’s a manual-wind split-seconds chronograph with a smartly constructed movement for about US$12,000. Functionality aside, the Hong Kong Edition is even more appealing, thanks to the refined dial design. Admittedly, it is not an original design since it’s clearly vintage inspired – and the “sector” layout has been done by many brands – but it is still a good look. Priced at HK$89,800, or about US$11,500, the Doppel 38 is arguably an even better value proposition than the regular production model thanks to the styling. A value proposition rattrapante Highly regarded for value-minded timepieces, Habring² is Austrian brand run by husband and wife team Richard and Maria Habring. Featuring the “bullhead” pushers at two and ten, the Doppel 38 has compact, elegant dimensions considering the complication, with the steel case measuring 38 mm by 11.5 mm. The case is mirror-polished on the bezel and tops of the lugs with satin brushing on the sides.  The blued chronograph minutes hand has a retro, po...

All of the New Portugiesers from IWC Worn & Wound
Rolex Apr 23, 2024

All of the New Portugiesers from IWC

One of the prevailing narratives to come out of Watches & Wonders 2024 was that it was, across the board, a pretty quiet year. That may have been true for some, but others, like IWC, came to play. A good portion of the attention IWC got this year was (justifiably) directed at the new Portugieser Eternal Calendar that Zach Kazan introduced a few weeks ago, but that watch was far from the only Portugieser IWC brought to Geneva this year. The Portugieser is not the first watch that springs to mind for most of us when contemplating IWC - far more likely would be some sort of Pilot’s Watch or, more recently, the Ingenieur - but it has been, at times subtly, possibly the most important collection in the IWC catalog. I know so many collectors for whom the Portugieser was their first nice watch, and it is a model I continue to see in the wild, especially in cities like New York or London where people still routinely wear suits to work. IWC, like Rolex, is a brand that prefers evolution over revolution when it comes to its designs - one only has to look at the slow transformation of the Pilot’s Watch for evidence of that. The last few years have seen the brand slowly tinkering with the Portugieser line, bringing it up to date and refining what was already a great watch to make it better. This year, they continued that process and introduced a slew of new models and colorways, all of which come together to make up possibly the best lineup of Portugiesers ever assembled. Co...

Hands-On With the Grand Seiko SBGC275, with a Dramatic Red (but Sometimes Orange) Dial Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SBGC275 Apr 15, 2024

Hands-On With the Grand Seiko SBGC275, with a Dramatic Red (but Sometimes Orange) Dial

Something we find ourselves saying a lot: these pictures don’t do justice to this watch. These pictures, by Kat Shoulders, are excellent, of course, but because they only capture a single moment in time, they miss an important element of drama in the dial of Grand Seiko’s new SBGC275. The new Spring Drive chronograph GMT has, at a glance, a pretty brilliant red dial. But thanks to a new process, the color changes, and I mean really changes, when it’s seen at an angle. It’s actually uncanny, and not merely the common experience we’ve all had of seeing the range in tone on a colorful dial as it’s seen in different lighting conditions. It makes a watch that would otherwise feel like “just another variant” something a little more substantial in the Grand Seiko catalog.  Grand Seiko achieves the effect of a color-changing dial with something they call “Optical Multilayer Coating,” which is described by the brand as a physical vapor deposition process. This process results in Multiple layers of a nanoscale film adhering to the dial which allow for the shifts in how we perceive the color. From head on, it looks dark red. But if you start to tilt the dial a bit the tone becomes lighter, and will appear as orange as a Doxa Professional if you turn it just right. The moment where it noticeably changes is an incredibly cool thing and even harder to describe than it is to show in still images. It’s not really a gradual shift, like you’d expect. One second the ...

The Hublot Big Bang Unico Ice Bang Is A Cool Online Exclusive In Ceramic And Tungsten Fratello
Hublot Big Bang Unico Ice Apr 11, 2024

The Hublot Big Bang Unico Ice Bang Is A Cool Online Exclusive In Ceramic And Tungsten

You might be just a few clicks away from the new Hublot Big Bang Unico Ice Bang. It’s an online exclusive only available through Hublot’s e-commerce boutique, and it’s also a limited edition. Just 100 pieces of this black ceramic watch outfitted with a soberly contrasting bezel in tungsten will be made. If you want […] Visit The Hublot Big Bang Unico Ice Bang Is A Cool Online Exclusive In Ceramic And Tungsten to read the full article.

Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Integrated in a 38mm Case Worn & Wound
Hublot Introduces Apr 10, 2024

Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Integrated in a 38mm Case

Today, Hublot has announced not one, but six new versions of the Big Bang Integrated Time Only, and here’s the kicker - this time they’re 38mm. When the first Hublot watch was launched by Carlo Crocco all the way back in 1980, it stood out. Totally different from anything else on the market, it supposedly took Crocco and his team at MDM Watches three years to develop the rubber strap for the first Hublot. The juxtaposition of a high-end gold case and an integrated rubber strap defined that first watch and “The Art of Fusion” would become the signature of a brand defined by experimentation. It was in that spirit that Hublot released the first Big Bang on a bracelet in 2020 (just a few weeks before the pandemic, as it turned out). I remember the prevailing sentiment at the time being slight surprise that a braceleted Big Bang didn’t already exist and a bemused “okay” before everyone got very distracted by the world shutting down. That first 42mm Big Bang Integral Chronograph was followed up by a 40mm Big Bang Integral Time Only two years later. Those first two Integral models featured skeletonized sapphire dials and sporty red and black highlights. Like many large Hublot releases, they each felt decidedly masculine. Today’s new Big Bang Integrated Time Only releases are much more sedate, swapping sapphire skeleton dials for solid ones finished in somewhat more traditional polished blacks or sunray blues. With their more neutral designs and smaller case siz...

Introducing: The Czapek Antarctique Passage De Drake Afterglow And Antarctique Green Meteor Fratello
Czapek Antarctique Passage De Drake Apr 10, 2024

Introducing: The Czapek Antarctique Passage De Drake Afterglow And Antarctique Green Meteor

Only a few weeks have passed since Czapek introduced the Antarctique Mount Erebus Deep Blue models. Both of them presented a familiar aesthetic in precious metals. I love the Antarctique, and a yellow gold version made me fall in love with the watch all over again. For this year’s Watches and Wonders, the brand releases […] Visit Introducing: The Czapek Antarctique Passage De Drake Afterglow And Antarctique Green Meteor to read the full article.

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 58 18K SJX Watches
Breitling Apr 10, 2024

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 58 18K

In a surprising move, Tudor is launching the Black Bay 58 18K (ref. 79018V-006) at Watches & Wonders 2024. Essentially the same watch as the 2021 model, the new 58 18K now sports a matching yellow-gold bracelet, whereas it was formerly only offered on a leather or fabric strap. The dial and the bezel remain in the same green colourway, with gilt markings that match the hue of the yellow-gold case and bracelet. The 39 mm case is complemented by an oversized crown embossed with the Tudor rose logo, while widely cut bevels on the lugs provide a pleasing contrast to the brushed finish of the case. Initial thoughts While the Black Bay 58 18K won’t have as much of a wide appeal as the Black Bay 58 GMT – simply as a matter of affordability – it is a perfect update for a model that looked incomplete on a strap. And the bracelet itself is noteworthy. I like fact that it does away with the fake rivets found on the steel models. The cleaner look feels more modern and functional. At US$32,100, the Black Bay 58 18K is far beyond the usual price range of Tudor, but arguably delivers a competitive value proposition as far as an all-gold diver’s watch goes. Granted, the price is not far off from the Rolex Submariner in gold, which retails for US$39,000, but relative to the competition (such as Omega and Breitling), it is perhaps the most competitive in its segment. All gold and no rivets The Black Bay 58 18K notably features a solid gold bracelet equipped with a “T-fit” clasp ...

Chopard Extends Its Collection With Two Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Models And The Skeletonized Titanium Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT Fratello
Chopard Extends Apr 10, 2024

Chopard Extends Its Collection With Two Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Models And The Skeletonized Titanium Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT

The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is one of my favorite releases of the past few years. The watch came out last year at Watches and Wonders and proved to be one of the show’s highlights. It’s spectacular salmon/copper dial shows the incredible potential of the watch. Not only is the color spectacular, but adding […] Visit Chopard Extends Its Collection With Two Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Models And The Skeletonized Titanium Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT to read the full article.

Every Hermès release from Watches & Wonders 2024 Time+Tide
Hermes Apr 9, 2024

Every Hermès release from Watches & Wonders 2024

As a rule, fashion brands and watches don’t usually mix. However, Hermès is a rare exception. Not only is Hermès one of the most highly revered fashion brands of all time, but in recent years, it has gained a significant foothold in being able to compete with the best in the watch business. Firstly, the … ContinuedThe post Every Hermès release from Watches & Wonders 2024 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hot Take: IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar Fratello
IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar One Apr 9, 2024

Hot Take: IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar

One part inside your watch makes one complete rotation every 400 years. Let that sink in. This is the case with the new IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar ref. IW505701. The calendar will run flawlessly until the year 3999. A regular perpetual calendar would need three corrections (in 2100, 2200, and 2300). Only those centurial years […] Visit Hot Take: IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar to read the full article.

Here We Go Again: the Swatch x Omega Mission to Moonphase New Moon Worn & Wound
Omega Mission Apr 5, 2024

Here We Go Again: the Swatch x Omega Mission to Moonphase New Moon

Well, here we go again. Just a few weeks after the launch of the Swatch x Omega Mission to Moonphase, which saw Snoopy appearing on a pure white MoonSwatch, we’ve got an entirely new creation featuring our beagle friend. By entirely new of course what I really mean is: another color. The Mission to Moonphase New Moon is an all black rendering of the Mission to Moonphase concept. Swatch has been teasing this release over the past several days on social media, so it’s not exactly a surprise, unless you think about the very existence of these watches in the first place, and the conversation that develops around them whenever a new one drops, which is, on its face, surprising.  The new Mission to Moonphase New Moon arrives just before April’s new moon, which is also the date of the total solar eclipse that will be visible to millions of Americans in the eastern part of the country (and many more will see a partial eclipse, which is still quite a thing). One wonders why Omega and Swatch didn’t come up with an eclipse themed watch for the occasion. There are all kinds of ways to play with the idea of blotting out the sun. A Bioceramic rendition of the sun’s corona could have been a pretty cool thing. I shouldn’t say “could have been,” of course. It could well be in the works. Quantum physics has proven that if enough time passes, every possible rendition of the MoonSwatch will eventually come to fruition. Back to the Mission to Moonphase at hand. The New Moon re...

Introducing - The Appealing Carl F. Bucherer Heritage BiCompax Annual Gets a Stylish Grey Option Monochrome
Carl F. Bucherer Heritage BiCompax Annual Gets Mar 22, 2024

Introducing - The Appealing Carl F. Bucherer Heritage BiCompax Annual Gets a Stylish Grey Option

First released in 2019, the Heritage BiCompax Annual quickly became a best-selling watch for Carl F. Bucherer. Merging retro design elements with modern complications and practicality, it is one of the very few timepieces on the market to combine a chronograph and an annual calendar – something you’d imagine only Patek is capable of manufacturing… […]

Swatch Unveils the MoonSwatch “Snoopy” Mission to the Moonphase SJX Watches
Omega are once again dropping Mar 21, 2024

Swatch Unveils the MoonSwatch “Snoopy” Mission to the Moonphase

Swatch and Omega are once again dropping another collaboration that is bound to be a hit, the MoonSwatch Mission to the Moonphase. Inspired by the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch “Snoopy”, the new MoonSwatch features a moon phase along with an all-white Bioceramic case and matching white strap. Snoopy resides on the moon phase display at two o’clock, which features a hidden quote printed in Super-Luminova, “I can’t sleep without a night light!”, that is invisible except in the dark or when exposed to UV light. The Mission to the Moonphase is not a limited edition and instead part of the permanent collection. Initial thoughts Although the MoonSwatch has been a massive hit in terms of units sold – the total sold to date is in the low millions – recent iterations of the model haven’t been particularly exciting, with most of them simply having the addition of a gold-plated seconds hand. With the MoonSwatch Mission to the Moonphase, however, Swatch is bringing something more interesting to the table. While it certainly isn’t imaginative, the appeal of the watch is obvious. For one, it builds on the capitalises on the desirability of the actual Speedmaster “Snoopy”. At the same time, the all-white livery sets it apart from the other MoonSwatch iterations. Like the other versions of the MoonSwatch, the new Snoopy edition offers decent value at US$310. It is inexpensive, though it does feel inexpensive since the case is essentially plastic mixed with ceramic. B...

Introducing - The Brilliant Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer, Now In A Smaller Size Monochrome
Mar 20, 2024

Introducing - The Brilliant Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer, Now In A Smaller Size

When Bernhard Lederer debuts his Central Impulse Chronometer in 2020, it didn’t go unnoticed. Here we had an esteemed independent watchmaker launching a watch with a double escapement inspired by George Daniels’ Independent Double Wheel Escapement pocket watch. Not only did Lederer use it as inspiration, but he also aimed to smooth out its driving force […]

First Look - Bulgari Drops a new Octo Finissimo Automatic Sketch Dial for its 140th Anniversary Monochrome
Bulgari Drops Mar 13, 2024

First Look - Bulgari Drops a new Octo Finissimo Automatic Sketch Dial for its 140th Anniversary

Introduced over 10 years ago (time flies…), Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo collection has become one of the most successful sagas in recent watchmaking history. Not only did these watches break one record for thinness after another, but they also redefined the concept of the ultra-thin watch with a contemporary design and a casual attire. For the […]

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon Plique-à-Jour SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon Plique-à-Jour Mar 13, 2024

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon Plique-à-Jour

A watch that exemplifies the ambitious vertical integration of Louis Vuitton’s watch division, the Voyager Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève Plique-à-Jour combines a skeleton tourbillon movement with a plique-à-jour enamel dial. Transparent and akin to stained glass, plique-à-jour enamel is rare in watchmaking, with only a handful of brands having accomplished it. But this specific form on the Voyager tourbillon, which goes without any backing under the dial, is even more uncommon. Because there is no base for the dial, the transparency of both the dial and the movement is maximised. Initial thoughts The original version of this watch, essentially identical but without the enamel dial, was launched in 2016. Louis Vuitton didn’t get much attention as a watchmaker then, though I liked the watch, particularly the slim profile and open-worked movement made by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). The quality of the watch indicated Louis Vuitton was going places as a watch brand. Louis Vuitton has come a long way since then as a watchmaker. It now boasts several automaton wristwatches, the Rexhep Rexhepi RR01 collaboration, and its own prize for independent watchmakers. Appropriately enough, the Voyager tourbillon has been enhanced, reflecting the substantial expansion and development of LFT since 2016. The movement, dial, and case are all made in-house at LFT, reflecting Louis Vuitton’s impressive manufacture that now rivals some of the most prominent names in haute horlog...

Louis Erard Watches: How the Regulator King Became an Indie Darling Teddy Baldassarre
Louis Erard Watches How Mar 7, 2024

Louis Erard Watches: How the Regulator King Became an Indie Darling

Louis Erard is one of those Swiss watch brands that may have registered on your radar only recently - earning both enthusiast buzz and critical acclaim in the past few years thanks to its very high-profile partnerships with indie watchmakers whose own timepieces might otherwise be unattainable. How did Louis Erard, which actually traces its origins all the way back to the Great Depression, manage to finally find its niche in the 21st Century? Family Foundations Born in 1893 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, a historical hub of Swiss watchmaking, Louis Erard discovered his horological vocation early. In the early 1900s, he began plying his trade as a watchmaker for several of the town’s workshops, and in 1929 founded a watchmaking school where he served as instructor. At the same time, Erard started a watchmaking business with a partner named André Perret, originally as an “assembler” of complete timepieces for third parties using parts supplied by independent artisans. By 1931, the partnership was dissolved and Erard became a producer of watches under his own eponymous brand name. The company grew in the following decades, with Erard’s two sons, René and Jean-Louis, joining in 1945. Among the company’s milestones during this early period was helping to develop the now-legendary Valjoux 72 chronograph caliber. In 1956, Louis Erard, which still used third-party movements in its own watches, advanced to the next stage of horological prestige, starting production of it...

Rado Watches: A History of Mastering High-Tech Ceramics Teddy Baldassarre
Rado Watches Mar 5, 2024

Rado Watches: A History of Mastering High-Tech Ceramics

Once a relative rarity, ceramics have today been firmly established as go-to materials in the luxury watch industry, alongside traditional metals such as gold, steel, and titanium. But no single watchmaker is more associated with ceramics in the horological realm than Rado, which has not only made the tough, scratchproof, hypoallergenic material a core part of its identity but continues to pioneer new frontiers in what can be done with it. Here’s the story behind Rado’s host of technical innovations, from early “hardmetal” alloys to today’s signature high-tech ceramic, and how two of the brand’s milestones from 1962 have become inextricably linked in the modern era. From DiaStar to Diver's Watch Rado was founded in 1917 by brothers Fritz, Ernst, and Werner Schlup, who converted their parents’ home in Lengnau, in the Swiss canton of Bern, into a watch factory. Originally dubbed Schlup & Co.,the family firm started out making movements, becoming an important supplier during the World War II years. Forty years after its foundation, in 1957, the company launched the Rado watch brand, taking its name from the Esperanto word for “wheel.” The very first timepiece made under the new Rado banner was the Golden Horse (modern tribute model above), which was also one of the first wristwatches marketed with an emphasis on its antimagnetic properties. It was the harbinger of the technical innovation that the company would adopt as part of its stock-in-trade going forwa...

Omega’s White Dialed Speedmaster Professional is Here Worn & Wound
Omega s White Dialed Speedmaster Mar 5, 2024

Omega’s White Dialed Speedmaster Professional is Here

In a move that could only be earth shattering, breaking news in the watch industry, one of the most renowned brands has released their most iconic product in a color with no hue. Yes, the Speedmaster Professional, the Moonwatch, can now be had not only with the traditional black dial, but a white version that is perhaps meant to feel a bit more luxe, given its finishing and the (lack of) options consumers will have with respect to the question of crystal, bracelet, and caseback. This release isn’t exactly a surprise to those who follow Omega closely, but it is, all things considered, a fairly dramatic shakeup to the Speedmaster collection. The unveiling of the white dialed Speedmaster is not a big shock or surprise to those who track, predict, or are otherwise interested in new releases from Omega. Daniel Craig, James Bond himself, was spotted wearing what turned out to be a prototype version of the white Speedmaster last year. The jokes about a spy not being able to keep a new watch secret practically write themselves. In any case, it didn’t take long for the collecting community to reach the conclusion that the Omega ambassador was wearing new version of the Speedy to be released at some point in the near future. And a white dial for the Speedy Pro would be fairly predictable even if it hadn’t been spotted on Craig’s wrist. Some of Omega’s most sought after limited edition Speedys have been white, particularly the Silver Snoopy from 2015, and the Alaska Project...