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First Look – The New Yema Navygraf Slim CMM.20 with Micro-Rotor Movement Monochrome
Yema May 7, 2024

First Look – The New Yema Navygraf Slim CMM.20 with Micro-Rotor Movement

A strong advocate of French watchmaking and a brand with history, Yema keeps upgrading its collection with more horological content and designs to please vintage enthusiasts. This blend of modern watchmaking and historic looks was the base of the recently presented Superman Slim CMM.20, the icon of the brand powered by a manufacture micro-rotor calibre developed and assembled in France. Now, it's time for the Navygraf, the other dive watch of Yema to be upgraded and refined with these nice mechanics. Meet the new Navygraf Slim CMM.20 diver.

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Thomas’s Picks From Longines, Lorca, And More Fratello
Longines Lorca May 7, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Thomas’s Picks From Longines, Lorca, And More

It is time for another round of Fratello editors’ favorites in a specific segment. This time, we are looking at the best watches under €2,500, and I get the honor of kicking it off. Now, while €2.5K is a huge amount of money by any measure, it is starting to feel quite limiting within the […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Thomas’s Picks From Longines, Lorca, And More to read the full article.

When the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is More Than an Entry-Level Watch SJX Watches
Rolex Oyster Perpetual May 7, 2024

When the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is More Than an Entry-Level Watch

A no-frills time-only watch, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is now the brand’s entry-level model that’s available in a variety of dial styles and sizes, including the sought-after “Bubbles” dial. But Rolex has been making watches for long enough that the Oyster Perpetual from many moons ago is now a six- or seven-figure watch. Two of these special Oyster Perpetuals figure prominently in Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction. They are final two lots on the last day of the sale: lot 218 is the Oyster Perpetual ref. 6098 “Galaxy”, and lot 219 is the Oyster ref. 6102 cloisonné “La Caravelle” with bombe lugs. The Oyster ref. 6098 “Galaxy” The Oyster ref. 6102 “La Caravelle”. Both are time-only watches with Oyster cases, but the opposite of no-frills. They date from the 1950s, when Rolex was experimenting with a diverse range of dials for the Oyster Perpetual (and perhaps the recent 1908 in platinum is a return to form?) The “Galaxy” gets its name from the star-shaped indices on the glossy black dial, while “La Caravelle” refers to the cloisonné enamel dial made by a leading enameller of the period, Margueritte Koch. Today’s Oyster Perpetual with the “Celebration” dial of coloured bubbles Star-crossed Rolex watches with star dials are marvellous watches (which is why it was the inspiration for our Habring² Erwin “Star”). The most famous and expensive type of Rolex with such a dial is the ref. 6062 “Stelline” triple calendar. Less widel...

Tuul Launches the Filthy 13, a New Take on the Classic Military Spec Tool Watch Worn & Wound
May 6, 2024

Tuul Launches the Filthy 13, a New Take on the Classic Military Spec Tool Watch

It’s always fun when we get to introduce you to a new entrant in the micro-brand tool watch space, and today is no exception. Tuul (pronounced tool) is a brand new Brooklyn-based micro-brand with a focus on - you guessed it - tool watches. If you spend too much time on Instagram (who am I kidding, we all do), you may have seen teasers for their first watch peppered through your feed over the last year. Now, with the introduction of the Filthy 13, we’re finally getting to see what a Tuul watch looks like. For a new brand building their first watch, it is almost always the right choice to go simple. Making a watch is hard, making a good watch even harder, and overcomplicating the process can easily turn the whole thing into a jumbled mess. Besides, tool watches should be simple and straightforward, ready to do their job and not much else. So it’s no big surprise that Tuul has fallen back on a familiar source of inspiration for their first release - the Dirty Dozen watches issued by the MoD to British troops during World War II, which is in many ways the prototypical tool watch. The Filthy 13 follows closely in the footsteps of the Dirty Dozen Watch, Wrist Waterproof spec and carried over the familiar dial layout with central hour and minute hands, small seconds at six o’clock, large Arabic numerals, a railroad minute track, and an abundance of lume. The Filthy 13 swaps the radioactive paint used on the original dials for Super-Luminova, which here has a slightl...

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD Chrono Cycling Edition SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces May 6, 2024

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD Chrono Cycling Edition

Tudor recently revealed another competitively priced chronograph, this time designed for the Tudor Pro Cycling Team participating in the 2024 Giro d’Italia. The Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition” is based on the chronograph made for the Alinghi sailing team and features the same carbon composite case. But the aesthetic is more understated, mostly black with touches of red. Initial thoughts Tudor’s recent support for the sport, including the sponsorship of its cycling team and recruitment of Swiss champion cyclist Fabian Cancellara as a brand ambassador, meant a cycling-centric watch was on the way. Although the Tudor cycling team members were issued a special-edition Black Bay Chrono last year, that watch was not available to the public. Now the team gets a new watch, which is also publicly available. In contrast to the equivalent Alinghi edition, the cycling chronograph has a more subdued, streamlined look that’s mostly monochromatic. The absence of overt cycling branding also adds to the appeal (in contrast, the Alinghi chronograph has the team branding on the inner flange). Save for the design changes, this is identical to the Alinghi edition. Unsurprisingly, the price is also similar at US$5,275. True to the brand’s ethos, the value proposition remains excellent considering the carbon composite case, high-spec movement, and overall quality. Last year’s Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing” Cycling-ready The Cycling Edition is latest version...

The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Panda leans into its vintage cues Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Panda May 5, 2024

The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Panda leans into its vintage cues

It wouldn’t be an unfounded opinion to say that vintage reissues have become a bit stale after a decade of non-stop re-releases. Sure, vintage watches are fantastic, and new watches with vintage looks? Debatably even better. So when TAG Heuer released the Carrera Chronograph Glassbox at last year’s Watches and Wonders, it had a raucous … ContinuedThe post The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Panda leans into its vintage cues appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Geneva SJX Watches
F.P. Journe May 4, 2024

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Geneva

With the current popularity of independent watchmaking, the proportion of auction catalogues dedicated to the genre has grown. At the same time, the obvious slowdown in the market means prices have moderated. The result is a more diverse offering of independent watchmaking, and at lower prices than 18 months ago. The upcoming Phillips’ Geneva auction illustrates this. We take a look at some of the notable examples of independent watchmaking, including a Middle East edition from F.P. Journe, a glow-in-the-dark Voutilainen World Timer, and a trio of time-only watches that are all interesting yet entirely different from Philippe Dufour, Paul Gerber, and Charles Frodsham. The Geneva Watch Auction: XIX takes place over two days on May 11 and 12 the Hotel President in downtown Geneva (a change from the traditional venue of La Reserve). The full catalogue is available on Phillips.com. 62 – F.P. Journe lineSport Chronograph Rattrapante Eastern-Arabic numerals Notably good value in titanium, the lineSport Chronograph Rattrapante is less affordable in platinum but certainly more special, and much more substantial. While the titanium and gold versions are relatively conventional in terms of aesthetics, the platinum version is unusual with its purple dial that works surprisingly well. Like most F.P. Journe movements, the calibre inside is slim, a feat considering the additional height required for the rattrapante mechanism. The split-seconds is done in the traditional manner with...

Tudor Celebrates the Start of the Giro d’Italia with a Cycling Themed Pelagos FXD Chronograph Worn & Wound
Tudor Celebrates May 4, 2024

Tudor Celebrates the Start of the Giro d’Italia with a Cycling Themed Pelagos FXD Chronograph

Tudor has released a new watch in their growing Pelagos FXD collection with the Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition.” The new watch borrows a formula from last year’s FXD releases tied to the Alinghi Red Bull Racing, but this time the focus is on Tudor’s own cycling team, which makes their debut in the Giro d’Italia this weekend. The Giro d’Italia is one of the most important cycling races on the competitive calendar, and this new chronograph has a handful of little touches that might make it particularly appealing to fans of the sport. It strikes many of the same chords, though, as last year’s Alinghi releases, and could point to a new and developing strategy within Tudor in how they work with athletic partners.  At a high level, this is essentially the same watch as the Alinghi FXD chronograph. They share the same 43mm black carbon composite case and run on the same MT5813 chronometer certified movement. The differences, of course, come in the details. The new Cycling Edition watch features a black dial with plenty of red accents, a nod to the colors of the Tudor cycling team. And rather than a rotating dive bezel like the one on last year’s chrono, here we get a fixed 60 minute bezel.  The most interesting change, and I think the one that will have hardcore cyclists most excited, is a tachymeter scale that has been designed with cycling specific intervals in mind. Virtually every other tachymeter scale on modern sports watches is designed to measure th...

Long-Term Keepers: Three Watches I Can’t Bear to Sell Quill & Pad
May 4, 2024

Long-Term Keepers: Three Watches I Can’t Bear to Sell

If GaryG wants to buy a watch of any significance it requires that he sells one or more other pieces. The bad news is that all of the watches he doesn't really love were sold off a long time ago! As a result, the discipline of asking "What watch in his current collection do I love less than this potential new purchase?" has become tougher and tougher. Here he shares three watches that he feels are long term-keepers and why.

Citizen Eco-Drive Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen May 3, 2024

Citizen Eco-Drive Guide

The history of the watch industry is rife with groundbreaking technological developments that came about through necessity. Dive watches’ unidirectional rotating bezels were developed to save the lives of scuba divers by ensuring they wouldn’t misread their time underwater and inadvertently run out of oxygen. Luminous paint on watch dials was invented so wearers could read the time in the dark or underwater. Antimagnetic innovations in watch movements came about as everyday life in the 20th century exposed us to more and more electromagnetic fields that affected our watches’ efficient running. One of the more recent examples is Citizen’s now-famous and still-exclusive Eco-Drive movement - which emerged as a direct result of the worldwide energy crisis that galvanized environmentalists in the 1970s. Citizen pocket watch from 1924 Citizen, like all watch companies that trace their history back to the early 20th Century, was a traditional watchmaker long before it became an innovator in high-tech, electronic timekeeping - founded in 1918 in Japan, as the Shokosha Watch Research Institute. The name “Citizen” first appeared on one of the company’s pocket watches in 1924, an indication that Shokosha, which officially became Citizen Watch Company in 1930, would be devoted to making timepieces that were accessible to “all citizens” of Japan, and eventually, of the world. By the 1970s - with several milestones under its belt, including the first calendar wat...

Fears and Topper Collaborate Once Again for the Limited Edition “Silver Sector” Worn & Wound
Fears May 3, 2024

Fears and Topper Collaborate Once Again for the Limited Edition “Silver Sector”

If you’ve been following Worn & Wound for any length of time, it should come as no surprise that we’re big fans of Fears Watch Company. Since the brand’s revival - Fears released its first 21st-century watch in 2016, though the name has been around since 1846 - they have consistently captured enthusiast attention thanks to a series of refined, eye-catching, and completely modern releases. Suffice it to say, when Fears tells us something new is coming down the pike, we tend to pay attention. Today, they’ve re-teamed with Topper Jewelers, the small family-owned Silicon Valley jeweler known for their stellar collaborations and limited editions, for what just may be one of their best releases so far, the Fears Brunswick 38 Topper Edition ‘Silver Sector.’ The Silver Sector is a slight departure from the two previous collaborations we’ve seen from the partnership between the Bristol-based watchmaker and Topper, trading the California dials that set earlier releases apart for a clean and contemporary sector dial with sub-seconds inspired by watches produced by Fears in the ‘30s and ‘40s. The dial is finished with applied markers and Fears’ signature skeleton syringe hands. It’s a new look for Fears, and it works brilliantly, offering a clean, monochromatic look without sacrificing any of the brand’s signature visual flair. And it’s gonna make for some killer wrist shots and I desperately want to see how this watch photographs through something like ...

Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Full-Gold Rolex Datejust Models - The Hidden Gems Among Gold Rolexes Fratello
Rolex Datejust Models - May 3, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Full-Gold Rolex Datejust Models - The Hidden Gems Among Gold Rolexes

Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we continue our trip through the universe of pre-owned gold Rolex watches. After last week’s list that highlighted some amazing gold Rolex sports watches, it’s time to focus on the Datejust. If you ask most watch fans about their favorite Datejusts, their answers will be either a stainless […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Full-Gold Rolex Datejust Models - The Hidden Gems Among Gold Rolexes to read the full article.

Nomadic Introduces the Turas 914 Landfall Worn & Wound
Nomadic May 2, 2024

Nomadic Introduces the Turas 914 Landfall

Belfast’s Nomadic Watch Company was named after the last remaining White Star Line ship in the world, and the nomadic pursuit of new horizons. Their long-term ambition is to eventually make all their watch components in Ireland, except for the Swiss movements that power them. Their first step towards this goal was opening their state-of-the-art watch assembly and testing facility in Belfast in 2023. Until then, their cases and other components are produced by a world-class supplier in Asia, which far exceeds the capabilities of anything available locally. Turas is an Irish Gaeilge (pronounced Gwal-gah) term, which means journey, expedition, or pilgrimage. What a fitting name for a watch line that is all about exploration. New for 2024 is a Numbered Edition of their Turas 914 line in Emerald Green called Landfall. With this watch, Nomadic wanted to pay homage to explorer Ernest Shackleton and his wingman, Tom Crean. Both shining examples of determination and leadership in the face of overwhelming odds against survival. The new Nomadic Turas 914 Landfall measures 39mm in diameter, 11mm thick, 47.5mm from lug-to-lug and has a 20mm strap width. It has a flat sapphire crystal, with anti-reflective coating and is water resistant to a depth of 100m, making this one a great all around go anywhere do anything watch. Beating at the heart of the Landfall is the revered Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement, which has a power-reserve of up to 41 hours. The bracelet features screw in li...

Introducing – Bianchet Partners with Maserati MSG Racing & Launches Two Limited Flying Tourbillon Grande Date Monochrome
May 2, 2024

Introducing – Bianchet Partners with Maserati MSG Racing & Launches Two Limited Flying Tourbillon Grande Date

In 2021, Bianchet debuted in the watch industry with the Tourbillon B1.618 Openwork, establishing the brand’s design language and paving the way for future releases – like the 2023 Flying Tourbillon Grande Date. In 2023, Maserati returned to the world of open-wheel single-seater motorsport after a hiatus of 65 years. However, instead of the roar […]

Fratello Talks: Watches And Wonders 2024 Debrief Fratello
May 2, 2024

Fratello Talks: Watches And Wonders 2024 Debrief

Hello, and welcome to this week’s episode of Fratello Talks. Today, we wrap up our Watches and Wonders 2024 coverage with a debrief episode featuring Nacho, Thomas, and Lex. The guys take some time to go over some brands (and their corresponding releases) that we missed in episode one. They also discuss the general mood […] Visit Fratello Talks: Watches And Wonders 2024 Debrief to read the full article.

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Tambour Einstein Automata “Only Watch 2024” SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Einstein Automata “Only May 2, 2024

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Tambour Einstein Automata “Only Watch 2024”

The surprising, and to some shocking, Louis Vuitton Tambour Einstein Automata created for Only Watch 2024 is over the top in both aesthetics and complexity. Based on the brand’s automata wristwatch that’s available either as a Chinese mask or vanitas skull, the Einstein Automata has the air of a mad scientist’s creation. Depressing the pusher at two o’clock starts the automata, which also serve to tell the time with a jumping hours display in Einstein’s forehead and the minutes indicated by the atom symbol pointer at eight o’clock. Made in-house at its Geneva manufacture of La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the watch illustrates Louis Vuitton’s impressive matchmaking capabilities, while also bringing to mind the extravagant, casual style of its streetwear. Initial thoughts When I first saw images of the Einstein Automata, I knew I had to see it in person. And in the metal the watch certainly lives up to expectations, it is bizarre, impressive, and wearable, all at the same time. It is bizarre because Einstein is accurately portrayed – the likeness is done well – yet rendered in alien colours of pale blue and silver. It’s impressive because the dial is enamelled and engraved in-house while the movement is exceptionally complex. And it’s wearable despite being a very large watch because the case is in stainless steel, unlike its regular production counterparts that are in gold. Do I like it? I do. But I can imagine a lot of people won’t and I can understand...

San Francisco Here We Come! The Windup 2024 SF Activities Roundup Worn & Wound
May 1, 2024

San Francisco Here We Come! The Windup 2024 SF Activities Roundup

If you’re reading this article, there’s a good chance you’ve been to one of our Windup Watch Fairs in San Francisco, Chicago, or New York City. In the nine years we’ve brought together enthusiasts and brands across the country, it’s been incredible to hear the different stories of how people have come to Worn & Wound and all the reasons they’ve stayed. If you’re a long-time-reader-none-time-attendee lamenting, “I’ve never been to a fair like this before…” – trust us, neither have we. 2024 is going to be a brand new year for the Windup Watch Fair. With over 30 first-time watch and EDC brands as well as many familiar favorites, everyone is in for a treat as we descend on the Fort Mason Gateway Pavilion later this week for the Windup Watch Fair. Maybe it’s our refreshed mission for the year, to include even more enthusiasts under the Worn & Wound umbrella, catalyzing the new EDC Expo with Carryology. Maybe it’s the new venue, the historic (literally) building in the arts and cultural hub along the San Francisco Bay. Maybe it’s the over 90 watches and gear brands coming this year. Ok, a big part of it is the brands. All of these different pieces make this year an all-together new Windup for everyone. If you’re in the Bay Area this weekend, we have two words for you: get here! Fort Mason – Gateway Pavilion, 2 Marina Blvd, San Francisco, CA 94123 Friday, May 3: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, May 4: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, May 5: 12PM – 5PM Free and open ...