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Results for IWC Portugieser

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Portugieser IWC

IWC's 1939 pocket-watch-movement wristwatch for Portuguese maritime officers. Oversized 42mm for its era.

First Look – Dune, Horizon, Obsidian… The New Colours of the IWC Portugieser Chronograph (Incl. Video) Monochrome
IWC Portugieser Chronograph Incl Video Apr 10, 2024

First Look – Dune, Horizon, Obsidian… The New Colours of the IWC Portugieser Chronograph (Incl. Video)

Chronographs made their way into the Portugieser family in 1995 with a sophisticated Valjoux-modified rattrapante (IW3712), followed by a classic chronograph, again with a modified Valjoux, in 1998 with the reference IW3714. And then, in 2020, IWC equipped it with a manufacture column-wheel chronograph movement to become the IW3716 (don’t miss our article comparing the […]

In-Depth: The IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar SJX Watches
IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar Perhaps Apr 9, 2024

In-Depth: The IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar

Perhaps the complication most associated with IWC, the perpetual calendar with its distinctive four-digit year display was introduced in 1985 in the Da Vinci. Today IWC takes the “perpetual” concept to its maximum with the Portugieser Eternal Calendar that boasts a supercharged perpetual calendar, otherwise known as a secular calendar, requiring no adjustment for a thousand years. In addition, it is equipped with a moon phase of unprecedented accuracy – a day in 45 million years. Initial thoughts Even though it appears similar to the standard Portugieser Perpetual Calendar – though it is slightly thicker and wider – the Eternal Calendar is an appealing and note-worthy proposition in terms of its technical merits. The rare complication, however, comes at preposterously steep price. Discreetly dressed in the classic Portugieser case, but the Eternal Calendar reveals a modern twist in the form of the glass dial that shows off the calendar works underneath. To accomplish that, the movement employs a sapphire bridge in the calendar module, marking the first time IWC is using the material as a structural element in a calibre. The extensive use of sapphire hints at the impressive technicality of the movement, giving a sense of tangibility to the mechanics within.  And the mechanics are certainly worth admiring. An “eternal” or secular calendar complication is appealing, for both the mechanical inclined and even the plain romantic who wants something that will go on...

A Handy Guide to the Refreshed IWC Portugieser Collection SJX Watches
IWC Portugieser Collection Apr 9, 2024

A Handy Guide to the Refreshed IWC Portugieser Collection

For IWC, 2024 is the year of the Portugieser. The collection receives a full refresh that covers the Portugieser Automatic 40, Portugieser Automatic 42 (previously known as the 7 Days), Portugieser Chronograph, and Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44. In addition, IWC has introduced an all-new model, the Portugieser Hand Wound Tourbillon Day & Night with a flying (and hacking) tourbillon. The standout debut, however, is without question the Portugieser Eternal Calendar – which we cover in a separate story. With the facelift, IWC has refined its core collection with subtle nips and tucks, including slimmer cases, while retaining the familiar design. The revamp includes new liveries including metallic finish dials in baby blue and champagne. The champagne finish, known as “Dune” Initial thoughts I’ve always enjoyed the aesthetic of the Portugieser collection, which is perhaps the only collection of dress watches of any brand where the (over)sizing is a feature rather than a drawback. The new collection is no exception; each piece is attractive and several models have received thoughtful technical upgrades, including an escapement with enhanced magnetism resistance. And the dials are not merely new colours, but sport detailed finishing and thoughtful details. Of course, there’s little in the way of true novelty in the collection outside of the Eternal Calendar that is a rare complication executed smartly but for an hard-to-believe six-figure price. Even the Tourbillo...

Hands On: IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 SJX Watches
IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 Launched Jul 17, 2022

Hands On: IWC Portugieser Automatic 40

Launched in 2020 as a more wearable version of IWC’s signature large-format dress watch, the Portugieser Automatic 40 is a no-frills three-hander executed in a solid, workmanlike manner that is typical of the brand. Though novel for the current Portugieser line – it’s the smallest model in the lineup – the new automatic isn’t a wholly new idea. IWC did offer a “small” Portugieser some two decades ago, but Portugieser watches since then have been well over 40 mm in diameter. The large size of the various Portugieser models result from the movements, which either have a seven-day power reserve or chronograph, plus a few others that are even more complicated. That left a gap for a “small”, uncomplicated Portugieser. And so it has returned, combining the typical restrained aesthetics of the Portugieser line and the technical quality expected of IWC. Initial thoughts The Portugieser Automatic 40 is a wearable watch with a distinctive but classical aesthetic. Unlike its larger and more complicated counterparts in the Portugieser line, the 40 mm automatic is simple but still has the same recognisable aesthetic as well as a solidly engineered movement. It’s moderately sized, though a little thick due to the movement inside. The movement is a good one, which makes the case height acceptable, though a slimmer case would certainly be more appealing and also echo the vintage original more closely. The cal. 82200 Importantly, it is also eminently affordable. Con...

Richard Habring’s Personal IWC Portugieser Split-Seconds Chronograph Prototype Ref. 3712 At Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XII: A Unique Piece Of Horological History Quill & Pad
IWC Portugieser Split-Seconds Chronograph Prototype May 1, 2021

Richard Habring’s Personal IWC Portugieser Split-Seconds Chronograph Prototype Ref. 3712 At Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XII: A Unique Piece Of Horological History

Lot 165 at Phillips' Geneva Watch Auction: XIII on May 8-9, 2021 is one of the most important prototypes in the history of IWC. A true rarity and a true piece of watch history. It is Richard Habring’s personal Portugieser Split-Seconds Chronograph prototype. Elizabeth Doerr shares its history and meaning here. And why its creator is parting with it.

Up Close: IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3716 SJX Watches
IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3716 Launched Jul 14, 2020

Up Close: IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3716

Launched three years after the Portugieser rattrapante chronograph of 1995, the first-generation Portugieser Chronograph ref. 3714 combined straightforward good looks, excellent dimensions and an affordable price. Unsurprisingly it was resoundingly popular, and a bestseller for over 20 years. Apart from an upmarket spin-off, the ref. 3903 with the in-house cal. 89361 – that was not quite a success due to a size and price – the ref. 3714 remained virtually unchanged since inception except for a new dial colour every so often. The movement within also remained the same over its two-decade production run – the cal. 79350, a gently upgraded Valjoux 7750. Then in 2018, IWC offered the first glimpse of the future when the brand celebrated its 150th anniversary. Amongst the commemorative editions was the Portugieser Chronograph Edition 150 Years ref. 3716, near identical to the ref. 3714 but powered by the in-house cal. 69355. Now the Portugieser Chronograph 3716 has officially joined the catalogue as a regular-production model, replacing the venerable ref. 3714. The ref. 3716 in the classic gold-on-silver guise The ref. 3716 in burgundy Initial thoughts The new Portugieser Chronograph ref. 3716 is essentially a ref. 3714 with a superior, in-house movement. If you liked the original, you will definitely like the ref. 3716. Importantly, the ref. 3716 6 is a good value proposition. It’s priced at less than 5% over the original, a modest and entirely reasonable increase....

Up Close: IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide SJX Watches
IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon Apr 27, 2020

Up Close: IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide

The flagship of IWC’s new Portugieser watches unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2020 is not the most complicated, but it is certainly the most unusual. The Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide is a first for IWC, introducing a brand-new complication to its line-up – a tide indication that tracks the ocean’s ebbs and flows. Initial thoughts The Yacht Club Moon & Tide is a big, heavy and shiny sports watch with twin sub-dials, but it is far more interesting than the typical watch in this category (which is almost always a chronograph). One of the very rare, comprehensive tide-display watches on the market, the Yacht Club Moon & Tide incorporates twin tidal displays, which are useless for most but fascinating, not just because they are rare but also because they are, in essence, an astronomical complication. And the tidal displays are combined with IWC’s trademark double moon phase, making it a bit more compelling. (But like all tide-indicator watches, the new Yacht Club has a caveat: IWC points out it “works reliably on all coasts with two equally strong high and low tides per day”. It is not a flaw, but just a nature of the complication. More that below.) At the same time, the watch overall is constructed to IWC’s usual levels of quality, which is to say excellent. The only downside is the rose-gold case, resulting in a steep price tag; hopefully a steel or titanium version comes along (and it probably will). The tidal watch, until now The tide-indicator complicatio...

New IWC Portugieser Chronographs Now With In-House Automatic Movements Quill & Pad
IWC Portugieser Chronographs Now Mar 6, 2020

New IWC Portugieser Chronographs Now With In-House Automatic Movements

One of IWC’s most emblematic timepieces, the Portugieser chronograph has been a cornerstone of the brand’s collection for many years. The Portugieser, which first appeared back in 1939, has not always been a bestseller. The truth is, IWC failed with three separate launches before the Portugieser finally became a success in the early 1990s. Sabine Zwettler shares a brief history of the Portugieser here and introduces the six new chronograph variations powered by an in-house movement.