Hodinkee
Pre-Owned Picks: A Smiling Tudor Heritage Black Bay, A Breitling SuperOcean With Retro Appeal, And An IWC Mark XX In Blue
Plus the perfect dress watch from A. Lange & Söhne and a green Cartier Santos.
Results for Lange
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Lange 1 A. Lange & Söhne
The 1994 watch that relaunched A. Lange & Söhne. Golden-ratio dial and outsize date.
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Zeitwerk A. Lange & Söhne
The 2009 mechanical jumping-digital wristwatch from A. Lange & Söhne. Hours and minutes on three discs.
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Datograph A. Lange & Söhne
The 1999 flyback chronograph from A. Lange & Söhne with the in-house Cal. L951.1 movement.
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Saxonia A. Lange & Söhne
One of the four founding references of the 1994 A. Lange & Söhne relaunch. Time-only Saxon classic.
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Hodinkee
Happenings: Wilhelm Schmid To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
The A. Lange & Söhne CEO will discuss the brand's very own way of watchmaking, philosophy and future.
SJX Watches
Highlights: Notable Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Autumn Auction
Commencing in early October, the autumn auction season begins with Sotheby’s Important Watches I, a catalogue of 205 lots that will be sold on October 7 in Hong Kong. The auction includes artisanal timepieces, examples of independent watchmaking creativity, and exceptional complications. Here, we present eight notable complications including some unsurprising, six-figure picks like a Patek Philippe ref. 5004R with a special-order dial and a Rolex ref. 6062 “Stelline” from the original Japanese owner. But the list includes some that may fly under the radar but deserve recognition, such as the travel-ready Richard Mille RM62-01 (albeit conceived for flying private) and an impressive Patek Philippe ref. 942 grand complication pocket watch that includes a grande and petite sonnerie, putting it in the top rank of all pocket watches. Important Watches I takes place on October 7, 2023. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 2166: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar ref. 345.056E The Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar has effortlessly fuses the renowned Lange 1 design with a complex movement, conspicuously excluding the tourbillon found in its larger counterpart. At launch, the watch was available in two guises: pink gold with a grey dial or the more popular, limited edition white gold with a “salmon” (pink gold) dial, as we see here. In contrast to conventional calendars that employ sub-dials, the Lange 1 perpetual calendar sea...
Worn & Wound
The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – RG
Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader RG shares a trio of killer watches that cover a range of flavors. From complications like a big date and GMT, to simple time only affairs, there’s a lot to love with these three watches. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. Mido Multifort TV Big Date – $1,200 With an impressive finishing at the price point and harkening back to the vintage TV case shape, Mido brings their own take on the steel sports watch. With some cues and derivatives from the fames Patek Philippe Aquanaut, Mido makes use of the TV case in a great way. The finishing is outstanding, like we have come to expect from the brand. And it also boasts a proprietary movement that is only shared with Certina. Other features that are very much appreciated are the sapphire glass with anti-reflective coating, see-through case back, that although not the most beautiful movement out there is still nice to look at and the compact size of 40mm in diameter with a lug-to-lug width of 46.5mm that is sure to fit the majority of wrists out there. But perhaps the one that steals the show, as it suggests in the name, is the “big date” complication. A complication normally reserved for high horology masterpieces from the like of A. Lange & Söhne and Glashüte Original. This one was an easy grab for me. Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT – $1,200 Christopher Ward has long been ...
Hodinkee
Pre-Owned Picks: A Rolex GMT Master Ref. 16700, An Omega ‘Tintin’ Speedmaster, And An All Black Must de Cartier
Plus an A. Lange & Söhne full of hidden complications and a tribute to the early JLC Reverso.
SJX Watches
In Depth: Marco Lang Zweigesicht-1
Marco Lang made a comeback in 2020 with his eponymous brand and the Zweigesicht-1. The year before the German watchmaker departed his prior brand after disagreements with the investor who was the majority owner, which allowed Mr Lang to revert to being a true independent watchmaker. Despite a relatively conservative face, the Zweigesicht is quirky and original from a technical perspective. Zwei gesicht translates as “double faced”, which describes the watch literally. It has two faces, one on each side of the case, both of which indicate the time. The watch can be worn on either side thanks to lugs that are removable (in an operation that requires delicate manual work). And the movement incorporates a novel, and perhaps unnecessary, shock recorder. Initial thoughts To start with, zwei gesicht is a mouthful for non-German speakers. Perhaps for that reason, fellow German watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne opted for made-up words like Zeitwerk and Datograph. But despite the unfamiliar name, the watch is elegant in form, measuring under 10 mm high, and impressive in decoration and construction. The zwei gesicht nature of the watch gives it two distinct appearances, a low-key conventional front and an elaborate, mechanical reverse. Two-faced watches are not new by any means, but Mr Lang’s approach is notable for rely on conventional lugs and by consequence, maintaining a classical appearance. In contrast, most double-faced watches are either rectangular or have unusual lugs. T...
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Petermann Bédat Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph
Having made its debut in 2020 with the 1967 deadbeat seconds, Petermann Bédat recently unveiled its second watch, the Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph. The 2941 lives up to the benchmark established by its predecessor with a traditionally-styled movement that is decorated to an impressive degree, albeit one that reflects constraints in its development. The brand’s founders, Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat, are both watchmakers in their early 30s who studied watchmaking in Geneva before a stint at A. Lange & Söhne. The pair also spent time carrying out restorations of vintage watches. Their shared experience is illustrated in the 2941, most notably in the traditional decoration and styling of the movement. Initial thoughts When Petermann Bédat made its debut in 2020 with the 1967, a time-only with deadbeat seconds, independent watchmaking was a much less crowded space. As a result, the 1967 stood out for both its intrinsic qualities, namely excellent finishing and traditional mechanics, but also the fact that it was fairly novel. Now time-only watches with seemingly good finishing seem to be everywhere, most of which are even similar to the Petermann Bédat profile in having founders in the their 30s and 40s. So Petermann Bédat did well in introducing a following up with something more complicated for its second model. The 2941 continues with the aesthetics of the 1967, essentially a modernised “sector” dial, and also the movement finishing. The quality...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The New Limited Edition 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar In White Gold
It's an iconic new dial color for one of Lange's great chronographs – just don't call it salmon.
Teddy Baldassarre
24 Perpetual Calendar Watches from The World's Leading Luxury Watchmak
The most sophisticated type of calendar watch, a perpetual calendar is endowed with a mechanical “memory” that enables it to record and display the time, day, date, month, and often the moon-phase, accurately for many years. The complex movement in a perpetual calendar compensates for the length of every month, including February in both leap years and non-leap-years, meaning that it should not need adjusting until the year 2100, which is the next annum in which the Gregorian calendar’s leap-year cycle is disrupted (it will be the first year since 1900 that is exactly divisible by 100 but not by 400, and thus not a leap year). As you'd expect, perpetual calendar watches (called "quantième perpétuel" in French) are extremely complicated in their mechanics and design, representing one of the highest pinnacles of high horology and priced accordingly. Throughout the modern wristwatch industry, only a relative handful of brands have mastered the art of the perpetual calendar: we showcase some of them, and their most impressive perpetual calendar timepieces, here. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar Introduced in 2021, the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar adopts the new approach taken to perpetual calendar design that the Saxon maison established in 2012 with the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar. In typical Lange fashion, the technical approach taken is complex in the service of user-friendly practicality. Its in-house, self-winding movement, Caliber L021.3, ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Iconic Watches: The Ultimate List
The definition of an iconic watch is, of course, highly subjective, and a consensus on what makes a watch iconic is just about impossible to achieve. However, most of us likely agree on several key points. An iconic watch should be timeless in its appeal, influential in its design, and impactful in its market presence. Ideally, an iconic watch should also be one that has remained true to its original conception throughout the years and recognizable by even the most casual of watch enthusiasts. Often, a watch becomes iconic when it becomes associated with a celebrity or other historical figure, and some achieve iconic status simply by being the trailblazer for a certain complication or now-ubiquitous function or element. Our team took all of these factors into account while tackling the bold and frankly somewhat intimidating task of listing the world's most iconic watches. As you'll note upon reading the list, each watch we chose is defended with its Case for Icon Status based on the above criteria. Scroll down to read the list, which includes one iconic movement (you can probably guess which one) and four timepieces that might be a bit too new on the scene for definitive inclusion but which we can confidently call the Icons of Tomorrow. Of course, any listing such as this is guaranteed to generate opinions, which we encourage you to share in the comments section at the bottom. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 History: Even though the Lange 1 has only been on the scene since 1994,...
SJX Watches
Highlights: “The Ultimate Collection” at Christie’s Hong Kong
Having concluded its Geneva sales that included an F.P. Journe thematic auction, Christie’s will soon open its spring sale season in Hong Kong. The auctioneer’s watch offerings include an impressive line-up of watches assembled over two decades by an Asian collector. Christened The Ultimate Collection, the selection is composed of 107 timepieces – almost all modern – ranging from Rolex to F.P. Journe. Although the watches are diverse, the collector’s keen eye can be discerned. The catalogue includes classic must-haves like various examples of the Rolex Daytona and GMT-Master II, but also rare and special watches from F.P. Journe as well as possibly-unique Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts. We round up nine notable picks from the sale, including the headline lots from F.P. Journe – a Chronomètre à Résonance “RTA” with a mother-of-pearl dial and the Tourbillon Souverain Coeur de Rubis. The “Coeur de Rubis” dial Other highlights including a Patek Philippe Dome Clock that was originally owned by Jean-Claude Biver of Hublot and Blancpain fame, along with uncommon variants of the landmark Lange 1, including the Lange 1A and ref. 101.027X. The Ultimate Collection takes place on May 26 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC) – the catalogue is available here. Lot 2537 – F.P. Journe Centigraphe Souverain Anniversaire “Hong Kong” In 2016, F.P. Journe marked the 10th anniversary of its first ever boutique (which was in Tokyo) with the ...
Revolution
In Conversation with Georges Kern: The Success Story of Breitling
“Only success will prove that we are right.” – Georges Kern. Joining the Richemont Group in 2000, Mr. Kern was highly involved in major brands like A. Lange & Söhne, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and IWC Schaffhausen following their acquisition by the group. In 2002, Kern was chosen to be the CEO of IWC and became the youngest […]
SJX Watches
Insight: The Ingenuity of the F.P. Journe Centigraphe
Modern mechanical chronograph movements have mostly been conceived according to two standardised recipes. One is the vertical clutch approach exemplified by the the sporty, performance oriented cal. 4131 inside the Rolex Daytona, while the other is the classical, lateral coupling architecture used by the celebrated L951.1 in the Lange Datograph. Sticking with a successful architecture is no bad thing, after all, chronographs are complicated enough in their basic form. However, there are some chronographs that stand out for being truly original, like the F.P. Journe Centigraphe and its cal. 1506. Constructed like no other chronograph on the market, the Centigraphe seeks to measure times with a resolution of 1/100th of a second with a unique movement that is modern in its approach yet subtly references the work of John Harrison. In many ways it encapsulates the philosophy of François-Paul Journe, which prizes original, creative watchmaking that pays tribute to historical greats. The cal. 1506 Despite its achievements, the Centigraphe is overshadowed by the brand’s signature watches, namely the Resonance and Tourbillon Souverain, and remains one of of F.P. Journe’s less-known offerings. Paradoxically, the Centigraphe should be more recognised than most other F.P. Journe watches because has a tangible link to the world of celebrity with its Formula 1 provenance, having been conceived at the suggestion of Jean Todt, the former boss of Ferrari’s Formula 1 team. Although...
Deployant
Chief Editor’s Choice of the most impressive 3 watches of the W&W; 2023 season
And to round up this year's picks, the Chief Editor makes his top 3 picks from this year's show. Picks from Lange, JLC and Grand Seiko.
Hodinkee
How I'd Spend $100K: First, I’d (Predictably) Buy A Vintage Rolex And A Speedmaster. Then Go Quartz, Dressy, And Gold.
After locking down the essentials, I'd spend on undervalued dress watches from Cartier, Breguet, and Lange.
SJX Watches
Watches & Wonders Geneva Announces Public Days
The world’s biggest luxury-watch fair, Watches & Wonders (W&W;), is set to take place in Geneva from March 27 to April 2, 2023 at the Palexpo convention centre. The successor to both SIHH and Baselworld, W&W; will see forty-eight brands showcase their latest. This year’s exhibitors include Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, as well as the the big luxury groups, namely Richemont, which owns Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, and A. Lange & Söhne, and LVMH, owner of TAG Heuer, Zenith, and Hublot. W&W; will be open to the public on its final two days of April 1 and 2. Tickets, however, will be required to attend W&W;. They will be available for purchase on the W&W; website starting February 1, 2023, at 12 pm (GMT+1). A ticket costs CHF 70, similar to that of Baselworld. Beyond the fair in Palexpo, W&W; also encompasses events in the city centre meant to enhance accessibility. Exhibiting brands with boutiques along Rue du Rhône and Rues Basses, adjacent streets in Geneva’s prime shopping area, will stage their own events and exhibitions in their stores. At the same time, the organising body of W&W; will have talks and panel discussions at its headquarters at Pont de la Machine. The public days of W&W; bring it closer to the Baselworld model, which historically opened its doors to one and all, both in terms of exhibitors and visitors. As a result, Baselworld enjoyed a six-figure visitors numbers in its best years (though its exhibitors included the jewellery trade and suppliers). In ...
Time+Tide
The 5 best high complication watches of 2022
It’s nearly impossible to distil and encompass the variety and unique features of last year’s best complication into only five picks, but we’ll do our best to try, while having to include only a couple honourable mentions. Like any other year, established players in mainstream high-end watchmaking like Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Söhne … ContinuedThe post The 5 best high complication watches of 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A 1979 Rolex Day-Date, A 1990s Blancpain Villeret Chronograph, And A 1969 Omega Speedmaster Mark II with 'Racing' Dial
Kick off your 2023 in style with a selection of curated vintage watches from the likes of Rolex, Blancpain, Lange, and more.
SJX Watches
Year in Review: Our Best Stories of 2022
As we reflect on the past year, we’re proud of the stories we published and grateful for all of our readers – we appreciate you. Before the year closes, we want to revisit some of your favourite stories from 2022, from in-depth reviews of the most significant watches of the year to our fascinating conversations with thought leaders within the industry. Technical deep-dives Understanding of today’s most complex timepieces can be a challenge (even for us sometimes). But with our string of in-depth reviews, we aim to help the reader better appreciate these watches. Amongst the year’s highlights us two-part, in-depth examination of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 (you”ll find the second part here) with its highly skeletonised movement featuring a one-second remontoir and tourbillon mounted on the same axis. Another story with a substantial focus on Japanese watchmaking was an engineer’s perspective on quartz watches: a personal take on the complexities of the technology and why it can stand on par with the mechanical watches. Understanding the symmetrical construction of the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon We also covered more conventional high-end watchmaking, but in our unique, detailed manner. We of course looked at the second-generation A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk, which received a major upgrade thanks to a revamped movement. And to help put the new Zeitwerk in context, we published a collector’s guide that compiles all the known var...
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Insight: Fine Watchmaking Market Map in 2022
For almost as long as I’ve been interested in watches, I’ve tried to find an objective way to visualise the stratification of the various luxury watch brands. I’m as fascinated by the process of watchmaking as much as the products themselves, and I wanted to find a way to differentiate brands based on the production techniques they employ, yet do so objectively. I believe you can tell a lot about a brand’s values and capabilities by looking at their methods, but it can be difficult to penetrate the smoke and mirrors of luxury watch marketing to see what’s really going on behind the curtain. An objective measure: watchmaker-hours per watch In my review of the Saxonia Thin last year, I used the metric “watches per watchmaker” to illustrate the economics of A. Lange & Söhne. While this is not a perfect metric, it is simple and quantitative, and crucially, it can often be derived from publicly available information. Taking this analysis one step further, I added Swiss, German, and Japanese national statistics for working hours to calculate the maximum possible number of watchmaker-hours per watch for more than 50 luxury watch brands. The start of the map, the Saxonia Thin How to interpret this metric The watchmaker-hours metric is not the number of hours that a watchmaker spends on every watch. Rather, it’s the theoretical maximum number of hours that a brand’s watchmakers could possibly spend with each watch. This workrate can be viewed as a simple proxy fo...
SJX Watches
Highlights: Chronographs at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction
Having already covered highlights in two categories – independent watchmaking and interesting complications – in Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction, we now focus on a crowd favourite when it comes to complications, the chronograph. We look at eight chronographs that stand out in The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV. They range from an esoteric Patek Philippe made for an English football club owned by a Thai duty-free shopping magnate to and a fine specimen of the mythical Omega Speedmaster “MIR-90 90 Days” that spent three months on the Russian space station. Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be found here. The Patek Philippe ref. 5960/1A-011 made in 2016 to commemorate Leicester City becoming Premier League champions for the first time Lot 813: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph, first-generation “Meter” dial Since its introduction in 1999 as Lange’s first chronograph, the Datograph is of the German brand’s most iconic timepieces. Even independent watchmaker Philippe Dufour famously fawns over the movement – he owns an example in rose gold – that is a masterpiece of impeccable craftsmanship and attention to detail. This example is a first-generation model with a 39 mm platinum case and a glossy black dial, arguably the quintessential Datograph. Keen-eyed collectors will notice “METER” on the tachymeter scale, indicating this is one of the earliest examples of the model. The warranty confirms that with a 2001 purchase date. Lange began usin...
SJX Watches
Highlights: Complications at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction
Having covered highlights from the independent watchmakers at Phillips’ The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV, we now dive into the complicated timepieces in the sale that takes place on November 28 and 29 – an appropriate theme given that the three most valuable lots according to the estimates are complicated watches from Patek Philippe. In this roundup, we look at nine lots that stand out. Some like the ref. 5207P with the uncommon mahogany guilloche dial are six-figure, headline lots, while others are value propositions that might slip under the radar but worth noting, like the Cartier Privé Tonneau XL Skeleton Dual Time. Registration for bidding and the entire catalogue for sale can be accessed here. The ref. 5207P with a brown guilloche dial and matching obsidian inlays in the case and slide Lot 817: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone “Buenos Aires” Here, we have the Lange 1 Time Zone that was first introduced in 2005. With the trademark Lange 1 dial layout and oversized date, the Time Zone maintains the recognisable Lange 1 style with its “Golden Proportions” despite being able to do much more than a standard Lange 1. This particular variant came about when Buenos Aires retailer Simonetta Orsini requested a limited edition for Argentina. The cities disc thus has Buenos Aires (“B. AIRES”) to indicate UTC-03:00, instead of Rio de Janeiro as is the norm for the model. But more significant for the Lange enthusiast is the silver dial with blue hands and ma...
Teddy Baldassarre
100 Best Instagram Accounts for Watch Enthusiasts
There is tons of content on Instagram for watch enthusiasts - almost too much of it, some might argue. But how do you know you’re getting what you’re looking for as you scroll down your feed? For that matter, which of the many dozens of accounts devoted to engaging the #watchcommunity should you be following based on your own interests and favorites? After asking our audience for their favorite watch-related accounts, we’ve compiled the 100 best Instagram pages for watch lovers, divided into categories. There’s something here for everyone, whether you’re seeking out celebrity wrist shots, rare vintage pieces, specific brands in the spotlight, cheeky watch-world memes, or just really eye-catching watch-lifestyle photography. Affordables @affordablewristtime A showcase of watches under $1,000, linked to a review website. @practicalwatch Spotlighting watches with a price ceiling of $1,500. Brand Specific @billiosophy A Hong Kong watch collector shows off his collection, mostly German pieces, heavy on A. Lange & Söhne. @rolexaholics Just what you'd expect: a plethora of Rolexes from a variety of collections. @gshock626.socal Despite the handle, this page is all about showing Seiko. @creatingcartier A member of the Cartier family shares stories of watches and jewelry. @lapinist_watchrestoration Watch restorer of Grand Seiko cases and movements shows his work @rolex_lover Rolex photos and wrist rolls, updated daily. Celebrity Watches @insaneluxurylife Cel...
SJX Watches
Phillips Stages Largest-Ever Watch Preview Exhibition in Singapore
With the fall auction season about to begin, Phillips will soon open its preview exhibition in Singapore, the largest of its kind to date. The exhibition is an expansive assembly of 210 watches encompassing highlights from the Geneva, Hong Kong, and New York auctions. Amongst the watches on show are a few of the most important watches that will be sold this year, a few of which will undoubtedly set records when they go under the hammer. Independent watchmaking is strong represented with watches like the George Daniels Spring Case Tourbillon, not one but two examples of the Philippe Dufour Simplicity, and of course several early or limited edition F.P. Journe watches. The Simplicity from the Geneva auction, a recent example in white gold made after the first 200 pieces And from the Hong Kong auction, a Simplicity also in white gold but from the original 200-piece edition The selection from establishment brands is equally varied and impressive. It includes Geneva’s Lange 1815 Chronograph “Hampton Court Edition”, a one-off made to benefit charity, and from the Hong Kong sale a crisp first-series Patek Philippe ref. 2499 in yellow gold. The engraved, hinged back of the 1815 Chronograph “Hampton Court” The first series ref. 2499 The preview exhibition in Singapore takes place at the St. Regis Singapore from October 13-15. It’s open to the public from 11:00 am to 7:00 pm daily. The St. Regis Singapore 29 Tanglin Rd Singapore 247911 This was brought to you in partner...
SJX Watches
Highlights: Unorthodox Sports Watches at Sotheby’s Hong Kong
Following our round up of independent watchmaking highlights at the Sotheby’s upcoming Important Watches I auction in Hong Kong, we now turn to something more conventional and even fashionable: high-end sports watches. But naturally we’re not going to run through the unorthodox examples that need no extra publicity (though one “hype” watch might have slipped in). Our selection of a half dozen includes an early Richard Mille and possibly a value buy, a IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Monopusher Edition that has an interesting and little known movement. Important Watches I starts at 10:00 am (GMT +8) on October 5, 2022. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. The RM002-V2 Lot 2161: A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus An entirely new collection that debuted just in time for the modern brand’s 25th anniversary, the Odysseus is an outlier for a watchmaker that historically focused on high-end, classical watches. Though the Odysseus sports a design that’s unsurprising for Lange, it is the brand’s first watch with an integrated bracelet. More notably, the Odysseus was the first regular production Lange watch in steel. But we’re not here to talk about the heavily-hyped steel model, instead this is the model in white gold, which arguably offers more value than the steel version at market prices. The integrated-bracelet sports watch arena has long been dominated by the Royal Oak and Nautilus, so what makes the Odysseus a contender? The same characte...
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Sincere (Re)Opens SHH Concept Store in Singapore
With edgy decor that set it apart from a typical luxury-watch store of the period, the inaugural Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH) in Singapore’s Hilton hotel was one of the world’s first “concept” stores dedicated to high-end mechanical watches when it opened in 2005. After a run of well over a decade, the original SHH store closed in 2019, but the format has now made a comeback at Marina Bay Sands (MBS) casino complex. Located along a stretch of the mall dominated by watch and jewellery brands, the new SHH once again focuses on niche and independent brands. Its stable of brands total 19 and include Greubel Forsey, H. Moser & Cie., Laurent Ferrier, Parmigiani, and Ferdinand Berthoud. Reboot and revive Being amongst the first retailers in the world to offer brands that were then just startups but would go on to do great things – Sincere took on Franck Muller in 1992, Lange in 1995, Panerai in 1998, and F.P. Journe in 2000 – SHH was a logical progression of Sincere’s retail strategy in the early 2000s. “[SHH in Hilton] was meant to be a touch point for very fine mechanical watches and high end brands,” says long-serving Sincere chief executive Ong Ban, “At the same time, it was also a launchpad for what we thought were the future stars of the industry.” Projects like the first SHH helped established Sincere as one of the three biggest watch retailers in Southeast Asia, alongside Cortina Watch and The Hour Glass. But after several changes in ownership, S...
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In-Depth: MB&F; LM Sequential EVO
MB&F; has just rolled out its very first chronograph, which becomes the second model in its EVO line of sports watches that began with the LM Perpetual EVO, now the brand’s bestselling watch. Christened the Legacy Machine Sequential EVO, the new chronograph continues with the same aesthetic of an open dial that reveals the mechanics along with a streamlined case. The LM Sequential EVO is most interesting for its movement, which is paradoxically complicated yet simple. Developed by Stephen McDonnell, a constructor who’s been a longtime collaborator with MB&F;, the movement is a double chronograph capable of recording twin times simultaneously along with a “Twinverter” mechanism that can either operate both chronographs or invert them – a complicated endeavour. But the setup is a simple one, essentially two discrete chronograph mechanisms that operate independently but linked by the inverter mechanism. Initial thoughts I was impressed by the LM Sequential EVO when I first saw the watch. It is a big, imposing watch with sleek lines and a wide face that is filled to the edges with intricate mechanics and quadruple sub-dials packed tightly together. Despite its size, the watch wears well due to the shape and length of the lugs, while looking like a grand complication on the wrist. And once I understood that it was a double chronograph, I was even more impressed; it looks even more complicated than the top contenders in the category, namely the Lange Triple Split and Au...
Time+Tide
No, the dial of the Moritz Grossmann Central Second Purple isn’t a pigment of your imagination
If you’re not already familiar with all of the Glashütte watchmakers, you may not have come across Moritz Grossman before. They might not enjoy the international recognition of brands like A. Lange & Söhne and Glashütte Original, having only been resurrected in 2008, but they make up for that with some of the most outstanding … ContinuedThe post No, the dial of the Moritz Grossmann Central Second Purple isn’t a pigment of your imagination appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
This Girard-Perregaux Laureato traded below €40k, now it’s over €100k
Editor’s Note: We recently partnered with @watchanalytics to crunch the numbers and dig into the horological market trends and value fluctuations for the references that matter. Last time, we delved into the first generation A. Lange & Söhne Datograph watches, and whether or not they are seriously undervalued today. Today we are going to dive into … ContinuedThe post This Girard-Perregaux Laureato traded below €40k, now it’s over €100k appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Nomos Introduces the Tangente Neomatik “Platinum Gray”
One of the four original models that Nomos launched as its inaugural collection in 1992, the Tangente is the brand’s longest-running model, having grown both literally and metaphorically – the case has expanded from a tiny 35 mm to today’s 41 mm, while the line has grown to include dozens of models. Now the Glashütte watchmaker has just given the automatic model an update to create the Tangente Neomatik “Platinum Gray” with a restrained dial that has a subtly sparkling grained finish and a case available in either 35 mm or 39 mm. Initial thoughts Despite being a simple iteration of an existing model, the Platinum Gray is a pleasing addition to the range. The highlight is the elegant dial, which calls to mind another watch made in Nomos’ hometown, the platinum Lange 1 nicknamed “Stealth” for its silver-on-silver palette. But the Tangente is clearly different – and far more affordable – as it looks less formal with its large Arabic numerals (and ironically the typography was inspired by vintage Lange wristwatches). Like other recent Nomos watches, the Platinum Gray is a variation on a theme – essentially just a new dial – which makes it repetitive. The lack of innovation or novelty can leave Nomos feeling unexciting at times, though the strong design identity and affordability of the brand remains appealing, as does its affordability. With a price tag that starts at US$3,070 and rises to US$3,780 depending on the case size and back, the Platinum ...