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Low-Impact Watchmaking For A Changing World - Hodinkee Magazine
Like every industry, ours is trying to improve. Where does greenwashing leave off, and real change begin?
2,700 articles · 12 videos found · page 30 of 91
The Swiss Jura town where Daniel Jeanrichard planted watchmaking c.1700. Home to Ulysse Nardin, Tissot, Zenith, TAG Heuer HQ.
39.3 mm × 9.75 mm, lug 19 mm, Cal. Powermatic 80
Hodinkee
Like every industry, ours is trying to improve. Where does greenwashing leave off, and real change begin?
Hodinkee
Come learn from professional watchmakers!
Quill & Pad
Trilobe, in collaboration with French conceptual artist Daniel Buren, created a clock with an aesthetic designed to jar you awake for the Only Watch 2021 charity auction. And Trilobe's Nuit Fantastique, currently competing in the Petite Aiguille category of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève, represents the next step in aesthetic direction for Trilobe. Joshua Munchow takes a closer look at both.
Hodinkee
"As all experienced navigators know, it is extremely easy to get lost." - Philip Van Horn Weems, Air Navigation, 1931
Hodinkee
No, Rolex doesn't own it. But you can go see it.
Hodinkee
'2001: A Space Odyssey' called, they want their clock back.
Deployant
Singapore, which is our home and host, celebrates her 56th National Day today. We interrupt regular programming today to bring Singaporeans and friends National Day greetings. Majulah Singapura! As usual, we take a break from watches and all things horological today. Singapore 56th National Day
Revolution
Wei Koh gives his initial takes on the new Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze, which takes its lead from the first iteration of the Bronze watch, with a brown dial and bezel insert. He walks us through the creation process of the bronze-aluminium alloy they use, also demonstrating the new clasp on the bracelet called T-Fit, which allows the wearer to alter the length by 8mm quickly and without the need for any tools.
Quill & Pad
Bollinger’s latest release, the 2007 R.D. or, more specifically, the 2007 “Récemment Dégorgé” (“Recently Disgorged”), is the house's flagship wine. It is still early days for the 2007 R.D., and it is perhaps not exhibiting anything like the truffle and mushroom notes that should come in the years ahead. But Ken Gargett thinks it's already great to drink now and rates it 97/100.
Quill & Pad
For a die-hard shoe aficionado, the Berluti moniker probably resonates the same way that Franck Muller’s name does for a WIS: overpriced, under-crafted, and something that clueless wanabees might buy. But Berluti, like Franck Muller, was a game changer. As much as What Makes Me Tick wouldn’t be caught dead wearing a Franck Muller on his wrist, Berluti is for him one of the greatest shoe brands ever.
Quill & Pad
French independent watchmaker Theo Auffret has called Paris his professional home for many of the last eight years. His debut watch, the Tourbillon à Paris, is both testament to his watchmaking philosophy and a fine example of French tradition in practice.
Revolution
Breguet reincarnates the legendary double tourbillon Calibre 588 with a new timepiece that showcases all of its intricacies in plain sight.
Hodinkee
A downsized spin on the brand's out-of-this-world desk clock.
Revolution
Vacheron Constantin creates a pair of exceptional, highly complicated, and romantic wristwatches conceived by the master watchmakers of Les Cabinotiers.
Revolution
Vacheron Constantin finds musical inspiration from the heavens above.
Hodinkee
These watches give "otherworldly" a whole new meaning.
Straight from America's horological homeland.
SJX Watches
Last month IWC premiered a limited edition that has all the qualities of a hit: a bestselling classic in an exotic material, made in a very small run – and also incorporating nerdy, collector-oriented details. Instead, the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Edition Black Carbon was debuted quietly, delivered to clients, and pretty much went unnoticed around the world. The first ever Big Pilot with a carbon fibre composite case, the Big Pilot Black Carbon has a black dial with grey hands and markings, replicating the colour of the composite case. It’s livened up by red accents on the power reserve indicator and seconds hand (and also the date disc, for a small number of special watches, more on that below). The famous “fish” More unusually, the Big Pilot Black Carbon has a “fish” crown – the oversized, onion-shaped winding crown has a stylised fish logo on its top. Despite being a seemingly trivial detail, the “fish” crown is dear to IWC enthusiasts, being a memorable element from IWC’s 20th century history – one many collectors regard as a golden age. From the 1950s until the mid-2000s, most water-resistant IWC watches featured a “fish” crown. The very first generation of the Big Pilot, the ref. 5002 introduced in 2002, featured a “fish” crown. Not long after, the “fish” crown was dispensed with in favour of a crown featuring the IWC “Probus Scafusia” emblem. This happened sometime in 2006, first with a “transitional” ref. 5002 that was equi...
SJX Watches
Just before the new year, Swiss competition regulator COMCO, also known by its German acronym Weko, announced a provisional suspension of ETA’s right to sell movements to third-party brands. Once the dominant supplier of mechanical movements in Switzerland, ETA and its parent Swatch Group have been embroiled in a decades-long dispute with COMCO over the movement maker’s allegedly anticompetitive practices. Now the dispute between Switzerland’s largest watchmaking group and COMCO has taken a fresh turn with the Swatch Group filing a complaint with the Swiss federal court on January 20, demanding a repeal of COMCO’s decision to suspend sales, a move first reported by Swiss newspaper Neue Zürcher Zeitung (NZZ). An example of an ETA movement with upgraded features that ETA only supplies to sister brands; seen here inside a Hamilton According to the competition agency, the suspension of sales is meant to further weaken ETA’s market power as a major movement supplier, while allowing space for other movement suppliers to ramp up production and build their order books. The suspension remains in force until summer 2020, when COMCO will reach a final verdict on ETA’s rights and obligations. COMCO did allow a narrow exception to the ban, allowing ETA to sell its movements to small- and medium-sized watch brands that are existing clients. But the exception came a stipulation: Swatch Group has to treat all clients equally, which means selling movements to one small brand...
SJX Watches
Now four years old, Avantist was founded by Bruneian entrepreneur Keeran Janin and probably most famous for its tennis watches that incorporate string taken from the racquet used by Martina Navratilova when she won Wimbledon 1987. The brand has since diversified into other memorabilia timepieces, including one that contains strings from one of John Mayer’s guitars and another featuring threads from the national flag flown on the day of the Sultan of Brunei’s coronation. But Avantist’s most notable timepieces are the series of skeleton tourbillon watches that are entirely customisable, the La Majesté Tourbillon. These custom watches have so far been created for notable personalities, including sportsmen and heads of state; the first example – the model name translates as “His Majesty” – was conceived for the Sultan of Brunei. Powered by a hand-wound, skeleton movement from complications specialist Concepto, the La Majeste is customisable in its entirety, from the case and movement material to the design of the barrel ratchet wheel. Though the La Majeste is yet another watch in the sporty-skeleton-tourbillon genre, it manages to be a different take on a familiar look. At the same time, it combines an interesting movement with a surprisingly light and tactile feel in the hand. Thoughtfully detailed From design to production, the La Majeste Tourbillon is the work of leading names in Swiss watchmaking, most notably with Concepto supplying the movement. Best kno...
Hodinkee
The high-fashion retailer is holding a watch show you won't want to miss.
Hodinkee
We're covering a lot of ground this week.
SJX Watches
Anyone who followed Formula 1 in the 1990s to the early 2000s would remember Rubens Barrichello as effective driver. Though the Brazilian did not win any championships, he notched up 11 wins and 68 podium finishes. Like many fellow Formula 1 drivers, Mr Barrichello likes watches and was once an Audemars Piguet ambassador; the Royal Oak Offshore Rubens Barrichello II of 2006 was one of the hottest watches of the era. Unsurprisingly, Mr Barrichello is apparently a fan of the Rolex Daytona – arguably the auto racing watch – explaining his collaboration with Artisans de Genève, a Swiss outfit that specialises in customising Rolex watches. They gave his Rolex Daytona a makeover to create “La Barrichello”, a strikingly and heavily modified Cosmograph Daytona with an open-worked movement. Notably, Artisans de Genève just last year performed a similar custom job on a Daytona belonging to Juan-Pablo Montoya, another F1 driver who was active in the sport at the same time as Mr Barrichello. Both drivers’ skeletonised watches are novel in a good way; much of Artisans de Genève’s other creations are modern Daytonas modified to look like vintage “Paul Newman” Daytonas, which is arguably less interesting. Creative differences “La Barrichello” started out as the all-steel Daytona ref. 116520, which is the preceding generation of Daytona that was first introduced in 2000 before being replaced by the ref. 116500LN (distinguished by its ceramic bezel) in 2...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
While I have accumulated a nice collection of timepieces , my pursuit of watches does not stop. I still see watches I like and will buy some here and there just because I know I can utilize them in my off time with the family.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Well, at this point in a career you are beginning to think about promotion and gravitating towards the managing and leading people role, as opposed to focusing on yourself for the most part. It's a lot like having children, except without the cuddling and bedtime stories. So, why not take this time, focus on yourself for just a little bit, and be selfish about what goes on your wrist.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Bulova Lunar Pilot chronograph is a watch that has plagued my mind for such a long time, I figured it was time to get my thoughts down and share them with the community. Close to a year ago, I pulled the trigger and purchased it from a small family jeweler selling the watch well below MSRP.
Revolution
Revolution’s editors pick holiday watches for each other - in secret.
Revolution
Extraordinary moment. A watch that transmits all the achievements of Berthoud as the father of French marine chronometer in a brilliantly contemporary timepiece. Karl-Friedrich Scheufele has revived the mythology of one of horology’s most mythical names with beautiful modern eloquence. Karl-Friedrich Scheufele is better known as the head honcho of Chopard timepieces, but he has […]
Revolution
“Precision and Splendor: Clocks and Watches at the Frick Collection” is an exhibit at New York’s Frick Collection of a stunning group of priceless clocks and watches, many from the collection of Winthrop K. Edey, who bequeathed his collection of clocks and watches –which includes remarkable timepieces dating all the way back to the Renaissance […]
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