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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Tudor Scales Down the No-Frills Ranger SJX Watches
Tudor Scales Down Nov 23, 2025

Tudor Scales Down the No-Frills Ranger

One of Tudor’s most affordable models equipped with an in-house movement (the base model costs under CHF3,000), the Ranger is functional watch with a design based on the 1960s model of the same name. Originally available only with a 39 mm case and black dial, the Ranger is now also available in a 36 mm that’s truer to the vintage original. Also new is the unusual “dune white” dial. The pale dial with black markings is a subtle reference to historical sports models with similar dials often nicknamed “albino” by collectors. Initial thoughts The larger Ranger was facelifted in 2022, and though good value, it was a little chunky for the style. And the black dial was traditional, but also a bit plain. The smaller size and beige dial add a bit more vintage flair to the model, which should resonate in particular for those who appreciate such things. The tweaks to the model won’t likely make it a watch with mainstream appeal like the Black Bay, but the Ranger remains a strong proposition at its price. An explorer’s watch The vintage Ranger was Tudor’s equivalent of the Rolex Explorer, and hence shares a similar design. This style has been ported over onto the modern remake. The new “dune white” retains the same style, but with adjustments for the colour. So the hour markers are printed in black, with the luminous markers being dots on the edge of the dial instead. The rest of the watch remains unchanged, except for the size. The steel case is entirely brushed...

Hands-On With The New Circula ProSea Fratello
Nov 23, 2025

Hands-On With The New Circula ProSea

Circula, known for its collection of high-quality mechanical tool watches, recently presented its fourth diver. We put it through its paces on dry land and weren’t disappointed. Inspired by the brand’s ProTrail and ProFlight models, the ProSea combines conventional diving watch design with modern elements and techniques. Hands-on with the new Circula ProSea Automatic For […] Visit Hands-On With The New Circula ProSea to read the full article.

Introducing – The Kudoke 3 Sky Blue, a New Shade for Stefan Kudoke’s Clever Multi-Hander Monochrome
Nov 21, 2025

Introducing – The Kudoke 3 Sky Blue, a New Shade for Stefan Kudoke’s Clever Multi-Hander

Independent German watchmaker Stefan Kudoke has spent the last decade quietly building a very characterful portfolio. His HANDwerk line, led by the Kudoke 1 and Kudoke 2, established a signature design language rooted in traditional Saxon craft, with a pretty poetic twist. The Kudoke 3, launched as a graphic, playful evolution, was presented in salmon […]

Hands-On With The Spinnaker Challenger Automatic Popeye Anchor Arms Limited Edition Fratello
Audemars Piguet s much-praised Royal Oak Nov 21, 2025

Hands-On With The Spinnaker Challenger Automatic Popeye Anchor Arms Limited Edition

Over the past few years, we have seen a ton of fun watches with famous comic characters, from the return of Disney characters on several Gérald Genta watches to famous DC characters on the dial of Audemars Piguet’s much-praised Royal Oak Concept models. Of course, there are also the famous Omega Speedmaster Snoopy models. However, […] Visit Hands-On With The Spinnaker Challenger Automatic Popeye Anchor Arms Limited Edition to read the full article.

Audemars Piguet Brings Innovation To Dubai Watch Week With The Intelligent Watch Box Fratello
Audemars Piguet Brings Innovation Nov 20, 2025

Audemars Piguet Brings Innovation To Dubai Watch Week With The Intelligent Watch Box

Dubai Watch Week has built a reputation for giving brands the freedom to do more than show new watches, and Audemars Piguet has taken full advantage of that. The House of Wonders exhibition forms the core of its presence this year. It is a traveling setup that blends history, design, and the landscapes of the […] Visit Audemars Piguet Brings Innovation To Dubai Watch Week With The Intelligent Watch Box to read the full article.

Watch Hands: A Guide to the 14 Most Popular Styles Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 20, 2025

Watch Hands: A Guide to the 14 Most Popular Styles

Watch hands are more important to a timepiece's design than you might think. A watch can have the most beautiful dial in the world but it isn't really a watch unless it tells you the time. And while the wide world of watches does offer some intriguing exceptions to the classical analog style that's been established for centuries, the vast majority of timepieces still adheres to that formula: two main hands, one for the hour, one for the minute, sometimes joined by a third for the seconds, pointing to the time on a numbered ring. All watch hands do essentially the same jobs, so one might assume that little thought and creativity goes into designing and crafting such a utilitarian element of horology. One would be mistaken, however, since watchmakers over the years have created numerous hand types, each of which imparts its own distinctive character to a watch's overall aesthetic. Here is a rundown of a dozen of the most significant styles used on watches today, and a little about where each came from and how it got its name. [toc-section heading="Breguet Hands"] Designed by Abraham-Louis Breguet, founder of the eponymous luxury watch maison and inventor of numerous horological devices including the tourbillon, Breguet hands made their first appearance on a watch in 1783, Traditionally crafted in blued steel, they are recognizable for their slim shafts and “hollow moons” near the tips. An indicator of classically elegant design, and often paired with Roman numerals, or...

First Look – The Frederique Constant Highlife Chronograph Automatic Bamford Special Edition Monochrome
Frederique Constant Highlife Chronograph Automatic Bamford Nov 20, 2025

First Look – The Frederique Constant Highlife Chronograph Automatic Bamford Special Edition

Frederique Constant and Bamford Watch Department approach watch design from opposite corners of the industry, yet both operate within clear, self-defined parameters. Frederique Constant has built its reputation on accessible mechanical watchmaking, manufacturing calibres in-house and maintaining a pragmatic, function-first approach to design. Bamford, by contrast, is known for reinterpreting established forms through high-contrast palettes, […]

Fratello Talks: Watches And The Stories They Tell Fratello
Nov 20, 2025

Fratello Talks: Watches And The Stories They Tell

Watch collectors often discuss design, materials, and mechanical nuances, but the conversation frequently shifts toward something less tangible - the stories tied to these objects. Whether passed down through family, acquired during memorable moments, or simply worn through everyday life, watches tend to gather meaning in ways their manufacturers cannot always predict. On this week’s […] Visit Fratello Talks: Watches And The Stories They Tell to read the full article.

First Look – The New Schwarz Etienne 1902 GMT Monochrome
Schwarz Etienne 1902 GMT Schwarz Etienne Nov 19, 2025

First Look – The New Schwarz Etienne 1902 GMT

Schwarz Etienne is one of the rare independent manufactures that does everything under one roof: design, movement development, finishing and assembly in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Since Florian Brossard took the helm in 2024, the brand has sharpened a clear, contemporary identity built on technical depth. That work was visible earlier this year with the launch of […]

Introducing – The Updated Oris ProPilot Date Collection, Sensible and Flight-Ready Monochrome
Oris ProPilot Date Collection Sensible Nov 19, 2025

Introducing – The Updated Oris ProPilot Date Collection, Sensible and Flight-Ready

Oris is undergoing a complete overhaul of its collection, simplifying and modernising its icons. See what the brand has recently done with the Big Crown Pointer Date, the Divers Date or the Aquis Date. The new ProPilot Date is not a radical reinvention but a careful, disciplined evolution of a practical design the brand first introduced […]

Introducing – The New De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Sky Monochrome
De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Sky Nov 19, 2025

Introducing – The New De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Sky

The De Bethune DB25 line has long served as the brand’s classical counterpoint, a collection where its most traditional complications are expressed through a very distinctive design. Since the first DB25QP appeared in 2011, the perpetual calendar complication has evolved through multiple iterations. Among the recent releases were the richly coloured green model with guilloché […]

First Look – The New Bulgari Octo Finissimo Mattar Bin Lahej Limited Edition Monochrome
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Mattar Bin Nov 19, 2025

First Look – The New Bulgari Octo Finissimo Mattar Bin Lahej Limited Edition

Attaining iconic status in the world of watchmaking is no easy feat. This, however, is what Bulgari has achieved in just ten years, with the bold contemporary Italian design and sophisticated Swiss mechanics of the Octo Finissimo lineup. Its impressive lineup turned the Roman Maison into a master of ultra-thin mechanical watchmaking, as the brand has […]

First Look – The New Girard-Perregaux Laureato Three Gold Bridges, Merging Past And Present (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Three Gold Bridges Nov 19, 2025

First Look – The New Girard-Perregaux Laureato Three Gold Bridges, Merging Past And Present (Incl. Video)

After the release of what is regarded as the blueprint of the first integrated sports watch in 1972, others quickly followed, including Girard-Perregaux. Launched in 1975, the Laureato was the brand’s answer to the growing demand for a watch with an integrated design. It is one of the earliest, yet also one of the most […]

Heavyweight Revival: The Daniel Roth Tourbillon Platinum SJX Watches
Daniel Roth Nov 19, 2025

Heavyweight Revival: The Daniel Roth Tourbillon Platinum

Daniel Roth continues its thoughtful return with the Tourbillon Platinum, a contemporary take on the brand’s signature double-ellipse design. While the design remains faithful to the original, the latest version elevates every element, from the crisp pinstripe guilloche to the slightly thinner case. The first platinum model in the brand’s recent history, the watch features the same purpose-built DR001 movement we’ve seen previously, which encapsulates the blend of traditional craft and contemporary styling that defines the brand. Initial thoughts The rebirth of Daniel Roth under the aegis of La Fabrique du Temps (LFT) is something that I’ve followed with interest. With a team led by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, contemporaries and friends of Mr Roth, LFT has pulled off the rare feat of a remake that, at least in a tangible sense, exceeds the original. While the romance of a founder-led operation is impossible to fully replicate, it’s difficult to point to any single aspect of the Tourbillon Platinum that isn’t substantively improved compared to the original C187 of 1988. This speaks to the vast resources of LFT, which was able to design a form movement from the ground up to fit the brand’s supremely elegant double-ellipse case. This bespoke development cycle differs from what Mr Roth had to deal with when he became the first independent watchmaker to produce a tourbillon wristwatch in series. By starting over from scratch, LFT was able to produce a thinn...

The 20 Best Racing Watches From Affordable to Luxury Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 18, 2025

The 20 Best Racing Watches From Affordable to Luxury

High-end watches and high-performance cars have long been intertwined, and the cross section between watch aficionados and car-racing enthusiasts has always been large. So it makes sense that "racing watches" - i.e., watches built to be worn and used in the arena of motorsports, many with automobile design language built into their aesthetic DNA - have long represented a popular sub-genre in the wider luxury sport-watch universe. Here we spotlight 20 auto-racing watches from 19 brands (one brand merited two entries on the list; we think you'll agree which one), ranging in price from eminently affordable to super-luxury. We've included some acknowledged icons of the genre as well as watches from a few brands you may not have considered. Gentlemen (and ladies), start your engines... and we're off! [toc-section heading="Vaer RS1 Rally Chronograph"] Price: $249, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 11.8mm, Lug-to-Lug: 48mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 100 meters, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Seiko VK63 Mechaquartz Vaer founders Ryan Torres and Reagan Cook pooled their collective life savings to start their own watch brand because “we couldn’t afford the watches we liked and didn’t like the ones we could afford.” Based in Venice, California, Vaer released its first watches, assembled overseas, in 2017, and began manufacturing in the U.S. just one year later. The RS1 Rally Chronographs take their cues from timepieces worn by race car drivers in the 1960s and ‘70s and...

Review: the Zelos Comet 39 ‘MOP’ Worn & Wound
Nov 17, 2025

Review: the Zelos Comet 39 ‘MOP’

Singaporean independent brand Zelos is known for their colorful and texture-forward dials that strike a nice balance between affordability and unique design. Each new creation seems to drive their overall image forward in eclectic ways that keep the brand from fitting too rigidly into any one box. While Zelos is often associated with their sub $1,000 tool watches, they have made spectacular forays into the space of haute complications and uncommon materials in recent years. Their release of the Mirage in 2020, a watch that featured a tourbillon at a competitive $11,000 pricepoint, and their work using tantalum as a case material, is proof that the brand is committed to stretching the imagination regarding what a microbrand is capable of.  Their newest release, the Comet 39, joins the ranks of the recent trend of stone dials we’ve seen permeating the hobby in the past few years. Since the trend is fairly new, my experience with stone dials is limited, and I was looking forward to getting hands-on with this piece. I was lucky to be able to pick up this review watch in-person at the Windup Watch Fair in New York City a few weeks ago while I was visiting. Complementary sizing by David Lane Design at Windup allowed me to wear the watch around the city during my trip and get a sense for how it moved with me during high-volume days. The Mother of Pearl (MOP) edition is one in a series of three Comet watches in the brand’s new Comet 39 line, all of which are crafted with vari...

First Look – The new Kallinich Claeys Einser Zentralsekunde Voyager Edition Monochrome
Nov 17, 2025

First Look – The new Kallinich Claeys Einser Zentralsekunde Voyager Edition

Founded by former A. Lange & Söhne watchmakers Johannes Kallinich and Thibault Claeys, indie watchmaking atelier Kallinich Claeys has quickly become one of the most interesting names in contemporary Glashütte watchmaking. Their debut watch, the Einser Zentralsekunde, introduced a clear design approach and a thoughtfully constructed, in-house movement with central seconds and a linear power reserve […]

Hands-On With The Bell & Ross BR-03 GMT Compass - A Smartly Executed Tool Watch With A Twist Fratello
Bell & Ross BR-03 GMT Compass - Nov 15, 2025

Hands-On With The Bell & Ross BR-03 GMT Compass - A Smartly Executed Tool Watch With A Twist

Bell & Ross has always leaned into its aviation DNA, and few collections embody that identity more clearly than the BR-03 series. With its square case, four exposed screws, and cockpit-instrument aesthetic, it’s a design that’s instantly recognizable even across the room. The latest model, the BR-03 GMT Compass, keeps that familiar geometry but brings […] Visit Hands-On With The Bell & Ross BR-03 GMT Compass - A Smartly Executed Tool Watch With A Twist to read the full article.

Review: the Jacques Bianchi JB300 Profonde X Deepsea.edc Worn & Wound
Nov 14, 2025

Review: the Jacques Bianchi JB300 Profonde X Deepsea.edc

Being surprised by a dive watch is a rare occurrence at this point in the watch industry, except for a few brands trying to break the mold. The formula is relatively simple. Take a large case, add a snappy bezel, give it a legible design language, and what you end up with tends to be a staple model in your collection. What that leads to, though, is a sea of look-alike options with slightly different specs and price points, leading to enthusiast banter over slight obscurities. However, for a watch to tweak the formula with considered, bold design choices and still win me over is a rare thing. That is why, with over 140 brands and thousands of watches on display, I found myself returning to the Jacques Bianchi booth all three days of the Windup Watch Fair in New York City to handle the JB300 Profonde X Deepsea.edc collaboration dive watch. Unfortunately, if you were not among the over 11,000 attendees at this year’s Windup Watch Fair in NYC and, furthermore, did not manage to squeeze into the Jacques Bianchi booth, your chances of seeing this watch in person are now slim to none. Within hours of officially launching the JB300 Profonde X Deepsea.EDC, all 150 individually numbered units have officially been sold and will be delivered to their excited owners in January of 2026. Given that reaction, it’s hard to imagine this being the last we hear of these two. The fever behind the collaboration came as no surprise to me, in part due to the specifications, but also the stori...