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GONE IN 60 SECONDS: The biggest (bronzest) Tudor yet, meet the Black Bay Bronze Time+Tide
Tudor yet meet Aug 28, 2016

GONE IN 60 SECONDS: The biggest (bronzest) Tudor yet, meet the Black Bay Bronze

[su_vimeo url=”https://vimeo.com/159277925″] After four years of Black Bay releases we expected the collection to take a well-earned rest on the Tudor bench in 2016. Well, that didn’t happen. Not only did the entire collection get an in-house upgrade and a new blacked-out model, but it was also given a bulkier, bronzed body. Meet the big daddy of … ContinuedThe post GONE IN 60 SECONDS: The biggest (bronzest) Tudor yet, meet the Black Bay Bronze appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Automatic Attraction: Corum Debuts New Golden Bridge Automatic At BaselWorld 2013 Revolution
Corum Debuts New Golden Bridge May 13, 2013

Automatic Attraction: Corum Debuts New Golden Bridge Automatic At BaselWorld 2013

Something old, something new –that’s the theme that runs through much of watchmaking.  Lest we forget, the basic technology of watchmaking consists of a mainspring barrel, gears, a lever escapement, and a temperature compensated balance controlled by a balance spring.  All of those elements –every one –were in place by 1750, boys and girls, when […]

Hands-On: The Pattern Recognition B-Theory Series 1 Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet 20h ago

Hands-On: The Pattern Recognition B-Theory Series 1

About a year ago—or maybe two—I remember sitting in an Uber with Ben and some of the Hodinkee team as we drove down the Rue de Lausanne in Geneva, heading to Watches & Wonders. We had just grabbed a quick breakfast when Michael Friedman unexpectedly joined us. Yes, that Michael Friedman. The "AP, Michael Friedman, my friend's cooler" rap lyric guy. The guy who just so happened to have also formerly been a curator at the Willard House & Clock Museum and the National Watch & Clock Museum, Head of Watches at Christie's New York, a client advisor to people like Eric Clapton (during his pièce unique Patek years), and most recently the Head of Complications at Audemars Piguet. Okay, maybe you don't know Michael Friedman. But I knew him well and had some formative early-career experiences bumping into and getting to know him. I also knew he was working on a new brand, but had absolutely zero idea what it was. "It's wild," said Ben—or some approximation of that. "It's not so much a watch as a cuff, with a bunch of diamonds." What could that even mean? I had ideas in my head, but as they spiraled, they got further from the truth. As of a few months ago, we have the answer, and it's not what I had envisioned. The B-Theory Series 1 from Friedman's new brand Pattern Recognition is, as Ben said, far from a watch in most respects, but closer than I expected. Yes, it's jewelry. There are diamonds. And yet it's got the bona fides of technical watchmaking and connections with the pa...

The Chronoswiss Neo Digiteur Pastel Code Puts A Softer Spin On A Peculiar Watch Fratello
Chronoswiss Neo Digiteur Pastel Code Yesterday

The Chronoswiss Neo Digiteur Pastel Code Puts A Softer Spin On A Peculiar Watch

The way we tell time matters, and not just because we want to miss the train. The way we read time is also an experience. Digital time is just a series of numbers, while an analog timekeeper sweeps through time, showing you where it has been and where it is going. Call me a hopeless […] Visit The Chronoswiss Neo Digiteur Pastel Code Puts A Softer Spin On A Peculiar Watch to read the full article.

Oris Extends Its Muppets Line with the Most Audacious Version Yet Worn & Wound
Oris Extends 3 days ago

Oris Extends Its Muppets Line with the Most Audacious Version Yet

Like many generations of kids past and present, I grew up on the Muppets, and well, quite frankly, I’ve never outgrown them. They are one of those rare and fantastic so-called kids’ universes that really transcend age and time. However, when Oris first partnered with the franchise in 2023, I was skeptical. Cartoons, superheroes, Muppets – there are plenty I love, and, of course, I also love watches. I’m just not sure I love the two together. Now, I’m fairly certain I’m in the minority. The Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition seems to be an enduring fan favorite, later followed up by the ProPilot X “Miss Piggy.” The designs are by all accounts very simple and subtle, with Kermit’s face casually appearing in the date window and Miss Piggy only featured on the caseback. Still, something about them always felt a bit kitschy to me. About a month ago, a teaser came through my inbox announcing a forthcoming Muppet model, and I slotted the information away. Like many of us can tend to do once we’ve been deeply ingrained enough in the watch world, I filed the announcement under the category, “this is not for me.” Let this serve as a good reminder to remain open and willing to change your preferences – to be surprised. When I finally got the full press release for the new ProPilot X Gonzo Edition, I started rethinking my position on these types of collaborations altogether. The creativity and attention to detail really blew me away. A lot of brands talk about ma...

First Look - The Bold Bulgari Octo Finissimo Dazzle Monochrome
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Dazzle Sep 3, 2026

First Look - The Bold Bulgari Octo Finissimo Dazzle

The Octo Finissimo may be better known as Bulgari’s record-breaking platform for ultra-thin watchmaking. However, over the years, the collection has also welcomed artistic experimentation, with special editions such as the “sketch dials” and collaborations with artists and architects Lee Ufan, Mattar Bin Lahej, Kazuyo Sejima and Tadao Ando. This year, Bulgari continues its creative […]

Introducing: Gallet Multichron Pilot Hodinkee
Breitling House Sep 3, 2026

Introducing: Gallet Multichron Pilot

What We Know Today, amongst a slate of other launches and re-releases, Gallet — now a part of the Breitling "House of Brands" — lifted the curtain on the Gallet Multichron Pilot. The new watch takes the recipe of the original 1969 Multichron Pilot and updates it, and the result is a watch that is recognizable but also, arguably, the most contemporary model in the very fresh Gallet lineup. The new watch does borrow heavily from its namesake, and seeing the two watches next to each other highlights the similarities. The new Multichron Pilot is still a tri-compax chronograph, with a bi-directional twelve-hour bezel, pump pushers, stick hands, and cut-off arrow-shaped markers. By way of comparison, a vintage Gallet Multichron Pilot. Image, courtesy Analog Shift. But there are definite differences too, many of which are concessions to modern taste. For one thing, those cut-off arrow-shaped indices are now lumed instead of polished, but there's also a date — visible through an aperture at 6 o'clock — and while the telemeter remains on the new watch, the tachymeter (which appeared as a second scale on vintage examples) is omitted. The watch is also bigger than vintage Multichrons.  The new watch has been upsized from 38 to 42mm, is 11.3mm thick, and measures 45.59mm lug-to-lug. At that size, the new Multichron Pilot is the largest watch in the new Gallet catalog but is still quite reasonable and a far cry from some of the oversized watches that still seem to populate Bre...

Introducing: Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport Hodinkee
Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport What Sep 2, 2026

Introducing: Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport

What We Know Now in its sixth decade as one of the most famous movements in the industry, the El Primero remains at the heart of Zenith's offerings. To kick off Geneva Watch Days, Zenith is doing something slightly different, launching a Chronomaster Sport without a chronograph—the Chronomaster Solo Sport. The watch arrives in four variations: three with ceramic dials and bezels in black, white, and brown, plus a no-date option also in black. All four come in a 40mm stainless steel case with a ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel. The dial features hours, minutes, and seconds, with date added on three of the four references. Despite losing the chronograph, there's still a lot going on up top. The words "36,000 VpH" and "high frequency" alone take up two lines of the dial, and the subtle "shark tooth" minute track gives a nod to vintage Zenith references.  The dial itself is ceramic, built around a repeated 45° Z motif meant to evoke the rhythm and vibration of the movement underneath—rendered as a sunray finish on the white version and a polished surface on the black and brown versions. That same pattern carries over to the counterweight on the seconds hand. The El Primero 3620 powers the watch, derived from the El Primero 3600 chronograph movement and operating at 5 Hz, or 36,000 VpH, while retaining the star-shaped rotor. It's equipped with a silicon escapement and a stop-second mechanism for precise time-setting, and it offers a 60-hour power reserve. Also featur...

Introducing: TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph Carbon Limited Edition Hodinkee
TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph Carbon Sep 1, 2026

Introducing: TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph Carbon Limited Edition

What We Know This weekend, Formula 1 returns to Ferrari's home track (for the series, at least) of Monza, and with that return, TAG Heuer is releasing a new version of the eponymous Monza Flyback Chronograph. The watch was originally released in 1976 to celebrate Ferrari's return to the top with the constructors' and drivers' Formula 1 championships, with its black-coated case setting the stage not only for the model's future but also for similar releases from Heuer (and later TAG Heuer). A Monza isn't a Monza unless it's black, so this new release fits the remit perfectly: a 42mm by 15.22mm case in forged carbon, with red accents on the dial. Often known as the Niki Lauda (after the driver who won the title in 1976), the original watch featured a lot of red (and was reissued over a decade ago), though the dial layout has changed significantly from the original. This time, that red has been swapped around, with accents on the minute-counting and chronograph hands, the combination pulsometer and tachymeter flange scale, and the flyback mark at 6 o'clock. The date is still included, moved to 9 o'clock (which in turn puts running seconds at 6 o'clock), but with an angled window. The indices are all printed, and the hands and hour markers use white Super-LumiNova. The watch is powered by the COSC-certified Caliber TH20-12 automatic movement, running at 4Hz. TAG Heuer didn't provide specifications here, but past versions of the Monza with this movement had an 80-hour power rese...

Introducing - The New Piaget Polo Minute Repeater Monochrome
Piaget Polo Minute Repeater Piaget Aug 31, 2026

Introducing - The New Piaget Polo Minute Repeater

Piaget has long built its watchmaking reputation on a combination of ultra-thin movements and decorative techniques. Founded in 1874 by Georges-Édouard Piaget in La Côte-aux-Fées, the Maison developed its expertise in high-precision movements before making ultra-thin mechanical calibres one of its defining specialities. This expertise has also extended to major complications, including the tourbillon, chronograph, […]

These are 9 Under the Radar Enamel Dials You Should Know Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin Jaquet Droz Aug 27, 2026

These are 9 Under the Radar Enamel Dials You Should Know

Probably one of the proudest informal titles I’ve garnered in my nearly 15-year career in the watch industry is “the resident enamel girl.” As a refresher, I fell in love with the artform in a hands-on workshop during a press trip several years ago and have gone on to complete three different apprenticeships in Switzerland studying the craft. I have an immense appreciation not only for the beauty of enamel dials but also the meticulous creative process behind them. Enamel dials were long held in esteem as one of the elements of watchmaking reserved for the elite, much like high complications. It’s no small feat to bring a well-executed enamel dial to life. The materials, tools, machines, and the expert level of training for the craftspeople were once gripped tightly by top brands like Patek Philippe, Breguet, Vacheron Constantin, Jaquet Droz, and Van Cleef & Arpels. Let me be clear – in practice, brand clout ultimately does not correlate to the best enamel dials. There’s a particular maison not named here (and who I will not call out by name) but who is one of the biggest names in the industry, with every resource at their disposal, and one of their recent and highly popular enamel dials is unbearably mediocre if you give it a look under a loupe. Thankfully, the collector community is starting to come around to this notion that enamel from independent brands can be equally good if not better than the old guard. If you need further proof, here are nine under the...

First Look - The Updated Longines Master Chronograph Moonphase (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Longines Master Chronograph Moonphase Incl Aug 25, 2026

First Look - The Updated Longines Master Chronograph Moonphase (Incl. Video)

As the most complex expression of Longines’ watchmaking capabilities, the Master Chronograph Moonphase can be considered not only the collection’s flagship, but also one of the brand’s poster boys. Ever since its introduction in 2005, it has been part of the Master line-up, pairing some of the most classical and well-loved indications into a single, […]

Wren Introduces the Diver One Abyss Worn & Wound
Wren Aug 24, 2026

Wren Introduces the Diver One Abyss

Are you afraid of the dark? No, really—it’s one of the most common phobias and for good reason. The dark represents the unknown, the impossible, and the very idea of danger. And while that uncertainty often leads to an understandable (and innately biological) fear reaction, it also makes the dark exciting beyond measure. Why else would we send divers down to the crushingly dark abyss of the deep ocean? New York City-based microbrand Wren has taken that question head on, and turned it into a dive piece that embodies the environment it’s inspired by: The Wren Diver One Abyss. The single most striking thing about the Abyss is, of course, its namesake. The dial is black, with a black bezel, but it’s not a “normal” black; instead, Wren has made use of the Koyo Orient Japan-derived Musou Black water-based acrylic paint that absorbs 99.4% of visible light. Unlike other such “superblack” paints, like the infamous Vantablack, Musou Black is commercially available, and while it’s not quite as dark as the former, it bears a lot of similarities in composition. Koyo keeps the full breakdown close to their proverbial chest, but basically, what makes it “darker than dark” is its ability to bounce light back out, giving the human eye nothing to latch onto. This makes the color read as bottomless, giving it a strange, disconcerting “depth”, which Wren furthers by using a sandwich construction method for the markings and indexes (additionally coated with Super-Lumi...

Introducing - The Tissot PRX 40mm Powermatic 80, now with Mother-of-Pearl Dial Monochrome
Tissot PRX 40mm Powermatic 80 Aug 20, 2026

Introducing - The Tissot PRX 40mm Powermatic 80, now with Mother-of-Pearl Dial

To say that the PRX collection by Tissot is wide would be a genuine understatement… The range is vast, comprising classic automatic versions, quartz models, several sizes (40mm, 38mm, 35mm and even 25mm recently), standard steel editions, but also unexpected materials (titanium, damascuss steel, carbon) and all the colours you can imagine. And here, I’m […]

Longines Adds a Light Blue Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve Worn & Wound
Longines Adds Aug 19, 2026

Longines Adds a Light Blue Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve

Don’t look now, but Longines is having an uncommonly strong year. The release of the reworked HydroConquest dive watch in March remains one of the most discussed new releases of the year from a major brand, and their quiet but smart update of the Master Collection in June was also well received. Last month, they launched a new version of one of the more curious watches to be plucked from their archives in recent years, and while it’s certainly more of a niche product than the diver or the classically styled pieces in the Master Collection, it shows that the brand is still considering the enthusiast in spite of what is clearly a larger, big tent approach focusing on core models.  The Longines Conquest Central Power Reserve in light blue is the third such watch following cream, anthracite and black dials introduced in 2024. These are incredibly charming watches in person, and lift from a design that originally debuted in 1959. It’s a fairly straightforward watch, with the central quirk (literally) being a power reserve indicator represented by a subdial in the dead center of the dial. The date appears at 12:00, and studying the dial reveals an idiosyncratic sector-like layout that is easily readable and visually interesting.  The case of the Longines Conquest Central Power Reserve measures a tidy 38mm in diameter and 12.3mm thick. That is a tad taller than I’d typically like on a watch in this style, but I think it’s the price we pay for a modern, tech forward mo...

SJX Podcast: Big Brands to Beat SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Aug 17, 2026

SJX Podcast: Big Brands to Beat

Episode 50 of the SJX Podcast rounds up recent reviews, including a review of a new book about Universal Genève chronographs, and the latest updates to long-running platforms from Breguet and Patek Philippe. The discussion also explores the intensifying competitive landscape in high-end watchmaking as big brands like Patek Philippe, Breguet, and A. Lange & Söhne close the gap with many artisanal independent brands. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Reaching The Top With The Heavyweight HP Hercules In Polished Tantalum Fratello
Aug 15, 2026

Reaching The Top With The Heavyweight HP Hercules In Polished Tantalum

Last year, Thomas went hands-on with the HP Hercules Hand-Wound Double-Barreled. Today, I’m going to do exactly the same. However, this time the watch doesn’t feature a stainless-steel case but rather a fully polished tantalum one. As you might know, tantalum is an extremely dense metal, which makes the watch much heavier and also harder […] Visit Reaching The Top With The Heavyweight HP Hercules In Polished Tantalum to read the full article.

Seiko Doesn’t Rest On Its Laurels: Introducing Two Seiko Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” Watches Fratello
Seiko Doesn’t Rest Aug 13, 2026

Seiko Doesn’t Rest On Its Laurels: Introducing Two Seiko Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” Watches

Seiko’s and Japan’s very first wristwatch, the 1913 Laurel, is one of the prettiest watches I have ever seen. More than a century after its conception, it still looks fresh. It’s also, as you can imagine, a rather important watch. To underline that and make it possible to wear a watch that honors the beginning […] Visit Seiko Doesn’t Rest On Its Laurels: Introducing Two Seiko Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” Watches to read the full article.

Fears Retires the Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour with the ‘Ultimus’ Edition: an Appreciation of a Modern Classic Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward JJ01 jumping hour module Aug 11, 2026

Fears Retires the Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour with the ‘Ultimus’ Edition: an Appreciation of a Modern Classic

Fears made some news this week not only with a new release, but also the announcement that one of their signature watches is being retired. The new Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour ‘Ultimus’ is, somewhat surprisingly, the last version of the Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour. Now, it stands to reason that Fears will not completely abandon the Jump Hour format. This platform has been incredibly popular for the brand, and seems to be a fount of creative opportunity for their design team and collaborators. Still, the appropriately named Ultimus is the end of a chapter, and it seems like a good opportunity to reflect on a watch that I’ve personally come to enjoy quite a bit in my own collection.  But first, let’s break down the Ultimus. This is a collaboration with Andew Morgan, the UK based watch content creator, and features the same 40.5mm stainless steel case and Christopher Ward JJ01 jumping hour module (on a Sellita SW200 base movement) as every other Jump Hour Fears has made (well, almost every one – we’ll get to a few exceptions momentarily). What differentiates this edition, of course, is the dial execution. Typically, the Jump Hour is loaded with negative space. The Fears version of this complication features a small interior minutes track with an hour aperture at the top, and ample space within and without that circle that becomes a venue for an eye-catching color or an interesting material. It’s an inherently spare design, which I think is part of the appeal.  The U...

Hands-On: The Watch Ho & Co. x Selten Yum Cha Edition Hodinkee
Aug 11, 2026

Hands-On: The Watch Ho & Co. x Selten Yum Cha Edition

Today marks the third collaboration between Watch Ho & Co. and Hong Kong-based microbrand Selten. I don't believe we've covered any of Selten's past watches, but last October the brand appeared on my radar after I spent a good bit of time at their booth looking at their watches during theWindUp Watch Fair New York. It's also when I met Jackie Ho, the founder of the Hong Kong watch-enthusiast-and-collector community Watch Ho & Co. Before today, there were two Watch Ho & Co. collaborations with Selten, the Jui and Jui Bauhinia, both under $1,300 and centered around a distinctive "Mountain" pattern CNC-machined onto mother-of-pearl dials. The Bauhinia edition expanded on the design of the first by offering two iridescent dial options, in either pink or purple, and I'm willing to bet that if you float around watch communities on Instagram, you've definitely seen at least a few wrist shots from collectors online. I have a few friends with these watches, and they look really fantastic in person. To celebrate the third anniversary of the enthusiast group, Jackie Ho takes the third collaboration, named Yum Cha (the Cantonese word for dim sum), in a completely different creative direction. On paper, this new watch goes much more upscale with handcrafted decoration instead of CNC machining to achieve a hand-engraved motif on the dial, with grand feu enameling on top. But while the previous editions attribute the dial motif to ancient Chinese armor, the inspiration for the Yum Cha ed...

The Modest Moonwatch Alternative: Omega’s Speedmaster Reduced Fratello
Omega s Speedmaster Reduced Many Aug 11, 2026

The Modest Moonwatch Alternative: Omega’s Speedmaster Reduced

Many of you will know that, from 1988 to 2010, Omega offered a smaller alternative to its Moonwatch known as the Speedmaster Reduced (reference 3510.50.00). There was also a series of smaller Speedmaster models that looked similar to the Reduced and offered a date or calendar, but only one used the original Moonwatch as a […] Visit The Modest Moonwatch Alternative: Omega’s Speedmaster Reduced to read the full article.

Interview: A Glimpse Into The World Of Konstantin Chaykin Fratello
Konstantin Chaykin Konstantin Chaykin Aug 11, 2026

Interview: A Glimpse Into The World Of Konstantin Chaykin

Konstantin Chaykin is a self-described watchmaker, inventor, and artist. In this interview (casually combating the English-Russian language barrier), Chaykin takes us on his journey from a maker of complex clocks to a master of ultra-thin watchmaking. He also shares insights into the world of independent watchmaking, Russia’s horological history, and how he injects a dash […] Visit Interview: A Glimpse Into The World Of Konstantin Chaykin to read the full article.

Rocking A New Look: The Maen Manhattan Stone Dial Series Fratello
Maen Manhattan Stone Dial Series Aug 11, 2026

Rocking A New Look: The Maen Manhattan Stone Dial Series

There’s nothing wrong with a good stone dial. Even though they’ve been a thing for the past 2-3 years, I never get bored with seeing one. Granted, I do need to like the watch it’s in, and it also needs to fit the style. With the Maen Manhattan, the former is definitely not an issue. […] Visit Rocking A New Look: The Maen Manhattan Stone Dial Series to read the full article.

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5227G-015 “Rose Gilt” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref 5227G-015 “Rose Aug 11, 2026

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5227G-015 “Rose Gilt”

Patek Philippe’s headline launches this year included the surprising Celestial ref. 6105G and Nautilus 50th anniversary editions, but also more classical, yet under-the-radar, watches, like the Calatrava ref. 5227G-015 with a “rose-gilt” dial and hinged case back. Though the Calatrava ref. 5227 with its distinctive “officer’s case” has been in the catalogue for well over a decade, the latest iteration is the best yet. The combination is somewhat formulaic – “salmon” dial and white gold case – but it is good looking and evocative of old-school Patek Philippe dress watches. At the same time, this new variant of the ref. 5227 contains a latest-generation automatic movement. Initial thoughts Ironically two of the standout launches by Patek Philippe during Watches & Wonders were fairly basic, essentially facelifts of references that have been in the catalogue for decades. One was the ref. 5396R-016 Annual Calendar, and the other is this, the Calatrava ref. 5227G-015. Though both are entirely different in function and price, they are similar in style. The designs are both restrained and evocative of vintage Patek Philippe watches; both also have dials in popular shades. “Salmon” is definitely overdone as a dial colour, but it doesn’t stop this Calatrava from being really appealing. The ref. 5227 is typical Patek Philippe in form. Even though it’s at the larger end of the range for Calatrava models, it still feels elegant. The case is thin and sits fla...

The Best Entry-Level Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Is The Downsized Tribute Duoface Small Seconds Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Aug 10, 2026

The Best Entry-Level Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Is The Downsized Tribute Duoface Small Seconds

If I asked you to draft a list of iconic dress watches, it probably wouldn’t take you long to come up with some answers. And it would not be unreasonable to assume that the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso would be on that list. And it would not be strange to assume that it would also be one […] Visit The Best Entry-Level Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Is The Downsized Tribute Duoface Small Seconds to read the full article.

SJX Podcast: Independent Watchmaking Retrospective SJX Watches
Franck Muller Aug 10, 2026

SJX Podcast: Independent Watchmaking Retrospective

Ahead of Geneva Watch Days — which will feature 71 brands, many of them independent — episode 49 of the SJX Podcast looks back at how independent watchmaking became the phenomenon it is today. SJX and Brandon trace its evolution from 1970s pioneers like George Daniels and François-Paul Journe through the arrival of Daniel Roth, Philippe Dufour, and Franck Muller. The conversation also examines the avant-garde boom of the 2000s, the renewed emphasis on traditional finishing, and the role of digital photography and social media in transforming a solitary pursuit into a global collecting community. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.