Yet it Turns: Iconic 1930s Watches which survived the Great Depression
The 30s was a period of great economic turmoil yet for the watch industry, it was a pivotal turning point. Here are the most iconic 1930s watches of the era
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The 30s was a period of great economic turmoil yet for the watch industry, it was a pivotal turning point. Here are the most iconic 1930s watches of the era
Deployant
christmas gift picks for horologist watch collectors
Fratello
When we published the first part of this exploration into 1,000m-rated dive watches, the response was immediate and enthusiastic. That didn’t surprise me. Watches capable of surviving a kilometer beneath the surface occupy a fascinating niche. They go well beyond everyday practicality and venture into the realm of over-engineering, professional utility, and, often, obsession. These […] Visit Which 1,000m-Rated Dive Watch Is Right For You? - Part II to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Daniel Roth announced a subtle shift in its direction with the recent Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton. While the brand’s prior models like the tourbillon were essentially remakes of models made by the brand in the 1990s, the Extra Plat skeleton is an entirely new model that shares practically nothing with historical designs save for the case shape. Because the Extra Plat skeleton is, well, skeleton, it ably shows off the quality of execution on both sides. Beyond finishing, the movement also stands out for details that illustrate the taste of its constructor(s). It’s telling that the movement could have been done more simply without anyone noticing, but it wasn’t. Initial thoughts Daniel Roth’s resurrection got off to a strong start, underpinned by watches with top quality execution. The initial models, however, were remakes of 1990s originals. A brand with Daniel Roth’s ambitions (and well-resourced backer) won’t go very far with only replicas of historical models. The Extra Plat Skeleton illustrates the people behind the brand understand that. The Extra Plat Skeleton, in contrast, is the first all-new model rolled out by Daniel Roth in its current form. It encapsulates all of the strengths of the brand, namely the capable, high-end watchmaking of La Fabrique du Temps (LFT) and the distinctive double-ellipse case. While the Extra Plat Skeleton is powered by a movement derived from that in the Extra Plat, it is clearly a different calibre. And because the movemen...
Monochrome
Since founding Sarpaneva Watches in Helsinki, the independent Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva has consistently explored an approach shaped by the Nordic visual universe, mechanical honesty and a powerful sense of narrative. Best known for his Korona case design and expressive moon displays, Sarpaneva has built a recognisable catalogue which offers a combination of traditional watchmaking […]
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Fratello
When you talk about dive watches rated for the sort of depths only a handful of human divers - let alone cameras, regulators, or submersibles - will ever see, you cross the border from sporting gear into mechanical heroics. Dive watches are built to match these endeavors. In this article, I’ll explore five extraordinary timepieces […] Visit Which 1,000m-Rated Dive Watch Is Right For You? to read the full article.
Fratello
We’re closing in on a new year and rounding off 2025. RJ will shine his light on the past year in an article tomorrow. However, I thought it would be nice to take a look at which posts became the most popular of the year on our Fratello Instagram account. Besides, while writing this article, […] Visit Fratello Instagram Favorites 2025: Which Watches Received The Most Likes, Comments, And Views? to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Zach gets hands-on with the Submersible QuarantaQuattro PAM01595 and PAM01596 in steel and the PAM01232 in Carbotech.The post Which of these Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro pieces would you pick? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
I don’t think it's any secret that, statistically speaking, our audience leans more towards men. But if you couldn’t already tell by a quick glance at my author photo, I am, in fact, a girl. Thus, today’s article is in part inspired by a desire to add a bit more of a feminine touch to the content we typically do, and in part to answer to a growing number of questions (such as "which wrist do ladies wear watches on?") the team and I have been getting relating to first steps towards starting a watch collection from the girls out there – either asked by the ladies themselves, or from partners and family members trying to induct their loved ones into the cult of watches. Below, I’ll break down some common questions aimed at those just dipping their toes into the watch-collecting hobby, and share some personal musings and philosophies I approach when building a collection, as a young(ish), scrappy girl in the industry myself. I’ve also had some of the lovely ladies from the Teddy team share wristshots from their own collection for added color, flavor, and fun! So, where do I start? Beginnings are exciting, but they can also come with some unexpected terror as you come face-to-face with the unknown. As with any new hobby or learning something new, the initial confrontation with all the information is bound to be somewhat (or very) overwhelming. Personally, when I first began dipping my toes into watches, I experienced something akin to vertigo, teetering on the e...
Time+Tide
The Anglo-Swiss brand's two high horology heavy hitters go head to head.The post The C1 Bel Canto versus the C12 Loco – which Christopher Ward are you? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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SJX Watches
The recently resurrected Daniel Roth brand has added a second regular production model to its catalogue, the Extra Plat Rose Gold. It’s powered by the same DR002 movement found in the Extra Plat Souscription, a 20-piece limited edition in yellow gold with a solid case back, now with a sapphire case back to show off the handsome, shaped calibre inside. Image – Daniel Roth Initial Thoughts It’s no secret that Louis Vuitton has been making inroads into independent watchmaking, through collaborations with leading independents and the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize. Louis Vuitton has taken a more direct approach by reviving one of the first modern independents, and it seems to have paid off. Ironically, despite being the product of a luxury giant, the Daniel Roth Extra Plat is comparable to many offerings from niche makers, which can be seen as praise of the former or reproval of the latter. Image – Daniel Roth In another contradiction, the Extra Plat’s 7.7 mm height isn’t exactly extra-flat by the standards of a two-hand, manually wound dress watch. For comparison, the original Extra Plat Automatic from 1990 was 6.7 mm thick, and the manual version was only 6 mm. This can be attributed to the new movement, which is thicker than those in historical Extra Plat models, but constructed and finished to a much higher standard, while also being an in-house calibre (the originals were powered by Frederic Piguet). Image – Daniel Roth The new regular production has more mainst...
Monochrome
The announcement two years ago of the comeback of Daniel Roth under Louis Vuitton’s direction gave us great hopes. Luckily, we didn’t have to wait long to see the first result of this anticipated return, which started with a yellow gold Tourbillon Souscription, a faithful tribute to the late-1980s reference C187 Tourbillon watch by Mr […]
Time+Tide
More than just a case metal switch-up, the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold is a paradigm shift for the storied Roth name.The post Exciting news: Daniel Roth’s new Extra Plat isn’t a limited edition and now has an exhibition caseback appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Sometimes we just want something a little unusual in the collection-something we can look down at and know is an entirely unusual or funky design. Today, we’re looking at a few vintage and modern options for funky watches. However, I’d ask readers to provide their suggestions in the comments! We saw at Watches and Wonders […] Visit Five Fun And Funky Watches From Tudor, IWC, Longines, And More - Which Would Be Your Pick? to read the full article.
Fratello
I feel a strong sense of nostalgia for the old flipping scoreboards I remember from my childhood. That’s probably why I adore digital jump-hour watches and quartz flip clocks so much. When I first saw the Plato Clock, patented in 1903, I froze in amazement. I believe I’m pretty strong when it comes to controlling […] Visit Retrospective: True Joy With A 100-Plus-Year-Old Plato Flip Clock to read the full article.
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Teddy Baldassarre
Back in 2023, LVMH and its high watchmaking workshop La Fabrique du Temps revived the Daniel Roth brand, which had been owned by Bulgari since 2000. Roth was a towering name in independent watchmaking, having been a peer of Philippe Dufour and Francois-Paul Journe. Though the brand only lasted from 1988 to 1995, its resurrection in 2023 was only made more glorious due to the long gap. The resurrected brand debuted with the Tourbillon Souscription, which has been followed up with the new Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription, a faithful remake of the original from the 1990s that was released at LVMH Watch Week 2025. The “Neo-vintage” craze has only gotten more popular in recent years, with the generation of watches sandwiched between vintage and modern gaining the respect and appreciation of collectors and newcomers alike. The Chopard L.U.C 1860 reissue from 2023 was one of the most celebrated neo-vintage reissues in recent years and I’d venture to say that this Roth will join the ranks. Staying true to the original aesthetics — with contemporary concessions for things like movement development — is a recipe for success in these small-batch, high-visibility watches. Small production numbers for relative rarity are helping to keep neo-vintage from becoming overexposed, but for how long? We’ll have to wait and see on that end, but for now let’s get back to the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription. The simple, two-hand dress watch comes in that recognizable double-e...
Time+Tide
Following the design cues of the original, the new Extra Plat sports a new movement.The post The second La Fabrique du Temps Daniel Roth is the simple, stunning Extra Plat Souscription appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Continuing with its revival, Daniel Roth debuts its second modern-day timepiece, the Extra Plat Souscription. Hewing to the formula established by the Tourbillon Souscription, the Extra Plat Souscription stays faithful to the 1990s original in size and style, but is equipped with an all-new calibre developed from the ground up. Like the Tourbillon Souscription, the Extra Plat Souscription debuts as a 20-piece limited edition in 18k yellow gold, matched with a guilloche dial in solid 18k yellow gold. Initial thoughts As with the Tourbillon before it, the Extra Plat Souscription looks and feels like the original at a distance, but reveals a higher degree of refinement up close. This is especially evident on the dial that is covered in finely grained guilloche, done with a hand-operated straight-line engine. In fact, the Extra Plat is arguably more sophisticated than the equivalent original, more so than the Tourbillon. The 1990s-era model was fitted with Frederic Piguet movements, either manual-wind or automatic depending on the variant, which were fine calibres but relatively industrial and widely used by higher-end brands like Blancpain. The DR002 in the new Extra Plat, on the other hand, is a new construction with the refinements expected in a watch of this calibre (and price). It’s shame that the movement is concealed behind a solid back, but that will become an open back with the subsequent, regular-production version. While the new Extra Plat is a beautiful homage th...
Time+Tide
We take a look at two variants of one of Ulysse Nardin's most visually engaging watches.The post Blue and rose gold or black DLC titanium: which Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon do you prefer? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
To Jubilee or not to Jubilee? We debate whether the Rolex GMT-Master II looks better on a Jubilee or Oyster bracelet.The post Oyster vs Jubilee: Which bracelet does the Rolex GMT-Master II look better on? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Quill & Pad
While the red carpet GPHG prize giving ceremony isn’t until the 13th of November 2024, GPHG Academy members have until the 26 of April to submit suggestions for watches for consideration. Ian Skellern is interested to hear your thoughts on which watches warrant contention and what you think about the new category changes.
Time+Tide
What's a hesalite crystal? Is Hardlex better than sapphire? And what's mineral glass? Buffy answers it all.The post Which crystal is best for you? The difference between sapphire, acrylic, and mineral glass appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Some watches far exceed the expectations set by their price tags.The post Which watches punch above their weight class? Here’s what you had to say appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Which Rolex models will be most sought after by collectors in the future? That’s not a trick question. And Watchbox’s director of media Tim Mosso and global head of trading Mike Manjos are here to answer it for you in the second episode of Watchbox’s new video series “Around the Crown,” which is dedicated to future classics from the Rolex catalog.
Worn & Wound
The US Open, the professional tennis season’s final major tournament, is currently in its closing stages, which means you’re running out of time to purchase the watch seen here, the Rallymaster II by Maurice de Mauriac, made in partnership with Racquet magazine. This is a sequel to the original Rallymaster, released last year in conjunction with the French Open in a run of just 40 pieces. The quick sell out of that watch prompted the team behind it to make the next one a little more available, with a strategy this time of limited production: anyone who’d like to can order the watch, but only during the dates of the US Open. The tournament began on August 28, and the last match will be played on September 10 (this coming Sunday), at which point tennis fans will have to wait for what we imagine will be a Wimbledon or Australian Open themed watch, but that’s speculation for another day. The Rallymaster II takes the whimsical, colorful formula of the first watch and spins it just slightly to accommodate a color palette that makes a little more sense for the marquee event in US tennis. The US Open, year after year, is a spectacle, drawing viewers both in-person and on television that might be only casual tennis fans, but can’t help but get caught up in the tournament’s inherent drama. A combination of the boisterous New York crowds, matches that stretch late into the evening, and competitors playing in top late season form always make for an exciting two weeks. ...
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