Hodinkee
Introducing: The Tudor Royal Collection
A sporty steel watch with integrated bracelet, headlined by a killer day and date version.
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Hodinkee
Deployant
H. Moser Streamliner Center Seconds – live pics and hands-on review
The Moser Streamliner Center Seconds was announced in August 26, 2020 as the second model in Moser’s entry into the bewildering world of the stainless steel luxury sports watch with integrated bracelet. We get up close and hands-on with the new watch, and give you our thoughts. H. Moser Streamliner Center Seconds Release information. H.Read More
Revolution
Introducing the Ralph Lauren Polo Watch Collection
“I called it Polo because it had a sensibility that was sporty and international. It was sophisticated and stylish. Polo had an imagery that represented a lifestyle, and style is forever.” – Ralph Lauren
Quill & Pad
Sarpaneva x Moomin: Stepan Sarpaneva Celebrates 75 Years Of Moomin With This Scandinavian Fantasy For The Wrist
The Moomin universe was created by the late Swedish-speaking Finn Tove Jansson. It comprises a microcosm of Jansson’s fairytale version of Scandinavia thrown in a blender with Roald Dahl and a sprinkling of J.R.R. Tolkien. And that’s all present in the Sarpaneva x Moomin watch honoring the 75th anniversary of Jansson’s highly successful book, 'The Moomins and the Great Flood.' This watch has a secret, though. Find it here!
Quill & Pad
Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer*: A Superlative Watch But Is It Really A Chronometer?
According to Joshua Munchow, the Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer is one of the most astounding pieces to be released in 2020, and when he first saw it on social media he actually gasped out loud. The more that he looked at it the more he fell in love with the style, the engineering, and the concept behind the movement. But he must ask: is it really a chronometer?
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: How Hermès got away from LVMH – and thrived
Editor’s note: How did Hermès not only survive, but manage to thrive after resisting a takeover bid from LVMH? This story tells the tale. And leaves out what might be the best bit for us, as watch lovers. Which is Hermès’ ongoing ascendancy in watchmaking. Who could forget the extraordinary Arceau L’heure de la lune … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: How Hermès got away from LVMH – and thrived appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Petermann Bédat Seconde Morte: Dead Seconds, Independently (Video)
Petermann Bédat is a young company comprising a youthful duo of independent watchmakers by the names of Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat. Their first watch features a deadbeat style of seconds created with the help of grand master Dominique Renaud. Our friends at The Watches TV hosted Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat in their Geneva studio to find out more. Watch their talk here!
SJX Watches
Hamilton Introduces the Khaki Aviation Converter
Once an American watchmaker that was a global giant, Hamilton is today a Swiss brand best known for its value-proposition, vintage-inspired watches – and providing watches for several Hollywood films. Its speciality is exemplified by watches like the Khaki Field Mechanical, a robust, military-style watch that costs less than US$500. Hamilton has just unveiled a new collection of affordable pilot’s watches, the Khaki Aviation Converter. The line up is made up of three watches – time and date, GMT, and chronograph – all equipped with a slide-rule bezel for cockpit calculations and conversions. From left: the base model automatic, the GMT, and the chronograph in two variants Initial thoughts As with the most of the watches in the Khaki collection, the Converter is appealing in design and no doubt solidly, if simply, constructed. While it might not be the most original in design – the slide-rule bezel is synonymous with Breitling’s Navitimer but used by many brands – the Converter is strong value. Starting at US$995 for the automatic and rising to US$2,145 for chronograph, the collection is a good entry into watches featuring a slide-rule bezel. The bezel features double-row knurling for good grip The generic design aside, it is heartening to see that attention has been paid to the details. With the large, luminous hands and contrasting colours, legibility appears good. The movements are visible through the case back, something that can be captivating for a beg...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Tudor Royal Day-Date
Unveiled quietly in July and destined only for a handful of Asian markets to start with – and then worldwide from November 2020 – the Tudor Royal is a lightly retro wristwatch with an integrated bracelet, almost a luxury-sports watch, but for decidedly entry-level money. Like many of Tudor’s more affordable watches, the Royal Day-Date is powered by a Sellita movement, as opposed to the in-house movements found in the upper-end models. But the Royal still boasts the brand’s typically excellent quality, especially of the case and bracelet. The design of the Royal, however, is a mixed bag. Initial thoughts The Royal is good enough that I hope it will be gently tweaked, which would make it outstanding; it could be so much better. In fact, the Royal is Tudor’s most paradoxical watch. The quality and wearability are good, some details are great, but the bezel and dial are both old fashioned and dull. Nevertheless, the Royal is, like nearly all Tudor watches, excellent value for money. Priced at about US$2,400, the Royal has an Oyster case that’s excellent in both construction, finish, and design. And it provides another alternative for those who want a solid Tudor watch that doesn’t look like a sports watch. The wide, flat face where it meets the bracelet is perhaps its most attractive feature The bracelet is a simple but robust construction that integrates well into the case And the watch wears well. Although the Day Date is wide at 41 mm (there are several smalle...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Frederique Constant Highlife RedBar Limited Editions sure are nice, and if you ain’t RedBar you can’t buy ’em (for now)
Frederique Constant has updated and overhauled their Highlife line, which was originally created more than 20 years ago to bring a high-value horological offering to the consumer. Standard production models of this new lineup were recently launched in steel, gold-plated, and two-tone steel and gold-plated models - in both time and date only (Automatic COSC) and … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Frederique Constant Highlife RedBar Limited Editions sure are nice, and if you ain’t RedBar you can’t buy ’em (for now) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Transparently Sublime Bovet Ottantasei By Pininfarina: Near Perfection – Reprise
Ian Skellern tried, but didn't quite manage, to come up with a more diplomatic way of saying this, so he just came out with it: up to this point, he had not generally been a fan of Bovet 1822. So he was surprised by just how much he was impressed with the Ottantasei by Pininfarina and would be very happy to wear one daily. But there is one niggle that he just can't shake off . . .
Time+Tide
What nickname has Instagram settled on for the Rolex Submariner ref. 126619LB in white gold?
Now that Rolex has released watches and ended that dreadful rumour that they were sitting 2020 out, the important work begins. Nicknaming them. The one that has perhaps caused the most contention, is this one, the Submariner ref. 126619LB in white gold. We’re going to tell you everything you need to know about it … ContinuedThe post What nickname has Instagram settled on for the Rolex Submariner ref. 126619LB in white gold? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Ressence Introduces the Type 3MC Unique Piece
Just months after a one-off Ressence was sold at auction to benefit the medical research department of a Belgian university, the brand has announced another philanthropic wristwatch, this time in association with Art in Time, a watch retailer in Monaco owned by Chopard. A unique piece Type 3MC is remarkably red – the primary colour of the Monegasque flag – elevating the sleek, contemporary style of Ressence to a striking new level. Initial thoughts With part of the proceeds going to the Prince Albert II of Monaco Foundation, a charity dedicated to ecological and social issues, the Type 3MC is a departure from the usually low-key look of the brand, as seen on the recent olive green Type 1 for instance. The red makes the rest of the dial less obvious, but there are other, more subtle colours, including the off-white markings and hands as well as orange and pale blue. Already an extremely impressive watch in design, concept, and execution, the Type 3MC will appeal to anyone who finds the standard versions too plain. And the fact that is a unique piece to benefit a good cause helps in accepting the price, which is steep, not to the the point of being exorbitant, but steep nonetheless. Two in one Colours aside, the Type 3MC has all of the standard Ressence tech, including a dial capsule filled with oil that refracts light, resulting in the optical illusion that of the dial being printed on the underside of the crystal. The oil also serves as a lubricant for the time-dis...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Man Tears Rotator Cuff Trying To Get Rolex Into Frame On Video Call
ReadySetMarketing is contesting Mr. Jung’s filing of worker’s compensation, stating that his Rolex isn’t an essential tool for his day to day duties and that no one else in the video call had their camera on except him. Read The Balance Cock Bugle for balanced horological news (probably).
Quill & Pad
New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Memovox and Master Control Memovox Timer For 2020: Resonant Delights
Jaeger-LeCoultre's brand-new Memovox models launched in 2020 are delectable new renditions of the 70-year-old alarm timepiece that have more to offer than "just" looks. Aside from the Master Control Memovox Timer's variety of tone-in-tone blue hues and textures and the Master Control Memovox's purist style, there are big changes to the movement that alone make these new models worth looking at.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The new Cartier Pasha collection has dropped, is it time you gave Genta’s most divisive design a closer look?
My dad once told me to never spoil a good story with the facts, and that’s a sentiment that seems to be well-loved within the watch industry. Whether it’s a Rolex reaching the summit of Everest, or the friendly tale of a hiker named Daniel Wellington, every watch is made just that little bit more … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new Cartier Pasha collection has dropped, is it time you gave Genta’s most divisive design a closer look? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Breaking News: LVMH Abandons Tiffany Takeover
Announced shortly before COVID-19 made the news, the US$16 billion deal to take over Tiffany & Co. has been scrapped by LVMH. The French luxury conglomerate, which counts Louis Vuitton, Dior, and Hublot amongst its brands, cited the looming tariffs on French goods announced by the United States. That led to instructions from the French government to delay the deal until January 2021, according to LVMH. Another reason cited by the French group was Tiffany’s request for extension of the closing date for the deal, from November to December. In response, Tiffany filed a lawsuit in the United States, seeking to force LVMH to complete the deal. Regardless of the motives behind the withdrawal, it appears to be a shrewd move by LVMH, which is controlled by Bernard Arnault, the richest man in France and widely regarded to be a hard-nosed dealmaker. In the 10 months since the deal has been announced, the world has changed drastically. The state of the the industry makes it likely that LVMH will be able to find cheaper avenues to cement its position as the world’s biggest luxury group. Tiffany shares fell almost 10% in pre-market trading on the news, while LVMH declined about 0.9% during the trading day in Paris.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The lightweight luxury of the new Bulgari Aluminium collection
Bulgari has revived a late ’90s classic with the new Bulgari Aluminium collection this year. A great blend of daily and luxury wear, these lightweight watches pack a heavy punch. While watch designs can be quite homogenous in a traditional industry, the new Bulgari Aluminium 2020 models are welcome revivals with their distinct Bulgari aesthetic. … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The lightweight luxury of the new Bulgari Aluminium collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture
A new stainless steel luxury sport watch with perpetual calendar.
Time+Tide
IN-DEPTH: The TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph collection offer size, sportiness and a sea of details
Editor’s note: The closer we have come to this new collection by TAG Heuer, the more details we have noticed and begun to appreciate. For example, the very unusual radially brushed finishing of the lush dials. See in the pics below. Yet more proof that big-box brands are still very aware of the power of … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph collection offer size, sportiness and a sea of details appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
NTH Watch Review: The DevilRay (The Devil Is In The Details)
There is certainly no shortage of midsize, casual, tool-like dive watches in the five hundred to one thousand dollar category these days. However, standing out in this category with the present abundance of choice is a bit of a rarity.
WatchAdvice
Cartier Santos-Dumont Hands-on Review
INTRODUCTION: Born from a friendship between Louis Cartier and his pilot pal – Brazlian Aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont – the Cartier Santos was created as a tool to help Alberto tell the time when flying. In the century or so since, Cartier’s Santos has been at the forefront of the brands watch collection, widely loved for its timeless design and icon status. In more recent years, Cartier’s watch department has been hard at work updating and refining their watch offering, collecting heaps of praise along the way. Earlier this year, the brand released a trio (the Santos-Dumont “Le Brésil,” “La Baladeuse,” and “No. 14 Bis” Limited Editions) of Large size limited editions during Watches & Wonders 2020. Each of these three watches feature Cartier’s in-house and hand-wound movement, a 430 MC. They’re also made from a combination of different metals with a dial to match, and were made in different quantities. Each of the trio is named after one of Alberto Santos-Dumont’s famous aircraft, which is featured on the caseback, alongside a corresponding motif engraving. Today, we’re taking a closer look at the No. 14 Bis Limited Edition, named after a biplane designed and built by Alberto Santos-Dumont, which made the first ‘publicly witnessed’ manned powered flight way back in 1906. The 14-Bis was also known as ‘Oiseau de proie’, French for ‘bird of prey’. FIRST IMPRESSIONS: I was blown away by my instantaneous affection for the Santo...
Quill & Pad
Champagne Ayala Collection No. 7, 2007: Full Of Sunshine And Plushness Thanks To A Revival In Fortune
Unfortunately, the devastation wrought by the pandemic has impacted sales of champagne more viciously than almost any other style of drink, but the quality of Ayala has never been better. Ken Gargett thinks that if you have neglected Ayala in the past, it is definitely time for a rethink. Or re-drink.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Artist and Watch Collaborations: Blurred Lines Between Fine Art, Fashion, and Consumerism | Part 1: Movado
The concept of the watch is no longer a tool, but a medium-and in a category of its own alongside sculpture or painting (consider Moser’s high-art Swiss Cheese Venturer or Swiss Alp Repeater). If this is something you’re willing to entertain, then it’s worth acknowledging the contributions of several dismissed brands and the artists behind them.
SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces the Submariner 41 mm
Rolex last did a major revamp for its iconic dive watch in 2012, when it introduced the ceramic insert bezel and beefier case. Eight years later the Submariner is once again refashioned and upgraded. It still retains the classic look that has changed little since the 1950s, but in typical Rolex style the new Submariner 41 mm boasts many incremental improvements, across the case, bracelet, and movement. The Submariner 41 mm is making its debut with eight different models, ranging from the no-date base model to the all-gold version, all powered by the cal. 3235 (except for the no-date that has the cal. 3230 inside). The Submariner ref. 124060 “no date” Initial thoughts The most monumental change – albeit one that is more obvious on paper than in person – is the upsized case. Forty-one millimetres is a first for the Submariner, with the preceding models having been being 40 mm for decades. However, the increase in size was not executed in isolation. The rest of the case was remodelled to fit, as was the bracelet, resulting in a pleasing, well-proportioned watch that doesn’t look as large as it sounds, and actually feels slimmer than it is. New movements Although everything about the new Submariner is new, arguably the most substantive change is the movement. The new models are the first Submariners to feature the current-generation cal. 3235 for the first time, although Rolex has been progressively installing new movements across the range for several years now. T...
SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces the New Oyster Perpetual (in Bright Colours Too)
A direct descendant of the first waterproof wristwatch that debuted in 1926, the Oyster Perpetual has long been the most straightforward offering from Rolex, a fuss-free, time-only watch that still retains the brand’s quintessential technology and design. Rolex has revamped the Oyster Perpetual – now available in in 41 mm, 36 mm, 34 mm, 31 mm, and 28 mm – giving it new dials, including colourful lacquer in candy pink, turquoise blue, yellow, coral red, and green, as well as the latest generation movements for the largest sizes. But not that all colours are available in every size; candy pink for instance is available only for the 36 mm and 31 mm models. The Oyster Perpetual 36 in the new colours Initial thoughts It is heartening to see the return of fun, brightly-coloured dials on affordable models, especially in solid colours instead of being combined with quirky patterns such as the concentric decoration found on earlier generations. The bright-colour dials on the largest 41 mm model in particular make for a lively look that is very different from the usual conservative style of the Oyster. More sedate dial colours – namely metallic silver, blue, and black – are also available, but it’s the silver the stands out. In fact, the silver dial is as interesting as its colourful counterparts. The use of gilded hands and indices on silver dial in a steel watch is unusual. Add to that the pale champagne wash over the silver finish, the result is a warm look that is...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Rolex Submariner ref. 122610LV – the Ceramic “Kermit”
Green is known to be a special colour for Rolex. In recent eras, to buy a new Rolex sports watch that had any parts fabricated in this particular green you would have to secure a stainless steel Rolex Submariner “Hulk”, yellow gold Rolex GMT-Master II, or yellow gold Rolex Daytona. It is usually quite rare … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Rolex Submariner ref. 122610LV – the Ceramic “Kermit” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Hollywood’s fake watches: from Kill Bill’s dodgy Rolex Daytona to Drive’s phoney Patek
Willing suspension of disbelief is part of the viewer’s contract with any film. But if you like watches, you still crave authenticity when it comes to a character’s timepiece. Much of the time, prop masters deliver the horological goods, too. You think of Captain Willard’s trusty Seiko 6105 in Apocalypse Now, Patrick Bateman’s Rolex Datejust … ContinuedThe post Hollywood’s fake watches: from Kill Bill’s dodgy Rolex Daytona to Drive’s phoney Patek appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces the Streamliner Centre Second
Launched earlier this year after much teasing, the Streamliner chronograph was the first sports watch – with an integrated bracelet – from H. Moser & Cie. The Streamliner design accomplished an unusual feature: bringing to the table a unique case and bracelet style that manages to look at home with other luxury-sports watches, while being distinctive enough to avoid being derivative. With Moser chief executive Edouard Meylan having revealed additional Streamliner models were in the pipeline, the latest is not a surprise. The Steamliner Centre Second retains the same case and bracelet style of the chronograph, but as a more affordable, time-only watch. Initial thoughts Slightly smaller than the chronograph, the time-only Streamliner is 40 mm wide and 11.8 mm high, so it is fairly classical in its proportions. That also means it probably wears slightly better than the chronograph, which was already quite compact despite its measurements. And the striking green fume dial doubtlessly gives the Streamliner Centre Second a good deal of wrist presence. Priced at a little under US$22,000, the new watch is markedly more affordable, costing half as much as the chronograph. That said, the Streamliner Centre Second is pricey compared to Moser’s other steel watches. While the chronograph was well priced and compelling, mainly because it is powered by the ingenious Agenhor movement, the time-only Streamliner isn’t quite as strong a value proposition. Streamliner style Havin...
Deployant
Hands-on With Piaget Altiplano Concept Ultimate – Thinnest mechanical Watch In The World
We go hands-on with the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept - the world's thinnest mechanical watch and tell you how it feels like on the wrist.