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Introducing Temporal Works, a New Brand from the Armoury’s Mark Cho Worn & Wound
Louis Vuitton Dec 4, 2025

Introducing Temporal Works, a New Brand from the Armoury’s Mark Cho

For those familiar with New York-by-way-of-Hong Kong menswear retailer The Armoury, Mark Cho’s move into watches won’t come as any major shock. His brand has long flirted with watchmakers and collaboration over the years, including with H. Moser & Cie., UNIMATIC, and Paulin. Now, Temporal Works, co-founded with The Armoury’s creative director, Elliot Hammer, is the natural progression for the brand. Their inaugural collection, Series A, reflects the same approach that has defined The Armoury since it opened in 2010 (and why the store has recently been named one of New York Times’ top 50 menswear stores in the country). Taking inspiration from a bygone era of tailoring, The Armoury is all wood-paneled, brick-walled masculinity that celebrates an inherent grace when dressing well.  The Series A has this same throughline, using Cho’s singular vision of his retail store – masculine, elegant, and minimalist. In fact, the connection between Temporal Works and his existing brand is a throughline explicitly made by the founder, who noted, “Our goal was straightforward: create watches as thoughtfully designed and effortlessly wearable as a perfectly tailored navy blazer.” This jumping-off point seems to work in both Hammer and Cho’s favor, as the Series A clearly shows an unwavering vision of a brand identity that feels complementary without being derivative (something other lifestyle-to-watch brands like Louis Vuitton and Montblanc sometimes struggle with). This...

Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Henry’s Top Choices From Seiko, IWC, Rolex, And More Fratello
Rolex Jul 23, 2025

Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Henry’s Top Choices From Seiko, IWC, Rolex, And More

When the opportunity arose to tackle a Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025 feature, I jumped at the chance. My managing editor Nacho and I did have a chuckle, though. You see, here in Sydney, Australia, it is currently winter. Southern Hemisphere, represent! When the discussion first occurred to write this feature, I looked up the […] Visit Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Henry’s Top Choices From Seiko, IWC, Rolex, And More to read the full article.

IWC Portugieser Buyer's Guide Teddy Baldassarre
IWC Mar 4, 2025

IWC Portugieser Buyer's Guide

IWC is a Swiss watch company, founded by an American, whose history is closely tied with Germany. But one of its most enduringly popular timepiece families is called the Portugieser, and it’s likely that lots of enthusiasts and would-be owners don’t even know why - or that the watch itself preceded that now-familiar name by many decades. What's indisputable is the Portugieser's key role in IWC's history and its impact on watchmaking - from its humble origins as a market-specific experiment to its modern incarnation as a major pillar of IWC's collection.   1939: Two Portuguese Businessmen Walk Into a Watch Factory… Stop me if you’ve heard this one before. Actually, don’t bother, because I’ll be retelling the origin story of the IWC Portugieser anyway, for those who aren’t familiar with it. Like much of the rest of the world, in the throes of the Great Depression and under the gathering storm clouds of a second World War, the Swiss watch industry was facing rough economic times in the 1930s. The International Watch Company, based in Schaffhausen in Switzerland’s German-speaking north, dealt with the challenges in a number of practical ways. One was by making wristwatches that could be worn by military pilots for the aerial combat that was looking increasingly inevitable. (I tell that story in much more detail here.) Another was by expanding its reach to international markets such as Portugal. Thus it came to be that two gentlemen by the name of Antonio...

IWC’s Super Shock Resistant Big Pilot XPL Gains Formula 1 Livery SJX Watches
Richard Mille Feb 18, 2025

IWC’s Super Shock Resistant Big Pilot XPL Gains Formula 1 Livery

IWC gives its exceptionally shock resistant – and strikingly expensive – aviator’s watch a new look. The Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL Toto Wolff is dressed in the black and green livery of the Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team that’s sponsored by IWC and led by Austrian auto entrepreneur Toto Wolff. Although largely unchanged from the original version, the Toto Wolff edition features a stamped, grained dial with a cleaner aesthetic and open-worked hands. And the BMG shock-absorbing spring that rings the movement is coated in Petronas green Super-LumiNova for maximum visual effect. Initial thoughts Despite its (very) limited commercial success, the original Big Pilot XPL is an interesting example of horological engineering. While its considerable price tag was debatable, the technology inside was novel and exemplifies IWC’s historical focus on engineering. The new iteration is hardly revolutionary since it’s merely a cosmetic makeover, but it does bring a new aesthetics that might give the watch a bigger audience, especially with the high profile of Formula 1 and Toto Wolff himself thanks to the Netflix series about the sport. The new Toto Wolff edition is priced at US$102,000, comparable to the first version and steep for a time-only watch, especially so for an IWC. However, seen another way, the price is perhaps competitive since the another brand that has long emphasised shock resistance and Formula 1 is Richard Mille, and any of its watches is...

Introducing: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL Toto Wolff × Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team Watch Fratello
Hamilton fight Feb 18, 2025

Introducing: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL Toto Wolff × Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team Watch

A couple of big questions are at the top of my mind ahead of the upcoming Formula 1 season. Will Max Verstappen once again become world champion? Can Lewis Hamilton fight for his eighth world title in a Ferrari? And also, will Mercedes-AMG Petronas be back on top after a few difficult years? One thing […] Visit Introducing: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL Toto Wolff × Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team Watch to read the full article.

The Fratello Watch List: Daan’s Pre-Owned And Neo-Vintage Favorites From Bvlgari, IWC, Breitling, And Girard-Perregaux Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Welcome Nov 8, 2024

The Fratello Watch List: Daan’s Pre-Owned And Neo-Vintage Favorites From Bvlgari, IWC, Breitling, And Girard-Perregaux

Welcome to the second installment of our new series, Fratello Watch List! Thomas kicked off this short series of articles exposing some of our writers’ watch hit lists. We all have a (not-so-)little list of references we plan on owning or maybe just dream of acquiring someday, don’t we? Today, it’s my turn to expose […] Visit The Fratello Watch List: Daan’s Pre-Owned And Neo-Vintage Favorites From Bvlgari, IWC, Breitling, And Girard-Perregaux to read the full article.

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K -Thomas’s Picks From Rolex, Zenith, And IWC Fratello
Zenith Aug 9, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K -Thomas’s Picks From Rolex, Zenith, And IWC

We are back with another series of Fratelli Favorites. After a few more accessible price points, we are now looking at the best watches under €10K - or, at least, our favorites under €10K since this will always be highly subjective. As is often the case, I get the honor of kicking things off, leaving […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K -Thomas’s Picks From Rolex, Zenith, And IWC to read the full article.

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - Thor’s Picks From IWC, Christopher Ward, Oris, And More Fratello
Christopher Ward Oris Jul 1, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - Thor’s Picks From IWC, Christopher Ward, Oris, And More

Another challenge accepted, and this time, it’s a hard one. As you know, €5,000 is not the Rolex-bag-filling stash it once was. Yes, I’m old, but it wasn’t that long ago that €5K was big money. Finding the best watches under €5,000 is not easy these days. I say that reasonably subjectively, even understanding Lex’s […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - Thor’s Picks From IWC, Christopher Ward, Oris, And More to read the full article.

Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Sleeper Watches: Part 2 - Featuring IWC, Patek Philippe, Omega, And More Fratello
Patek Philippe Omega Mar 1, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Sleeper Watches: Part 2 - Featuring IWC, Patek Philippe, Omega, And More

Another Friday, another Top 5! This time, we will continue where we left off last week and present even more great pre-owned options. In this mini-series, we want to highlight some less obvious picks from different brands. Some of these are watches you may never have heard of, while others might be good reminders of […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Sleeper Watches: Part 2 - Featuring IWC, Patek Philippe, Omega, And More to read the full article.

IWC Debuts the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph SJX Watches
Rolex Daytona or Heuer Carrera Nov 18, 2023

IWC Debuts the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph

Just in time for the Formula 1 Las Vegas Grand Prix, IWC reveals another rendition of a racing chronograph, the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph. Available in two guises either titanium or Ceratanium, the new model retains the familiar visage of the standard Pilot’s Chronograph but with racetrack-inspired tweaks. Initial thoughts IWC has never quite had a bona fide racing chronograph with the gravitas of the Rolex Daytona or Heuer Carrera. Its past racing timepieces included the little loved and now discontinued Ingenieur and the more successful Pilot’s Chronograph Mercedes-AMG.  With the success of the Pilot’s Chronograph Mercedes-AMG with its Tiffany blue-esque colour, it’s unsurprising that another iteration has come along. The new chronograph has a distinctive racing aesthetic despite being a Pilot’s Chronograph, thanks to the tachymeter scale and more pronounced dial markings. The Formula 1 feel is particularly evident in the Ceratanium model that’s distinguished by its predominantly black design embellished with white and mint green accents.  That said, the paradox of a Formula 1-inspired aviator’s watch is hard to understand – the two themes don’t go together at all, although it is an appealing sports watch. IWC is relying on the strength of its bestselling Pilot’s line to build a racing offering, in part due to the Ingenieur’s historical lack of success. The Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team model The model starts at US$9,800 in ...

IWC Explores New Materials with the Big Pilot’s Watch AMG G 63 SJX Watches
Richard Mille have long made such Sep 14, 2023

IWC Explores New Materials with the Big Pilot’s Watch AMG G 63

IWC’s latest is an inspired by the legendary off-roader made by its longtime partner Mercedes-Benz, the G-Wagen. More specifically, the Big Pilot’s Watch AMG G 63 is named after the luxury, high-performance G 63 made by the carmaker’s performance tuning subsidiary AMG. Available in two variants, the G 63 edition retains the traditional outline of the model, but brings along novel new materials, namely a hardened gold alloy known as Armor Gold and ceramic matrix composite (CMC), a carbon fibre composite containing silicon carbide ceramic for added hardness. The Big Pilot’s Watch AMG G 63 in 18k Armor Gold Initial thoughts IWC rolls out a lot of Big Pilot limited editions, probably too many, but this is one of the more appealing recent editions. The basic features of the Big Pilot G 63 are appealing – novel materials, a functional design, and IWC’s seven-day movement. The textured dials and sub-seconds are both novel features for a Big Pilot. They set the new pair part from other models in the line, but don’t stray too far from the traditional Big Pilot look. More interesting are the case materials – hardened gold or silicon-infused carbon composite – which are both a first for IWC. Though brands like Hublot and Richard Mille have long made such materials a specialty, they are unusual for IWC. Notably, both versions have Super-Luminova matched with the case material, beige for the gold model and grey for CMC, which feels a bit forced. I would have preferred...

The IWC Pilot’s Watch Gets a Full-Lume Dial SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Aug 28, 2023

The IWC Pilot’s Watch Gets a Full-Lume Dial

Soon after unveiling the Big Pilot perpetual calendar in white ceramic, IWC is introducing the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 “Black Aces”. While retaining the customary dial layout of the model, the “Black Aces” sports a fully-luminous dial – a first for the brand. The watch gets it name from the U.S. Navy’s Strike Fighter Squadron 41 “Black Aces”, which collaborated with IWC on the watch’s key design elements. Initial thoughts  The recent Top Gun watches with coloured ceramic cases have been bestsellers for IWC, though most have been complicated and pricier models. Hence, it is rather pleasing to see IWC do something with the entry-level Pilot’s Watch by giving it a simple yet appealing twist.  Instead a run-of-the-mill dial colour, the “Black Aces” gets a lume dial that’s novel for IWC. The full-lume dial, however, is not new to watchmaking, with several brands having such dials for several years now, including Bell & Ross with its pilot’s watches. Beyond the colour, the military provenance and “Black Aces” emblem gives the watch a tangible military link that many of IWC’s fans will like.  Notably, this watch contains the cal. 32100. I would have preferred the cal. 32111 that was used in the new Ingenieur instead. Both are essentially the same calibre, but the latter is a higher-spec version of the movement with a longer power reserve of 120 hours, as opposed the 72 hours of the cal. 32100.  This movement was presumably used because o...

Sam Kerr joins IWC to continue the brand’s tradition of sporting greats Time+Tide
Hamilton Jun 29, 2023

Sam Kerr joins IWC to continue the brand’s tradition of sporting greats

“We’re very lucky,” IWC CEO Chris-Grainger Herr modestly admits, when it comes to the brand’s stable of ambassadors and friends of the brand. The Schaffhausen brand has enjoyed a long relationship with two legendary sportsmen in the form of Lewis Hamilton and, until recently, Tom Brady. What’s interesting though, is how IWC now seem to … ContinuedThe post Sam Kerr joins IWC to continue the brand’s tradition of sporting greats appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Remember that unreleased IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Lake Tahoe Lewis Hamilton was caught wearing? Well, it’s out now! Time+Tide
Hamilton was caught wearing? Well Jun 15, 2023

Remember that unreleased IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Lake Tahoe Lewis Hamilton was caught wearing? Well, it’s out now!

Lewis Hamilton was photographed wearing an unreleased white IWC watch at F1 Miami in May IWC today releases the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Lake Tahoe  It will be available at the beginning of July 2023 While I may be the New York City kid who has yet to get his driver’s … ContinuedThe post Remember that unreleased IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Lake Tahoe Lewis Hamilton was caught wearing? Well, it’s out now! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Mark Cho’s Survey of Watch Size Preference and Our Own Wrist Size Perceptions is Back Worn & Wound
Jan 25, 2023

Mark Cho’s Survey of Watch Size Preference and Our Own Wrist Size Perceptions is Back

Data nerds, rejoice: Mark Cho’s watch size survey is back. Back in 2019, watch collector and menswear retailer Mark Cho conducted his first watch size survey in an attempt to put some data behind one of the most peculiar yet foundational facets of watch collecting (we wrote about that survey here). The questions in Mark’s survey go beyond simple preferences, but get to how we view our own wrist size. Is it smaller or larger than average? And what effect does that have on the watches we choose to buy? Mark even asks about preferences for a potential “secondary watch” (a sports watch for the weekend, for example) to put an even finer point on the way we feel about watch size.  When Mark first conducted the survey, he found that a significant percentage of respondents viewed their wrist as smaller than average, which could theoretically have been a result of the tail end of the Big Watch era making us all think our wrists were too small to comfortably handle some of the most popular watches of the time. In the relatively short period that’s passed since that first survey, though, smaller watches (not small watches) have fully come back into fashion, so it will be interesting to see if perceptions change along with preferences. Regardless, there’s sure to be a ton of data, and it will be interesting to comb through it once the survey is complete.  If you’re interested in Mark’s findings from that first survey, be sure to check out his lecture for the Horologi...

INTRODUCING: The IWC Bronze Pilot’s Chronograph 41 offers a grittier take on a rising trend Time+Tide
Norqain Freedom 60 GMT Bronze Jun 2, 2022

INTRODUCING: The IWC Bronze Pilot’s Chronograph 41 offers a grittier take on a rising trend

The first rule of half-arsed journalism is that if something happens twice it’s a coincidence and if it happens three times then it’s a trend. On that basis the theme of the past week has been bronze-cased watches with blue dials. Along came the Norqain Freedom 60 GMT Bronze Midnight Blue, followed in quick succession with the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The IWC Bronze Pilot’s Chronograph 41 offers a grittier take on a rising trend appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Exhibition: Two Decades of the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch in Singapore SJX Watches
Hamilton Aug 29, 2021

Exhibition: Two Decades of the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch in Singapore

Modelled on a navigation instrument of the second world war, the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch has since become the archetypal modern-day aviator’s watch for the Schaffhausen watchmaker – and reputedly a favourite of Formula 1 champ Lewis Hamilton. As the Big Pilot approaches its 20th anniversary – the original ref. 5002 was introduced in 2002 – IWC is staging an exhibition dedicated to its oversized pilot’s watch in Singapore. The exhibition will showcase 31 Big Pilots from the IWC Museum, including the legendary and quirky Big Pilot’s Watch Markus Bühler “Turbine” ref. 5003 (stay tuned for a few highlights from the exhibition, including the Bühler). The exhibition is open to the public daily from September 9-12, but registration is required for entry. Update September 7, 2021: Registration is closed as the exhibition has reached the maximum capacity allowed by government guidelines, as a result walk-in visitors cannot be admitted. The watch that started it all, a 1940s Beobachtungsuhr, or “navigator’s watch”, made for the German Air Force Exhibition details The Big Pilot Exhibition Design Orchard 250 Orchard Road Singapore 238905 September 9-12, 2021 12 pm – 9 pm on weekdays, and 11 am – 9 pm weekends Entry is free, but registration is required on IWC.com. Update September 7, 2021: All pre-registration tickets have been taken up. Walk-ins will be accepted on a first-come- first-served basis, but subject to venue capacity. This was brought to y...