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Results for Pilot Watch

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Pilot Watch

The aviation tool-watch genre. Cartier Santos (1904), the WWII B-Uhr, the French Type 20 flyback, the RAF Mark XI, the Breitling Navitimer.
Swatch and The Simpsons Meet for a Watch Honoring the Long Running Series Worn & Wound
Blancpain collabs Nov 13, 2023

Swatch and The Simpsons Meet for a Watch Honoring the Long Running Series

I am an unabashed fan of Swatch. I’ve always loved Swatch watches, and as I’ve gotten deeper and deeper into the hobby over the years, my appreciation for them has only grown. They occupy a position that only a few other brands can claim, which is that they’re both an entry point into the hobby, and an arena for very serious collecting. Seriously, Swatch collecting is almost a separate category from watch collecting entirely, and requires a completely different base of knowledge, and, often, an appreciation for things that more mainstream collectors don’t often think about (like packaging, to name just one example).  Swatch has been on something of a roll lately in my opinion, releasing a slew of watches that are genuinely interesting and visually striking, and sometimes paying homage to the brand’s early days in unexpected ways. One of my favorite pastimes around here is calling out the great things Swatch does besides the neverending collaborations with their luxury group siblings (it’s no secret that I’m not the biggest fan of the MoonSwatch and new Blancpain collabs), and a recent release, a collaboration of a different sort, caught my eye. Yes, Swatch has a new watch featuring classic iconography from The Simpsons, one of the most omnipresent pieces of pop culture in our lives over the last three decades. It’s a perfectly cromulent watch if there ever was one.  The Seconds of Sweetness watch uses Homer’s famous pink donut as a motif, with ever pres...

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Nodus Introduces a Limited Edition Sector Sport with Bronze Accents Worn & Wound
Seiko NH38 While Nodus has Oct 26, 2023

Nodus Introduces a Limited Edition Sector Sport with Bronze Accents

One could argue that the core of a modern watch company is a competent sports watch. If that were true, it would be no surprise that LA-based Nodus Watches has really found its stride by building a strong catalog of durable, interesting models under $1,000. The so-called Sector Series encompasses – among others – Dive, GMT, and Pilot’s watches. The foundation of this line is simply called the Sector Sport, and today Nodus is adding a limited Sector Sport in steel and bronze. Based on the platonic ideal of a “sports watch” as it was defined in the mid-century, the Sector philosophy is grounded in two defining tenets: 1) an adaptable midcase amenable to varying finishes and future add-ons and 2) a sector dial demarcated by differences in texture and finishing. Specs-wise it means a 38mm x 12.5mm x 47mm case with 20mm lugs, accompanied by an H-link bracelet that tapers from 20 to 18mm. The bracelet also includes the proprietary Nodus NodeX clasp for on-the-fly adjustments. Inside is the Seiko NH38. While Nodus has historically iterated on the Sport with bold colors like Glacial and Marigold, it is taking a new approach with this bronze and steel reference. The anthracite dial is composed of two brass plates. One is the inner sector where the hour hand neatly terminates; the outer sector is home to gilt PVD-coated hour markers. The hands have the same gilt treatment and, paired with the dial, make for a warm and subdued aesthetic. The most noteworthy update here is t...

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Hands-On: the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Automatic in Rose Gold Worn & Wound
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Automatic Oct 6, 2023

Hands-On: the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Automatic in Rose Gold

Something I think about quite a bit in this hobby is the idea that the watches we wear are often just part of a costume that we’re presenting to the outside world. They exist as aspirational symbols of what we’d like our life to be. There’s a cosplay aspect to wearing certain watches that I’m never quite able to shake, even watches I love. I wear, on most days, either a pilot’s watch or a diver, and I don’t fly a plane and I don’t even really like to swim. I wear these watches because I genuinely enjoy them as watches, but I’d be lying if a small part of me didn’t feel like a pretender, a guy asking himself who he thinks he’s kidding with this super tactical pilot’s instrument strapped to his wrist. I’ve never felt that feeling more acutely than in my time with the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Automatic in rose gold. This watch, let’s just say, is not in my normal wheelhouse. While I appreciate it aesthetically (in fact, I find it quite beautiful) it’s not the kind of thing I’d choose to wear. But more than that, this watch is part of a micro-genre of watches that is very specific, one that I’m fascinated by, but am personally so far removed from, I am legitimately probably closer to the pilot walking into the US Navy Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor program than I am the dude who this watch was made for.  The Tonda PF Sport Auto is part of a class of watches I think of as “leisure sport,” with a heavy emphasis on the leisure. Th...

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A Roundup of High End IWC Releases from the Last Month Worn & Wound
IWC Releases from Oct 4, 2023

A Roundup of High End IWC Releases from the Last Month

If you think IWC has been catching their breath after reimagining the Ingenieur earlier this year, think again. The Schaffhausen-based brand has been busy dishing out high end watches over the last month – headlined by the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Tourbillon Markus Bühler – as well as heavy hitters through partnerships with automotive powerhouses. From complications to composite materials, there’s a lot to dig into here. Travel back to winter 2008 for a moment. The global economy is still roiled in recession, the federal funds rate is zero, and IWC marches out one of the rarest and most distinctive references ever: the Big Pilot’s Watch Edition Markus Bühler (Ref. 5003). Named after famed IWC apprentice Markus Bühler, the watch featured airplane turbines on the dial and also on its movement. A few years earlier, Bühler’s concept had won the top prize at the Prix IFHH de l’Horlogerie (now known as the Concours IHC), and IWC only made a limited run of twelve pieces. A decade and a half later we meet its successor, the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Tourbillon Markus Bühler. It’s platinum, it’s 43mm, and it’s a real unit. True to form, the turbine is back but has now been integrated into a flying (haha) tourbillon. IWC has crafted the turbine blades from a titanium alloy for weight saving and even repurposed its upper cage as the regulator. The hairspring is attached to one of the blades, allowing a watchmaker to adjust the zero crossing of the balance simply by ...

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Laco Introduces the Atacama Quartz UTC, a True Tool No Matter How You Slice It Worn & Wound
Laco Introduces Sep 6, 2023

Laco Introduces the Atacama Quartz UTC, a True Tool No Matter How You Slice It

Doomsday preppers and the most hardcore of watch collectors are in for a real treat. German watch manufacturer Laco is doubling down on the success of its Atacama.2 by introducing the Atacama Quarz UTC. It’s a more affordable and focused watch with a new trick up its sleeve: GMT functionality. Primarily known for their excellent pilot watches, Laco has collaborated closely with German soldiers, firefighters, and other action-oriented professionals to hone their “Squad and Sport” timepieces. It only takes a glance to understand. You can learn a lot about this watch in its name. It’s still an Atacama, which means it shares the same PVD-coated treatment, date complication, rubber strap, unidirectional bezel, and matte dial as the Atacama.2. But now it’s powered by quartz, “Quarz” in German, and features an independent GMT – or UTC – hand. The new watch is 46mm in diameter, but the Ronda 515 GMT quartz movement inside has enabled Laco to slim the watch down to 10.5mm with a “contact area” of just 34mm. This is also in part due to the conical shape of the case, allowing the watch to feel much smaller and comfortable on the wrist than its maximum diameter may suggest. The use of black PVD-coating and generous amounts of lume on the hands, dial, and bezel result in a watch that is supremely legible to its wearer while remaining subdued to would-be onlookers (or enemies). The crown at twelve o-clock is integrated into and protected by the articulating lugs. D...

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Why I Bought It: Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Black Matte Ceramic – Reprise Quill & Pad
Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Black Matte Sep 2, 2023

Why I Bought It: Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Black Matte Ceramic – Reprise

The first time Bhanu Chopra strapped a borrowed BR 03-92 Black Matte Ceramic on his wrist, he thought that it was the perfect Bell & Ross watch for him, checking all the boxes for the characteristics he expected from an aviation-style instrument watch. He bought one and it has been part of his core pilot’s watch collection ever since. This is why.

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Wear this Pride-themed Swatch in Malaysia and you face a three-year jail term Time+Tide
Swatch Aug 11, 2023

Wear this Pride-themed Swatch in Malaysia and you face a three-year jail term

A couple of weeks ago, T+T reported how Swatch were suing the Malaysian government after it seized 172 of their watches from stores. The reason for the seizure?  The watches, which come in either rainbow colours or a single colour with a rainbow trim, were released in support of Pride, the movement that promotes the … ContinuedThe post Wear this Pride-themed Swatch in Malaysia and you face a three-year jail term appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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IWC celebrates 75 years of the Mark series with a silver-dialled Mark XX Time+Tide
IWC celebrates 75 years Jun 17, 2023

IWC celebrates 75 years of the Mark series with a silver-dialled Mark XX

There’s no doubt that IWC is one of the most important players in the pilot’s watch game. Without digging too deep, numerous legendary models have emerged, from the very first Mark 11 issued to the RAF in 1948 to the latest Big Pilot’s Perpetual Calendar. It is that very first Mark-series watch that is being … ContinuedThe post IWC celebrates 75 years of the Mark series with a silver-dialled Mark XX appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Breitling Introduces the Classic AVI Chronograph 42 and AVI ref. 765 1964 Re-Edition SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Jun 6, 2023

Breitling Introduces the Classic AVI Chronograph 42 and AVI ref. 765 1964 Re-Edition

Having already debuted an oversized take on the ref. 765 AVI “Co-Pilot” of 1953, Breitling now introduces the Classic AVI Chronograph 42, a scaled-down version that pays homage to the vintage original. Unlike its bigger brother, the 46 mm Super AVI GMT that features a second time zone function, the Classic AVI is a no-frills watch with just the time and chronograph. The Classic AVI makes its debut with a range of regular-production models, each inspired by a historical fighter plane, alongside the limited-edition AVI ref. 765 1964 Re-Edition. Classic AVI Chronograph 42 Curtiss P-40 Warhawk Initial thoughts The Super AVI GMT is a vintage-inspired chronograph with an appealing design, but with the drawback of the 46 mm case – huge by even by modern standards. The introduction of a more compact version is welcome, even if this addition further expands Breitling’s extensive (and sometimes confusing) catalogue.  With its smaller case, the Classic AVI has arguably better proportions than its bigger brother, with dimensions better suited to the vintage-inspired styling. And because it is equipped with a Valjoux movement (otherwise known as the Breitling Caliber 23), the Classic AVI is amongst the most affordable Breitling chronographs, adding to its appeal. The P-51 Mustang The P-51 Mustang is the standout among the Classic AVI line-up. It has classic pilot’s chronograph aesthetics with a black dial and faux-patina Arabic numerals that provide a nostalgic feel.  But e...

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[Video] Hands-On: the Aera D-1 Ocean Diver Worn & Wound
May 31, 2023

[Video] Hands-On: the Aera D-1 Ocean Diver

Aera Instruments is a brand based in the UK that just unveiled their second collection, consisting of incremental updates to their D-1 and P-1 diver and pilot watches. The D-1 Ocean Diver is a blue version of the black watch that debuted last year, and it has a couple of small less visible refinements that improve the overall experience Aera is providing. The choices they made – what to update, and what not to update – reveal something about where the brand might be heading, and what they deem important. I had a chance to briefly handle the initial D-1 and P-1 releases last year, and while I thought they were completely fine, they didn’t linger in the mind the way some watches do. I’ve been wearing the D-1 for about a week now, though, and find myself really enjoying the subtly complex design choices and distinctly contemporary vibe of this dive watch.  $1600 [Video] Hands-On: the Aera D-1 Ocean Diver Case 904L Steel Movement Sellita SW200-1 Elabore Grade Dial Blue Lume Globolight markers Lens Sapphire Strap Rubber Water Resistance 300 meters Dimensions 40 x 49.8mm Thickness 16mm Lug Width 22mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $1600 Notable Specs and Features  Looking through the spec sheet, the number that will likely jump out at most people right away is the D-1’s diameter: a healthy 44mm. And that’s not the only large number you’ll find when you take your calipers to the case. The lug to lug is 49.8mm, the lug width is 22mm, and the case height (to th...

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Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces Mar 27, 2023

Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor

Fresh off the success of last year’s unexpected Santos-Dumont “Lacquered Case”, Cartier continues with the theme but now with an newly developed open-worked movement. Making its debut in three variants, the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor underscore Cartier’s commitment to the Santos-Dumont, the model that’s truest to the 1904 watch designed for pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont. Equipped with the cal. 9629 MC that has a plane-shaped rotor, the three references include a pair of regular production models in steel and rose gold, along with a 150-piece limited edition in a striking combination of yellow gold and blue lacquer. Initial Thoughts Cartier been using lacquer to decorate its jewellery, watches, and accessories almost since its founding in 1847. While a first for the brand in the modern-day – and also unique amongst watchmakers – last year’s lacquered Santos-Dumont was modelled on a similar 1920s watch, so it makes sense for the Parisian jeweller to continue with the theme. In this context, the highlight of the Santos-Dumont Skeleton collection is undoubtedly the yellow gold model with navy-blue lacquer inlays. Not only is the lacquer applied to the case and bezel as was the case with last year’s model, but it is applied to the movement bridges. The combination of lacquer, skeleton movement, and a whimsical plane-shaped rotor instantly sets it apart from other Cartier watches, yet it is still easily recognisable as a Cartier creation. This watch ce...

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Hands On: IWC Portofino Complete Calendar SJX Watches
Casio nal Roman numerals.  While Feb 20, 2023

Hands On: IWC Portofino Complete Calendar

Last year, IWC reinvigorated the underrated Portofino line that’s long been overshadowed by the bestselling Pilot’s Watch and Portugieser. Historically one of the brand’s most classical offerings, the Portofino is best summarised as clean, almost minimalist, with the occasional Roman numerals.  While recent Portofino complications have been somewhat plain, the Portofino perpetual calendar made things a little more interesting. Now IWC is continuing with the theme in a more affordable manner with the Portofino Complete Calendar. Taking its design cues from the more complex perpetual, the Complete Calendar is slightly larger but mechanically simpler. And as a result of the entry-level pricing, it is is powered by the no-frills ValFleurier movement widely used by watch brands owned by Swiss luxury group Richemont, which naturally includes IWC.  The symmetrical dial The ValFleurier movement has been dressed up for the display back Initial thoughts For the longest time, IWC has emphasised two lines, Pilot’s Watches and Portugieser, simply because they sell the best. At the same time, it has tried  to rejuvenate its other collections like the Ingenieuir and Aquatimer with little success. Last year it made tentative steps in reviving the Portofino collection with an all-new perpetual calendar. Simple in design, the Portofino perpetual doesn’t try to do too much – and for that reason it found some success as the brand’s entry-level perpetual calendar. Now IWC is ...

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Hands-On with the Rugged, Adventure-Ready, Gavox Longitude Worn & Wound
Feb 13, 2023

Hands-On with the Rugged, Adventure-Ready, Gavox Longitude

Based in Belgium, Gavox was early on the micro-brand scene, launching in 2011 with their first watches crossing our desks in 2013. But it’s been a little while since we last had a Gavox in the office for review. In December 2019, they launched a 36mm pilot’s watch with a quartz movement and a “dirty dozen” appeal. As we all know, shortly after, life changed quite a bit. But Gavox persisted if quietly, making a bold return in late 2022 with the announcement of a new and ambitious watch powered by the equally exciting Miyota 9075 “flyer” GMT. Called the Longitude, it’s a fresh take on the integrated bracelet sports watch, combining a handful of timely trends into a well-specced-out package. Named to inspire a sense of exploration, it also has a personal connection Michael Happé, the founder of the brand. A descendant of Dirk Hartog, a 17th-century Dutch explorer who is credited as the first Western European to set foot in Australia, the watch celebrates this connection. Despite the historical and seemingly nautical roots of the Longitude, the watch itself is a very modern expression of adventure. Available in four colors at launch, including an entirely black DLC version, the Longitude has a final price tag of $1122, but is available for pre-order at $762 through March, 2023. $1122 Hands-On with the Rugged, Adventure-Ready, Gavox Longitude Case Kolsterized Steel Movement Miyota 9075 Dial Faceted Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Integrated Bracelet Water Resistance...

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Zenith El Primero Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Jan 20, 2023

Zenith El Primero Guide

The Zenith El Primero, found today in watches throughout Zenith’s collection, from the Chronomaster to the Defy to the Pilot, is arguably the watch world’s most famous movement - more widely known, in fact, than some of the watch models to whom it has given life during its half-century-plus of existence. The reasons for its renown are several, from the technical revolution it represented at its origin to the legendary role it played in the post-Quartz Crisis revival of the mechanical watch. Here we examine what made the El Primero so special in the first place and introduce you to some modern watches that demonstrate how it is still evolving and improving in the 21st century. A FOUNDATION OF PRECISION Watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot was a mere 22 years of age when he founded the atelier that would become Zenith in Le Locle, Switzerland in 1865. Favre-Jacot, a contemporary of Swiss modern architecture pioneer le Corbusier, took his own pioneering approach to making watches, becoming one of the first to bring the various horological disciplines under one roof as opposed to the more common établissage system that most watchmakers used at the time, which had different parts made in different small workshops before being delivered to another workshop for assembly into a finished watch, Georges Favre-Jacot & co. became Zenith in 1911, the company taking its new name from a top-of-the-line movement it created that won a Grand Prix for precision at the 1900 Paris World’s F...

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Hands On: IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar IWC Nov 30, 2022

Hands On: IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar

IWC has a suite of instantly recognisable models synonymous with the brand, namely the Pilot’s Watches and of course, the Portugieser. But one collection does get as much recognition as its peers, despite being almost 40 years old. Named after the famous seaside city in Italy, the Portofino was introduced in 1984 (though the inaugural model didn’t yet have the Portofino name at the time) as an oversized pocket watch-style wristwatch, something of a clarion call to persist with mechanical watchmaking after the Quartz Crisis. Now the brand has revived one of the classics from the line with the Portofino Perpetual Calendar. At 40 mm in diameter, it’s the most compact of IWC’s perpetual calendars and is equipped with an in-house movement from the 82000 family. Initial thoughts The perpetual calendar is a sought-after complication for its utility but also its aesthetics, especially when it includes a moon phase, which adds a touch of romanticism to the design. IWC’s latest take on the complication is straightforward, practical, and priced reasonably enough. In fact, it’s essentially a visually-simplified version of the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42, which uses the same movement but inside a larger case. While not revolutionary in technical terms, the Portofino Perpetual Calendar is a solid performer with a concise design. It retains all the features that made the 1990s original appealing but adds a few contemporary touches in both design and the in-house base m...

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HANDS-ON: The Laco Scorpion 39 collection delivers rugged, 39mm dive watches with a sense of fun Time+Tide
Laco Scorpion 39 collection delivers Oct 22, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Laco Scorpion 39 collection delivers rugged, 39mm dive watches with a sense of fun

Laco are phenomenally popular with Flieger wearers as they’re one of the affordable brands to have made those original pilot’s watches during WWII. Now, the brand are as strong as ever and have branched out significantly from what could be considered their staple. The Laco Scorpion is a new extension to their Squad Watch collection … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Laco Scorpion 39 collection delivers rugged, 39mm dive watches with a sense of fun appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Exhibition: IWC ‘Monochromatic Top Gun’ in Singapore SJX Watches
IWC Monochromatic Top Gun’ Oct 19, 2022

Exhibition: IWC ‘Monochromatic Top Gun’ in Singapore

Twenty-twenty two has been all about the Pilot’s Watch for IWC, but with a particular focus on materials, including coloured ceramics and titanium. All that materials tech, watchmaking, and military provenance is now on show in Singapore with Monochromatic Top Gun. Taking place from October 22-30, 2022, the exhibition showcases the brand’s aviator’s watches – including rarely-seen watches made for actual military pilots – along with its watchmaking knowhow in a series of classes and talks. The centrepiece of the exhibition is the all-ceramic line of Pilot’s Watches named after the US Navy’s fight jet academy, Top Gun. Historically available only in black, the Top Gun collection has more recently become a platform for IWC to roll out a range of coloured ceramics. Naturally the show includes the year’s new launches, namely the Top Gun chronographs in forest green or white ceramic. Earlier models such as the Miramar with its sand-coloured ceramic case are also on show, along with the quintessential all-black version. Notably, the exhibition also includes 15 military-issue watches, each bearing a unit insignia on the dial, in perhaps its most intriguing section. Rarely seen since they are only available to members of the individual air force and navy units, such watches reflect the fact that the Schaffhausen watchmaker is the sole official supplier of watches to the US Navy and Marine Corps. As a result, IWC has created watches for some 350 squadrons, includin...

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Hands On: Cartier Santos-Dumont “Lacquered Case” SJX Watches
Cartier Santos-Dumont “Lacquered Case” Originally Oct 10, 2022

Hands On: Cartier Santos-Dumont “Lacquered Case”

Originally conceived as a pilot’s watch when it was created over a century ago – as one of the first-ever wristwatches in fact – the Santos is not even remotely sporty in the modern sense of the term. Instead the Santos is an elegant watch that is quintessential Cartier. Earlier this year, the Parisian jeweller recently gave its trademark square watch a bold makeover when it debuted the Santos-Dumont Large Model Lacquered Case. Featuring a bezel and case covered in lacquer, the new Santos-Dumont was unexpected and certainly one of the most intriguing iterations of the models to date, yet it easily feels like quintessential Cartier. The steel version with black lacquer Initial thoughts The lacquered Santos-Dumont is an achievement given that the original is so established, perhaps the bestselling square watch in history. Though the case is inspired by a vintage Santos with a lacquered bezel dating from the 1920s, the new Santos-Dumont still feels satisfyingly original. It obviously reimagines a familiar design, one so familiar it might have even become tired, but manages to translates it into something entirely different. A pair of vintage Santos watches from around 1910, both part of the Cartier Collection In fact, the lacquered Santos-Dumont stands apart not only from earlier Santos models but also the competition. While brightly-coloured dials are now common for dress watches, the same cannot be said of the case. As a result, this is one of the most interesti...

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