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What’s It Like To Get Your Grail Watch And Live With It? The Story Of My Louis Cartier Tank Quill & Pad
Cartier Tank Oct 26, 2024

What’s It Like To Get Your Grail Watch And Live With It? The Story Of My Louis Cartier Tank

A grail watch can be pretty much anything. But one thing a grail watch always is is personal. Very personal. Martin Green was introduced to his personal grail watch by a close friend who had recently treated himself to a new watch: a pre-Collection Privée Cartier Paris Louis Cartier Tank in platinum. Here's the story of how Martin got his grail.

First Look – The New Nomos Orion Neomatik and Tangente Neomatik Doré Editions Monochrome
Nomos Orion Neomatik Oct 17, 2024

First Look – The New Nomos Orion Neomatik and Tangente Neomatik Doré Editions

Sometimes, you don’t necessarily need to reinvent the wheel to make something appealing. Sometimes, a simple twist can result in an appealing new version of a known watch. Sometimes, keeping things classic is the best. Well, this is exactly what Nomos, the Glashutte-based watchmaker with a Bauhaus twist, has decided to do by introducing two […]

Fears and Garrick Reunite for a Second Collaboration, with an Assist from Collective Horology Worn & Wound
Garrick Oct 16, 2024

Fears and Garrick Reunite for a Second Collaboration, with an Assist from Collective Horology

Anyone else have a watch that you look forward to seeing on the wrist of someone else? I think if you’ve been part of this community long enough, it’s almost a certainty. Invariably a friend or colleague will own something that you genuinely look forward to seeing – that watch you hope they will decide to bring to the regular meetup that always impresses. A watch that easily slides into that somewhat niche category for me is the Fears Garrick, a limited edition collaborative effort between the two British brands that first appeared in 2022. Asher Rapkin, a co-founder of Collective, is one of the lucky owners of this watch, and whenever I run into him, be it in Switzerland for a trade show or one of our Windup Watch Fairs, I always hope he’ll have picked this watch out of the box today. It’s just such a cool concept, and a watch that’s genuinely pretty rare, so an opportunity to see it in person is kind of a special thing.  Well, the number of these watches out in the wild is about to increase just a little bit with today’s announcement of the Fears Garrick Salmon for Collective limited edition. Only five of these will be made, and as the name of the watch would suggest, this run is distinguished by a beautiful salmon dial, replacing the crisp white of the prior version. Other than that, it’s very much the same watch, which is a great thing in my opinion, as it fuses together the absolute best of two of the most interesting British watch brands.  Those att...

Hand Engraved and Unique, the MB&F; LM Split Escapement “Eddy Jaquet” SJX Watches
MB&F; Oct 16, 2024

Hand Engraved and Unique, the MB&F; LM Split Escapement “Eddy Jaquet”

MB&F; is well known for its ability to consistently produce timepieces that are as much sculpture as technical marvels. In its latest collaboration, MB&F; leans heavily on the artisanal side of watchmaking, with a dose of literary influence. Executed by the namesake master engraver, the MB&F; Legacy Machine Split Escapement “Eddy Jaquet” is a limited series of eight unique pieces, each depicting a scene from famous novels, ranging from The Three Musketeers to Moby Dick. Initial thoughts The LM SE “Eddy Jaquet” is arguably a true, multifaceted work of art that just happens to be wearable. Mr Jaquet’s work is amongst the best, and the LM SE happens to be a perfect canvas for it thanks to the particular set up of the dial that leaves practically the entire dial disc free for engraving. Making such an ornate watch usually requires compromise in terms of time telling, with watchmakers often favouring an expansive decorated dial over prominent hands. The LM SE somehow manages to keep all of its sub-dials, along with the LM’s trademark exposed balance. These elements do not take away from the centrepiece, which is the engraved dial plate. The elaborate execution of the LM SE comes at a hefty price, CHF158,000, which is almost double the cost of a standard LM SE. A quiet master engraver While not a widely recognised name, Eddy Jaquet was actually one of the original “friends” of MB&F; since the brand’s early days. Back in 2011, he hand-engraved the names of Kari Vout...

A New, Smaller, and Even More Advanced Dive Watch from SēL Worn & Wound
Oct 11, 2024

A New, Smaller, and Even More Advanced Dive Watch from SēL

Arizona’s SēL Instruments have been making, literally, bomb proof watches since 2017. The term overengineered is often thrown around in watchmaking, but no other brand quite embodies this term the way SēL Instruments does. Not only do they engineer their watches from scratch, but they also engineer the equipment to make them, as well as the tools to test them. They even reinvented the watch bracelet with an ingenious clasp system called the Wavlock. According to the brand, their watches appeal to many in the armed forces, police, EMTs, or anyone that lives and works in the harshest environments on earth. You can tell these watches were made by someone that never skips leg days, though just like Adrew McLean’s oversize quads, these watches have always been quite large. That is, until now. Introducing the new OmniDiver Xos 42, a smaller, much more wearable version of their signature OmniDiver. That said, they did not just shrink it. Their focus is on a trifecta feature set for extreme environmental protection in a smaller 42mm case: impact resistance, water resistance, and magnetic resistance.  The original OmniDiver has a water-resistance rating of 6,100 meters, but the new Xos 42 is still no slouch at 2,000 meters. What is even more impressive is that the new one is only 13.7mm thick. To make that happen, they needed to add new Teflon bearings to their already incredibly good ball-bearing bezel bezel assembly. They needed to strengthen their screw-down crown and inv...