Deployant
Review: Jaquet Droz Lady 8 Petite Mother-of-Pearl
We take a close look at the Jaquet Droz Lady 8 Petite Mother-of-Pearl in this in-depth review and reveals its charms with our Ladies View column.
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Deployant
We take a close look at the Jaquet Droz Lady 8 Petite Mother-of-Pearl in this in-depth review and reveals its charms with our Ladies View column.
SJX Watches
Just a few months after the G-Shock 5000-series in titanium was unveiled, Casio has announced the G-Shock GMW-B5000TCM-1, which is essentially the same but with an unusual, laser-engraved camouflage pattern on the case and bracelet. The pattern is achieved by varying the size of the pixels that make up the camouflage motif; three different pixel sizes are engraved to create shading of the camouflage. The rest of the watch is identical to the standard titanium model, which means a sapphire crystal, black screen and gold accents. The case is in lightweight titanium case and bracelet – coated in black diamond-like carbon (DLC) – weighing just 110g in total. (Editor’s note: I handled one just last week and it’s a cool-looking watch that light on the wrist, but the price is pretty steep for what it is, though it’s probably worth the premium just for the cool factor.) Also announced at the same time is the G-Shock MTG-B1000DCM-1A, which has the same engraved camouflage pattern, except on the steel case and bracelet that have a black ion-plated (IP) coating. G-Shock MTG-B1000DCM-1A Key facts and price G-Shock “Full Titanium” in camouflage print Ref. GMW-B5000TCM-1JR Diameter: 43.2mm Height: 13mm Material: Titanium engraved with camouflage pattern and coated with DLC Water resistance: 200m Movement: Electronic Functions: Multi-function electronic with Bluetooth connectivity Winding: Solar-powered Power reserve: 22 months Strap: Titanium bracelet Limited edit...
SJX Watches
After several weeks of negotiations, LVMH has sealed the deal to buy Tiffany & Co. in a US$16.2 billion, all-cash deal. Despite several years of listless growth and a declining share price – though its current management was in a midst of engineering a turnaround – Tiffany & Co. is the biggest acquisition ever in the luxury goods industry. The French luxury conglomerate, which owns Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior, is paying US$135 a share, about 35% above the last traded price before news of the takeover broke. With the acquisition of the storied American jeweller, LVMH strengthens its presence in the “hard” luxury business of jewellery and watches, a segment traditionally dominated by its Swiss rival Richemont, the owner of Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and most recently, Buccellati. The addition of Tiffany’s to its 75-strong stable of brands, which includes watchmakers like Hublot and TAG Heuer, will also help LVMH grow its presence in China and the United States, where the jeweller’s baubles are popular. And the deal also means Tiffany’s well regarded chief executive, Alessandro Bogliolo, returns to LVMH, where he was once the chief operating officer at Bulgari.
Time+Tide
We’ve all heard of a wrist flex, but what about an invitation flex … is that a thing? Well, if it wasn’t before, it is now, because hip hop heavyweight, music producer and entrepreneur Jay-Z has gone and sent out Rolex’s eponymous Daytona as VIP invitation gifts to his inaugural Shawn Carter Foundation Gala. In … ContinuedThe post #JayDay: Jay-Z just used a bunch of solid gold Rolex Daytonas as VIP invitations appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A few of the most interesting lots from this season's Hong Kong sales.
Time+Tide
We’ve said it before, but if you ask a watch geek their thoughts on the humble G-Shock, chances are they’ll give it the tick of approval. Because when it comes to the G-Shock, not only are they incredibly robust watches that are basically bulletproof, but they also exist beyond the horizon of haute horology and … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – Albert’s rainbow G-Shock appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Hublot’s Spirit of Big Bang collection is unquestionably one of the most varied and nuanced in the Swiss watchmaker’s catalogue. The quintessentially tonneau-shaped timepiece, which has only been around since 2014, has spawned quite a few different iterations, in a number of different sizes and materials, since its inception. In fact, as of right now, … ContinuedThe post 3 Hublot Spirit of Big Bangs for 3 different occasions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A few of our favorite, less conspicuous lots from auction season.
SJX Watches
The latest figures from trade body Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FH) show a massive fall in Swiss watch exports to Hong Kong, a statistic that is proxy for sales of luxury watches. According to the FH numbers for the month of October 2019, exports to Hong Kong fell 29.7% to 191.3m Swiss francs. This comes after a more measured, 4.6% drop in September. Exports to Hong Hong have now fallen below those to China, which rose 10.8% to 218.4m francs. Enjoying a 11.2% rise to 227.5m francs is the United States, which was the largest market for Swiss watches in October. For the year to date, Hong Kong remains the world’s largest market for Swiss watches, though the gap between it and the second-placed United States is falling. Hong Kong imported 2.26 billion francs of Swiss watches in the year to date – a fall of 8.8% compared to the same period las year – compared to 1.97 billion francs for the United States. Pedder Street in Hong Kong’s Central business district, ordinarily a shopping paradise. Photo – Hong Kong Tourism Board The drop in watch exports to the city confirm industry talk that the luxury goods has been hard hit by the six months of protests that have roiled Hong Kong. Shops located in the worst affected areas can only stay open for a fraction of a business day, or not at all on some days. Several executives from both watch brands and retailers in the territory have cited consecutive, month-on-month drops in store sales that reach into the double d...
Hodinkee
Look at how deep we've gone.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: The Rolex Milgauss is a distinctly underrated timepiece. In fact, it may be one of the most forgotten-about models in Rolex’s current Professional line-up. And many of us thought leading up to Baselworld this year that it may well be discontinued, due to Rolex parading the Milgauss all over their social platforms and … ContinuedThe post Rediscovering the Rolex Milgauss Z-Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
As much as it pains me to say it, for most people out there, spending anything more than a few hundred dollars for a wristwatch is a faintly absurd idea. However – as I’m sure most people reading this will agree – once you get bitten by the particularly costly watch bug, all of a … ContinuedThe post 3 great steel sports watches for under $3K appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Phillips Game Changers is a compact auction featuring 74 lots, among them the usual array of rare, fine, and attractive Rolex and Patek Philippe models. But there are a few watches in this auction that are notable for reasons outside of the fact that they fine, rare, attractive, and made by certain brands. And it is these watches that Elizabeth Doerr highlights here. Oh, and spoiler: there are indeed two Rolex models among them, but you’ll see why.
WatchAdvice
The future of watchmaking for Zenith can be narrowed down to one word: Defy. The Defy collection started with the release of the Defy El Primero 21 back in 2017, which was the quite amazing hundredth-of-a-second chronograph. This was followed by the first-generation Defy Lab (known now as Defy Inventor), which Zenith states is the world’s most accurate watch with its new ground-breaking monocrystalline silicon oscillator. Luckily enough, we had a chance to review the Zenith Defy Inventor as well, which you can check out here. Zenith has added a mini collection of three ceramic models to the Defy Classic range. The models in the Defy Classic Collection has a three-hand plus date feature and comes in three colour variations: White ceramic, Black ceramic and Blue ceramic. The piece we have on our hands today is the elegant Defy Classic Blue Ceramic. Having a colour outside of the typical white and black in a ceramic, which is the norm, definitely brings something different to the table. Although the colour blue may have its limitations with what it can be worn with, compared to all black and white ceramic watches. Despite this limitation, the blue ceramic certainly is an eye-catcher when on the wrist. Like the other two models in the Zenith Defy Classic Ceramic range, the blue ceramic comes with its own matching blue rubber strap. Sometimes having too much of the same colour throughout the watch can be too “in your face” as well. The blue used by Zenith for this cera...
Time+Tide
MEET THE ENABLER: Defending the indefensible is a tiresome but necessary business. Obviously, we understand that you’ve found a new must-have watch to add to your collection (congratulations!). But the next step, making it happen, may not always fly with non-believers whose reactions will likely range from horror to derision to divorce. That’s where The … ContinuedThe post How to justify your watch purchases to your partner, a new series, starting with ‘The Heirloom Defence’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Question: What do David Gandy, Gerard Butler, Eric Bana, Bradley Cooper and Adrien Brody all have in common? Answer: They’ve all been spotted wearing a Bulgari Octo. And apart from being five exceedingly good-looking dudes, they’re all rather tall gents. So naturally, our fearless leader Andrew McUtchen pondered, “What would this beefcake collective … ContinuedThe post That time we made a fantasy basketball team out of celebs who wear the Bulgari Octo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Only Watch 2019 is the biggest watch auction ever – and it was the most exciting sale in a notably quiet Geneva auction season – with 50 lots selling for 38.59m Swiss francs. The last Only Watch auction in 2017 raised a mere 9.29m francs in comparison. And of course 31m francs of that came from just one watch, the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime in steel, which went to a determined buyer from Asia bidding via telephone with Wei-Ting Jud of Christie’s London. Presided over by Christie’s jewellery department head Rahul Kadakia, the best watch auctioneer who is not a watch specialist, the saleroom in Geneva’s Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues was jam-packed, so full even Audemars Piguet chief executive Francois-Henri Bennahmias had to stand. And there was even a famous face in attendance, or at least in the same building – former Thai prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra, who is a a known watch collector, was spotted in the lobby of the hotel. Luc Pettavino, who founded only watch after his late son was stricken by Duchenne muscular dystrophy, the very disease that Only Watch raises funds to research a cure. Photo – Alex Teuscher Photography Though the Patek Philippe accounted for most of the sale proceeds – which all go to a medical charity – the other 49 lots in the auction still sold for an average of 155,000 Swiss francs, which is well above the average for a watch auction. The Antiquorum watch auction that took place a day later, for instance, averaged only...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: When it comes to making timepieces with an affiliation to the full-throttle world of motorsport, few watchmakers have more success than TAG Heuer. Take this TAG Heuer Autavia Jo Siffert Collector’s Edition for instance. Here is a wristwatch that faithfully pays homage to the original Heuer Autavia 1163T or, as it’s more commonly … ContinuedThe post Remembering the TAG Heuer Autavia Jo Siffert Collector’s Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
With the Double Signed theme auction out of the way, here are a few highlights from Phillips’ Geneva watch auction, including a Lange Zeitwerk that might be a value buy, and a steel Rolex Day-Date prototype. Lot 145 – Lange Zeitwerk in rose gold The Zeitwerk is unquestionably a modern classic – notably, it is probably the most reliable digital display watch on the market – and is relatively good value on the secondary market, selling for a chunk off retail. This example is in rose gold, and is complete with all boxes and paperwork. It was first sold in 2011, and obviously wasn’t worn much sine then. The estimate is just 20,000-40,000 Swiss francs. Lot 179 – Patek Philippe ref. 1463 in steel One of the top lots in the sale, this is a ref. 1463 “Tasti Tondi”, an early water-resistant chronograph by Patek Philippe. But this is in steel, of which only 67 are known, with a two-tone dial, furthering reducing the number known to just 17. The watch is in excellent condition, with a sharply preserved case and original dial, although the dial might have been cleaned in the distant past. The estimate is 300,000-600,000 francs. Lot 209 – Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in yellow gold The ref. 1518 is a landmark, being the first serially produced chronograph with perpetual calendar. This is a good example of the ref. 1518, almost the quintessential version of the model with a yellow gold case. It is clean and in good condition, albeit showing a little bit of age on the dial,...
Time+Tide
How did I accidentally become a vintage watch guy? Partly, I blame the fact that I’ve got the spindly wrists of a teenage girl. That meant I naturally gravitated towards smaller dials. But I also put it down to the tawdry state of my finances. When I first started to get into watches - before the retro … ContinuedThe post The 3 mistakes I made buying a vintage watch, my cautionary tale appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Unless you’ve been in hibernation for the last five years, or you’ve had a complete moratorium on any type of connection to the Internet, chances are you’ve heard about Joe Rogan and his podcast. In fact, the comedian and former host of Fear Factor has such a large reach on the interwebs that his podcast … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Joe Rogan talks watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Going on the results of the past auctions, Elizabeth Doerr picks a few clear top contenders for the 2019 Only Watch auction, starting with that unique-piece Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime in stainless steel.
Time+Tide
It’s been a pretty busy year for boutique Swiss watchmaker H. Moser & Cie, from the introduction of several new models at this year’s SIHH, right through to the arresting Pioneer Dual Window Perpetual Calendar, which was unveiled just a few short months ago. The eccentric Swiss marque isn’t done with the 2019 new releases, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept Aventurine appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: I’m sure that at one point or another you’ve been wearing your favourite watch and thought, “This is definitely ‘gram’ worthy”. But taking the perfect wrist shot is by no means a simple task. In fact, it’s an art form that can be exceedingly complicated and multifaceted. Luckily for us, however, back in … ContinuedThe post HOW TO: Take the perfect Instagram wristshot appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
With Only Watch 2019 now just a few short days away, there’s a veritable smorgasbord of gorgeous piece-unique watches and timekeeping devices heading to the auction block. In fact, there are 50 watches in total taking part in this year’s charity auction, with all funds raised going to the research of Duchenne muscular dystrophy. And … ContinuedThe post High Rollers – 3 of the most expensive timepieces at Only Watch 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
What does the watchfam really mean when referencing the "beater" watch? Is it an actually sub-genre to consider within your collection? Kaz and Mike talk about the concept of a beater watch and run through a few of the best options to shoot for if you're looking for a beater.
SJX Watches
Shortly before A. Lange & Söhne launched the Odysseus Datomatic, its chief executive Wilhelm Schmid was in Singapore to officially reopen its revamped boutique. But perhaps more importantly, he was available to discuss the Odysseus, which I did. In the articulate and frank manner that is his style, Mr Schmid outlined the rationale behind the Odysseus, how it came to be, and drops a few hints as to where it’s going. Read what he had to say below. The interview was edited for clarity and length. You have established Lange’s reputation for watches of high quality; quality that no one disputes. Now you’re taking the next step into a different segment. What’s the rationale behind this? We have not changed our fine watchmaking, [but we had to decide:] do we answer the question that has been raised by many customers over many years? If you do something like that, you have to be unique, you have to be different, and it has to be of some interest for the customer. We rather not provide an answer than provide the wrong answer. So it took us a long time to find the face and find the design. And then after we created the idea, [we had to create] something which will be recognisable within this sort of design, [with] the push buttons, the day-date complications. Then, how can we use that to create a family? It’s always easy to come up with one watch. It’s often more difficult if you want to have a recognisable face that can have different iterations and complications lat...
Revolution
Patek Philippe unveils a unique new Calatrava Weekly Calendar for those who have their upcoming year clearly in view.
Time+Tide
It’s fair to say that Seiko has dropped quite a few limited edition anniversary timepieces in 2019, and you definitely could’ve been mistaken for thinking that surely the Japanese watchmaker had nothing left in their product arsenal … and then they released this – the Seiko 1969 Quartz Astron 50th Anniversary Limited Edition. As the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko 1969 Quartz Astron 50th Anniversary Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Breguet’s contribution to the most recent Only Watch auction in 2017 was a unique, enlarged version of its inventive in-line perpetual calendar that had the calendar indications arranged in a column vertically across the dial. Though clever and unusual, the watch was probably too esoteric and classical for current tastes, and it sold for 110,000 Swiss francs, just 10% above the high estimate, reputedly to a discerning collector in Australia. This year’s upcoming Only Watch, however, includes a very different Breguet that should sell for a multiple of its estimate. The Type 20 for Only Watch 2019 is essentially a spot-on replica of the two-register aviator’s chronograph Breguet supplied to the French military from the mid 1950s – exactly the type of watch that is desirable now. Specifically, it’s a remake of the first generation Type 20, which was marked “5101/54” on the case back, denoting the order number, “5101”, and the year of 1954. More specifically, it’s based on the Type 20 made for the French air force, distinguished by equal-sized sub-dials; watches for the naval air arm had oversized minute counters. Named after the French military specification for pilot’s chronographs, itself derived from the Second World War German air force chronograph design, the original Type 20s were produced by a variety of watchmakers, including Vixa, Dodane, and Auricoste. Breguet examples, however, are the most valuable. Note that “Type XX” refers to the same...
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