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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Owner’s Review: the Seiko Prospex Land GMT SPB411 Worn & Wound
Seiko Prospex Land GMT SPB411 Dec 6, 2024

Owner’s Review: the Seiko Prospex Land GMT SPB411

Seiko is no stranger to releasing watches that immediately capture the attention of enthusiasts. Still, sometimes, due to the frequent release schedule, a release slips through the cracks. The Seiko Prospex Land GMT SPB411 is one such piece. While it might not have accumulated the same level of buzz as some of Seiko’s other releases in the last year or so, this reissue of the iconic 1968 Navigator Timer is a near 1:1 homage to the past, but with enough modern upgrades to make it highly relevant today. I’ll admit that when it came out, I thought it wasn’t bad but I easily overlooked it for some reason or another. Then, I happened to be visiting a local watch boutique, and they took me to the back to show me a few fun things they had sitting in the safe. Low and behold, the SPB411. As soon as I picked it up, I knew it was special. For the price point (we’ll get to that shortly), I thought it was really well done and impressed me more than most Seiko’s I’ve come in contact with. It was also just really good-looking. I love a vintage-inspired design when it’s done really well and since this is a near one-to-one re-issue, Seiko nailed it.  The original Seiko Navigator Timer was a milestone in the brand’s history, being their first GMT with a rotating bezel. It’s a model that remains beloved for its classic sport design and useful complication. The SPB411, though a modern update, channels the same spirit of the 1968 model, with some refined tweaks that appeal ...

Hot Take: The New Nezumi Tonnerre Monochrome Chronograph Fratello
Dec 6, 2024

Hot Take: The New Nezumi Tonnerre Monochrome Chronograph

Stockholm-based Nezumi Studios has been in business since 2011 and making affordable, traditionally designed watches since 2015. The focus is on sporty pieces, such as divers, GMTs, chronographs, and field watches. Now a new variant enters the collection. The Tonnerre Monochrome chronograph, with its classic color scheme, is sure to be a hit. Nezumi’s watches […] Visit Hot Take: The New Nezumi Tonnerre Monochrome Chronograph to read the full article.

Introducing – The new Carbon Edition of the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon SR_A by Samuel Ross Monochrome
Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon SR_A Dec 6, 2024

Introducing – The new Carbon Edition of the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon SR_A by Samuel Ross

Artist and designer Samuel Ross is back at work with Hublot. A tradition for the brand over its 44 years of existence, Hublot has collaborated with many contemporary artists like Richard Orlinski, Maxime-Plescia-Buchi, Murakami and Daniel Arsham. Marking the third time the Swiss brand has worked with Samuel Ross, both parties bring back the bold, […]

Event Report: Celebrating Breitling’s 140th Anniversary At The Brand’s Boutique In The Hague Fratello
Breitling s 140th Anniversary Dec 6, 2024

Event Report: Celebrating Breitling’s 140th Anniversary At The Brand’s Boutique In The Hague

Last week, we organized an evening with Breitling at the brand’s impressive boutique in our hometown of The Hague, Netherlands. We invited a fairly large group of Fratelli to look at the current Breitling collection. But Fred Mandelbaum, our special guest, was also there, and he brought part of his extensive vintage Breitling collection. So […] Visit Event Report: Celebrating Breitling’s 140th Anniversary At The Brand’s Boutique In The Hague to read the full article.

Mühle Glashütte Introduces The New Sportivo Line Fratello
Mühle Glashütte Dec 5, 2024

Mühle Glashütte Introduces The New Sportivo Line

Mühle Glashütte is known for its sporty and reliable timepieces. For 2024, the brand has big news with a brand-new line of watches. The Sportivo collection consists of three models made for sports, the office, and everywhere else. We’ll provide a brief overview of each release. The Mühle Glashütte Sportivo line includes a chronograph, GMT, […] Visit Mühle Glashütte Introduces The New Sportivo Line to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Spinnaker Croft 42 Skeleton Automatic Fratello
Rado Captain Cook Dec 5, 2024

Hands-On With The Spinnaker Croft 42 Skeleton Automatic

When the Spinnaker Croft 42 Skeleton Automatic landed on my desk, it instantly reminded me of two watches. The first was the skeletonized Rado Captain Cook in all its various guises. In all fairness, that’s not a bad visual reference. The second one was a little closer to home, though. In the 1990s, my brother […] Visit Hands-On With The Spinnaker Croft 42 Skeleton Automatic to read the full article.

In-Depth – The David Candaux DC1 Titanium is Why We Love Independent Horology Monochrome
Dec 5, 2024

In-Depth – The David Candaux DC1 Titanium is Why We Love Independent Horology

David Candaux, an independent watchmaker and member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) since 2019, is regarded as one of the most talented creators in contemporary horology. To understand and appreciate his work, it is important to remember his professional journey and the philosophy that infuses his timepieces with unique character, and the […]

First Look – Warm new Bronze Cases for the Baltic Hermétique Tourer Monochrome
Baltic Hermétique Tourer Founded just Dec 5, 2024

First Look – Warm new Bronze Cases for the Baltic Hermétique Tourer

Founded just eight years ago by Etienne Malec, Baltic has gone from strength to strength with its attractive designs. Relying on outsourced movements assembled in France, Baltic sells its watches directly online at genuinely competitive prices. Baltic’s neo-vintage models are particularly successful, including the Hermétique Tourer, a field watch with compact dimensions and a surprising […]

Baltic Introduces Bronze Versions of the Hermetique Worn & Wound
Baltic Introduces Bronze Versions Dec 5, 2024

Baltic Introduces Bronze Versions of the Hermetique

I have had a love-hate relationship with bronze-cased watches for years. I truly appreciate how the metal ages; there is nothing quite like a beautifully patinated watch just before it turns into a greenish hue. The beauty is that it never quite ages the same for everyone, and if you don’t like the results, a little lemon juice bath can have you start all over. My only issue is that I am a person who perspires quite a bit, and the bronze watches I have owned have been large honking divers. The latter would often transfer some of the patina goodness onto my arm, especially in the summer heat. Our friends from Baltic may have the solution I have been searching for: a non-honking bronze watch! Introducing the Baltic Hermétique Tourer Bronze, essentially a bronze version of their popular new series. As you may already know, Hermétique translates to “hermetic” in English, which means sealed tight. This is fitting for a watch with an impressive water resistance of 150 meters despite its elegant proportions and a thin push-pull crown that is recessed into the case. Another interesting aspect of this watch is that it is made of CuAl8 bronze, an alloy of copper and aluminum, as opposed to CuSn8, which is bronze and tin. The former, known as aluminum gold or gold bronze, is strong, corrosion-resistant, and pale gold in color. It resists tarnishing and corrosion in both air and seawater, withstands oxidation at high temperatures, and shows low reactivity with sulfurous compou...

First Look – The new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M No-Date Titanium & Bronze Gold (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M No-Date Dec 5, 2024

First Look – The new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M No-Date Titanium & Bronze Gold (Incl. Video)

It was only two weeks ago that Omega finally released the long-awaited watch spotted on the wrist of Daniel Craig during the Paris 2024 Olympics, the no-date edition of the emblematic Seamaster Diver 300M. While keeping the technical formula of the classic date Seamaster Diver 300M alive, these new editions – there were two, the […]

Hot Take: The Hamilton PSR 74 - A Faithful New Version Of The Pulsar Cushion Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Dec 5, 2024

Hot Take: The Hamilton PSR 74 - A Faithful New Version Of The Pulsar Cushion

The trend of rereleasing vintage digital watches continues with the new Hamilton PSR 74. During the past several years, Casio, Girard-Perregaux, and Hamilton have led the charge with faithful yet modern renditions of their ’70s digital creations. These watches blend simple displays with retro-futuristic cases and bracelets. The new PSR follows this form but adds […] Visit Hot Take: The Hamilton PSR 74 - A Faithful New Version Of The Pulsar Cushion to read the full article.

Introducing – The SpaceOne Tellurium is back with Black or Blue Titanium Cases Monochrome
Vulcain Dec 5, 2024

Introducing – The SpaceOne Tellurium is back with Black or Blue Titanium Cases

Young collaborative project/brand SpaceOne continues its exploration of watchmaking through a parallel galaxy… Last year, the bold and modern SpaceOne Jumping Hour emerged from the visionary mind of Théo Auffret, a Parisian independent watchmaker crafting intricate timepieces like the Tourbillon Grand Sport and Guillaume Laidet, the man spearheading the revival of Nivada, Excelsior Park and Vulcain. […]

Recap – 100 Years of Citizen, A Splendid Commemorative Pocket Watch and some clues on what to expect in the future Monochrome
Citizen Dec 4, 2024

Recap – 100 Years of Citizen, A Splendid Commemorative Pocket Watch and some clues on what to expect in the future

“Watches made for all citizens.” This is why major Japanese brand Citizen is named as it is. There is a reason behind this international and easy-to-remember name, which goes way beyond just a marketing motto. The brand philosophy can be resumed, and I quote brand manager Yoshihisa Yajima that “no matter who you are or […]

First Look – The New Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Combines Micro-Rotor, Integrated Bracelet and Fair Price Monochrome
Yema Dec 4, 2024

First Look – The New Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Combines Micro-Rotor, Integrated Bracelet and Fair Price

While mostly known for its emblematic range of dive watches, known as the Superman (possibly the most famous French watch), Yema has recently worked hard to expand both its collections and, something truly interesting, its manufacturing capacities – with a strong commitment to bringing back French watchmaking, with in-house developed and assembled movements. One of […]

The Totally Unique Hublot MP-16 Arsham Droplet – A Pocket Watch, Pendant & Clock All In One WatchAdvice
Hublot MP-16 Arsham Droplet – Dec 4, 2024

The Totally Unique Hublot MP-16 Arsham Droplet – A Pocket Watch, Pendant & Clock All In One

This is a review with a difference. Why? Because it isn’t the typical watch you wear on the wrist, Hublot’s unique Arsham Droplet is a pocket watch, desk clock and wearable jewellery all in one! What We Love The totally unique shape It’s Hublot material science at its best! Its versatility as a three-in-one-piece What We Don’t You can’t wear it on your wrist It is not as practical in this day and age The crystal shape can distort the dial in places Overall Score: 8.75 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability/Versatility: 8/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The Arsham Droplet is typically Hublot, even though it doesn’t look like anything else Hublot has produced. Ever. That statement sounds like an oxymoron a little, but if you know Hublot, then you’ll know that they pride themselves on creating pieces that are like no other watch brands out there. Just take a look at their watch collaborations. Orlinski, Sang Bleu, and Murakami to name a few. Or their Manufacture Pieces, like the MP-05 LaFerrari, the MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System, or MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Retrograde. These are all Hublot, and while all very different, all have that distinct Hublot style, embedded with Hublot DNA at their core. One of the main reasons these are all unique is Hublot gives create reign to their designers and collaborators, to infuse as much of them into the pieces as Hublot. To me, I love this. Rather than sticking a logo on an already existing watch with a ne...

Zenith Looks to the Jungle for a Wild New Limited Edition Defy Extreme Worn & Wound
Zenith Looks Dec 3, 2024

Zenith Looks to the Jungle for a Wild New Limited Edition Defy Extreme

One of my favorite pastimes within the world of watch enthusiasm is to tell anyone who will listen that the “Leopard” Rolex Daytona is my favorite version of the storied chronograph. When the Daytona comes up in conversation (and it does, a lot) I’m always ready to share that the intricate gem and diamond set version inspired by leopard prints and favored by Nicolas Cage is my favorite example. This assertion is only half a joke – I really do admire craftsmanship inherent in these watches (which is somewhat uncommon for Rolex) but mostly I like that the watch exists as a transgressive alternative to the norm. And what better way to do that than with a watch inspired by big cats and the jungle? The new Zenith Defy Extreme Jungle, a watch which immediately made me think of my favorite Daytona, knows that there is, in fact, no better way to gently push on the expectations of the typical watch enthusiast.  There’s an important distinction to be made between this new watch from Zenith and the Daytona, and that’s that the Leopard Daytona is, in every way, an outlier in the Daytona collection and for Rolex as a whole. The Zenith Defy Extreme, and the Defy line more generally, are made up almost entirely of outliers. In other words, it’s not actually that strange to see a jungle inspired Defy Extreme when we’ve already seen high concept Defys taking on various themes over the course of many years. This isn’t even the first time Zenith has played with the “jung...