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Two Broke Watch Snobs
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Patek Philippe Ref. 5236P In-line Perpetual Calendar
Patek Philippe introduced a bunch of notable new models this year, including the recent “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater Ref. 5750P. The most notable amongst its accessible complications – accessible in a relative sense – is unquestionably the In-line Perpetual Calendar ref. 5236P, an all-new model with a movement developed from the ground up. The ref. 5236P takes its cues from the “linear” perpetual calendar pocket watches of the 1950s and 1960s, namely the ref. 725 with perpetual calendar only, and the refs. 699, 843, and 844 that also included a minute repeater. The nickname stems from the calendar display within a single, horizontal window under 12 o’clock, which instantly sets such watches apart from conventional calendar displays that rely on multiple sub-dials. A ref. 699 from 1956 with linear calendar and minute repeater This same straight-line calendar display has been reproduced on the ref. 5236P – a substantial feat considering its compact size and relatively large calendar window. It was realised with an all-new calendar mechanism with a cleverly designed display, but one still constructed as a traditional, “grand lever” calendar. Initial thoughts Despite its vintage inspiration, the ref. 5236P looks and feels like a contemporary watch, especially because of its colours and size. In the hand the ref. 5236P is substantial, both in diameter and weight. At 41.3 mm it’s one of the biggest perpetual calendar watches Patek Philippe makes. In...
SJX Watches
Auction Watch: A Pair of Highly Important Pocket Watches
Geneva auction week this year includes Only Watch, perhaps the headline event, but also a slew of other auctions. Over at Phillips, the majority of its Geneva watch auction catalogue comprises wristwatches, but two standouts in the sale are pocket watches, one from an independent watchmaker and the other from an establishment brand. Different as they are, the two are are indeed an epic pair. The Geneva Watch Auction: XIV takes place on November 5 and 7, 2021. Lot 183 – Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch Ref. 768 There are a few reasons the Patek Philippe ref. 768 is intriguing, even though they might not be obvious at a glance. For one, the ref. 798 is truly rare – Patek Philippe has only made a handful of grande sonnerie pocket watches in its history. It incorporates the most challenging complication to execute, the grande et petite sonnerie, which means the watch chimes the time as it passes. And it is a carillon, with three gongs instead of two, so that the quarter is sounded with three notes instead of the typical two. Then there’s the fact that it’s a mid-20th century Patek Philippe, a guarantee of the fine horological quality. The movement was made in 1898, but only cased up more than half a century later in 1953, and subsequently sold close to a decade after that. This example is interesting because it has a single-lidded back that sports an extra-large, relief-engraved Calatrava cross on a frosted base. According to Phillips the oversized logo ...
SJX Watches
Horizon Watches Debuts with the Horizon Diver
The latest crowdfunded maker of affordable dive watches, Horizon Watches was founded by a veteran of the micro-brand scene, Fred Bekher, a designer who has penned dozens of watches for horological startups. Mr Bekher’s first design for his own brand is the Nautilus, a dive watch with an Art Deco-meets-steampunk aesthetic. Though the model name sounds like something else, it takes inspiration from literature, specifically the submariner commanded by Caption Nemo from Jules Verne’s Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea. “While I was reading [the novel] as a child, I would imagine how the Nautilus looked like”, Mr Bekher says of his love for sci-fi and the steampunk world of Verne’s works. Initial thoughts The model name aside, the Nautilus is an original design – it manages not to look like anything else – which is an achievement in the space of affordable dive watches. It’s also thought in form, something that’s evident in the dial and case construction, notable for a watch that starts at US$350. And the design is appealing, most notably the Art Deco font and the smartly-disguised date. And smart it is: the date window is sized identically to the hour markers, while the date disc is entirely “lumed”, so it glows just like an hour marker. That said, some details do inevitably call to mind other, more famous dive watches, namely the Breguet Marine in terms of the dial and the Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms for the bezel, but as a whole the Nautilus passes ...
SJX Watches
Highlights: F. P. Journe at the Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction
F.P. Journe has swiftly become one of the most desirable independent watch brands, resulting in an ever growing selection on offer at auction. Perhaps the biggest single offering to date comes by way of Sotheby’s, which has amassed a 13-piece lineup of F.P. Journe watches for its upcoming Important Watches sale that takes place in Hong Kong on October 13, 2021. We round up eight of the most notable, a selection that naturally includes a Tourbillon Souverain “Souscription”, as well as several limited editions, ranging from Ruthenium to a Tokyo-boutique special. The full catalogue and registration to bid are available on Sothebys.com. Lot 2085: Octa Réserve de Marche with brass movement Originally the entry-level model for the brand, the Octa Réserve de Marche is today a stealth watch of sorts since it is still a simple watch, but an unusually valuable one. Launched in 2001, the Octa Réserve was part of the original trio of watches launched by Francois-Paul Journe, coming after the tourbillon and Resonance. Despite being the brand’s entry-level wristwatch at the time, it still boasted a proprietary movement with an impressive five-day power reserve, though the running time was originally envision was eight days, hence the “Octa” moniker. The cal. 1300 developed for the Octa Réserve would then go on to be the base movement for the entire Octa collection. The best part of the Octa Reserve is its asymmetric dial. Showing the time, date and power reserve, the d...
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Five Diver Watches under $5000 - Top 5 Dive Watches below $5000 Zodiac, Doxa, Omega, Ming, Longines
SJX Watches
Auctions: Only Watch 2021 – November 6, Geneva
A biennial charity watch auction that raises money for medical research, Only Watch has just announced the 2021 event takes place in Geneva on November 6, along with most of the 53 unique timepieces that will go under the hammer. Attended by the great and the good of Swiss watchmaking, Only Watch auctions have long enjoyed the support of leading watchmakers who exercise their best efforts to create one-off timepieces that are sold to support research into a cure for Duchenne muscular dystrophy. Only Watch was founded by Luc Pettavino, whose late son Paul was stricken by the illness. Mr Pettavino’s unfailing dedication to both Only Watch and his son’s memory has raised over €70 million to date. Luc Pettavino at Only Watch 2019 Many of the unique timepieces created for the event are landmarks in themselves, explaining why Only Watch has traditionally been a venue for record-setting prices, most notably the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A in steel that sold for CHF31 million in 2019. Highlights this year include a Tudor Black Bay GMT in an aged-gunmetal finish, possibly the very last Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 15202 (a model that will be discontinued at year’s end), and the imaginative F.P. Journe “Francis Ford Coppola”. And what will likely be the most valuable lot in the auction is not a wristwatch, but instead the Patek Philippe desk clock ref. 27001M-001 inspired by a timekeeper made for automobile tycoon James Ward Packard in 1923. We will c...
Revolution
Is the SINN U50 the Best Desk Diver for Your Buck?
Revolution takes the new 41mm German Submarine Steel SINN U50 for a spin to find out if it is arguably one of the better desk divers for your buck.
Quill & Pad
De Bethune DB28GS Yellow Submarine: Harnessing The Power Of Fire
As well as its sensational heat-induced colors, the magic of the De Bethune DB28GS Yellow Submarine is the mechanical dynamo system built into the movement to power four LED lights to illuminate the dial underwater or in the dark. Joshua Munchow takes a deep dive into what makes this watch so special, starting with what's on fire.
Revolution
In Conversation with the One & Only, Santa Laura
Wei Koh digs deep into the subject of the passion of watch collecting with the man behind the universally recognized Instagram handle, Santa Laura.
Quill & Pad
Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE: Change Is Round
With the Chronomètre FB 2RE, Ferdinand Berthoud takes a very big step in the right direction with a more traditional round case and a movement that features a remontoir d'egalite alongside a chain-and-fusée assembly. And the finishing cannot be described as anything other than simply sublime.
Video
VAER D5 Pacific USA Diver Automatic 200m Watch Assembled In America Omega Seamaster 300 Homage
Revolution
Modern Classic: The Mk1 Tudor Black Bay
The Tudor Heritage Black Bay has been a runaway success since its introduction in 2012, and takes inspiration from vintage Submariner watches from the 50s, 60s and 70s.
SJX Watches
Atelier de Chronométrie Introduces the AdC #8 Split-Seconds Chronograph
Barcelona-based Atelier de Chronométrie made a name for itself with its beautifully crafted watches that capture the grace of 1940s timepieces. But all of its work so far has centred on time-only watches, all powered by heavily decorated vintage Omega movements. But now the AdC #8 Split-Seconds Chronograph takes things to a whole new level. Retaining the elegant feel of the brand’s earlier creations, the AdC #8 is powered by a reworked movement that started out as a Venus 185 but completely reworked by Atelier de Chronométrie, with a substantial number of parts made from scratch. Commissioned by an American collector, the AdC #8 is largely hand made, with everything hand finished to a superlative, artisanal standard, which is why it took took two years to complete. Initial thoughts I first found out about this watch late last year, and it sounded promising given Atelier de Chronométrie’s track record in design and movement finishing. Though I am going by photos, the finished product definitely lives up to expectations, and then some. Everything about it is just done extremely well, and while it costs a lot of money, the AdC #8 is compellingly and reasonably priced as such things go. Having closely examined Atelier de Chronométrie’s earlier watches, the AdC #8 will undoubtedly have the same feel – visually similar to a vintage watch but much more solid in the hand thanks to a more robust, modern case. A little under 40 mm in diameter, the AdC #8 has the proporti...
Quill & Pad
Attending An Auction With The Intent To Buy – And What Happened Next – Reprise
Vintage watches are becoming more and more of a subject in our little world of ticks and tocks. So Elizabeth Doerr set out for Frankfurt very early one Saturday morning to meet up with an old acquaintance, vintage watch dealer Ron Geweniger, to attend the Dr. Crott auction and learn a bit of what goes on behind the bidding.
SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces the Luminor Luna Rossa Collection
Back in January, Panerai unveiled the Luna Rossa Challenger Submersible Carbotech, which kicked off the watchmaker’s official sponsorship of Luna Rossa, the challenger of the 36th America’s Cup that takes place in 2021. And now the brand has introduced three Luminor watches – the Luna Rossa Regatta (PAM01038), the Luna Rossa Chrono Flyback (PAM01037), and the Luna Rossa GMT (PAM01036) – dedicated to the sailing syndicate, which has fellow Italian brands Prada and Pirelli as its main sponsors. Only just unveiled at the Salón Internacional Alta Relojería (SIAR) watch fair in Mexico City, the three watches are characterised by high tech materials that also used in Luna Rossa. The watches share the same monochromatic palette, with a distinctive “sandwich dial” made up of a lower dial plate with luminous paint for the numerals that’s capped with an upper dial plate covered in sailcloth from Luna Rossa. Though each use different case materials, they all share the same titanium case back engraved with the Luna Rossa and the team logo. Luminor Luna Rossa Regatta (PAM01038) A dedicated yachting chronograph, the Luminor Luna Rossa Regatta is the flagship model of the range. It has a 47mm case in Carbotech, a proprietary carbon fibre-reinforced polymer, making it massive but lightweight. First introduced in 2015, the material is produced by layering sheets of carbon with a polymer resin in between to create a light and strong composite with a woodgrain appearance. ...
Revolution
Panerai at Harrods
Panerai takes over the Harrods Fine Watch Room with a giant octopus tentacle and the Panerai Submersible Chrono Guillaume Néry Edition PAM00982.
Video
Is Omega's New Seamaster 300 a Hit or a Flop? (2021, Bronze Gold)
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Breitling Navitimer 1 Airline Editions
Breitling has just announced three retro takes on their iconic pilot’s watch - the mighty Navitimer - that evoke the golden age of jet travel. The Airline Editions capsule collection consists of tributes to three of the great airlines, Pan Am, Swissair and TWA. Each airline is the subject of nostalgic homage, in the form … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Breitling Navitimer 1 Airline Editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Panerai’s new America’s Cup partnership and the stealthy Submersible Luna Rossa
2019 is shaping up to be the year of the Submersible for Panerai, with the brand hitting hard with a collection full of their most modern takes on the dive watch. And one of the coolest is the Submersible Luna Rossa, a very cool carbon fibre number made to honour their brand new partnership with … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Panerai’s new America’s Cup partnership and the stealthy Submersible Luna Rossa appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Putting the Luminor Submersible Through Its Paces in the Moroccan Wilderness
Revolution takes a Panerai Luminor Submersible on an extreme adventure through the Moroccan wilderness.
Revolution
The Tudor MilSub: Part I
Quickly becoming one of the most collectible of military wristwatches, Revolution takes a two-part look at the development of the Tudor military Submariner. In the first chapter of this story we take a look at the pivotal role of the French National Navy.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Panerai 2017 collection overview and our 3 favourites *post may contain traces of bronze*
Panerai kicked off 2017 with a bang. The brand that artfully bolts together ‘Italian design and Swiss precision’ showed a cohesive range with a strong material focus at SIHH in January. At the collection’s core was the mighty Luminor Submersible in many shapes and sizes. Andrew and I picked our three favourite takes on this … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Panerai 2017 collection overview and our 3 favourites *post may contain traces of bronze* appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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REVIEW: The 2021 TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Collection
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My Watch Story: A GoldenEye-Inspired Omega Seamaster 300 by Sagar Chowdury
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Hands-On: The New Omega Seamaster 300 Models
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Top Iconic Bronze Watches - 12 Of The Best Bronze Watches Ever Made - 9 Brands Mentioned $300 - $20K
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Building the Seiko SKX Sub-Ocean: My first SKX mod!
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SQUALE SUB-39 GMT Vintage - New For 2021 - Automatic 300m GMT Dive Watch - Squale Diver
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