Deployant
New: Patria Brigadier Tourbillon Subscription Edition
A brand first started by Louis Brandt (who also founded Omega) revived in 2019, releases their second model - the Brigadier Tourbillon Subscription.
2,244 articles · 2 videos found · page 32 of 75
Alfred Helwig's 1920 tourbillon variant with no upper bridge; the entire cage is visible.
Breguet's 1801 rotating-cage escapement, explained.
A quartet of new releases, one returning collector favorite, and a date that matters more than most anniversaries in watchmaking.
42.8 mm × 11.4 mm, lug 22 mm, Cal. R 27 HU
Deployant
A brand first started by Louis Brandt (who also founded Omega) revived in 2019, releases their second model - the Brigadier Tourbillon Subscription.
Time+Tide
New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Spider-Man” marks second Marvel collaboration after “Black Panther” Continues tradition of a limited edition of 250 pieces, with a piece unique “Black-suit Spider-Man” to be auctioned for charity The solid white-gold, hand-painted and engraved Spider-Man figure requires no less than 50 hours of work When Audemars Piguet debuted … ContinuedThe post Audemars Piguet unveils new Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Spider-Man” 42mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Two years ago, Audemars Piguet (AP) introduced the Royal Oak Concept “Black Panther”, a watch that caused a stir, to put it mildly. While the comics-and-complications combination was unorthodox, the watch was a commercial success. Now AP is following up – as promised – with its second Marvel collaboration, the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Spider-Man”. Like its predecessor, it has a miniature sculpture of the superhero as the dial and it is once again again a Royal Oak Concept, but now powered by a new calibre. And the Royal Oak Spider-Man watch also continues the charitable tradition started by its predecessor. A unique version of the new watch, the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Black Suit Spider-Man” that depicts a black-and-silver superhero, will be sold at auction to benefit First Book and Ashoka, a pair of charities that bring education to disadvantaged youth. Initial thoughts In some ways, the Royal Oak Black Panther did not look serious enough for such an expensive watch; it was perhaps too purple. While its aesthetics were subjective, it was certainly well executed. The miniature sculpture was done well in both detail, colour, and form. The same holds true for the Royal Oak Spider-Man, but it is an altogether more attractive watch. For one, it is less purple and more monochromatic, with much of the watch being black and white, leaving only the superhero figure to convey colour. And the figure itself is better positioned in that it allows more of t...
Time+Tide
Since CODE41 released their X41 AeroCarbon back in 2020, I have viewed the independent brand as a champion for watch collectors. Since their foundation in 2016, they have pushed the boundaries of affordability by offering highly technical watches for a fraction of the big-name prices. With an emphasis on clear, honest communication about component cost … ContinuedThe post CODE41 take the next step with the T360 Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
And now, readers, we’ve come to that portion of our Watches & Wonders coverage that I know at least two of you have been anxiously anticipating, Yes, it’s now an annual tradition I guess, where I will wax rhapsodically about a mind bending Hublot novelty fit for a modern version of an 18th century French king. I can’t really think of a better way to describe the Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Blue Sapphire than to contextualize it with something commonly understood to be shorthand for over-the-top indulgence, but that’s what this watch is all about, in the best possible way. It’s a huge swing, which is exactly what I like to see from brands at Watches & Wonders. If I’m going to fly across an ocean and deal with travel delays at every step, I’d like to see things that I can only see in a presentation in the back of one of those enormous booths. Last year I wrote about the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Purple Sapphire and characterized it as one of the best watches of last year’s Watches & Wonders because it succeeded at being compelling from a watchmaking perspective while also being completely outlandish in a way that Hublot is uniquely great at. It marked a point in my own appreciation for the brand where they rose above the level of a mere curiosity and reached a point where, in my opinion, they are deserving of the respect given to any other serious innovator in contemporary watchmaking. This year they’re back with a sequel of sorts to last ye...
Time+Tide
Bulgari flexes their haute horlogerie muscles with four high-end tourbillon-equipped pieces The Precious Naturalia and Precious Tourbillon Lumière show off natural gemstone beauty in rose gold cases Combining titanium and sapphire, the Striking Tourbillon Sapphire and Striking Papillon Tourbillon go for a futuristic look Cementing themselves as an unquestionable champion of fashion-brand-turned-high-end-watchmakers, Bulgari has been … ContinuedThe post Bulgari’s Precious and Striking Tourbillon models present three variations of the complication appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The new HYT Conical Tourbillon culminates HYT’s decade of technological advancement. Their exclusive mechanical fluidic technology blends seamlessly alongside traditional techniques such as glassblowing. The Conical Tourbillon is accentuated by a series of animated flying orbs. Despite a few rocky years including bankruptcy and resurrection, the unparalleled brand HYT is celebrating a decade of innovation … ContinuedThe post The HYT Conical Tourbillon is a visual blend of horology and science fiction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Double the dials, double the fun. And if those two faces don't keep your head spinning, watch out for that tourbillon.
Time+Tide
TAG Heuer’s super avant-garde Plasma is back with even more diamonds The entire dial is a one-piece diamond plate with two smaller polycrystalline diamonds used for the sub-dials Powered by a tourbillon calibre with a carbon nanotube balance spring, its anti-magnetic properties are excellent Upon its initial release in 2022, the TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde Chronograph Tourbillon adds more diamonds appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
For Vacheron Constantin, 2023 is the year of the retrograde date. The brand kicks off the year with three references featuring this unusual complication, led by the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface. Vacheron Constantin has a rich history in retrograde displays that dates back almost 100 years, and the Traditionnelle Tourbillon takes things up a notch with a hand-engraved, open-worked dial. Initial thoughts The new Traditionnelle Tourbillon is a tidy little package that tweaks an existing movement to create a surprisingly different watch thanks to an open-worked dial that uses the retrograde mechanism as a design element. The result is a watch that is recognisable as a Traditionnelle Tourbillon – it has many of the hallmarks of the line – but one that instantly stands apart. The new look also compliments the largish case well. Size-wise the new tourbillon is almost identical to the standard Traditionnelle Tourbillon with a conventional dial. But while the standard model feels a little large at 41 mm due to its classical styling, the new model feels more natural in its size thanks to its contemporary aesthetics. In terms of its value proposition, the estimated price of €200,000 is consistent with its stature, if a bit on the high side. It’s slightly more than the brand’s own Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton, a watch that features the same base movement dressed in more elaborate finishing. Of course, it’s not an apples-to-apples comparison since th...
Deployant
The birth of a new brand. Industry legend Jean-Claude Biver works with his son to release a ultra high end watch - the new Biver Carillon Tourbillon.
Time+Tide
How about it? After years of rumours and months of teasing, we were finally presented with the model that will spearhead Daniel Roth’s revival, aptly chosen to be a Tourbillon Souscription. We’ve seen the Daniel Roth name pop up in numerous auctions (here and here, for example), building up the hype, which I may or … ContinuedThe post Daniel Roth is back with the Tourbillon Souscription (and LVMH) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
We knew something was coming and now we know what that something is – a faithful recreation of an early Roth tourbillon.
SJX Watches
After more than a year of rumours, LVMH finally confirmed the long expected with its February announcement of the relaunch of Daniel Roth. And now the brand officially debuts its inaugural watch, the Tourbillon Souscription. Modelled on the Daniel Roth tourbillon of 1988, the Tourbillon Souscription is almost a remake of the original from thirty-five years ago. It retains the same styling characterised by a double-ellipse case and one-minute tourbillon at six, but is entirely new in terms of mechanics: inside is a brand-new mechanical movement developed by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton (LFT). Initial thoughts I got in touch with Daniel Roth and his wife Nicolas after learning of the brand’s revival. They indicated their approval of the project. Their approval will probably have little impact on the new watches since they aren’t involved in the brand’s comeback, but it is certainly good to know. Being a homage to the brand’s origins, the Tourbillon Souscription is a good opening act in its revival. But for the resurrected brand to have longevity and relevance, it would have to do more than remakes; it will have to create new and original products that channel the spirit of the originals, a point I made in my earlier editorial. A Daniel Roth tourbillon from the 1990s The Tourbillon Souscription is clearly inspired by the original watches of the 1990s. It retains the same dimensions and almost all the details, right down to the hobnail guilloche dial. In fact, i...
Time+Tide
The Cyrus Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon Sapphire features a golden bridge inspired by a design of Leonardo Da Vinci The vertical tourbillon placement is inspired by traditional pocket watches. It’s a limited edition of 10 pieces, celebrating the 10th anniversary of Cyrus. My last exposure to the Swiss independent luxury brand Cyrus Genéve was the Klepcys DICE Racing … ContinuedThe post The Cyrus Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon Sapphire is a unique watch inspired by Leonardo Da Vinci appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon lives up to its name. It has a date, a chronograph, a perpetual calendar, and a tourbillon. But it has more: this watch has character. Assigning human traits to a cold machine is a – romantic – fool’s errand, but it’s also irresistible in the presence of a masterpiece. A. Lange & Söhne’s warmest watch is more than a machine with a heartbeat. It has soul.
Time+Tide
Laurent Ferrier gives us a fourth iteration of the Grand Sport Tourbillon After the rich-boy flex of the Golden Brown, the reference returns to its sporty roots with a titanium case and bracelet The icing on top? A beautiful gradient salmon dial When Laurent Ferrier released the first Grand Sport Tourbillon, it stood out. In … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Laurent Ferrier cuts weight with the Grand Sport Tourbillon Pursuit appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Arguably the most significant Audemars Piguet timepiece ever, the Royal Oak celebrated its 50th anniversary last year with a host of new models, including the all-new Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202 and even a skeletonised, selfwinding flying tourbillon. And just before entering the New Year, Audemars Piguet (AP) dropped the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon “Dimpled Dial”. Essentially identical to the standard model, the new version – which is available in either white or pink gold – is distinguished by its surface finishing: dimples on the dial and frosting on the bezel. Limited to 33 pieces each, the pair are primarily for Japan, with only a handful of watches available outside the country. According to our sources, the unusual combination of finishes were proposed by Japanese watch influencer Chronopeace, explaining why most of the run will be sold only in Japan – though this has neither been confirmed nor denied by AP. Initial thoughts I first heard about this discreet release when images were shared with me. As AP occasionally won’t say what drops, the watch was not announced officially, but instead quietly added to its online catalogue, perhaps because it is only available in Japan. Despite being low key, this new release will surely appeal to anyone who likes the Royal Oak but wants the added oomph of a special dial. At a glance, the watch easily reveals itself to be stunning. The layout and style are familiar, but the few tweaks to the dial an...
Time+Tide
Pair a watch brand with a designer. Tell them the only limit is their imagination. The result? The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross.The post HANDS-ON: Hublot flex their collab muscles with the Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Presented to the world leaders who were recently in Phnom Penh for the ASEAN Summit, the ASEAN Lotus Tourbillon was created by the Prince Horology Vocational Training Center, the impressively-equipped watchmaking school set up by local conglomerate Prince Holding Group. (I visited the school in 2020 just before it opened its doors – see our report here.) Produced in an initial run of 25 pieces for the summit, it contains a hand-wind movement that is as notable for both its hand finishing and the one-minute tourbillon regulator. Cambodian prime minister Hun Sen was personally involved in the design of the watch – he received the very first example – and posted photos of the watch on his Facebook page a few days before the summit with the comment “Khmer can do it”. Initial thoughts Having been aware of the project and its ambitions since I visited the school two years ago, I was expecting much of the Lotus Tourbillon and I wasn’t disappointed. The quality of the execution is immediately apparent in the hand finishing of the components, particularly for the key components of the tourbillon, namely the cage and bridge. Equally impressive is the fact that it was developed and completed in under two years. Admittedly, the Lotus Tourbillon is plain in terms of the dial and case aesthetics, but the mechanical excellence is obvious. Importantly, the movement is likely to make it into a series of watches that will be sold publicly to raise funds for watchmaking school,...
Deployant
Cambodian Prime Minister Hun Sen wrote that he will be presenting the leaders in the upcoming ASEAN Leaders Summit with a Made in Cambodia Tourbillon.
Time+Tide
Swiss brand Horage has released Lensman 1, a beautiful photography-inspired tourbillon watch for under CHF 10K.The post No negatives: The Horage Lensman 1 is a Swiss-made tourbillon for under 10K inspired by photography appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Horage follows up with their Tourbillon 1with a new tourbillon the Lensman 1, using the same movement with details inspired by photography.
Hodinkee
Have you ever wanted to see Mario race around a tourbillon cage? Here's your chance.
Quill & Pad
Five of the six watches in this Tourbillon category are either openworked or dial-less, so their visuals are not dissimilar. Five of the six are also one-minute tourbillons. One-half of the finalists have flying tourbillons, while another boasts a cylindrical tourbillon, and yet another has a constant-force tourbillon. How will our panel ever choose a winner?
SJX Watches
Despite a rocky reception when Audemars Piguet debuted the line in 2019, the Code 11.59 collection is gaining traction, especially after several facelifts that bestowed smoked dials, two-tone cases, as well as open-worked movements on the line. Continuing the evolution – and improvement – is the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon that combines white gold and black ceramic in a novel two-tone case. More striking is the unexpected simplicity of the dial, which is a polished expanse of onyx stone, resulting in the most striking version of the model to date. Initial thoughts Since the launch of the collection, most Code 11.59 model have been redesigned in a manner that is somewhat formulaic, though the results have been attractive. The makeovers usually involved brighter dial colours or new materials, like the recent Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon that got an aventurine glass dial. In comparison, the latest redesign is a surprise that proves less is more. Stark and minimalist yet far from plain, the onyx dial easily sets the watch apart from its peers in the collection. It does that by streamlining the dial, even removing the Arabic numerals that are a signature element of the Code 11.59. Aside from the onyx dial, I also like the smart application of coloured accents. Though it is mainly in silver and black, it has just the right amount of rose gold details in just the right places to give it warmth and a bit of a vintage feel. And the black is also smartly utilised...
Time+Tide
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Black Panther Limited Edition may have been divisive, but it was an irrefutable success for the brand. The Royal Oak Concept line is a playground for Audemars Piguet to push the boundaries of their design and development, where beyond the sky is the limit. Recently AP has proved this … ContinuedThe post The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT makes the case The Hulk should be the next Marvel collab appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
It’s been six years since Bucherer inaugurated Bucherer Blue, a line of special-edition watches made specifically for the Swiss retailer by watchmakers ranging from Tudor to Audemars Piguet. Dressed in the Bucherer’s corporate colour of dark blue, the Bucherer Blue collection has become one of the retailer’s defining qualities. The latest to join the collection is a sports watch from H. Moser & Cie., the Streamliner Tourbillon Bucherer Blue, which features a flying tourbillon on a smoked grey dial framed by a ring of blue sapphires. Initial thoughts Visually simple in the typical Moser style but far from plain, the Streamliner Tourbillon is an attractive watch to begin with. It retains the no-frills look of a sports watch yet while managing to dial up the technical features with a double-hairspring flying tourbillon at six o’clock. The Bucherer Blue edition takes the idea of contrasting simplicity and complexity further with a gem-set bezel that certainly adds sparkle without taking away from the clean lines of the Streamliner. At a distance the bezel might evoke the coloured bezel inserts that are common in sports watches, though up close it is undeniably bling. But the gems blend well into the design as the uniform colour of the stones and graduated, geometric pattern they form both suit the Streamliner aesthetic perfectly. And the dial is a restrained, pale grey – naturally in Moser’s trademark smoked finish – that doesn’t compete with the sapphires...
Quill & Pad
The best thing about these six GPHG 2022 Ladies’ Complication watches is the variety of complications. Yes, we still have two traditional tourbillons, but the other four complications are anything but traditional. But, our panel asks, why are the tourbillons for ladies not competing in the main tourbillon category?
SJX Watches
As one of the world’s biggest watch retailers, Bucherer has long enjoyed unique relationships with leading watchmakers. Starting in 2016, Bucherer commissioned a series of special editions from a diversity of brands, including the well-known Tudor Black Bay Bronze Blue. Girard-Perregaux (GP) is the latest marque to create a special run for the Swiss retailer with the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Bucherer Blue. This variant of GP’s trademark complication once again is inspired by the retailer’s corporate colour: instead of a flat black in the standard version of the watch, the titanium bridges of the movement are highlighted in dark blue. Initial thoughts As with most of the Bucherer’s other editions, the new Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges is a change in livery, but one that transforms the feel of the watch. Going from a muted black to a vibrant blue is a simple tweak, but one that adds to the visual appeal by making the architecture of the movement more apparent. The blue treatment makes the bridges stand out and emphasise their graceful, arched form, a quality that is less obvious in the standard version because of its near-monochromatic finish. The standard version with its black bridges All that makes for a contemporary look that’s more striking, a perfect fit for a calibre that’s essentially an ultra-modern take on a concept dating to 1860. At the same time, the modern yet restrained aesthetic is appropriate given Bucherer’s status as ...
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