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WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: Enough with the digital renders – brands need decent photography Time+Tide
Feb 7, 2023

WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: Enough with the digital renders – brands need decent photography

One of the most common tips given to watch shoppers is to go and see their potential purchases in the metal before buying them. Not only is it beneficial to feel how they fit on your wrist, but also how they interact with real-world lighting and real-life eyeballs. In the online age, and especially post-COVID, … ContinuedThe post WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: Enough with the digital renders – brands need decent photography appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Reference Time: The White Gold Vacheron Constantin American 1921 Teddy Baldassarre
Vacheron Constantin Jan 31, 2023

Reference Time: The White Gold Vacheron Constantin American 1921

The Background What a year it has been for Vacheron. As the oldest maker in continual production, 2021 has marked the centenary year for the now iconic 1921 model. Not only that, but its Overseas has become the must have steel sports watch alongside the Royal Oak and Nautilus. Since the discontinuation of the 5711 and 15202, the time only, 42mm steel Overseas has seen waitlist explode in length. But we are of course here to discuss the wonderful 1921. So, a little background on Vacheron to kick things off. The Genevois watchmaker Jean-Mark Vacheron founded the company in 1755 at just 24 years of age (he must have weathered his fair share of storms over the years - how many businesses make it through 5 years today). His ambition was to create timepieces that would stand out for their elegance and quality. In 1785, Vacheron's son Abraham took over the company, which survived the French Revolution, among other economic crises. By 1814, third-generation watchmaker Jacques Barthelemy Vacheron was leading the company, but Vacheron realized that he needed a partner if the company was to survive. It wasn’t until 1819 when Francois Constantin, became a partner in the firm. From that point forward, it was "Vacheron & Constantin”.  The 1921 is a rare and unusual watch. You either love it or hate it (as all good design should be). Few will know that Vacheron Constantin did produce a similar looking watch first watch in 1919 which had the crown to the left of the lugs. It was a ru...

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TAG Heuer is still in the driving seat when it comes to their racing sponsorship outreach Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Jan 31, 2023

TAG Heuer is still in the driving seat when it comes to their racing sponsorship outreach

TAG Heuer is certain to rank highly among lists of the most recognisable watch brands. Their commercial success in recent years, especially among our fellow Aussies, is rivalled only by a select few. The story is the same when one considers their rich and storied past, from their founding in 1860, until today. Patenting their … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer is still in the driving seat when it comes to their racing sponsorship outreach appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Zenith Introduces the Defy Revival A3691 SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Jan 25, 2023

Zenith Introduces the Defy Revival A3691

Last year, Zenith debuted the Defy Revival A3642 – a vintage-remake sports watch with an octagonal case and tetradecagonal bezel – to the delight of enthusiasts who were excited to see the return of this distinctive design. The only problem was the fact that it was limited to 250 pieces. Now the brand has introduced its regular-production version with the Defy Revival A3691 which has a ruby-red dial. Identical to the limited edition in form and dimension, the A3691 is a sturdy three-hander with a faithful vintage feel at an attractive price point. Initial thoughts Finally the Defy Revival is in regular production. With its vintage proportions and affordability, the watch was on my wish list as an alternative to mainstream sports watches, so I hope last year’s limited edition wasn’t a one-off. Seeing it make a comeback is a good thing, and the red dial certainly makes it more striking.  While some may argue – with good reason – that this is merely a rehash of the original in a different colour. It is, but the A3691 is still a good product in terms of price-performance ratio. At US$6,900, the A3691 is well priced relative to the competition, both from other brands and even Zenith itself. Its modern equivalent, the Defy Skyline, costs about 20% more, albeit with a more refined case and bracelet. For anyone who wants a sports watch with a retro flavour and in-house movement that stands apart from mainstream offerings, the A3691 is a good contender. Last year’s...

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Recapping the releases of the week – Grand Seiko, Zenith, Hublot, TAG Heuer and Bulgari Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Zenith Hublot TAG Heuer Jan 13, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Recapping the releases of the week – Grand Seiko, Zenith, Hublot, TAG Heuer and Bulgari

While it may only be the second week of the new year, we already, in this past week alone, have a ton of new novelties to explore. Much of this can be attributed to LVMH Watch Week, that just wrapped up in Singapore, but Grand Seiko also threw their hat in the ring as well. … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Recapping the releases of the week – Grand Seiko, Zenith, Hublot, TAG Heuer and Bulgari appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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MICRO MONDAYS: The RZE Ascentus GMT delivers serious bang-for-buck in a titanium case Time+Tide
Dec 12, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The RZE Ascentus GMT delivers serious bang-for-buck in a titanium case

RZE cemented themselves in my mind as one of the best value microbrands when they released their Valour 38 field watch for under US$300, and their latest release only solidifies that title with some exciting new features. The RZE Ascentus GMT merges their well-established design style with sensible dimensions, and bang-for-buck features with a little … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The RZE Ascentus GMT delivers serious bang-for-buck in a titanium case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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anOrdain Model 1 Payne’s Grey Fumé: 50 Shades Of Grey Never Looked So Tempting – Reprise Quill & Pad
anOrdain Nov 6, 2022

anOrdain Model 1 Payne’s Grey Fumé: 50 Shades Of Grey Never Looked So Tempting – Reprise

anOrdain is not your average watch company. Located in Glasgow, Scotland, its name derives from a remote loch deep in the Scottish Highlands. There, Lewis Heath, a trained architect, first got the idea of creating a modern watch brand honoring traditional crafts. And the new Model 1 Payne's Grey Fumé exemplifies how anOrdain not only honors these crafts but superbly progresses them.

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The new Hamilton Railroad Pocket embodies an American tradition Time+Tide
Hamilton Railroad Pocket embodies Oct 20, 2022

The new Hamilton Railroad Pocket embodies an American tradition

Hamilton’s history is a rich one. After taking over existing manufacturing facilities in Pennsylvania and establishing the Hamilton Watch Company in 1892, the brand was first focused on producing accurate railroad pocket watches, before shifting production to wristwatches after WWI, eventually only producing military watches during WWII. The new Hamilton Railroad Pocket watch focuses on … ContinuedThe post The new Hamilton Railroad Pocket embodies an American tradition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Piaget & Phillips Introduce the Altiplano Origin China Edition SJX Watches
Piaget & Phillips Introduce Oct 10, 2022

Piaget & Phillips Introduce the Altiplano Origin China Edition

Piaget typically relies on a conventional palette for its signature ultra-thin dress watches, but its latest Altiplano livens things up. A collaboration between Piaget and auctioneers Phillips, the Altiplano Origin China Special Edition is based on the watchmaker’s wafer-thin watch equipped with its in-house, super-flat automatic movement. Ordinarily found with a sedate silver dial, the Altiplano gets gradient green dial with pink gold hands and markings in a 21-piece limited edition available only in China. Initial thoughts Piaget’s typical formal watches with silver dials are classic, but they can be too plain. Excepting a handful with dials in unusual materials or finishes, I find many of them overly formal and visually flat. The China edition, in contrast, instantly stands out. Though it changes nothing in terms of the basic design, the gradient green lacquer and pink gold accents give the dial a vibrance absent in the standard models. Green, however, is today’s fashionable colour, which means it’s more common than it should be. Even so, the China edition has minor design tweaks that give it a more appealing aesthetic than the standard version, like the elimination of the numerals from the seconds register. Priced at 10% more than the standard model in white gold, the China edition is more appealing. Elegantly flat In contrast to similar Altiplano models that are almost uniformly kitted out in silver dials, the China edition has a dial that’s a deep, shaded...

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15 Rugged Watches, From Under $300 to $10,000+ Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 23, 2022

15 Rugged Watches, From Under $300 to $10,000+

Some occasions call for a suit, some for jeans, khakis, and t-shirts. Some events demand a dressy watch, others a tough, rugged watch that can take a beating. If the latter style of timepiece is what you're in the market for lately, check out our list of 15 tough, rugged watches (in ascending order of price) that not only boast impressive levels of functionality, reliability, and resistance to extreme depths, temperatures, and shocks, but also look very stylish on the wrist.  Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Diver 200m Price: $280, Case Size: 44mm, Thickness: 11.6mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water Resistance: 200m, Movement: Citizen Eco-Drive E168  Citizen unveiled its Promaster line of professional-grade sports watches in 1989 and its Promaster Diver models - equipped with the Japanese brand’s proprietary Eco-Drive technology, which uses light to perpetually charge the movement - have proven to be among the most popular of Citizen’s vast portfolio of timepieces. The 44mm steel case features a 60-click rotating bezel made of aluminum (here in maritime blue) and a screw-down crown positioned at 4 o’clock. The blue dial sports wide hands and large applied hour markers, all generously lumed for underwater visibility, and a date window at 4 o’clock. The prominent minute hand with its orange detailing adds another layer of contrast, and hence legibility, to the dial. The Eco-Drive movement offers six months of power on a full charge and boasts an accuracy of ...

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A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Guide Teddy Baldassarre
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 9, 2022

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Guide

The Lange 1 from German luxury watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne is an internationally recognized icon of modern watchmaking and the undisputed flagship of the Glashütte-based manufacture’s collection. And even though the Lange 1 has only been on the scene since 1994, the watch, and the company that makes it, trace their roots much further into history. From the pioneering watchmaker who jump-started a national industry in the 19th century, to his descendant that forged a new beginning for his family business in the 20th, to the evolution of a legendary watch into new and complex forms in the 21st, this the story of A. Lange & Söhne and the Lange 1. Ferdinand Adolph Lange & the Rebirth of Glashütte Few in the long history of watchmaking have had a more profound and lasting impact on a nation’s horological destiny than Ferdinand Adolph Lange had on that of Germany, whose industry is famously rooted in the town of Glashütte in Saxony. It was Lange (1815 - 1875), a native of nearby Dresden and a classically trained master watchmaker, who laid the foundations on which the struggling former mining town would build itself into Germany’s watchmaking center with the establishment of the original A. Lange & Cie. manufactory in 1845. Lange’s vision was not just for his own company but for the entire state of Saxony. When the apprentices that trained at his company had mastered their craft, he encouraged them to start their own factories and hire and train their own employees...

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Zenith launches e-commerce in Australia – boutique editions available now online! Time+Tide
Zenith launches e-commerce Sep 7, 2022

Zenith launches e-commerce in Australia – boutique editions available now online!

One of the biggest gripes in the watch marketplace is accessibility. For example, when the MoonSwatch launched, and it was revealed it would only be sold in boutiques, many were concerned they did not have a place to visit locally to purchase it. This is where e-commerce is crucial, opening the doors and giving people … ContinuedThe post Zenith launches e-commerce in Australia – boutique editions available now online! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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31 Gold Watches for Men at Every Price Range Teddy Baldassarre
Aug 10, 2022

31 Gold Watches for Men at Every Price Range

Stainless steel sport-luxury watches are definitely having a moment in the watch collectors' spotlight lately, but the enduring appeal of gold watches remains undeniable. Timepieces in precious metals not only project a confident aura of elegance; they also represent a tangible value that can be passed on to future generations. Of course, gold watches tend to be a much more significant investment in terms of price than watches in steel, but watch connoisseurs of more modest means have a fair amount of options as well when it comes to achieving that classic gold look, from plated and PVD-treated models to bi-material (aka two-tone) timepieces that blend some gold elements with steel. In this compilation, we'll list some of our favorites in those more budget-conscious categories as well as some recent standouts in the most popular styles: yellow-gold, rose-gold, and white-gold. GOLD TONE: Those seeking their first gold watch may want to consider some of these gold-plated and PVD options from respected brands that are known for solid quality and attractive designs at attainable prices. Casio Vintage Gold A168GW-9VT Price: $65, Reference: A168GW-9VT, Case Size: 38.6mm x 36.3mm, Case Height: 9.6mm, Crystal: Resin Glass, Water Resistance: Water-Resistant, Movement: Quartz Digital While its most iconic contribution to the watch world is undoubtedly the mega-popular G-Shock, Japan’s Casio offers different styles of digital timekeeping in its retro-influenced Vintage series, t...

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INTRODUCING: The HYT Hastroid is like an alien spaceship for the wrist (in a good way) Time+Tide
HYT Aug 7, 2022

INTRODUCING: The HYT Hastroid is like an alien spaceship for the wrist (in a good way)

Innovation is always risky, but HYT paid the ultimate price in 2021 when they were forced into bankruptcy less than 10 years after announcing their award-winning H1 watch to raucous reception. Now only a year later, HYT have been resurrected by Kairos Technology Switzerland - an innovative company in their own right who have appointed … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The HYT Hastroid is like an alien spaceship for the wrist (in a good way) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Zodiac Watches: A Comprehensive History and Guide to the Modern Collec Teddy Baldassarre
Zodiac Aug 3, 2022

Zodiac Watches: A Comprehensive History and Guide to the Modern Collec

If you’ve only recently discovered Zodiac watches - a strong likelihood, as its most well-known and popular model, the Super Sea Wolf, has only been back on the market since 2015 - you may be surprised to learn that Zodiac traces its watchmaking history all the way back to 1882, and that it launched the first Sea Wolf dive watch back in 1953, placing it in the same historical company as other pioneering dive watches debuting in that seminal year, like the much more heralded Rolex Submariner and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Today the most prestigious and historical watch brand within the huge, Texas-based Fossil Group, Zodiac continues its longstanding tradition of offering distinctively styled Swiss Made watches at accessible prices, with some of the most popular models reviving its milestone designs from the mid-20th Century. THE BEGINNINGS Second-generation watchmaker Ariste Calame founded the workshop that would grow into the Zodiac watch company in 1882 in Le Locle, in Switzerand’s Jura Mountains. The first timepieces Calame made there were originally branded under his own name. In 1895, the founder’s son Louis Ariste Calame, who had also trained as a watchmaker, took over the business at the age of 20 and registered the name “Zodiac” in 1908, applying it to the innovative flat pocket watches, called Zodiac Triumph, which the company began producing in 1924, equipped with the in-house Caliber 1617 (below, via Watchuseek). In the wake of World War I, however, ...

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Roger Dubuis Introduces the Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Introduces Jul 19, 2022

Roger Dubuis Introduces the Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier

Having made it a point to collaborate with contemporary artists – last year the brand recruited tattooist Dr Woo to design a watch – Roger Dubuis has now turned to Hajime Sorayama. Best known for his mirrored, metallic female robots – which were the centrepiece of Dior’s 2019 men’s collection – the Japanese illustrator applied his aesthetic to Roger Dubuis’s signature time-only wristwatch to create the Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier. The Excalibur is perhaps the quintessential face for the Roger Dubuis of today. Skeletonised and sharply sculpted, the watch – as well as its movement – have been reworked by Mr Sorayama in the manner of his trademark robot drawings. Both the watch case and movement gain the rounded, mirror-polished finish that define Mr Sorayama’s work, which extends to depictions of Mickey Mouse and dinosaurs. A typical Sorayama work: Untitled, 2018. Image – Art Basel Initial thoughts Roger Dubuis’ current offerings are ultra-modern timepieces that are done well in both construction and finish, but they are often overshadowed by their traditional predecessors. That’s a shame because watches such as the Monobalancier are amongst the better examples of a sporty, skeletonised watch. Already original and creative in both the movement and case, the Monobalancier is now made more appealing with the Sorayama touch. The artist has given the watch a makeover that’s subtle yet significant, reshaping some elements and giving most of t...

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Citizen Introduces the Promaster Diver 200m “Green Anaconda” SJX Watches
Citizen Introduces Jul 15, 2022

Citizen Introduces the Promaster Diver 200m “Green Anaconda”

Introduced just last year, the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m is an distinctive and compelling “tool” watch with an over-the-top style and impressive specs that include a hardened titanium case and magnetism-resistant movement. Now the watch returns in even more striking livery in a limited edition that will be available only in Asia. Dressed in green and gold, the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m Asia Limited Edition “Green Anaconda” has a hobnailed dial and bezel, while the case, bracelet, and bezel are all black coated. Initial thoughts The original model was easy to like, especially if you like chunky dive watches. Its technical features are amongst the best in at its price segment, while the slightly exaggerated styling also helps it stand out in the crowded segment of affordable dive watches. What the first version lacked, however, was flair. Thought the watch was big and hard to miss, it was dressed almost entirely in shades of grey, which felt too restrained for the size and design. The “Green Anaconda” certainly took that lesson to heart with its striking colours that leave the hobnail patterning seem even more obvious than before. The colours and textures are brought out even more by the contrast with the black-coated case and bracelet. They are finished in diamond-like carbon (DLC), resulting in a charcoal finish that’s slightly glossy. The dark finish also makes the watch look smaller than it is, which is useful given its 46 mm diameter. With...

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A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the 1815 Rattrapante in Platinum SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 14, 2022

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the 1815 Rattrapante in Platinum

Launched as part of the “Homage to F.A. Lange” 175th anniversary collection in HoneyGold two years ago, the 1815 Rattrapante was the only one of the trio that was all-new model. In fact, it was the German watchmaker’s first pure-play split-seconds chronograph, and surprisingly svelte by its standards. Though the anniversary edition sold out swiftly, the watch is making a comeback with a platinum case and silver dial. A pleasing and familiar combination most often seen on its simpler models, the silver-and-blue livery is uncommon for Lange chronographs, which tend to have dark-coloured dials, making the new split-seconds unusual. The anniversary 1815 Rattrapante Initial thoughts Essentially variation of the original with different case and dial, the new 1815 Rattrapante is still noteworthy because the original in HoneyGold was limited to only 100 pieces but deserved a broader audience because it was appealing on several levels. The watch is thin and understated, unlike most Lange complications, but nevertheless boasts a movement with the visual depth and impeccable decoration typical of the brand. While the new model has the standard movement decoration instead of a frosted finish, the most obvious difference between the two is on the front. The platinum version has an understated, tone-on-tone look that I prefer over the high-contrast look of the anniversary model. While the all-silver look may seem too simple at a glance, it’s been given a bit of life with red...

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Undefeated Moser in a subway speakeasy and mastering chronographs with Zenith Time+Tide
Zenith We’ve had Jun 17, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Undefeated Moser in a subway speakeasy and mastering chronographs with Zenith

We’ve had an action-packed week, but there were two highlights in particular. Ricardo swung by La Noxe in NYC for the unveiling of the Undefeated x Moser Streamliner collaboration, and the only thing as interesting as the watch was the space he got to see it. To anyone on the street, Ricardo was just heading … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Undefeated Moser in a subway speakeasy and mastering chronographs with Zenith appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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