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Introducing - Moritz Grossmann Injects a Contemporary Air into the Benu Power Reserve Monochrome
Moritz Grossmann Injects Sep 30, 2026

Introducing - Moritz Grossmann Injects a Contemporary Air into the Benu Power Reserve

Bearing the name of one of the founding fathers of 19th-century German watchmaking, Moritz Grossmann is today an independent high-end Glashütte watch manufacture producing low-volume, hand-finished pieces. Marking the bicentennial of the founder’s birth, Moritz Grossmann presents two more contemporary, dark-themed versions of the elegant Benu Power Reserve. The Benu was the first watch to […]

The Future Is Here: Why The North Flag/Northflag Is So Important For Tudor Once Again Fratello
Tudor Once Again Almost nobody Sep 30, 2026

The Future Is Here: Why The North Flag/Northflag Is So Important For Tudor Once Again

Almost nobody liked the Tudor North Flag. Still, in 2015, the watch marked an important moment in Tudor’s history. Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf started the brand in 1926, stating the following: “I decided to form a separate company with the object of making and marketing a watch that our agents could sell at a more […] Visit The Future Is Here: Why The North Flag/Northflag Is So Important For Tudor Once Again to read the full article.

Takeaways from the Record-Breaking Rolex Daytona Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref 6300A Sep 29, 2026

Takeaways from the Record-Breaking Rolex Daytona Auction

In just a couple of weeks, Rolex and Phillips pulled off the near-impossible: a record-setting auction where the unique Daytona “Four Seasons” set sold for £37.3 million, equivalent to US$49.5 million. The sum is the largest tally ever for a charity watch auction of any sort, and also surpasses the US$31 million achieved by the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A in 2019 – which was admittedly a single watch. All of the proceeds from the sale of the “Four Seasons” go to charities founded by Roger Federer and Leonardo DiCaprio, global celebrities and Rolex “Testimonees” who lent star power to the evening, which took place on September 28, the day after the Laver Cup that Mr Federer attended. The venue was the Raffles London, perhaps the latest and greatest hotel in the British capital, a city with no shortage of grand hotels. Reputedly the most expensive hotel project in the city’s history, having cost some £1.5 billion, the colonial building was once home to the British Ministry of Defence. The four Daytonas were on display in a room that appeared to be a basement bunker. The lavishly rebuilt interiors of the “Old War Office” were a fitting venue for the record-breaking evening, which was populated by a mix of celebrities, including Mick Jagger and Jon Bon Jovi, as well as many anonymous but well-heeled watch collectors who are clients of Phillips. Some of the world’s most significant watch collectors were in the room. Despite the short time...

Owner’s Review: the Norqain Adventure Sport Worn & Wound
Norqain Adventure Sport One Sep 29, 2026

Owner’s Review: the Norqain Adventure Sport

One of the recurring topics of conversation I’ve long heard among watch collectors is the fantasy of a pared down collection. Sometimes, the dream is by the numbers – a seven-watch collection (one for each day of the week), the sweet spot three-watch collection (dress, sport, and wild card), or the ultra-ambitious one-watch collection (but how could you ever choose just one?!). Other times, the musings on a pared down collection get more specific – a single brand, a single style, a single material. For me, the collecting fantasy revolves around color – or rather, the absence of color – an all-white collection. At the current moment, I only have three, but there is one in particular that has solidified my love of white watches not just for summer but all year round (yes, white watches look just as good on snow bunnies). This is the story of my Norqain Adventure Sport. For those of you who know me outside the page, I’m the antithesis of the all-black New Yorker. Perhaps it’s my southern roots showing (shoutout ATL), but in recent years, I’ve become a self-proclaimed rainbow girl. This wasn’t always the case. In high school, I hailed from the emo era, and to the horror of my fairly traditional Midwest parents and southern upbringing, I dyed my hair dark, cut asymmetrical bangs, painted my nails black, and wore clothes that matched my angst and musical taste (btw we will circle back to this seemingly superfluous detail later on in the story, stay tuned). When...

Hands-On: Seiko Alpinist GMT HBC007 Hodinkee
Seiko Alpinist GMT HBC007 Sep 29, 2026

Hands-On: Seiko Alpinist GMT HBC007

For the life of me, I can't remember if I've ever owned an Alpinist. I think I did, for a little while. I know I at least borrowed one for a while, but the Alpinist was never as central to me as it has been for a lot of watch guys of my vintage (by that, I mean collectors who got into this whole thing in the late 2000s). If I did own an Alpinist, it was a brief, flirtatious affair meant to satisfy curiosity before I found my way back to the SKX (a watch I have owned many, many examples of). Still, the Alpinist — specifically the SARB017 Alpinist with its green dial, compass bezel, and gold numerals — seemed as close to omnipresent as a watch could get in my early days of collecting and learning. They made daily appearances on wristcheck channels on forums, and their sudden appearance on one of my friends' wrists was a great sign that they were becoming properly watch-enthused. It's hard to quantify the Alpinist's impact, but here's the thing: while the Alpinist may not be the Seiko thatmost watch enthusiasts collect today, if you control for "dive watch," I'd hazard a guess it's at least close. And in an era when it felt like a Seiko was the price of entry to "watch enthusiast," it was a watch that mattered. And then, it vanished. Okay, that's maybe a little dramatic. The Alpinist had a long run, and like so many of the watches Seiko introduced in the '90s and '00s, it was eventually sunsetted and, a few short years later, replaced with something that looks awfully sim...

First Look - A new Burgundy Dial for the Oris Big Crown x Cervo Volante Monochrome
Oris Big Crown x Cervo Sep 29, 2026

First Look - A new Burgundy Dial for the Oris Big Crown x Cervo Volante

One of Oris‘ most emblematic watches, the Big Crown Pointer Date pilot watch has enjoyed a surprisingly long lifespan and is rightfully considered the brand’s icon. Introduced in 1938, the Big Crown was conceived as a tool watch for military and civilian pilots. As part of the brand’s ongoing “Change for the Better” sustainability campaign, […]

Channeling Autumn: The Newest Oris × Cervo Volante Big Crown Pointer Date Fratello
Oris × Cervo Volante Big Sep 29, 2026

Channeling Autumn: The Newest Oris × Cervo Volante Big Crown Pointer Date

Oris and Cervo Volante, a Swiss producer of high-quality leather goods, have released several collaborations in the past few years. For their latest one, the two brands created a 40mm Oris Big Crown Pointer Date with a beautiful burgundy gradient dial and a dark brown Cervo Volante strap made from sustainable deer leather. The watch […] Visit Channeling Autumn: The Newest Oris × Cervo Volante Big Crown Pointer Date to read the full article.

Introducing: Ianos Amfivios (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Sep 28, 2026

Introducing: Ianos Amfivios (Live Pics)

What We Know Today, Ianos, the Greek microbrand best known for its Greek history and culture-inspired dive watches like the Avyssos and the Dytis, is back with a new dive watch that was never meant to be. When Ianos introduced the Dytis last year, it was noted as the last in a trilogy of dive watches from Ianos, after which they would move on to the next thing. Well, Ianos is still mostly sticking to that story, but in the meantime, we have the Ianos Amfivios, a civilian edition of a special-edition watch Ianos produced last summer for Greece's Underwater Demolition Command. The new watch, built on the same dive-watch platform as last summer's Dytis (which TanTan went hands-on with here), is a solid next step for a brand that has iterated gently, even as it's taken big aesthetic swings in developing its collection. And truly, few, if any, other watches on the market scratch the same itch as Ianos's watches do. That said, the Amfivios is about as mass-appeal a watch as Ianos has produced, thanks to the military-demanded touches that set it apart from the Dytis. The Amfivios is, for example, the first dive watch since the original Avyssos to include any kind of scale on the rotating bezel. And where previous Ianos watches have used the small seconds subdial as a visual gag, here it is a functional subdial, with hands, markers, and everything. That's not to say Ianos has purged all that makes these watches, frankly, a little funky, though. The unique date at 12 remains, with ...

Introducing - The Yema Navygraf Meteorite CMM.10 Limited Edition, in Black or Green Monochrome
Yema Navygraf Meteorite CMM.10 Limited Sep 28, 2026

Introducing - The Yema Navygraf Meteorite CMM.10 Limited Edition, in Black or Green

Recently, French brand Yema has expanded the Navygraf series beyond its traditional tool-watch format, experimenting with less conventional materials such as forged carbon and mother-of-pearl for the dial and bezel insert. The latest evolution goes much further back in time. Yema brings a slice of Muonionalusta meteorite, a material estimated to have formed around 4.5 […]

Introducing: The Louis Vuitton Monterey In Ceramic Hodinkee
Louis Vuitton Monterey Sep 28, 2026

Introducing: The Louis Vuitton Monterey In Ceramic

What We Know The 2025 revival of the Louis Vuitton Monterey was a curious moment for the brand. Certainly influenced by a recent surge in popularity for the original LV I and LV II watches among celebrities and vintage collectors, it was a small(ish) 188-piece run (priced at $60,000) meant to show the brand was paying attention to what was happening around it. While the original LV I was a quartz watch with several complications, the brand simplified the aesthetics with the revival—gone were the complications and the distinctive, busy dial with all of its markings, as the new Monterey was time-only with a mechanical movement. But that Monterey also demonstrated the craft of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, introducing a simpler dial in grand feu enamel. While it may have seemed like a small blip in the brand's overall plans, Louis Vuitton has more to say about the pebble-like designs from 1988 by Italian architect Gae Aulenti—the Monterey Ceramic, a duo of watches that focuses on the smaller LV II. Now, the Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramics are not part of a limited edition and officially enter the brand's permanent collection. The cases are faithful to the original, preserving the model's smaller 37mm case size and both original ceramic colors: green and black. The polished, pebble-shaped case is slightly thicker at 11mm, however, because it houses the automatic LFTMA01.02 caliber rather than the original quartz movement. Like last year's Monterey, the Monterey Ceram...

First Look - Louis Vuitton Unveils the Monterey in Green or Black Ceramic, Tribute to the LV II of 1988 Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Unveils Sep 28, 2026

First Look - Louis Vuitton Unveils the Monterey in Green or Black Ceramic, Tribute to the LV II of 1988

Contrary to popular belief, Louis Vuitton’s first watch was not the 2002 Tambour but the earlier Montre LV I and LV II, launched in 1988. Designed by Italian architect Gae Aulenti and produced in collaboration with IWC, these quartz-powered pieces reflected the brand’s travel-oriented identity. With their lug-free, pebble-shaped cases and crowns at 12 o’clock, […]

The New Ianos Amfivios Is Like A Fish In Water On The Wrist Fratello
Sep 28, 2026

The New Ianos Amfivios Is Like A Fish In Water On The Wrist

With the Avyssos, Mihanikos, and Dytis, the Greek brand Ianos completed its trilogy of dive watches. That’s what founder Jacob Hatzidimitriou thought, anyway. Then, last year, he released the Ianos OYK. That watch was developed exclusively for active members of Greece’s Underwater Demolition Command (DYK), including the Underwater Demolition Teams (OYK), the country’s most elite […] Visit The New Ianos Amfivios Is Like A Fish In Water On The Wrist to read the full article.

Living With The Hanhart 415 ES Reverse Panda After Selling My IWC 3706 Fratello
IWC 3706 There’s Sep 27, 2026

Living With The Hanhart 415 ES Reverse Panda After Selling My IWC 3706

There’s a particular kind of watch that looks better the longer you sit with it, and the Hanhart 415 ES in its black-dial, white-register guise is exactly that kind of watch. First impressions are strong; that’s easy with a reverse-panda dial. However, it’s the weeks that follow and the mornings you reach for it without […] Visit Living With The Hanhart 415 ES Reverse Panda After Selling My IWC 3706 to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm Vs. Seiko Prospex Alpinist Fratello
Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm Sep 27, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm Vs. Seiko Prospex Alpinist

It’s another Sunday morning, so it’s time for a hot cup of coffee and a heated watch battle. This week, Daan is back, and he takes on Jorg once more in a clash of two cult favorites. Daan’s pick is the recently released 38mm Hamilton Khaki Field Murph. The Murph has become a proper darling […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm Vs. Seiko Prospex Alpinist to read the full article.

Weirdos Or Class Acts? Introducing The Ulysse Nardin Freak One Blue Enamel And Guilloché Fratello
Ulysse Nardin Freak One Blue Enamel Sep 26, 2026

Weirdos Or Class Acts? Introducing The Ulysse Nardin Freak One Blue Enamel And Guilloché

Since the watch shocked the world when it first appeared in 2001 and still looks as unconventional and futuristic as ever, the question is fair: are the two new Ulysse Nardin Freak One Blue Enamel and Guilloche watches weirdos or class acts? Well, since one features a guilloché disc with a sunray pattern coated in […] Visit Weirdos Or Class Acts? Introducing The Ulysse Nardin Freak One Blue Enamel And Guilloché to read the full article.

Hands-On: The Patek Philippe Celestial Ref. 6105G (Plus Technical In-Depth) Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Celestial Ref 6105G Plus Sep 25, 2026

Hands-On: The Patek Philippe Celestial Ref. 6105G (Plus Technical In-Depth)

We're on the eve of one of Patek Philippe's biggest events every few years: the October 2nd to the 18th presentation of the brand's Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan. On Monday, I'll be flying there for a preview of the exhibition, so stay tuned for stories from that trip coming in the near future. Another story, which has been waiting in the wings and in progress for some time now, was a hands-on look at two of the most surprising (and potentially divisive) releases from Patek this year: the Cubitus perpetual calendar and the Celestial ref. 6105G. While all eyes were on the Nautilus's 50th anniversary, I thought Patek Philippe had a very interesting Watches & Wonders, at least from the perspective of bold releases and brand strategy. Truthfully, they could have done just about anything with the Nautilus, and those lucky enough to get a watch would have been happy. The Celestial alone was a wristwatch with a complication only four other brands have created. But just take a look at the two watches above and the two below. While I didn't get to see the ref. 7047G in person, it raised eyebrows for the very unusual blue tire tread-style dial (à la ref. 6007G) and remarkably strong orange accents and luminous hands and dial placed on a minute repeater that retails north of $570,000. It was perhaps so aesthetically surprising that it distracted people from the fact that Patek was honoring its past with a Calatrava-cased minute repeater reminiscent of the unique ref. 3652 and ...

Introducing - Buci Opens a New Chapter with the Singular Nouvelle Collection Monochrome
Sep 25, 2026

Introducing - Buci Opens a New Chapter with the Singular Nouvelle Collection

Founded in 2022 by Nousseïma Baraket, Buci approaches watchmaking through the written word, taking ideas from books, poetry and different forms of writing. Its debut Garde-Temps collection established this identity, followed by collaborations with seconde/seconde/ and Revolution Watch magazine. With Nouvelle, its second collection, Buci turns to the short story, using the passage of time […]

Interview: Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani and Vianney Halter SJX Watches
Bulgari unveiled Sep 25, 2026

Interview: Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani and Vianney Halter

At Geneva Watch Days, Bulgari unveiled its latest collaboration with an independent watchmaker, three years after a fateful meeting between Vianney Halter and Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Product Creation Executive Director at Bulgari. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo x Vianney Halter Both describe their encounter – seemingly improbable at first – as more natural than we might expect. It resulted in a watch they both describe as “half Octo, half Vianney”. Yet this was not simply a matter of grafting one aesthetic onto another; the collaboration went deeper. Two separate conversations bring the same themes into focus: human connection, constraint as a creative stimulus and, above all, the opportunity to learn from one another. Vianney Halter (left) with Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani. Image – Bulgari From Bulgari’s perspective, Mr Stigliani describes the Octo Finissimo as a model whose identity had become strong enough to withstand a much deeper transformation – and a manufacture challenged by the ideas of an independent watchmaker. Mr Halter, meanwhile, has long regarded collaboration as a means of moving beyond the boundaries and limitations of his own workshop – provided that the human relationship comes before the project. The interview was edited for length and clarity. Yannick Nardin (YN): Fabrizio, how did the idea of working with Vianney Halter come about? Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani (FBS): I’ve always been in love with the Antiqua. We went to see Vi...

Edward R. Murrow’s Gold Bulova Chronograph Hits the Auction Block Next Month Worn & Wound
Bulova Chronograph Hits Sep 24, 2026

Edward R. Murrow’s Gold Bulova Chronograph Hits the Auction Block Next Month

There are rare occasions in this line of work when you encounter real history that resonates with you. I’ve been fortunate enough through the years to handle a number of important vintage watches, owned by notable people, or simply incredibly rare and historic markers for their makers. These watches are visible and tangible links between the past and present and it’s always a thrill to be able to bear witness to one of these objects, even if only for a moment.  But let’s face it, most of the time when we’re talking about historically important vintage watches, we’re talking about watches that are historically important to the watch industry itself, and the history of watchmaking. New Hampshire’s Jones & Horan auction house, which specializes in horological auctions and has a knack for finding all kinds of unique and genuinely important pieces, will be selling a watch in their October auction that feels genuinely significant, and hits that Venn Diagram overlap of so many of my personal interests.  The gold Bulova chronograph seen here was owned by Edward R. Murrow, the famed CBS newsman, who influenced countless journalists and broadcasters and reshaped his industry multiple times. The watch is spectacular, incredibly well preserved, and interesting on a number of levels simply as a horological object. Adding Murrow’s incredibly well documented ownership of the watch into the mix makes it that much more special.  There are many photographs of Murrow wearing...

Hands-On: BA111OD’s Chapter 7 Skeleton Gets a Light and Airy Stainless Steel Build Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Sep 24, 2026

Hands-On: BA111OD’s Chapter 7 Skeleton Gets a Light and Airy Stainless Steel Build

I had heard the name but was not aware of the unforgettable spelling until I got a sample of my first BA111OD watch, the latest addition to the brand’s catalog: the Chapter 7 Skeleton. While BA111OD traces its roots back deep into the history of watchmaking, its modern incarnation has taken shape over the past seven years with several different chapters. One of the biggest evolutions we have seen in the brand’s contemporary catalog is in its movements. While early chapters got flack for keeping costs accessible with Chinese calibers, Chapter 3 incorporated the first Swiss caliber into the Swiss-based Maison’s lineup in 2022. The brand’s next installment, Chapter 4, continued to build on this trajectory with the BA111OD caliber BA.01. This movement was notably developed in collaboration with watchmaker Olivier Mory whose La Chaux de Fonds workshop has given rise to movements for brands across the industry, from Louis Erard to Yema. Then, BA111OD’s Chapter 5 went on to introduce the Maison’s first automatic chronograph thanks to the ETA Valjoux 7750. Next, Chapter Delta entered the lineup with a major shakeup thanks to another movement co-created with Olivier Mory, this time featuring a unique hypocycloidal mechanism. Instead of a standard central rotating hand, a satellite hour wheel rolls around a fixed central wheel. This creates a deltoid path where the hour dot naturally slows down and speeds up during its rotation cycle. Here, traditional circular minutes c...