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Results for GMT & World Time

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GMT & World Time

The traveller complications: Rolex's 1954 GMT hand and Louis Cottier's 1937 World Time mechanism.

Hands On With The Stylishly Monochromatic Hublot Classic Fusion Essential Grey 42mm Fratello
Hublot Classic Fusion Essential Grey Aug 6, 2024

Hands On With The Stylishly Monochromatic Hublot Classic Fusion Essential Grey 42mm

I really like Hublot. There, I said it! It’s not always the cool thing to say in the world of watches, but I’m not afraid to admit it. My favorite series is the brand’s Classic Fusion, which links back directly to the brand’s beginnings. The latest addition to the Classic Fusion series is a duo […] Visit Hands On With The Stylishly Monochromatic Hublot Classic Fusion Essential Grey 42mm to read the full article.

Introducing – The Grand Seiko 44GS “Kirazuri” US-Exclusive SBGA507 and SBGA509 Monochrome
Grand Seiko 44GS “Kirazuri” US-Exclusive SBGA507 Aug 5, 2024

Introducing – The Grand Seiko 44GS “Kirazuri” US-Exclusive SBGA507 and SBGA509

Grand Seiko’s Heritage collection is often synonymous with wonderfully textured and subtly coloured dials, including Monochrome’s all-time favourites, the Snowflake and the Shunbun. Reflecting the Japanese reverence for nature, many GS dials capture the colours and textures of natural landmarks and seasonal changes using time-honoured artisanal techniques. Created exclusively for the US market, Grand Seiko […]

3 Reasons The Rolex Day-Date 40 Convinced Me: A Very Rolexy Rolex Discussion Quill & Pad
Rolex Day-Date 40 Convinced Me Aug 5, 2024

3 Reasons The Rolex Day-Date 40 Convinced Me: A Very Rolexy Rolex Discussion

Rolex had never called out to Joshua Munchow as a watch that he must have or that would be the pinnacle of his collection. He thinks that this is because of the downsides to it being the most widely known watch brand in the world: forgeries and overexposure abound. So what is it about 2015's Rolex Day-Date 40 that turned him into a convert? Read on to find out.

Insight: The Geometric Efficiency of Escapements SJX Watches
Aug 5, 2024

Insight: The Geometric Efficiency of Escapements

Mechanical escapements remain the most fascinating and enticing field of horological study even in the 21st century. At its core, an escapement has a simple purpose: restore lost energy to the oscillating organ while regulating the discharge speed of the going train – thus allowing for time measurement. Straightforward as the concept is, executing an escapement well is a completely different affair. The escapement is perhaps the element of the mechanical movement that has undergone the most iterations since its invention. The reason is simple: escapements were, and remain, imperfect systems. In fact, the escapement is often the least efficient aspect of a mechanical movement in terms of energy transfer. That’s why watchmakers and engineers have devised innumerable variants in the search of the ideal escapement.  Explaining escapement efficiency In physics the efficiency of a system is the proportion of useful work done relative to the total work done by said system. The result, measured as a percentage, speaks to the energy conserved within the system. For example, an 80% efficiency means that 20% of the total available energy is lost, with the remaining 80% usefully conserved.  That said, an efficient escapement isn’t necessarily chronometrically-potent, since there are more criteria, apart from energy conservation, which reflect in a movement’s accuracy. The way in which escapement parts impulse to the balance, the proximity of the equilibrium point and the deg...

Rolex Watches For WWII POWs And The Great Escape Fratello
Rolex Watches Aug 2, 2024

Rolex Watches For WWII POWs And The Great Escape

World War II wreaked havoc around the globe. Many millions died, and at times, it must have felt like the end of the world as nations committed everything to defeating their enemies. Rolex also lent a hand in a small way by providing timepieces to prisoners of war (POWs). As a graduate history student, I […] Visit Rolex Watches For WWII POWs And The Great Escape to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Panerai Luminor Logo 44mm PAM01624 Monochrome
Panerai Luminor Logo 44mm PAM01624 Aug 2, 2024

Introducing – The New Panerai Luminor Logo 44mm PAM01624

When it comes to Panerai, we’ve seen the brand getting slightly out of track from time to time, with complex movements, smaller watches with low water-resistance and innovative materials that didn’t feel too convincing. So, when the brand introduces a nice-looking, straightforward model that does everything you want from a Panerai, we somehow have to […]

Two U.S. Exclusives from Grand Seiko Bring Back the Popular “Kirazuri” Dial Texture Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Bring Back Aug 1, 2024

Two U.S. Exclusives from Grand Seiko Bring Back the Popular “Kirazuri” Dial Texture

While Grand Seiko’s history stretches back to the 1960s, the brand’s story in America is quite a bit more contemporary. Grand Seiko, for years, was a true hidden gem in the watch world, an insider’s secret that you had to be fairly deep into the hobby to stumble across in the days before the watch collecting “boom” that we’re still living through. It wasn’t until the Grand Seiko Corporation of America was formed in 2018 that the brand really put down roots in the United States. Obviously, from that point forward, Grand Seiko’s footprint has grown considerably, and we’re way, way past the point where anyone could credibly claim they’re an under the radar enthusiast’s secret. But for those of us who can remember a time well before their flagship NYC boutique, and before these watches were easily accessible anywhere in the states, their periodic US exclusive releases carry special significance.  The latest US exclusive limited editions, references SBGA507 and SBGA509, come at a time when Grand Seiko is experiencing enormous growth and success in the United States. These watches have been designed as a tribute to the very first US exclusive Grand Seiko releases, a trio of limited editions inspired by kirazuri, a traditional method used in Japanese woodblock printing that incorporates mica powder for a sparkling effect. Those limited editions have proven to be quite popular and collectible, so the release of the pair seen here should please collectors who...

(Video) Incredible Watch Engineering from a Brand You Need to Know – Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Worn & Wound
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Aug 1, 2024

(Video) Incredible Watch Engineering from a Brand You Need to Know – Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force

The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force is not like other watches. At a glance, it clearly doesn’t look like them, but more importantly, it also works a bit differently too, featuring a first in watchmaking. To be clear, it still tells time with three hands, is operated by a crown, and has all of the movement components one expects to find on a watch, from a mainspring to an escapement. But it hides a very cool secret. Something that sets it apart. Hidden within is a little mechanism that helps it be more accurate. It’s not a complication, per say, as it doesn’t add any functions beyond time-telling, rather, it makes for a better watch. The Gravity Equal Force is one of a small handful of watches that attempts to address a fundamental issue with mechanical timepieces: variations in accuracy across their power reserves due to changing torque. As the power reserve diminishes, the torque, or force, decreases, the amplitude of the escapement falls, and the timekeeping becomes less accurate. Watchmakers have addressed this issue in various ways over the last few hundred years, which are often grouped together and referred to as “constant force” mechanisms. The Gravity Equal Force uses a simple, though uncommon, mechanism compared to typical “constant force” systems such as fuseé, chains, and remontoirs called a Geneva or Maltese cross. This mechanism prevents the watch mainspring from unwinding to the point where the torque and, thus, the accuracy really drop off. Ho...

Interview: Edouard Meylan on Building H. Moser & Cie. for the Long Term SJX Watches
Richard Mille Aug 1, 2024

Interview: Edouard Meylan on Building H. Moser & Cie. for the Long Term

Edouard Meylan took the helm of H. Moser & Cie. just over a decade ago, after the brand was acquired by his family. Together with his brother Bertrand, who leads the brand’s distribution, the chief executive of Moser has successfully turned around a brand that was in dire straits when the Meylans took charge. Industry talk at the time was that the brand’s founder, a dental implant billionaire, had sunk some CHF100 million into Moser. Today Moser is an independent brand that’s widely regarded to be on sound footing. Despite the slowdown that is gradually taking hold in the luxury-watch industry, Moser will in all likelihood enjoy a longevity, unlike many of its peers in the independent watchmaking space. Notably, neither Edouard Meylan nor his brother are watchmakers, instead they are entrepreneurs in the mould of Maximilian Büsser and Richard Mille. Mr Meylan’s business sensibilities are apparent, as we discover in the interview below. Amongst other things, he explains why the Streamliner is capped at a third of overall revenue, despite being a runaway bestseller. He also discusses the brand progressive vertical integration, as well as the possibility of expanding his family’s holdings beyond the duo of H. Moser & Cie. and Hautlence. Bertrand Meylan (left), and Edouard Meylan The interview was edited for clarity and length. SJX: Moser recently got into Formula 1 [with the Alpine F1 Team sponsorship], and I understand you just returned from a race. Edouard Meylan...