Deployant
Independent Watchmaking: Six of the Lesser Known Players in the Field
In this week's column, we dive into the rabbit hole of independent watchmaking, with a series of less-known yet remarkable independent watchmakers.
1,189 articles · 8 videos found · page 33 of 40
Deployant
In this week's column, we dive into the rabbit hole of independent watchmaking, with a series of less-known yet remarkable independent watchmakers.
Deployant
The Luminox Commando Raider is an unusually bright Luminox, which has mostly opted for black or darker colored dial variants. It provides a more vibrant variant for those who appreciate a little more fanfare but maybe less appreciated by those who want more tactical accessorizing. That said, the bright green is not a blocker for those who prefer a tactical color, since there is also a black strap variant.
Time+Tide
In my less than a decade of collecting, I’ve come to categorise watch brands into two distinct groups. The first consists of brands that simply make watches. There is no specific target audience. A little bit of everything is thrown on the plate for as many people as possible to enjoy. The second group of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Norqain Neverest Night Sight comes lumed up and ready for adventure appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Many of you are likely to have come across at least a few heated discussions of “finishing,” a topic that seems to fascinate, and divide, watch enthusiasts. Like many people, GaryG's starting point for serious watches was with a well-priced brand long known for its expertise in developing movements, justly viewed as offering good value for money – but not necessarily for the refinement of its movement finishing, at least on its less expensive pieces. Read on to discover what he has learned since then.
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Bit of an odd question but can anyone work out the relevance of the March 23, 2018? In a pretty baller move, on that day the football deity that is Zlatan Ibrahimovic was busy buying full-page ads in the Los Angeles Times to announce his signing for Major League Soccer’s LA Galaxy. The ad that read, … ContinuedThe post From Zlatan Ibrahimovic to Mark Wahlberg: 8 celebs wearing the hell out of a Rolex Rainbow Daytona appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The most striking thing about the Zeitwerk is its incredible look that combines much that is familiar about A. Lange & Söhne and some that is less familiar. The Zeitwerk was a watch to fit the times 12 years ago, a new era of complicated watchmaking, inside the Saxon brand and elsewhere. And now comes the Zeitwerk Date, a complicated sibling with new-and-improved technology.
Revolution
The Tudor Black Bay is universally loved and offers incredible diversity and great value. Incredibly the line is also less than 10 years old. We explore how this heritage diver hasn’t just ended up on the wrist of David Beckham, but also come to dominate the great Geneva-based brand’s catalogue and evolve beyond its retro-diver roots.
Time+Tide
Some would suggest that the perfect dress watch has a long list of criteria. Less than 40mm, no complications, made from a precious metal, thin, etc. Although this framework is a good recipe, there should definitely be room for bending the rules, and the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon in Pink Gold is a … ContinuedThe post Hands On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon in Pink Gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Oris has been on a bronze rampage over the past year, with attractive releases such as the limited edition Carl Brashear calibre 401 and “Fratelloris” Big Crown, as well as the standard production Cotton Candy collection of Sixty-Five divers. While the material has become less of a novelty move for manufacturers, I fully welcome the … ContinuedThe post Oris introduce their first ever Big Crown ProPilot Big Date in bronze appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
TAG Heuer looked to strip down their iconic Carrera to the essentials in the early 2000s to create a new entry-level proposition for the larger marketplace. The idea was to maintain the clean lines and aesthetic the collection built its name upon, but in a less complicated and more approachable fashion. Since its introduction decades … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Three Hands Collection refines its offering by going back to basics. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Some even cost less than a tent!
Time+Tide
This is the seventh and final video in a series of more conversational, and less directly watch-focused, videos that aim to provide richer telling of the Audemars Piguet story. Why is it called, You Can’t Ask That? These are questions and topics that don’t commonly get addressed in the interviews with either Lucas Raggi, the Research … ContinuedThe post You Can’t Ask That: The crazy (new) demand for complicated AP watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
This is the sixth video in a series of more conversational, and less directly watch-focused, videos that aim to provide richer telling of the Audemars Piguet story. Why is it called, You Can’t Ask That? These are questions and topics that don’t commonly get addressed in the interviews with either Lucas Raggi, the Research and … ContinuedThe post You Can’t Ask That: Cross-pollination across Audemars Piguet collections appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
This is the fifth video in a series of more conversational, and less directly watch-focused, videos that aim to provide richer telling of the Audemars Piguet story. Why is it called, You Can’t Ask That? These are questions and topics that don’t commonly get addressed in the interviews with either Lucas Raggi, the Research and … ContinuedThe post You Can’t Ask That: Developing the real estate of an Audemars Piguet watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
This is the fourth video in a series of more conversational, and less directly watch-focused, videos that aim to provide richer telling of the Audemars Piguet story. Why is it called, You Can’t Ask That? These are questions and topics that don’t commonly get addressed in the interviews with either Lucas Raggi, the Research and … ContinuedThe post You Can’t Ask That: Audemars Piguet explores new materials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Visiting the Biscioni Torino rally is less like joining a car meet, and more like stepping into a movie.
Time+Tide
You Can’t Ask That, Part 1: Why are AP collections always so controversial when they launch? Introducing a conversation series on YouTube… This is the first video in a series of more conversational, and less directly watch-focused, videos that aim to provide richer telling of the Audemars Piguet story. The title refers to how direct … ContinuedThe post You Can’t Ask That: A new conversation series with Audemars Piguet exploring all kinds of topics appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
I remember my plane ride back from Baselworld 2019. I was still coming off the high of my first show and all the beautiful new pieces I was fortunate enough to handle. (Which was a good thing because I needed to stay up if I wanted to avoid the jet-lag) As I tried my hardest … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Why I just can’t do vintage watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A vintage watch dealer based in Singapore, 2ToneVintage is staging an exhibition that goes down a road less travelled in modern watch collecting – vintage pocket watches instead of the usual fare of wristwatches. The exhibition is open to the public from now till September 30, 2021, but registration is required due to venue capacity limits. Titled The Beginning, the show is made up of several dozen impressive specimens that represent the diversity of pocket watches, ranging from an Ilbery enamel for the Chinese market to a one-off Audemars Piguet grand complication to a Patek Philippe world time with a cloisonné dial. A timeline on the walls of the exhibition charts the development of watchmaking Most of the watches on show belong to Ali Nael, an oil trader who switched careers to found 2ToneVintage. Consequently, a good portion of the exhibition reflects his taste in timepieces – many of the timepieces are mid 20th century watches with elegant two-tone dials in champagne or pink gold. Examples from the early- to mid-20th century dominate the exhibition, with Patek Philippe being the most numerous. The watches largely fall into two categories: simple, time-only watches with delicate details or enamelling, and the highly complicated. Time-only The time-only examples include the Patek Philippe ref. 650 “Flying Saucer” – named after its wide, flat bezel – from 1937 that has a handsome. two-tone contrasting dial. And standing out against the classical style of ...
Time+Tide
A blink of the eye is usually judged to take one tenth of a second to complete. In the 100m freestyle, Kyle Chalmers missed out on Olympic gold by considerably less than that. Arch-rival Caeleb Dressel of the United States pipped the Aussie swimmer to the finish by just 0.06 seconds. After reviewing the race … ContinuedThe post Olympic swimmer Kyle Chalmers: “This silver medal means so much more than my gold” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
When I spoke with Parmigiani chief executive Guido Terreni earlier this year, he described his plans for the brand’s product as having a “new direction for design, which is less ostentatious”, adding that Parmigiani will ” go back to the craft and excellence of the early days… with an eye on the world of today.” With the new Tonda PF collection launched to mark Parmigiani’s 25th anniversary, Mr Terreni appears to have pulled it off. Made up of four watches – ranging from a time-only to a pricey split-seconds – the Tonda PF is a synthesis of Parmigiani’s recent integrated-bracelet sports watch and its earlier Toric timepieces that were classical and Breguet inspired. The result is a sleek case and integrated bracelet matched with a refined yet minimalist guilloche dial featuring solid-gold hands and indices. Initial thoughts In a review two months ago, I wrote that liked the Tonda GT sports watch, though I thought the dial could be done better in several ways. The new Tonda PF does exactly that. It keeps everything that was good with the Tonda GT and enhances the rest. The dial has been stripped of superfluous elements while gaining a barleycorn engine turning. In fact, the dial is almost Moser-ish in its restraint, with the only marking being a small “PF” logo, which is made of solid 18k gold. And the upgrades in materials continue with the case, with all the steel model getting a knurled platinum bezel. And the movements have been enhanced. The...
Time+Tide
Often our readers really respond to watches that are released by the less usual suspects. Something different and more approachable, that still serves up a serious level of quality and value to the prospective buyer. Hanhart may not be a household name, but it’s a storied German watch manufacture, established in 1882, with a rich … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: the Hanhart PIONEER TwinControl #FliegerFriday Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A master of often extravagant, occasionally whimsical, jewelled timepieces, Cartier has just debuted the Mitten Watch. Despite the plain name, the Mitten Watch is a dramatic blend of the jeweller’s longstanding oval watch case – the Baignoire Allongée – and a half glove of woven rose gold, finished with a sprinkling of over 1,500 diamonds. The Mitten Watch is the first unique wristwatch in Clash [Un]limited, a riff on the Clash line up of edgy jewellery. A step upwards in both exclusivity and creativity, Clash [Un]limited is a collection of watches and jewellery made up entirely of limited editions or unique creations. The Baignoire Allongée camouflaged within the rose gold mesh Initial thoughts Watches as jewellery are unsurprisingly a specialty of Cartier’s. Past examples include watches shaped like an overflowing bathtub, inspired by animals, and of course the famous Crash. But still the Mitten Watch still manages to stand out – it is quite a special creation. Being a metallic half glove certainly makes the watch interesting in both form and function, but the execution really brings the idea to life. The Baignoire Allongée – French for “elongated bathtub” – is perhaps the ideal choice for the design, with its stretched but slim profile that’s prominent enough to be visible, yet sleek enough not to be obtrusive, against the mesh glove. And then there are the diamonds that cascade outwards from the watch, giving the mitten a dynami...
Hodinkee
All for less than $400.
Time+Tide
In 2021, the average watch consumer is less likely than ever to try on a watch before buying it. And it’s not because they’re filthy rich and see no reason for such an experience. It’s just that the logistics of the current industry often make such an endeavour damn near impossible. Even with hundreds of … ContinuedThe post Goodbye buyer’s remorse: How to buy a watch sight unseen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Nearly everything about the Zenith Chronomaster Sport has been surprising. “Game changer” is a phrase overused to a point of redundancy, but that’s what this watch has done for Zenith. From the day it dropped, it has raised eyebrows of watch lovers and shattered ceilings for the manufacture, who produces a staggering 50 times less … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: 5 surprising things we learned about the Zenith Chronomaster Sport, including why there’s a wait list appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Studio Ghibli is a Japanese national treasure in the world of anime with a vast output of traditional animated films. Each one is a very Japanese, deeply immersive experience populated by creatures that would never have made it past a Disney focus group and propelled by a decidedly less commercial set of values. The Seiko … ContinuedThe post The Seiko Presage Studio Ghibli Castle in The Sky offers vintage delights with an animated twist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Can you fly a plane? Nope, me neither. So why the hell are pilot’s watches so enduringly popular? More specifically how has the IWC Big Pilot retained such a relentless grip on the watch-buying psyche? The origin story of the IWC Big Pilot began in 1940 when the brand produced 1000 military navigators’ watches. These … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The history of the IWC Big Pilot and how it became a stone-cold classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Three months after Watches & Wonders 2021 (where it debuted the Triple Split in pink gold amongst others), A. Lange & Söhne is now back with more new releases, as is now the norm with watch fairs having gone online. Of the trio of new launches, the Saxonia Thin is the simplest, but no less striking. Clad in lively, blue aventurine glass and pink gold, the watch has a rich, sparkly aesthetic quite antithetical to the fuss-free style usually associated with the German watchmaker. Initial thoughts While flourishes like the aventurine-glass dial are uncommon for Lange in general, the sparkly glass dial is not new. In fact, the material was first used in the white gold Saxonia Thin back in 2017. The brand followed up with the same but with a black aventurine-glass dial last December, and then the pair of Little Lange 1 Moon Phase earlier this year. That’s four models with aventurine glass dials in as many years. The new model is a first, in that it matches the blue aventurine-glass dial with a pink gold case, giving the watch a warm aesthetic not found in earlier versions, or even the broader catalogue where the combination of pink gold and blue is found only on the recent Triple Split. This is no doubt a good news for collectors that already have everything from the brand and want something different. Still, the frequency of aventurine-glass inevitably chips away at its uniqueness. One nitpick I have about the watch is personal – I find the Saxonia Thin too wide and f...
Time+Tide
In the aftermath of Sunday’s Euro 2020 soccer final in London, Wembley descended into chaos. Even before the home crowd had watched England lose on penalties to Italy, some 2500 ticketless fans had invaded the stadium. After the game, things got ugly outside the ground as fights broke out and bottles were thrown. Amid the … ContinuedThe post F1 driver Lando Norris robbed of £40k Richard Mille outside Wembley appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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