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The 1985 Swatch Consolidation

How Nicolas Hayek\'s ASUAG/SSIH merger (1983) and Swatch brand launch (March 1983) rescued Swiss watchmaking from the quartz crisis.

Wiki · Guide
The Swatch Group

Largest Swiss watch employer (~17,000 staff). 18 brands from Breguet/Blancpain at the top to Swatch at entry. ETA SA + Nivarox-FAR. Hayek family controls.

A Guide to the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Sep 29, 2019

A Guide to the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019

Having only begun yesterday and open until October 13, the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Singapore is a watchmaking extravaganza – with free entry to the public – that’s already a box office hit on its opening weekend. Reputed to have cost some 20m Swiss francs, the vast historical and cultural showcase is the biggest Patek Philippe has staged to date, with 10 rooms spread over 1900m2, or over 20,000ft2. Pre-registrations for the event exceeded 35,000 people, with the total tally after two weeks expected to substantially surpass that; the first day alone saw some 4000 visitors pass through. The venue: Sands Theatre at Marina Bay Sands But as important as its broad appeal is the fact that the exhibition has drawn some of the world’s most important watch collectors to the city state. Outside of a factory event in Geneva, there probably hasn’t been this many custom Patek Philippe wristwatches together in one place. A custom dial ref. 5970J owned by the gentleman collector known as @horology_ancienne One of the major contemporary timepieces on show: the Star Calibre 2000 And arguably the most major watch of any sort in the exhibition: the landmark Calibre 89, the most complicated portable watch ever at the time of its creation in 1989 The six limited edition watches created especially for the event have garnered the most headlines, but the exhibition itself is worth a long visit because there’s a lot to see. It covers not just Patek Philippe, but...

“Somebody at the logistics company had stolen my watch” – or how Kelvin was reunited with his Blancpain  Time+Tide
Blancpain   Generally speaking watch Sep 3, 2019

“Somebody at the logistics company had stolen my watch” – or how Kelvin was reunited with his Blancpain 

Generally speaking, watch collectors fear three things: brick walls, unforeseen service costs, and the vagaries of international shipping. I’m not sure about points one and two, but Kelvin has certainly come up against the whims of global logistics conglomerates. But, before you get too stressed out, it’s OK – he won! Or got very lucky, … ContinuedThe post “Somebody at the logistics company had stolen my watch” – or how Kelvin was reunited with his Blancpain  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Exploring the Longines Skin Diver Watch Time+Tide
Longines Skin Diver Watch Editor’s note Aug 26, 2019

Exploring the Longines Skin Diver Watch

Editor’s note: Last night, Longines went live with their online shopping facility, and I’ve spent a bit of time browsing what’s on offer. And it should come as no surprise that I’m pretty into the ‘heritage’ section of the site. And one watch, which I saw last year and was really taken by, is the … ContinuedThe post Exploring the Longines Skin Diver Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Singapore Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Aug 5, 2019

The Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Singapore

In its fifth iteration, the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition will be hosted in Singapore for the first time. Placed to emphasise the importance of Southeast Asian clients and collectors for Patek Philippe, the show will offer public insight to a number of the artefacts that typically remain in Geneva at the Patek Philippe … ContinuedThe post The Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Singapore appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Chanel Boy.Friend Skeleton Watch SJX Watches
Chanel Boy.Friend Skeleton Watch Chanel Aug 1, 2019

Hands-On: Chanel Boy.Friend Skeleton Watch

Chanel has been slowly but steadily building up its line of mechanical watches powered by high-end, in-house movements. Most notable is the Monsieur de Chanel jump hour, created with the help of respected independent watchmaker Romain Gauthier, who sold a minority stake in his company to Chanel several years ago. Mr Gauthier also had a hand in last year’s Boy.Friend Skeleton, a top of the line variant of Chanel’s fashionable rectangular watch. Fancy mechanics are usually the preserve of men’s watches, but the Boy.Friend Skeleton boasts an impressively thoughtful, open-worked movement, the Calibre 3. In fact, the design and details of the in-house movement show that it was conceived from the ground up with a particular aesthetic goal in mind. It’s the only way to create a skeleton movement that looks as coherent as this does. An especially beautiful detail are the gilded bevels on the outermost frame of the base plate and the sub-seconds, which emphasise the finish and shape of the movement. Chanel circles The Calibre 3 has been constructed to incorporate a series of repeating, interlocking circles, a favourite motif of Chanel’s chief watch designer, Arnaud Chastaingt. The motif starts with the bridges and base plate, which are all brass finish with a frosted surface coated in black amorphous diamond-like carbon (ADLC). A telling indication of the attention to detail put into its construction lies in how the bridges are constructed. Instead of being a sing...

The legend of the first Bulgari Roma watch Time+Tide
Bulgari Roma watch Editor’s note Jul 27, 2019

The legend of the first Bulgari Roma watch

Editor’s note: This year, the Bulgari watch department celebrated its fifth year in a row of record-breaking watches with the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic. While some in the watch industry are still coming to terms with the horological success of a brand with roots in jewellery, Bulgari have actually been making watches since 1975. … ContinuedThe post The legend of the first Bulgari Roma watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Because who doesn’t want a solid gold DOXA dive watch?  Time+Tide
Doxa dive watch?  One Jul 24, 2019

Because who doesn’t want a solid gold DOXA dive watch? 

One of the most random, and awesome watches to emerge from the briny depths of Baselworld was the (very) limited edition Doxa SUB 200 T. On the surface this is a pretty standard vintage reissue, with a big 43mm case in that classic cushion shape, with that classic orange dial, in a dual register layout … ContinuedThe post Because who doesn’t want a solid gold DOXA dive watch?  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The detail is in the dial for Louis Vuitton’s Only Watch entry Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton s Only Watch entry Jul 10, 2019

The detail is in the dial for Louis Vuitton’s Only Watch entry

The other week, Nick showed us some of the highlight pieces from the upcoming Only Watch auction. There was a bunch of spicy pieces destined for charity greatness, but one watch kept drawing my attention - the Louis Vuitton Spin Time.  There are a few reasons why this watch stands out. Sure, there’s diamonds (3.33 … ContinuedThe post The detail is in the dial for Louis Vuitton’s Only Watch entry appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

If you’re interested in Geneva Seal standard watchmaking, this Louis Vuitton ‘high watch collection’ wants to meet you Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton high watch collection’ wants Jul 1, 2019

If you’re interested in Geneva Seal standard watchmaking, this Louis Vuitton ‘high watch collection’ wants to meet you

Louis Vuitton, the watchmaker. As time goes on, this statement is gaining credibility and intrigue. And intrigue is certainly the word I would use to describe this shoot, which involved the Time+Tide team flying to Queenstown in New Zealand with Louis Vuitton to explore the brand’s high watch collection 2019. The setting was, sparing all … ContinuedThe post If you’re interested in Geneva Seal standard watchmaking, this Louis Vuitton ‘high watch collection’ wants to meet you appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the Longines Legend Diver Watch 36mm “Tropical” SJX Watches
Longines Legend Diver Watch 36mm Jun 26, 2019

Introducing the Longines Legend Diver Watch 36mm “Tropical”

Longines rolled out a smaller version of its popular Legend Diver last year, one that is just 36mm in diameter and catered to ladies. Now it’s added a “tropical” dial model to the line-up, creating a dive watch for ladies with serious retro style. The first Legend Diver, which was made for men, was based on the twin-crown dive watches of the 1960s, specifically the refs. 7042, 7150 and 7594. The lower crown was for winding and setting, while the upper crown rotated the elapsed time bezel, a feature that has been reproduced in the modern day remake. Sometimes nicknamed “Super Compressor” after the type of water-resistant case made by case maker E. Piquerez (which also supplied other brands), the originals were notably large for watches of the era, measuring 42mm in diameter. The men’s Legend Diver is exactly the same size, but the mini Legend Diver is substantially smaller, just 36mm in diameter. Despite its reduced size, the Legend Diver 36mm manages to retain the look and proportions of its bigger brother. And with the new “tropical” dial, it also replicates the highly desirable discoloured dials of some vintage “Super Compressor” divers. The original watches all had glossy black dials, but exposure to sunlight over the decades caused some dials to fade, resulting in varied shades of brown. The new Legend Diver “tropical” replicates the aged dials found on some vintage examples, with a tobacco coloured centre that darkens towards the edges. T...

Hands-On: Monsieur de Chanel Pocket Watch SJX Watches
Chanel Pocket Watch Every year Chanel Jun 24, 2019

Hands-On: Monsieur de Chanel Pocket Watch

Every year Chanel debuts a handful of timekeeping objects that are sleekly monochromatic yet lavishly constructed of precious materials like gold and rock crystal. They are beautiful, expensive, and the sort of object that would look at home in a US$100m penthouse. And because there are enough such penthouses to go around, these objets d’art inevitably find owners every year. Last year’s collection of objects included the Monsieur de Chanel Chronosphere, a clock within a glass globe supported by blackened-bronze lions, which was a five-piece limited edition. But the collection also included the one of a kind Monsieur de Chanel Pocket Watch suspended in a jewelled stand, an object that is simultaneously discreet and extravagant. Photo – Chanel Although the pocket watch and its stand retail for almost US$800,000, it is discreet to a fault.  All of the materials within are precious, but the entire object is almost monochromatic. The pocket watch can be removed and carried, but is more likely to function as the ultimate desk clock. Standing about 25cm, or 10in, high, the stand is polished 18k white gold and panelled in glossy obsidian, a black, volcanic rock. And while it does not look the part, the sculpted lion is also 18k gold, but coated entirely in smooth, black Hyceram, a composite of ceramic and polymer. The diamonds within the stand are substantial, but subtle – the lion’s paw rests on a 18k gold sphere covered in baguette diamonds. The big ca...

Nims is not your average ambassador – the record-breaking speed climber who wears a Bremont dive watch at the top of the world Time+Tide
Bremont dive watch Jun 13, 2019

Nims is not your average ambassador – the record-breaking speed climber who wears a Bremont dive watch at the top of the world

Brand ambassadors are an indelible part of the watch landscape. Fundamentally, an ambassador is someone - typically with a profile - who has a relationship with a watch brand, and endorses them. That’s the broad brush stroke picture, but the reality is much more diverse. An ambassador could be a Hollywood A-lister who wore a watch … ContinuedThe post Nims is not your average ambassador – the record-breaking speed climber who wears a Bremont dive watch at the top of the world appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The story of the Omega watch in Dunkirk is perfect Sunday reading for watch people Time+Tide
Omega watch Jun 9, 2019

The story of the Omega watch in Dunkirk is perfect Sunday reading for watch people

Editor’s note: In the pantheon of great watch performances on screen, Tom Hardy’s Omega in Dunkirk is up there. When I first saw the movie at an IMAX theatre in Melbourne, I was that idiot taking shots of the screen when it appeared. I had to know the story of the model – was it a vintage … ContinuedThe post The story of the Omega watch in Dunkirk is perfect Sunday reading for watch people appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.