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SJX Podcast: Best of 2025 – Complications SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s 270th Dec 26, 2025

SJX Podcast: Best of 2025 – Complications

Episode 22 of the SJX Podcast looks back at the complicated watches that emerged in 2025, a banner year that saw major brands deliver ambitious and record-setting complications. Several anniversaries, including Vacheron Constantin’s 270th and Audemars Piguet’s 150th, resulted in inspired releases. Big brands delivered big hits, from Lange’s black enamel minute repeater perpetual calendar to Blancpain’s Grande Double Sonnerie, which feature a four-note melody composed by Kiss drummer Eric Singer. For its part, Chopard finally gave its sapphire gongs the platform they always deserved with the Grand Strike, the brand’s first-ever grande sonnerie. And while Audemars Piguet’s big anniversary was headlined by the RD#5, the brand’s crown-operated perpetual calendar was another important addition to the field of complications this year. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

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Highlights: Complications on Bracelets at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nov 24, 2025

Highlights: Complications on Bracelets at Christie’s Hong Kong

The uniform of high complications almost invariably includes a leather strap; a metal bracelet remains an uncommon pairing with, say, a grande sonnerie. Christie’s upcoming Hong Kong auction, however, brings an unexpected abundance of complicated watches on bracelets for collectors who prefer metal, including notable examples from Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Söhne. This season’s sale is anchored by two major private collections, most prominently the second part of The Chronicle Collection, the first half of which was dispersed earlier in the spring. The consignor began collecting in the 1990s, a fact reflected in the depth of neo-vintage highlights throughout the catalogue. Lot 2442 - Patek Philippe ref. 3448⁄8 with Possibly Unique Ruby Dial The Patek Philippe ref. 3448 was the first self-winding perpetual calendar produced in series. According to movement numbers, it is likely 586 were made in total - this lug-less example was one of the first made. Beyond its historical interest, the ref. 3448 is underpinned by one of – if not the – most beautiful automatic movements ever made: the cal. 27-460 Q. Looks aside, it was one of the most technically competent automatics of its era, with an overcoil hairspring, free-sprung balance, and bi-directional winding using a cam and pawl system. Atop this worthy base calibre, the ref. 3448 adds the iconic windows perpetual calendar by none other than Victorin Piguet. The ‘/8’ in ref. 3448/8 suffix denotes the style ...

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First Look – The new Kallinich Claeys Einser Zentralsekunde Voyager Edition Monochrome
Nov 17, 2025

First Look – The new Kallinich Claeys Einser Zentralsekunde Voyager Edition

Founded by former A. Lange & Söhne watchmakers Johannes Kallinich and Thibault Claeys, indie watchmaking atelier Kallinich Claeys has quickly become one of the most interesting names in contemporary Glashütte watchmaking. Their debut watch, the Einser Zentralsekunde, introduced a clear design approach and a thoughtfully constructed, in-house movement with central seconds and a linear power reserve […]

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Introducing – The All-New Moritz Grossmann Perpetual Calendar Monochrome
Moritz Grossmann Nov 11, 2025

Introducing – The All-New Moritz Grossmann Perpetual Calendar

One of the founding fathers of watchmaking in Glashütte, together with F.A. Lange, Moritz Grossmann also established the German School of Watchmaking. This important name returned in 2008, when trained watchmaker Christine Hutter founded a manufacture of classically German, high-end watches. For its 17th anniversary, the brand is about to release a first: a watch […]

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First Look – The new Petermann Bédat Reference 1825, The Indie Brand’s Take on the Three-Hand Watch Monochrome
Petermann Bédat Oct 15, 2025

First Look – The new Petermann Bédat Reference 1825, The Indie Brand’s Take on the Three-Hand Watch

Petermann Bédat is an independent watchmaking brand based in Renens, near Lausanne. The founders, Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat, first met at the Geneva Watchmaking School. After gaining experience at prestigious houses such as A. Lange & Söhne, Harry Winston and Andersen Genève, or restoring vintage timepieces, they decided to create their own brand. The […]

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SJX Podcast: AP Reinvents the Chronograph, Big Brands vs. Indies, and VC CEO SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Oct 5, 2025

SJX Podcast: AP Reinvents the Chronograph, Big Brands vs. Indies, and VC CEO

On episode 12 of the SJX Podcast, SJX shares his hands-on impressions of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5, the fifth and final watch from the brand’s R&D; skunkworks. We also address listener questions about the (great) leadership at Vacheron Constantin, and whether brands like A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin can gain market share from independents – why not? Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

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Introducing – New Sector Dials for the Moritz Grossmann Benu Power Reserve Monochrome
Moritz Grossmann Oct 2, 2025

Introducing – New Sector Dials for the Moritz Grossmann Benu Power Reserve

Ferdinand Adolph Lange was the founding father of Glashütte’s proud watchmaking tradition, attracting like-minded entrepreneurs and suppliers of parts to the region. One of these was Lange’s good friend, Moritz Grossmann, who set up shop in 1854. Revived in 2008 by Christine Hutter, Moritz Grossmann is admired today for its original, ultra-refined, understated, beautifully crafted […]

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SJX Podcast: Best of Geneva Watch Days SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Sep 16, 2025

SJX Podcast: Best of Geneva Watch Days

On episode 10 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon Moore discuss the highlights and hands-on impressions from Geneva Watch Days, including the Greubel Forsey QP Balancier, Lange 1815 Tourbillon Black Enamel, Gérald Genta’s new Minute Repeater, and the latest perpetual calendars from Audemars Piguet. We also discuss the significance of Tag Heuer’s carbon hairsprings; after a short-lived launch in 2019, the brand has taken a mulligan and relaunched this technology with a key difference that might make carbon hairsprings a real alternative to silicon. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

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DUG: The New Kids on the Block in Glashütte Worn & Wound
Nomos s workshops Jul 8, 2025

DUG: The New Kids on the Block in Glashütte

On a warm and sunny Saturday in June, I visited the inauguration ceremony for DUG workshop. DUG (Deutsche Uhrenmanufaktur Glashütte) is the eleventh company to establish itself in the watchmaking town of Glashütte. The last brand to open a workshop in this town were young independent duo, Kallinich Claeys.  The DUG workshop is just around the corner from Lange HQ, across from Glashütte Watch Museum, and on the steep road leading up to one of Nomos’s workshops. The building previously belonged to C.H. Wolf, and there is still some old signage around the building. It is a modern and fairly large building for a micro-brand to occupy. It has tall ceilings and a row of new watchmaker benches along with a few administrative and conference rooms. It could easily host a medium size watch company. The DUG workshop Toni Brodführer, founder and Managing Director of DUG, is planning to move in there before the end of the year with three watchmakers. He is also open to sharing the space with other small watch companies. At the opening ceremony, I was pleased to run into Thibault Claeys and Johannes Kallinich, who were impressed by the building and seemed to like what Toni is doing. Before I get back to my observations about the brand and the newest watches, I interviewed Toni to get some background and context of owning and operating a new micro-brand in Glashütte.  Toni’s journey of DUG began with a personal passion for watches. He had been fascinated with watches since his...

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Christie’s to Sell Single-Owner Collection of 21st Century High Horology SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin are well represented but Mar 27, 2025

Christie’s to Sell Single-Owner Collection of 21st Century High Horology

Christie’s is continuing with its streak of single-owner watch collections into the 2025 season with Stories in Time. Made up of 160 watches – including a sizeable number of independents – the sale is the culmination of three decades of collecting by one collector. Representing 47 brands from A. Lange & Söhne to Voutilainen, the collection represents 21st century horology in all its diversity, capturing the evolution of contemporary watchmaking as it developed from the 1990s onwards. The watchmaking landscape Establishment brands like Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin are well represented, but equally the independent watchmakers and brands out of the mainstream. While the brand with the largest number of pieces in the collection is Patek Philippe at 20, the second most numerous brand is De Bethune at 18. The line-up also includes nine watches by Greubel Forsey and seven from MB&F;, as well as a few examples of the Harry Winston Opus series. One of the nine Greubel Forsey watches in the sale, the Double Tourbillon 30° Edition Historique in platinum with an estimate of US$120,000-220,000 Almost every watch in the collection is in pristine condition and accompanied by the original boxes and paperwork, reflecting the collector’s meticulous approach. This collection will be offered at Christie’s sales across the world over the course of 2025, in Hong Kong, Dubai, Geneva, and New York in the eight auctions during the spring and autumn sales.  

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Exploring Evergreens: Thomas Goes Hands-On With The Original Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3700/1A Fratello
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref 3700/1A After Mar 19, 2025

Exploring Evergreens: Thomas Goes Hands-On With The Original Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3700/1A

After spending time with the Rolex Submariner ref. 5508 and the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph, I get yet another chance to explore a personal grail watch today. Yes, life can be good when you have special access to some of the world’s finest watches. This time, I got to strap on a 1978 […] Visit Exploring Evergreens: Thomas Goes Hands-On With The Original Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3700/1A to read the full article.

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A Contemporary Watch Collector Goes Vintage with Omega, Patek Philippe and Jaeger-LeCoultre Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Feb 1, 2025

A Contemporary Watch Collector Goes Vintage with Omega, Patek Philippe and Jaeger-LeCoultre

To my longtime friends in the watch hobby, and perhaps to regular readers here as well, the mention of my name may conjure up a number of connotations: patron of the independents, fan of A. Lange & Söhne, admirer of Patek Philippe grand complications, and longtime customer of Jaeger-LeCoultre, among other characterizations more or less favorable. But vintage?

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Best of 2024: Complications SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Dec 23, 2024

Best of 2024: Complications

Perhaps echoing the paucity of highlights in indie watchmaking, the best complications of 2024 were not numerous, but those that stood out were outstanding. Vacheron Constantin, for instance, unveiled the most complicated watch ever, while Bovet solved the longstanding problem of summer time across continents in an enormous (and enormously expensive) wristwatch. Here’s the team’s take on the best complications of the year. A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Handwerkskunst – Brandon Moore The iconic Datograph turned 25 this year, and collectors were treated to three different limited edition variants to mark the occasion. We were first introduced to the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” and the Datograph Up/Down 25th Anniversary at Watches & Wonders, but Lange was arguably saving the best for last: the first Datograph to receive the brand’s artisanal Handwerkskunst treatment. Featuring a hand-engraved tremblage dial and limited to just 25 pieces, the Datograph Handwerkskunst is a fitting way to celebrate a quarter-century of being best-in-class. While not particularly creative, this very-limited edition captures both the magic of Lange and its Datograph perfectly. Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1 – SJX The introduction to our story on the watch sums it up best: “The Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1 is an ingenious solution to an age-old problem: accounting for daylight saving time (also known as summer time) in a multi-timezone wristwatch… the solution is e...

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Hands-On: the Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward who developed their in-house Nov 6, 2024

Hands-On: the Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour

The jump hour is a nearly criminally underrepresented type of watch. These semi-digital mechanical devices simplify time telling through more complex movements, a perfect example of watchmaking’s inherent and lovable absurdity. Their unique displays create different layout challenges, leading to unique and fantastic designs, from the sci-fi Space One to the extravagant A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk. As such, a new jump hour is always cause for celebration and temptation. However, the challenge for brands that want to enter the jumping game is a lack of readily available movements and modules. So, what’s a brand to do? For Fears, this is where the power of collaboration comes into play. By teaming up with the industrious Christopher Ward, who developed their in-house jump hour module, the JJ001, back in 2010-11, Fears could access an already proven but exclusive solution. In 2023, they debuted their jump hour as the highly limited Alliance 1 for members of the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers, and in 2024, their follow-up mainline version, the Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour, which we reported on here. I’m all for watches that provide different and uncommon experiences, whether it be the smooth glide and accuracy of a Spring Drive, the hourly dinging of the Bel Canto, the central minute counter of a Lemania 5100, or the decentralized displays of a regulator. Jump hours stand out even among that crowd by fundamentally changing how time is read. Though most akin t...

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Accessible Flyback Chronographs: Five Value Propositions Well Under €10K From Longines, Sinn, Frederique Constant, And More Fratello
Frederique Constant Sep 12, 2024

Accessible Flyback Chronographs: Five Value Propositions Well Under €10K From Longines, Sinn, Frederique Constant, And More

The flyback function is arguably the epitome of technicality in sports watches, and it can be an expensive collection goal. Many of you will know the snap-quick function from Patek Philippe and über-horology from the likes of A. Lange & Söhne. However, as manufacturing techniques improve, so does the possibility of (comparatively) affordable flyback chronographs. […] Visit Accessible Flyback Chronographs: Five Value Propositions Well Under €10K From Longines, Sinn, Frederique Constant, And More to read the full article.

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Bremont Introduces the Limited Edition Broadsword Recon Bronze Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s there was one Aug 7, 2024

Bremont Introduces the Limited Edition Broadsword Recon Bronze

Readers, I’d like to invite you to step back in time. Let’s go all the way back to the middle of April of 2024, in the days following this year’s Watches and Wonders. Amidst much content creation by many a watch media figure, there was a single story for which a consensus view began to emerge. While opinions might have differed on the viability of the new Lange Super Watch or the retail pricing of those gorgeous manually wound Grand Seikos, there was one brand on which just about everyone shared a take. Coming out of the fair, just about all of us agreed that Bremont was in trouble. There’s no need to dwell here on what we’ve already covered, except to say that the reaction to the new look at Bremont was the rare occasion in the watch media landscape where it felt like (almost) everyone was getting their unfiltered digs in. That usually doesn’t happen in our space. The reason is simple, at least at Worn & Wound, and that’s because here we tend to cover stuff we like. We want to share our enthusiasm for the things that get us excited, new releases included. But Bremont rebranding as they did at the biggest watch event in the world was newsworthy in a way that couldn’t be ignored, and we had to (as we always do) cover it honestly. We saw the watches in the metal, and gave our reactions, as did many others, and the many stories that were filed speak for themselves.  It’s been several months since Bremont debuted their new look, and the storm has died down c...

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Glashütte Original Spezialist SeaQ Chronograph Review Teddy Baldassarre
Glashutte Original May 30, 2024

Glashütte Original Spezialist SeaQ Chronograph Review

While it was established relatively recently, in 1994, Glashütte Original can legitimately trace its lineage as far back as 1845, which also happens to be the year that watchmaking essentially arrived as an industry in Germany. As I cover in much greater detail in this article, a full century of horological tradition, centered in the town of Glashütte in the state of Saxony, came to an end with Germany’s defeat in World War II. It was replaced by a new era in which a state-owned conglomerate of once-independent heritage watch manufacturers, the Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe or GUB, shifted focus from artisanal techniques and luxuriously decorative timepieces to mass-produced tool watches for military and civilian customers. Many of the watches produced in the GUB era - spanning the Cold War years from 1951 up to the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1990 - are largely forgettable, but Glashütte Original, the luxury-watch firm that emerged from the dissolution of the GUB, has cherry-picked the most interesting and memorable of those utilitarian timepieces, produced in the late 1960s and ‘70s, for modern reimagining in its “Spezialist” series. Serving as the base model for the Spezialist models is a single, now-collectible divers’ sport watch from 1969, the Spezimatic Type RP TS 200, which was the first dive watch produced in Germany (technically, at the time, East Germany) that met the international ISO 6425 standard. Glashütte Original paid tribute to the fondly rem...

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Hands-on – The Fascinating and Technical Moritz Grossmann Backpage Green Monochrome
Glashütte Original Jan 8, 2024

Hands-on – The Fascinating and Technical Moritz Grossmann Backpage Green

Karl Moritz Grossmann, a prominent figure from the 19th century, was the founder and director of the German School of Watchmaking. In our contemporary era, in 2007, Christine Hutter, a skilled watchmaker with experience at Maurice Lacroix, Glashütte Original and A. Lange & Söhne, acquired the right to use the name “Moritz Grossmann“. In 2008, […]

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21 Best Everyday Watches For All Price Ranges in 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 1, 2024

21 Best Everyday Watches For All Price Ranges in 2026

The definition of an everyday watch can, of course, be highly subjective, based on one’s individual needs, tastes, and budget (I have met people who rock A. Lange & Söhne, F.P. Journe, and even Richard Mille as their “everyday” brands). But most of us can get behind Teddy’s idea that an everyday watch is one that combines versatility with specifications suited for day-to-day needs; it can be dressed up or down, is highly legible in most conditions, and is water resistant enough for worry-free daily wear (i.e., rated to at least 50 meters). As a timepiece that will spend much more time actually on the wrist than in a safe, it should also be affordable. Hence, our selection of the 21 best everyday watches starts under $500 and tops out under $10,000. Citizen Tsuyosa Price: $450, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 9.1mm, Lug to Lug: 45mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Movement: Automatic Caliber 8210 Best known for its light-powered Eco-Drive movements, Japan’s Citizen also offers a lineup of appealing mechanical timepieces, including the recently introduced NJ015 automatic series, nicknamed “Tsuyosa,” a Japanese word meaning “strength.” Speaking to the contemporary trend towards eye-catching colorful dials, Tsuyosa models offer five, all with a subtle sunburst finish: blue, yellow, green, turquoise, and black. The round, chamfered steel cases measure 40mm in diameter and 11.7mm thick, with an unconventionally positioned crown at 4 o’clock for...

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Reflecting on Ten Years of the Sensational De Bethune DB28 – Reprise Quill & Pad
Audemars Piguet Oct 14, 2023

Reflecting on Ten Years of the Sensational De Bethune DB28 – Reprise

It’s been more than ten years since the De Bethune DB28 won the Aiguille d’Or at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève. Effectively the “Best Picture” at the “Oscars” of watchmaking, this recognition placed De Bethune among the elite company of Aiguille d’Or winners such as F.P. Journe, Greubel Forsey, Breguet, Audemars Piguet, A. Lange & Söhne, and Patek Philippe. A decade removed from its Hollywood ending, the DB28 remains a grail watch in every sense.

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