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GMT & World Time

The traveller complications: Rolex's 1954 GMT hand and Louis Cottier's 1937 World Time mechanism.

Weekend watch spotting with JR: #3 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko 9F quartz GMT SBGN005 Jan 19, 2020

Weekend watch spotting with JR: #3

This weekend, I wore my DOXA SUB 200 130th Anniversary and went out in search of what other like-minded individuals had decided to attach to their wrist, and this is what I found out in the wild: Kosta’s Grand Seiko 9F quartz GMT SBGN005 Kosta’s passion for timepieces is still very much in its infancy … ContinuedThe post Weekend watch spotting with JR: #3 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Weekend watch spotting with JR: featuring the Rose and the Crown Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay GMT Danny Jan 12, 2020

Weekend watch spotting with JR: featuring the Rose and the Crown

This weekend, I wore my Swatch Sistem51 Hodinkee Generation 1986 and went out in search of what other like-minded individuals had decided to attach to their wrist, and this is what I found out in the wild: Danny’s Tudor Black Bay GMT Danny has lusted after Rolex’s GMT-Master II Ref.126710BLRO ever since it was first … ContinuedThe post Weekend watch spotting with JR: featuring the Rose and the Crown appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Chronograph Singapore 2019 Ref. 5930G (With Price) SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Sep 27, 2019

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Chronograph Singapore 2019 Ref. 5930G (With Price)

To mark the Singapore Grand Exhibition, which is now into its second day, Patek Philippe has unveiled a special-edition World Time Chronograph ref. 5930G-011 for the Southeast Asian market. Limited to 300 pieces, the watch has a white gold case paired with a smoked, red guilloche dial that darkens towards the edges. It features a dark grey city disc, on which “Singapore” replaces “Beijing” for the time zone of GMT+8. The rest of the watch is identical to that of the standard version that was first unveiled in 2016 with a white gold case paired with a blue dial. It measures 39.5mm wide and 12.8mm in height, which is rather impressive considering it houses a full-rotor movement, with a vertical-clutch, column-wheel flyback chronograph as well as a world time module. A corrector pusher at 10 o’clock advances the cities disc, hour hand and 24-hour scale in one-hour increments. All that needs to be done is to set the city corresponding to the local time zone to the 12 o’clock position. The local time will be indicated by the hands while the time in all other time zones can be read off the 24-hour scale. The 30-minute counter for the chronograph is located at six o’clock, while the seconds scale for the chronograph is located between the cities and 24-hour discs. Visible through the sapphire case back, the CH 28-520 HU movement is based on the CH 28-520 chronograph caliber, controlled by a vertical clutch, with the addition of a world time module based on the co...

SPOTTED! BY AG: December 2018 - Holiday Edition Time+Tide
Rolex GMT-Master II ‘Coke’ Irwin’s Dec 23, 2018

SPOTTED! BY AG: December 2018 - Holiday Edition

Wow, 2018 really got away from us. I mean, I can’t believe we’re just moments away from wrapping up one hell of a year. In between the expected December chaos, I spotted a couple of nice watches. Here they are. Irwin’s Rolex GMT-Master II ‘Coke’ Irwin’s recently acquired Rolex GMT-Master reference 16710 from the late … ContinuedThe post SPOTTED! BY AG: December 2018 – Holiday Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: How to be a watch spotter, not a watch stalker Time+Tide
Tudor GMT - without looking Jun 5, 2018

EDITOR’S PICK: How to be a watch spotter, not a watch stalker

Editor’s note: Today we revisit a golden oldie from Andrew that’s as relevant today as the day it was penned: how to casually work out if someone’s wearing the new Tudor GMT - without looking like a massive creep. We can all learn something here, so read on … Watch spotting. Don’t be shy, we … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: How to be a watch spotter, not a watch stalker appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Orient Mako Gets a GMT for the First Time in Five Cool Colors WatchRider
Oris ed UK retailer Aug 20, 2026

Orient Mako Gets a GMT for the First Time in Five Cool Colors

Orient has given its long-running Mako sports watch a GMT function for the first time. Five references have appeared for the Autumn/Winter 2026 collection, comprising four regular models and one 4,000-piece limited edition. The watches were listed as in stock by an authorised UK retailer on 20 August 2026. Orient’s own global catalogue and press archive had not yet added them at the time of writing, so broader regional availability remains unconfirmed. A Larger Mako With Familiar Equipment The Mako GMT uses a 42.8 mm case made from brushed and polished 316L stainless steel. It measures 49.5 mm from lug to lug and 13.4 mm thick, making this a substantial watch rather than a compact travel companion. Each version has a sapphire crystal, a solid caseback and 20 bar, or 200 metres, of water resistance. The three-link steel bracelet has solid end pieces and a deployant clasp. Around the dial is a 120-notch unidirectional bezel carrying a 24-hour scale instead of the usual elapsed-time markings. The New F6P22 Automatic GMT Calibre Inside is Orient’s F6P22 automatic GMT movement. The current listings state a power reserve of approximately 40 hours, hacking seconds and an accuracy range of +25 to -15 seconds per day. The movement drives the normal hour, minute and seconds hands, the date at 3 o’clock and a fourth central hand that completes one turn every 24 hours. There is an important limitation. The GMT hand cannot be adjusted independently on this first version. To show ...

Complicated Collectors: J. B. Champion Jr. SJX Watches
Ming he had “used time Aug 17, 2026

Complicated Collectors: J. B. Champion Jr.

On October 25, 1967, Joe Ben “J. B.” Champion Jr. sat silently through the murder trial of a client named E. K. Bearden. It was the second time the prominent Texas defence attorney had conducted himself in this fashion in just a few months, claiming he had “used time to [his] advantage” during the trial. But no great strategy emerged and both clients were found guilty. Champion’s mysterious behaviour was concerning for a man who once objected to being called a “pretty good” lawyer, retorting “Pretty good? I’m the best!” The apparent carelessness of his courtroom antics contradict the fastidious elements of his personality that are apparent from his single-minded approach to watch collecting. Ardmore to Dallas Champion was born on August 16, 1917 in Dallas, Texas. His father’s oil royalties left him independently wealthy; he never needed to practise law to support himself, but did so anyway. Friends attributed it to the same competitive streak that had made him a regionally ranked tennis player before he turned to the courtroom. He stood an imposing six-foot-two inches by one account, and was accustomed to winning. He studied law at the University of Oklahoma and joined the family firm, Champion, Champion and Wallace, in Ardmore, commuting from a townhouse in Dallas. The Chateaubriand restaurant in Dallas. Image – SJX composite/Wikimedia By all accounts, he was a punctual man, and his evenings ran on a schedule as fixed as anything at the Geneva Obse...

Upcoming Casio MTP-E740 Series: Specs, Price, and Why It’s a £85 Steal WatchRider
Seiko Time Sonar Casio has Aug 16, 2026

Upcoming Casio MTP-E740 Series: Specs, Price, and Why It’s a £85 Steal

The upcoming Casio MTP-E740-4AV and MTP-E740-2A1V are vintage-inspired watches launching soon for just £85. Proving that budget-friendly watches don’t have to be boring, these new releases feature a stunning see-through dial design that punches well above its price bracket. A Striking Translucent Dial Design The standout feature of the new MTP-E740 series is undoubtedly its dial. Drawing heavy inspiration from the classic 1970s Seiko Time Sonar, Casio has incorporated a transparent face that reveals the mechanical day and date wheels underneath.   Usually, entry-level Casio day-date models hide this calendar mechanism behind a solid face. By exposing it, Casio gives these models a playful, layered, and premium look that is rarely seen at this price point.   The Standout Models: Orange and Navy While the collection features several colors, two models steal the show:  MTP-E740-4AV (Orange):   if you want a watch that immediately catches the eye, the MTP-E740-4AV is the undisputed star of the collection. The bright orange colorway perfectly complements the retro-futuristic transparent dial, giving the watch a summery, high-energy feel. Orange dials have historically been associated with dive watches and motorsport chronographs, but putting it on an everyday stainless steel piece gives it a remarkably fresh vibe.  The bright, vibrant orange dial is an absolute head-turner. It provides a bold contrast against the stainless steel case and makes the exposed cal...

Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The Hodinkee Happy Hour [July 2026] Hodinkee
Christopher Ward C60 Trident GMT 300 Aug 7, 2026

Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The Hodinkee Happy Hour [July 2026]

Another Hodinkee Happy Hour, another evening well spent. Last week, we returned to the Watches of Switzerland boutique in SoHo for our monthly community meetup. Some attendees were meeting for the first time, while others picked up right where they left off. Before long, the room was buzzing with conversation over local beers from our friends at Grotta and slices from Nolita's Upside Pizza. As the night unfolded, attendees passed their personal watches around the room while sharing fond stories about them. From vintage gems to new releases like the DOXA SUB Army 200T for Hodinkee Limited Edition, there were more than enough interesting watches to get your hands on and talk about. Scroll through the photos below for a recap of the night and watches that made the rounds. If you joined us, thank you for coming. If not, we're hosting the next one at the end of August. Be the first to know when RSVPs open by following the Hodinkee Instagram! DOXA SUB Army 200T for Hodinkee Limited Edition.  Right, Deputy Editor Tim Jeffreys wearing the DOXA SUB Army 200T. A first-generation A. Lange & Söhne Datograph, on Wellendorf bracelet, and an A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph. A Grand Seiko Elegance Collection "Skyflake" and a Christopher Ward C60 Trident GMT 300. The CWC x The Grey Nato Limited Edition. A vintage Rolex GMT Master "Pepsi."  Movado Calendograf with a 14k yellow gold case. Head of Video David Aujero test driving the platinum A. Lange & Söhne Datograph. A Rolex GMT-...

Andreas Strehler’s Säntis is an Affordable Indie World Time SJX Watches
Mar 27, 2026

Andreas Strehler’s Säntis is an Affordable Indie World Time

Andreas Strehler is expanding his more accessible Strehler brand with the Säntis, a world time wristwatch that’s an evolution of the Sirna time-only from 2023. The Säntis continues with the style established by the Sirna, including the patterned titanium dial and tonneau-esque case. Powered by the same in-house automatic calibre as the Sirna, the Säntis is a classic Cottier-style world time with a cities disc and 24-hour ring. Unsurprisingly given Andreas Strehler’s well-known technical proficiency, the world time mechanism is integrated well into the calibre and is easily set entirely via the crown. Initial thoughts The Säntis is a traditional Cottier-style world time, but one executed well and as practical as a Cottier-style world time can be. While the Säntis is the first Strehler world time, it is not the first travel wristwatch by Andreas Strehler, who has made several in the past, including a bespoke commission. The watch exemplifies Andreas Strehler’s strength, which is high quality watchmaking and complications, but made more affordable under his Strehler label. Though produced in slightly larger numbers than his high-end watches, Strehler watches are still high-quality industrial haute horlogerie that represent strong value. The styling is a little generic, especially at a distance, but as with the Sirna, the watch reveals its details up close, giving it more personality. The patterned dial and hands are distinctive, though the dial is almost anonymous:...

In-Depth - The Louis Vuitton Escale Collection Expands with World Time, Twin Zone and Repeater Complications Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Escale Collection Expands Jan 19, 2026

In-Depth - The Louis Vuitton Escale Collection Expands with World Time, Twin Zone and Repeater Complications

The Escale Collection is a classic of Louis Vuitton with a distinctive design, strongly inspired by the idea of travel and by LV Trunks. The Escale collection was mostly known for its world timers with handsome dials decorated with micro-painting and flags, or dual-time displays. Which makes sense, considering the name of the watch, which […]

Jacob & Co.’s God of Time is the World’s Fastest Tourbillon SJX Watches
Jacob & Co. s God Jan 14, 2026

Jacob & Co.’s God of Time is the World’s Fastest Tourbillon

To celebrate founder Jacob Arabo’s 60th birthday, Jacob & Co. has upped the ante for the tourbillon with the God of Time that’s styled on the Greek myth of time, but more importantly features the world’s fastest turning tourbillon that completes one revolution every four seconds – making it 15 times quicker than a conventional one-minute tourbillon. Initial thoughts The God of Time watch is a true showpiece of modern, extravagant high horology, blending both striking visual decoration and engineering prowess. The theme of time and its associated deity is built around the record setting tourbillon, the fastest of its kind. While we’re familiar with the perpetual quest for the thinnest watch, apparently the race towards the fastest tourbillon is also a thing. Much like most Jacob & Co. watches, the God of Time is loud and a large 44.5 mm in diameter. The leitmotif of Greek mythology is present in the thick case as well, which is modelled on an Ionic pillar. The size is a consequence of the movement, which is enormous – inside are four mainsprings – due to the energy requirements of the tourbillon. The hand-crafted figure of Chronos is remarkably detailed - truly in the spirit of ancient Greek statues. The dial is interesting, as the eye is drawn to both the Chronos figure and the unusually fast tourbillon, but falls short in legibility, though that’s clearly not the point here. The God of Time is one of those watches where time-telling is less important tha...

Andersen Genève’s World Time Gains a Split Seconds Upgrade SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 5373P Jan 7, 2026

Andersen Genève’s World Time Gains a Split Seconds Upgrade

Historically a complication associated with Svend Andersen, the pioneering independent who cofounded the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), the world time has been reworked and added to the Venus 179 split-seconds chronograph movement to create the Rattrapante Mondiale. One of the most complicated offerings from Andersen Genève, the Rattrapante Mondiale features a clever two-level world time disc display while the cal. 179 inside is entirely finished by hand. Though the octogenarian Mr Andersen is now largely retired, Andersen Genève continues his artisanal approach to watchmaking that’s exemplified by the Rattrapante Mondiale. Initial thoughts Andersen Genève has produced a great many world time watches, but the Rattrapante Mondial is one of the most impressive. The movement is recognisably complicated, while the level of execution is high, especially for the movement and dial. Much of the work is also artisanal, as is typical for Andersen, which still operates out of Svend Andersen’s original premises. The Rattrapante Mondiale is appropriately sized for the design and movement, while the case styling is simple and good enough. Unusually, it’s a “destro” case with the crown on the left side and world time knob on the opposite side. The brand says it made left-handed cases for some one-off commissions in the past, but here it feels a little too much like an unnecessary affectation. It is also reminiscent of the Patek Philippe ref. 5373P...

Hands-On: Spending Time With The Improved Traska Venturer GMT Fratello
Sep 16, 2025

Hands-On: Spending Time With The Improved Traska Venturer GMT

It’s been only a few weeks since I reviewed the Traska Commuter 38. It left a lasting impression because it is a great daily wearer - let me rephrase that: it is the best affordable daily wearer I have worn recently. It proved to be a great go-to pick among other, far more expensive watches […] Visit Hands-On: Spending Time With The Improved Traska Venturer GMT to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Zenith Chronomaster Sport Vs. Grand Seiko Tentagraph Fratello
Grand Seiko Tentagraph Sunday morning! Time Aug 10, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Zenith Chronomaster Sport Vs. Grand Seiko Tentagraph

Sunday morning! Time for a cup of coffee and another Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, Mike and Jorg go head-to-head in a battle of the titanium high-beat chronographs. Mike’s pick this week is the titanium Grand Seiko Tentagraph. The first blue dial model was released in 2023 and got a follow-up this year. However, the […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Zenith Chronomaster Sport Vs. Grand Seiko Tentagraph to read the full article.

Bovet Scales Down the Daylight-Savings World Time SJX Watches
Bovet Apr 17, 2025

Bovet Scales Down the Daylight-Savings World Time

Following the launch of the uber, multi-function world time last year, Bovet Fleurier continues its exploration of time zones with the Récital 30, a simpler, everyday-wear evolution on its complex predecessor. Initial thoughts The Récital 30 is more accessible both in terms of function and price, and more restrained in terms of design; overall it’s a more wearable version of the full-fledged original. The new world time caters to a different customer from last year’s Récital 28, the client who doesn’t necessarily care for lavish decorations or extreme complexity, but seeks a forward-thinking, wearable world time with some unique functionality. While the accessibility of this should be applauded – it costs almost one-tenth the Recital 28 – this does leave the impression of a watered-down creation. There is almost no lavish movement decoration visible, instead the dial fully covers the face. And the calibre only incorporates one complication, admittedly one executed in a complex manner. World time indication At its core, the Récital 30 is built on the same principles that underpin its pricier bigger brother, namely the clever roller world time system. This ingenious mechanical solution allows seamless adjustments across 25 distinct time zones, including GMT+5:30 for New Delhi, India, which is offset by an inconvenient 30 minutes. The beauty of the system is its calibration for four distinct annual periods: Coordinated Universal Time (UTC), American Summer Time...

Building A Watch Brand Episode 15: Looking Back On The First Two Years Of VPC Fratello
VPC Time flies when you’re Jan 15, 2025

Building A Watch Brand Episode 15: Looking Back On The First Two Years Of VPC

Time flies when you’re having fun! It has been a full two years since I set off on an adventure to build my dream watch, the VPC Type 37HW. Fratello offered me the fantastic opportunity to chronicle and share the journey with you all. Today, after having fulfilled all preorders, I would like to finish […] Visit Building A Watch Brand Episode 15: Looking Back On The First Two Years Of VPC to read the full article.

Editorial: Geneva Auctions Fall 2024 SJX Watches
Rolex GMT-Master II “SARU” Nov 12, 2024

Editorial: Geneva Auctions Fall 2024

Perhaps the most surprising moment of the fall auction season in Geneva was when the hammer came down on an MoonSwatch at Christie’s for CHF69,300 including fees – exactly the same as a Rolex GMT-Master II “SARU” that sold later in the day. But as is almost always the case with record prices at auction, there was a story behind the price and a method to the madness. The MoonSwatch was the unique “millionth” example conceived specifically for this auction, where all proceeds went to ELA, a French medical charity. The ELA sale was spearheaded by Francois-Henri Pinault, the chief of Kering, the luxury conglomerate that owns Christie’s, and certainly one of the most influential people in the luxury goods business. Sitting in the room and opening the sale was Mr Pinault’s fellow trustee at ELA, Zinedine Zidane, the French footballer better known as Zizou who’s regarded as one of the all-time best players and coaches. Christie’s auctioneer Rahul Kadakia with Zizou. Image – Christie’s Bidding via phone, the winning bidder of the MoonSwatch – which sold for over 150 times the retail price – announced to the room via a Christie’s rep that his winning bid was for “ELA and Zizou”. It was clearly a statement that he or she would have paid up for whatever watch was on sale, regardless if it was plastic or precious metal. It was a good deed done that was no bearing on the MoonSwatch or watches in general. To the moon MoonSwatch aside, the season was pos...

[VIDEO] Recapping The Biggest Watch Fair in the World: 2024 Windup Watch Fair NYC Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward team ba Oct 31, 2024

[VIDEO] Recapping The Biggest Watch Fair in the World: 2024 Windup Watch Fair NYC

The week after the 2023 Windup Watch Fair, the team here at Worn & Wound sat down and evaluated what would become our final show at The Altman Building. Two things were clear. One, there were a lot more brands from around the world expressing interest in participating. And two, there were a lot more people at the Fair than we expected. It was obvious, we would need a new spot in 2024. Fortunately, we had a lead on a space right on 5th Ave-two floors and several rooms of wide open possibilities called Center415. It was a massive leap up in size, scale, and visibility, which all comes with some risk. But we learned it’s true, as they say: “If you build it, they will come.”  The NYC edition of the 2024 Windup Watch Fair was without a doubt, the biggest watch fair in the world. With well over 140 brands in attendance, more than 10,000 enthusiasts flocked to the Fair over the course of three days. We were pleasantly surprised to hear multiple moments of audible ‘oohs and aahs’ as folks made their way from hall to hall. Guests were immediately introduced to our EDC Expo presented by NOMATIC, a collection of gear and accessory brands with products that perfectly complement our passion for watches. At the end of EDC Expo, guests (of age) were able to sample Scotch Whisky from the island of Islay from our pals at Bruichladdich Distillery. Folks were then ushered into the first floor’s main hall, where they were welcomed by an always cheerful Christopher Ward team, ba...