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Monochrome
You don’t have to be a watchmaking fan to know that the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is one of the few watches that defines the brand and modern horology at large. As the direct descendant of the 1926 Oyster, one of the very first waterproof wristwatches, this time-only, robust, precise, and endlessly wearable watch is what […]
SJX Watches
Marking the centenary of its signature Oyster case, Rolex has introduced a new polychrome ‘Jubilee’ dial for the Oyster Perpetual 36. An appealing new variant of a tangibly excellent product, the Jubilee dial will likely appeal to both experienced Rolex collectors as well as those who have historically found the brand’s designs too sedate. Initial thoughts Rolex is a brand that takes itself seriously. At times, the brand’s product development cycle seems to move at a glacial pace, but this is part of the discipline that has made Rolex the most successful maker of luxury watches by some margin — collectors have learned they can trust Rolex to keep a good thing going. So when the brand decides to have a little fun, it’s almost shocking. The brightly coloured Jubilee dial motif — built up of 10 layers of coloured lacquer — is certainly fun, and reminiscent of the ‘Celebration’ dial launched in 2023 in both 36 mm and 41 mm sizes. The Jubilee model pictured is the 36 mm size, but the design is also available in 41 mm (ref. 134300) and 31 mm (ref. 277200). The ‘Celebration’ dial was launched in 2023 in both 41 mm (left) and 36 mm sizes. The Oyster Perpetual 36 case keeps its nearly ideal proportions — small and sleek enough to disappear under a shirt cuff but chunky enough to hold its own with short sleeves. Substantively, it could make a proverbial ‘one-watch collection’ but given its exuberant dial will probably appeal most to seasoned collectors...
Fratello
Now you can get the characteristic features without the exorbitant price. Well, the Poinçon de Genève-certified Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar in steel is hardly a cheap watch, but it is the gateway to the Roger Dubuis universe. And what a way to enter the world of hand-crafted high horology it is. With its 40 […] Visit Hands-On With The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar In Steel During Watches And Wonders 2026 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Last year, Roger Dubuis unveiled the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar, a revival of a signature biretrograde complication co-patented by founder Roger Dubuis and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht (Agenhor) in 1989. Although this calendar version is simpler than the double retrograde QP the two men developed, it features the signature retrograde aesthetic intimately associated with Roger Dubuis. Following the […]
SJX Watches
Following the introduction of the same model (sans bracelet) in 18k pink gold last year, the new ‘cosmic blue’ variant of the Roger Dubuis (RD) Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar offers the brand’s signature retrograde day and date complication in a more accessible stainless steel package. Initial thoughts As a maker of big, bold, avant-garde watches, RD has found itself out of step with mainstream collector culture, which lately has favoured smaller, more elegant designs. The brand seems to understand the implications of these latent trends, and just last year introduced the Hommage La Placide, which was widely praised. The new 40 mm Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar is another step in the right direction, bridging the gap between RD’s more flamboyant instincts and contemporary collector preferences. In this context, the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar is clearly a watch designed to resonate more widely - the 40 mm stainless steel case paired with a blue dial is a commercially popular and almost universally appealing configuration. It works in part because the striking Excalibur design and unmistakeable biretrograde day and date functionality keep it from looking too much like anything else. The stainless steel bracelet is also noteworthy. It’s not the first time the brand has offered a steel bracelet - and it has produced this same design in titanium in the past as well - but it might as well be new since the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar will probably appea...
Time+Tide
To mark the 100th anniversary of the Oyster Perpetual, Rolex has given us three two-tone models with plenty of details to dig into. The post Rolex Releases new Oyster Perpetual marking 100 years of the Oyster Case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
The Datejust was my first Rolex, and I believe it was for many. It’s the perfect one-watch-do-it-all. The modern Rolex Datejust prices could make you think differently, but it was never a cheap watch to begin with. My colleague Gerard often called it “the mother of all modern wristwatches,” and I agree with him. It’s […] Visit Introducing: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 With A Green Lacquer Ombré Dial to read the full article.
Fratello
In 1926, Rolex introduced the first waterproof and dustproof wristwatch, marking a major step forward. Given the name “Oyster,” this watch featured a hermetically sealed case that provided optimal protection for the movement. Five years later, Rolex invented and patented a breakthrough self-winding mechanism with a Perpetual rotor. With 2026 marking the 100th birthday of […] Visit 100 Years Of The Oyster Leads To The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 And 36 In Yellow Rolesor, Plus A Steel OP 36 With A Colorful Jubilee-Motif Dial to read the full article.
Monochrome
In 1996, Patek Philippe introduced one of the most practical complications in modern watchmaking: the Annual Calendar. First seen in the reference 5035, the mechanism automatically distinguishes between months with 30 and 31 days, requiring only one manual correction per year, at the end of February. Between the “simplicity” of a full calendar and the […]
Monochrome
Blancpain unveiled its Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar in 2012, an extraordinarily complex watch that fuses the traditional lunisolar Chinese system, elements of the Gregorian calendar, and a moon phase. A world first, Blancpain’s masterpiece coincided with the Chinese Year of the Dragon. For 2026, Blancpain returns with a 50-piece limited edition in platinum dedicated to […]
Deployant
At Dubai Watch Week 2025, De Bethune unveiled the DB25 Perpetual Sky and the DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT, a striking showcase of the brand’s dual identity.
Monochrome
With its streamlined case, flexible integrated bracelet and sensual contours, H. Moser & Cie.’s sleek Streamliner luxury sports watch continues its journey onwards, and in this case upwards, with no signs of losing steam. Coinciding with Dubai Watch Week 2025, Moser unveils the new Streamliner Perpetual Moon Concept Meteorite, a hyper-accurate moon phase complication framed […]
SJX Watches
Rolex has expanded the 1908 collection with the Perpetual 1908 Settimo, a yellow-gold dress watch with an all-new seven-link bracelet. Settimo, Italian for ‘seven’, refers to the number of links across the bracelet; five slender links in the centre framed by two broader links on each side. The result is a supple, tightly constructed bracelet that complements the refined proportions of the 1908. Powered by the advanced cal. 7140, the watch remains impressively slim at just 9.5 mm, combining Rolex’s famous industrial precision with genuine elegance, filling a long-standing gap in the brand’s line-up. Initial thoughts When I think of Rolex, the image in my mind is one of long-term thinking, industrial expertise, over-built movements, and iconic (but fairly chunky) designs. The 1908, especially the Settimo version, shows the brand also understands elegance. The Settimo bracelet recalls vintage ‘beads-of-rice’ bracelets and works well with the vintage-feeling aesthetic of the 1908. The slightly glistening lacquered dial and crisply faceted hour markers provide a bright, vivid appearance; perhaps its the sub-seconds at six and the lack of a date window, but it feels more refined than the dial of a typical Datejust or Day-Date. The case is very sleek on the wrist thanks to the cal. 7140, which, at just 4.05 mm in height, is 34% thinner than the brand’s own cal. 3235. No watch is perfect, and there are a few details that I find mildly annoying, like the plug atop the...
WatchAdvice
A forgotten 1970s prototype finally brought to life, the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli is Zenith at its poetic best. A celestial twist on a historic design, this is a watch that feels as timeless as the night sky it represents! What We Love The Lapis Lazuli stone dial is genuinely stunning. A vibrant, rich, and ever-changing under light, perfectly capturing Zenith’s celestial identity. The El Primero 3610 movement keeps the brand’s DNA alive with that iconic 36,000 vph beat and flawless integration of the triple calendar and moon-phase. Despite the dial’s visual complexity, the blue-and-white contrast and colour-matched calendar wheels keep everything clean, legible, and refined. What We Don’t The straight lugs don’t curve down enough, meaning the case can sit slightly proud on smaller wrists. At 14 mm, it’s not overly chunky, but some may find it a little tall, especially under tighter cuffs. As a complete calendar, it still requires five manual date changes a year, not a deal-breaker, but something to note for practicality. Overall Rating: 8.9/10 Value for money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 9/10 The story of the Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar is a fabled one, as it is about a timepiece that never made it to production, up until almost 54 years later, when Zenith went through their archives and found the original plans for this timepiece. While we can say that Zenith might’ve missed out on an incred...
Fratello
I have always believed that the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is best enjoyed when you stop treating it like a precious object and start treating it like a companion. With ongoing wait lists and the like, getting one new from the Rolex AD has proven tricky. Luckily, Rolex recently loaned me the new Oyster Perpetual 36mm […] Visit Two Weeks With The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 “Pistachio” to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre has just introduced the Master Control Calendar Limited Edition, the latest addition to a long line of triple calendar watches going back decades. Packaged in the 40 mm Master Control case we’ve become familiar with, this new 500-piece stainless steel limited edition is all about the dial, which features a richly textured silver and grey livery on a “sector” layout. Despite the classical aesthetic, the Master Control Date is thoroughly modern on the inside with the cal. 866 featuring a silicon escapement that supports a 70-hour power reserve. Initial thoughts The triple calendar moon phase has long been a staple of the Jaeger-LeCoultre line-up; Pablo Picasso famously wore one. Add to this lineage the brand’s unique jumping date pointer, which jumps in a wide arc from the 15th to the 16th of the month to avoid confounding the moon phase display, and the result is a watch that manages to be both charming and technically distinctive. It’s also easily wearable in a 40 mm case, that, while larger than the vintage originals, gives the indicators on the dial plenty of space to breathe. Of course, the movement is the cal. 866, effectively a cal. 899 with a triple calendar module, which helps keeps the overall package quite sleek at 10.95 mm – on par with many simple time-and-date watches in this category. Upgraded a few years ago with a silicon escapement, the movement now runs for 70 hours when fully wound, adding convenience to wearability. Naturall...
Monochrome
Launched in 1992, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control collection is inspired by the brand’s classic round timepieces of the 1950s, focusing on technical rigour, certification (JLC’s in-house “1000 Hours” Control), and stylistic restraint. The Master Control Calendar was part of the refreshed collection in 2020, equipped with a triple calendar and moon phases inspired by movements developed […]
Time+Tide
Refreshingly basic with a subtle pop of colour, Bruce makes the case for the pistachio OP36.The post Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36: why base is ace appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Size matters. That’s certainly the case for the Rolex Oyster Perpetual that comes in no fewer than five sizes - 28, 31, 34, 36, and 41mm. This year, The Crown introduced three soft and shimmering pastel colors - lavender, beige, and pistachio. In addition, there’s a new glossy black lacquered dial and a “med blue” […] Visit The Agony Of Choice: Deciding Between The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 And 41 to read the full article.
Fratello
When we introduced you to the new combination of a Rolex 1908 in yellow gold paired with a Settimo bracelet on April 1st, the price of the full-gold ensemble was CHF 33,400. On that same date, the cost of gold was reported at US$3,120.93 per ounce. As I write this on June 10th, the price […] Visit Hands-On With The Yellow Gold Rolex Perpetual 1908 On The Settimo Bracelet to read the full article.
Time+Tide
When you look closer at this Patek Philippe annual calendar, its seemingly perfect symmetry begins to unravel - as opined by a self-professed nitpicker.The post Why Patek Philippe’s latest annual calendar is a stickler’s dream (or nightmare) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Though it’s quite easy to forget this when looking at the watch world, sometimes less is more, and simpler is better. Simpler, however, is often much harder to get right. Poor design is easily covered in layers of otherwise unnecessary embellishments. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual presents simplicity at its very finest. Rolex added two new […] Visit New Rolex Oyster Perpetual Dial Colors You May Have Missed to read the full article.
Monochrome
While all eyes were focused on the release of the new Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller collection, Rolex had a sumptuous surprise up its sleeve. Introduced in 2023 to replace (well, not officially, but still…) the Cellini collection, the elegant Perpetual 1908 premier dress watch returned to Watches & Wonders 2025 with a gold bracelet. Not any […]
Monochrome
Zenith‘s Triple Calendar model is based on the compact 38mm case of the Chronomaster Original, itself modelled after the 1969 El Primero reference A386. This reference provides a balanced and wearable foundation for a relatively complex movement. Initially launched in stainless steel (2024) and subsequently in rose gold (2025), Zenith has decided that it was […]
Fratello
Possibly one of the most unexpected novelties released during this year’s Watches and Wonders was a double-retrograde calendar watch with a 40mm pink gold case. Now, a timepiece of that size, in that material, and with that complication - I mean no disrespect to double-retrograde indications - doesn’t sound too surprising when you think of […] Visit Hands-On With The Surprising Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar - Celebrating The Brand’s 30th Anniversary With A 40mm Watch to read the full article.
Fratello
Montblanc began making watches in 1997, but in reality, the brand’s watchmaking history runs a lot deeper. In 2007, the noted penmaker purchased Minerva, a revered Swiss manufacture founded in 1857. Since then, complicated pieces have carried the famous name on the movement and, at times, on the dial. Today’s 1858 Geosphere Annual Calendar Limited […] Visit Introducing: The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Annual Calendar Limited Edition to read the full article.
Monochrome
Last year, Zenith presented the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar, a masterful mix of a complete calendar complication with the brand’s high-frequency chronograph movement and a surprising history. Housed in a compact 38mm case to replicate the proportions of the iconic round-shaped A386 from 1969, the three stainless steel models were well received. Today, Zenith introduces […]
Monochrome
In Rolex’s repertoire, the Oyster Perpetual was and still is the brand’s entry-level model, available in no fewer than five different sizes – 28mm, 31mm, 34mm, 36mm and 41mm. The collection, which was somehow neglected by enthusiasts, was revamped in 2020, gaining much visibility thanks to its colourful, Stella-inspired dials (and funky colours that drove […]
Fratello
Of course, I was impressed by the new Land-Dweller, but I wasn’t charmed by it. To be honest, it’s been a while since The Crown launched a watch that charmed me. Yes, every watch is of superb build quality and a benchmark, but just like a Mercedes S-class, a modern Rolex is not exactly lovable. […] Visit Hands-On With The With The Rolex Oyster Perpetual In Two Of Three Soft New Shades to read the full article.
Monochrome
Montblanc‘s appreciation for Minerva‘s heritage drives its evolution as a watchmaker. The brand embraces Minerva’s time-honoured craftsmanship and savoir-faire by celebrating traditional techniques while exploring the possibilities of modern horology. This commitment is again evident in the newly unveiled 1858 Geosphere Annual Calendar, a timepiece poised to become a standout addition to Montblanc’s collection with […]
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