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Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

The two ends of the wristwatch axis: utility vs formality. The Submariner / Calatrava extremes and the 1972 Royal Oak hybrid.

Sinn Extends Its U50 Lineup - Three Regular Oil-Filled Models And A Lume-Dial Limited Edition Fratello
Sinn Extends Feb 14, 2024

Sinn Extends Its U50 Lineup - Three Regular Oil-Filled Models And A Lume-Dial Limited Edition

Last year, we were treated to the brilliant Sinn T50 series. After trying the three watches out, I became an instant fan of the full-titanium, Goldbronze, and two-tone versions, and the last one made a particularly lasting impression. This time around, the German brand is extending its U-series of dive watches with four new models. […] Visit Sinn Extends Its U50 Lineup - Three Regular Oil-Filled Models And A Lume-Dial Limited Edition to read the full article.

The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Gets a Jade Dial SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Jan 31, 2024

The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Gets a Jade Dial

H. Moser & Cie. is back with another Streamliner to kick off the year. The Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade sports a dial crafted from the mineral stone – mined in the American state – and a rose gold case, while retaining the other elements from the original Streamliner Tourbillon with a Vantablack dial released in 2022. Initial thoughts Like most mineral stones, jade has a natural pattern that varies across examples. As each piece of jade has a pattern that’s slightly different from the next, no two dials are exactly the same. This unique variance is one of the key attractions of natural stone dials. Here it is paired with rose gold, a combination that works particularly well. Because it is identical in size to the earlier Streamliner Tourbillon, it also wears well. The 40 mm case sits well on my 6.5 in wrist, being neither too big nor too small thanks to the lug-less case design. This is a pricey watch in absolute terms, with a retail of CHF 109,000. That said, the value proposition is actually decent. The comparable Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon in pink gold, for instance, costs almost double. While Moser is a niche brand compared to establishment names, it offers watches that are relatively more unusual, while being comparable in overall quality. The only downside of this is arguably the edition size, which at 100 is substantial for a watch of this nature. Moser has been steadily increasing the variety and quantity of its high-end Streamliner models...

Dial Restoration: Aesthetics or Functionality? How to Decide - Reprise Quill & Pad
Jan 27, 2024

Dial Restoration: Aesthetics or Functionality? How to Decide - Reprise

Most will agree that re-painting a dial is a big no-no. Vintage pieces with re-painted dials can be had for a steal as they are difficult to shift and mostly unwanted. But not all dial restorations are created equal, and we do encounter varying degrees of “upgrades.” Some of these upgrades are purposeful deception, while others are not. Here is what one watchmaker feels about the subject.

10 Watches That Don't Tell Time? Look a Bit Closer Teddy Baldassarre
F.P. Journe FFC F.P Journe founder Jan 9, 2024

10 Watches That Don't Tell Time? Look a Bit Closer

By definition, watches, no matter whatever else they might do in addition, are made to tell time. As a rule, the vast majority of watches do this in analog fashion with the use of two rotating hands, one for the hour, the other for the minute, often with an additional hand to track the running seconds. But every so often, you’ll run across the proverbial exception that proves the rule - a timepiece whose design is so radical, so outside the mainstream in design, that at first glance (sometimes even at the second or third) it appears that you can’t read the time on it at all. Even most of these avant-garde pieces, however, have been designed with the purpose of timekeeping in mind, even if this basic function is overshadowed or reduced to an aesthetic afterthought by the more spectacular elements the watch offers. Here is a selection of 10 very interesting watches (actually, nine watches and one example of high-end wrist-worn art), most of which actually do tell you the time - as long as you know how to read them. F.P. Journe FFC F.P. Journe founder Francois-Paul Journe teamed up with legendary Godfather director Francis Ford Coppola to conceptualize and produce the original FFC watch, a unique piece in a tantalum case that fetched $4.93 million at the 2021 Only Watch auction, becoming the highest-selling F.P. Journe watch in the indie brand’s nearly 25 years of existence. Journe added a platinum-cased model to its regular collection in 2023 with the same visual...

The Speake-Marin Dual Time Pink is Pantone-clad in pink Time+Tide
Speake-Marin Aug 18, 2023

The Speake-Marin Dual Time Pink is Pantone-clad in pink

While Speake-Marin’s established catalogue has been upheaved in the last couple of years with their integrated-bracelet Ripples watches, their boutique and nuanced past is still being captured with select models like the Academic Black Tie using their Piccadilly case. With the Speake-Marin Dual Time Pink, technical sportiness gets merged with both tradition and vibrant whimsy … ContinuedThe post The Speake-Marin Dual Time Pink is Pantone-clad in pink appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Grand Seiko Katana Collection debuts new dial textures inspired by katana artistry Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Katana Collection debuts new Aug 17, 2023

The new Grand Seiko Katana Collection debuts new dial textures inspired by katana artistry

This new Grand Seiko 44GS steel Spring Drive trio uses katana artistry as a muse for their dials The SBGA489 and SBGA491 introduce a new dial texture inspired by Japanese tamahagane steel The SBGA493, a limited edition of 500 pieces, has a fiery red dial that encapsulates the emanating sparks from the forging of a … ContinuedThe post The new Grand Seiko Katana Collection debuts new dial textures inspired by katana artistry appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Oliver Gallaugher Deep Space sports a star-struck dial and some fine movement finishing Time+Tide
Aug 14, 2023

The Oliver Gallaugher Deep Space sports a star-struck dial and some fine movement finishing

Sometimes, hearing about a new brand named after someone you’ve never heard of, some alarm bells ring. It’s a fairly classic trick used by companies to instil a sense of heritage for watches that are designed out of a catalogue and mass-manufactured for profit. Oliver Gallaugher couldn’t be further away from that stereotype, proudly attaching … ContinuedThe post The Oliver Gallaugher Deep Space sports a star-struck dial and some fine movement finishing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Week In Watches, Ep. 61: New Dial Colors Galore, & A Redesigned Longines HydroConquest Worn & Wound
Glashütte Original Nomos Aug 13, 2023

A Week In Watches, Ep. 61: New Dial Colors Galore, & A Redesigned Longines HydroConquest

A Week In Watches returns with a look at a plethora of new releases that include updates from Christopher Ward, Glashütte Original, Nomos, and Tissot. Everyone has a new dial color or case size, it would seem, but they all work well here, bringing new renditions to old favorites, and further dialing in already great platforms. The big news this week comes from Longines, who redesigned their HydroConquest family with a new collection of GMT watches. Unique colorways and a few odd details on the dial preserve some of that classic HydroConquest character, while showing some serious sings of maturity in the process. In other news, we’re about a year away from the 2024 summer Olympic games in Paris, and Omega is ready to kick things off with a new Seamaster 300 commemorating the games. Omega and the Olympics go way back, like way way back, so it’s no surprise to see Omega getting a head start on things with a new LE, and we suspect that this won’t be the last to do so. Finally, can you ever have too much of a good thing? Tissot doesn’t think so, and just keeps iterating on the wildly popular PRX range, most recently with new dial colors and even a fully gold plated example in their 35mm Powermatic 80 PRX line. It should come as no surprise that they work rather well. Catch more details on these watches in our full intro. Reminder that you can catch us again in 2 weeks for more watches, people, and news in episode 62 of A Week In Watches. The post A Week In Watches, Ep....

The King Seiko SJE095 takes its dial inspiration from Japan’s national flower Time+Tide
Seiko SJE095 takes Aug 8, 2023

The King Seiko SJE095 takes its dial inspiration from Japan’s national flower

The King Seiko SJE095 highlights a chrysanthemum pattern as Japan’s national flower. The case is based on the original King Seiko from 1965 with an even thinner profile. It’s a limited edition of 600 pieces and will be available from October 2023. Although its return to market focused mainly on recreating vintage models, King Seiko … ContinuedThe post The King Seiko SJE095 takes its dial inspiration from Japan’s national flower appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Lion’s-Mane Dial for the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive Aug 7, 2023

A Lion’s-Mane Dial for the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive

The Sport case inspired by the Grand Seiko emblem is a fairly new addition to the brand’s stable, having made its debut in 2019 with a trio of limited editions to mark the 20th anniversary of the Spring Drive. Now the distinctive facetted case joins the regular collection with the Sport Spring Drive SBGA481 “Tokyo Lion”. The big and bold case is accompanied by a fresh opaline dial featuring a texture reminiscent of a lion’s mane.  Initial thoughts  Although Grand Seiko historically expended a significant amount of effort in developing its more formal offerings, it more recently extended its efforts towards its Sports line, particularly the “Lion” models with its trademark facetted case. Initially found only on limited editions, this case has now transitioned into a readily-available production model. As with many Grand Seiko watches, sports or not, the Tokyo Lion’s standout feature is the dial, specifically the intricate and abstract textured pattern that complements the zaratsu polishing on the titanium case. The pattern is appealing enough that I hope the brand further iterates on this captivating pattern; though I expect that is a given since Grand Seiko inevitably iterates on successful models and elements. It is worth noting that the Tokyo Lion is fairly oversized at 44.5 mm, like many Grand Seiko Sports models, but given that the case and bracelet are made from titanium, it should feel light and comfortable while on the wrist.  The Tokyo Lion is pric...

We asked Chat GPT to review the Doxa SUB 300 in the voice of Matthew McConaughey Time+Tide
Rolex Submariner Well Aug 3, 2023

We asked Chat GPT to review the Doxa SUB 300 in the voice of Matthew McConaughey

Once upon a time, when Chat GPT made its debut and artificial intelligence became a point of mainstream discussion, we decided to let former president of the USA Donald Trump take a stab at writing a review of the Rolex Submariner. Well, an artificial intelligence pretending to be Trump that is. We do not have … ContinuedThe post We asked Chat GPT to review the Doxa SUB 300 in the voice of Matthew McConaughey appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Christopher Ward Introduces a Pair of New Dial Variants to the C63 Sealander Range, Along with a Brand New Five-Link Bracelet Design Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Introduces Aug 2, 2023

Christopher Ward Introduces a Pair of New Dial Variants to the C63 Sealander Range, Along with a Brand New Five-Link Bracelet Design

Christopher Ward is refreshing their C63 Sealander line this week with more than just new dial variants. Of course, we’re getting new dial variants, but the big news here for collectors and fans of the brand is the debut of a new bracelet option. Dubbed the Consort, the five-link style is reminiscent of a traditional Rolex Jubilee bracelet, but still very much its own thing, and adds a new, more elegant, dimension to Christopher Ward’s all purpose sports watch.  Before we get to the bracelet, let’s start with the dial updates. There are two brand new references here, a Dragonfly Blue version of the C63 Sealander GMT, and a Mulberry Red execution of the C63 Sealander Automatic 36mm. The red dial in particular is quite striking in these Christopher Ward supplied images. This is a tough color to get right, and perhaps even tougher to pair with everyday attire, but it’s undeniably attractive nonetheless. The Dragonfly Blue tone on the GMT has an aquatic vibe not unlike other references we’ve seen from Christopher Ward recently. This one pairs particularly well with the orange tipped 24 hour hand and offers a nice base for the high contrast white, lume filled applied hour markers for easy legibility. Both new dials have sunray finishes that should allow them to come alive in the light.  The Consort bracelet that’s paired to these two watches immediately makes them feel a little more formal, and a little less tool oriented. It’s a traditional five-link design, wi...

A. Lange & Söhne Gives the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar a “Salmon” Dial SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 13, 2023

A. Lange & Söhne Gives the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar a “Salmon” Dial

The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar seamlessly integrates two of the most intricate complications in watchmaking with symmetry and classic elegance. It has undergone several facelifts since its introduction in 2013, including the champlevé enamel Handwerkskunst of 2017. Now, the brand has introduced the latest incarnation of the model that features a dial in “salmon” – officially known as “pink gold” – while retaining the traditionally constructed calibre in a limited edition of only 100 pieces. Initial thoughts Envisioning further improvements for the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar is probably challenging due to its complexity and quality. The Handwerkskunst edition did it with lots of elaborate decoration. Now comes a salmon dial, something a little unexpected, given the lack of colour across the rest of the 1815 family, which sticks fairly rigidly to silvered dials, no matter the case metal. Perhaps the new dial colour is to add a bit more appeal to an otherwise under-appreciated (and slow-selling) complication.  Perhaps the only downside to this release is that it is just a dial change with no substantial changes to note. But the intrinsic quality of the watch itself in terms of finishing, construction, and complexity is already very, very high. So adding a new shade to the otherwise conservative 1815 line up is never a bad thing, especially when done in this limited fashion. New colourway, but the same calibre The dial is ide...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Stella Breslin revives the linen dial for the here and now Time+Tide
Jun 5, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The Stella Breslin revives the linen dial for the here and now

There’s certainly no shortage of creativity in the world of microbrands, but that energy doesn’t always get funnelled into watches that actually look good. Stella, the New York-based brand and brainchild of co-owners Stephen and Marcella (see where they got the name from), are one of the few who have managed to establish a beautiful … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Stella Breslin revives the linen dial for the here and now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Doxa SUB 300T Clive Cussler delivers a dial fit for a pirate Time+Tide
Doxa SUB 300T Clive Cussler May 18, 2023

The Doxa SUB 300T Clive Cussler delivers a dial fit for a pirate

A friend of mine has this saying. Whenever he would see something old, he would point at it and say, “Old but good”. A rusty old Land Cruiser, a guitar that has endured years of abuse on stage, whatever it is, it’s old but good. We have a fascination with objects that have taken on … ContinuedThe post The Doxa SUB 300T Clive Cussler delivers a dial fit for a pirate appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: Charlie Paris introduces the Alliance 68H and Phase de Lune Time+Tide
Baltic Serica Apr 17, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: Charlie Paris introduces the Alliance 68H and Phase de Lune

Over the past 10 years, French brands have been making real waves in the horological world. The country has seen a resurgence of fine watchmaking that comes in all shapes and forms. You’ve probably have heard of Baltic, Serica and Yema, but have you heard of Charlie Paris? Based in – yes, you guessed it … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Charlie Paris introduces the Alliance 68H and Phase de Lune appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe introduces the Calatrava 5224R with a 24-hour dial Time+Tide
Patek Philippe introduces Mar 28, 2023

Patek Philippe introduces the Calatrava 5224R with a 24-hour dial

The Patek Philippe 5224R is slated to be the ultimate travel Calatrava It pairs a slim micro-rotor calibre with a travel time complication and 24-hour display All the movement functions are operated via the crown via a patented system The travel time has become somewhat of a Patek Philippe signature over the years, with the … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe introduces the Calatrava 5224R with a 24-hour dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Patek Philippe 5178G-012 is a minute repeater with a stunning flinqué enamel dial Time+Tide
Patek Philippe 5178G-012 Mar 28, 2023

The Patek Philippe 5178G-012 is a minute repeater with a stunning flinqué enamel dial

The Patek Philippe 5178G-012 impresses through its flinqué blue Grand Feu enamel dial. The 40mm case is made from illustrious 18k white gold. The calibre R 27 PS features a 22k gold micro-rotor and a minute repeater complication. Being perhaps the most famous high-horology watchmaker of the current age, it’s never going to be totally … ContinuedThe post The Patek Philippe 5178G-012 is a minute repeater with a stunning flinqué enamel dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Tudor Black Bay GMT with a wintery white dial Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay GMT Mar 28, 2023

The new Tudor Black Bay GMT with a wintery white dial

The Tudor Black Bay GMT is now available with an opaline white dial. Paired with the Snowflake hand set, it makes for a refreshing look. The blue and burgundy bezel looks more vibrant in contrast. Although last year’s Watches & Wonders held thunderous announcements for Tudor’s GMT fans thanks to the Black Bay Pro and … ContinuedThe post The new Tudor Black Bay GMT with a wintery white dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Chopard IMPERIALE delivers an exquisite dial that you won’t forget Time+Tide
Chopard IMPERIALE delivers Mar 27, 2023

The Chopard IMPERIALE delivers an exquisite dial that you won’t forget

This new addition to the Chopard IMPERIALE collection pays tribute to an Egyptian legend. The lotus flower signifies the sun, and has inspired the day/night indicator dial. The calibre 96.30-L is an in-house marvel, featuring a healthy power reserve and micro-rotor. It’s hard to invalidate diamond-set watches when artisans like Chopard bring in new levels … ContinuedThe post The Chopard IMPERIALE delivers an exquisite dial that you won’t forget appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new MB&F; LM Perpetual has a salmon dial in a steel case - super rare for the brand yet not a limited edition! Time+Tide
Patek Philippe typically … ContinuedThe post Mar 21, 2023

The new MB&F; LM Perpetual has a salmon dial in a steel case - super rare for the brand yet not a limited edition!

The MB&F; LM Perpetual Steel is their second ever creation to have a salmon dial Stainless steel is very rarely used by MB&F; for cases, upping the rarity factor even more Not a limited edition, but it will be limited in production each year When you look at higher end brands like Patek Philippe, typically … ContinuedThe post The new MB&F; LM Perpetual has a salmon dial in a steel case – super rare for the brand yet not a limited edition! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Minute Repeater Supersonnerie Smoked Sapphire Dial SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Feb 3, 2023

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Minute Repeater Supersonnerie Smoked Sapphire Dial

Besides the Universelle grand complication, Audemars Piguet has another ace up its sleeve when it comes to its line of round watches. Originally launched a blue enamel dial, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Minute Repeater Supersonnerie gains sharper aesthetics with a smoked sapphire dial and a pink gold case. Initial thoughts A big part of the appeal of a repeater is the mystifying mass of racks and levers that drive the chiming mechanism and are most often hidden under the dial. Unveiling their secret is sometimes best done with the direct approach of not having a solid dial. A clear sapphire dials is arguably perfect it for a repeater, because the complication is usually constructed on the movement’s dial side. Unlike other frontal complications such as perpetual calendars, chiming complications are highly interactive – the racks are set in motion during the chiming sequence in a mechanical dance, all while the chimes sound, a performance that elevates the appeal of the complication. And for the Code 11.59 specifically, the tinted sapphire dial works especially well. Matched with high-contrast pink gold, it is an ideal complement for the case design as it blends an otherwise classical complication with contemporary livery that matches the modern styling of the case. As a result, the new repeater is one of the most appealing watches in the Code 11.59 range, with an intrinsic appeal that few of its brethren possesess. Contemporary package While retaining the same...

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Grained Dial in White Gold SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Grained Feb 2, 2023

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Grained Dial in White Gold

Audemars Piguet (AP) just revealed its new launches for the year and one of the highlights is a new version of the classic Royal Oak “Jumbo”. Harking back to the uncommon “Tuscan” dial from three decades ago, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ultra-Thin in white gold boasts a grained blue dial. Initial thoughts At a distance, the new “Jumbo” looks like an average Royal Oak with its white metal case and blue dial. But on the hand, it is evidently different. It is still thin and elegant but wonderfully weighty thanks to the gold case and bracelet. Granted, the quintessential Royal Oak is a steel “Jumbo” but the white gold case leaves this feeling a bit more refined and sophisticated. And then there’s the dial. With its granular surface, it is recognisably different from the average Royal Oak – and also easily beautiful. The PVD treatment gives it a gorgeous metallic blue that combines with the texture to catch the light nicely. Although it is not a limited edition, this feels special, mostly due to the fact that it’s the only white gold “Jumbo” in the catalogue. There is another white metal “Jumbo” in the line up – the platinum model exclusive to AP Houses – but it has a green dial that feels a bit too fashionable. This grained blue dial, however, feels more like a classic. The standard steel “Jumbo” is already an excellent watch, combining the perfect proportions of the original Royal Oak with the excellent cal. 7121. This version in white ...

AP Social Club Day 1: First-ever steel Code 11.59s, new grained dial Royal Oak Jumbo, and more… Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet models mark first-ever debut Feb 2, 2023

AP Social Club Day 1: First-ever steel Code 11.59s, new grained dial Royal Oak Jumbo, and more…

New stainless-steel Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet models mark first-ever debut for AP. New Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin takes a Tapisserie break with grained dial treatment. New Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph / 42mm marks first to use a full ceramic case and bracelet. New Royal Oak 37mm Turquoise stone dial is a fresh take on … ContinuedThe post AP Social Club Day 1: First-ever steel Code 11.59s, new grained dial Royal Oak Jumbo, and more… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Bulgari x Lisa has a crazy dial you’ve never seen before Time+Tide
Bulgari Bulgari x Lisa has Jan 14, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Bulgari x Lisa has a crazy dial you’ve never seen before

Blackpink star Lisa was made a Bulgari ambassador in 2020 Their new collaboration has a crazy triple-hue dial It features a loving tribute to her Swiss step-dad Not too long ago in 2022, my first exposure to South Korean stars in the realm of Swiss watches was a photoshoot with heartthrob Hyun Bin wearing the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Bulgari x Lisa has a crazy dial you’ve never seen before appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Dial Restoration: Aesthetics Or Functionality? And How To Decide - Reprise Quill & Pad
Dec 17, 2022

Dial Restoration: Aesthetics Or Functionality? And How To Decide - Reprise

Most will agree that re-painting a dial is a big no-no. Vintage pieces with re-painted dials can be had for a steal as they are difficult to shift and mostly unwanted. But not all dial restorations are created equal, and we do encounter varying degrees of “upgrades.” Some of these upgrades are purposeful deception, while others are not. Here is what one watchmaker feels about the subject.