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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Hands-On: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked In White Gold Fratello
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin May 8, 2024

Hands-On: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked In White Gold

This is hardly the first open-worked version of the legendary Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin, but it is my favorite one so far. The perfection is in the white gold that “AP” used for the watch’s exterior, the internal and external finishing, and the choice of colors. The way the watch combines significant weight […] Visit Hands-On: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked In White Gold to read the full article.

First Look – The New Yema Navygraf Slim CMM.20 with Micro-Rotor Movement Monochrome
Yema May 7, 2024

First Look – The New Yema Navygraf Slim CMM.20 with Micro-Rotor Movement

A strong advocate of French watchmaking and a brand with history, Yema keeps upgrading its collection with more horological content and designs to please vintage enthusiasts. This blend of modern watchmaking and historic looks was the base of the recently presented Superman Slim CMM.20, the icon of the brand powered by a manufacture micro-rotor calibre developed and assembled in France. Now, it's time for the Navygraf, the other dive watch of Yema to be upgraded and refined with these nice mechanics. Meet the new Navygraf Slim CMM.20 diver.

Tudor Black Bay: A Comprehensive Guide to the Collection Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor May 7, 2024

Tudor Black Bay: A Comprehensive Guide to the Collection

The Tudor Black Bay took watch fandom by storm when it hit the market in 2012 and the sporty, vintage-inspired divers' watch has since grown into an extensive family with something for just about everyone, now boasting in-house calibers, multiple styles and sizes, and even some precious metals and complications. In this comprehensive guide we explore the origins of the Tudor Black Bay and showcase the standout models you can buy right now.  FOUNDATIONS OF TUDOR With an eye toward making watches that would be affordable while still maintaining a high level of quality, Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf registered the Tudor brand trademark in 1926, and began running the Tudor company as a subsidiary brand of Rolex in 1946. Tudor watches were the only watches on the market at the time that featured reliable third-party movements inside the famed waterproof Rolex Oyster case, also developed in 1926, and were initially more geared toward the tool watch market than were Rolex timepieces, which already enjoyed a reputation as luxury items. The first Tudor watch with the “Oyster” name followed shortly after the launch of the brand, in 1947, kicking off a long tradition of timepieces suitable for underwater adventure. The first Tudor Prince model followed in 1952, around the same time that Tudor began an R&D; partnership with the French Navy (Marine Nationale), from which would emerge the brand’s first dive watch. THE OYSTER PRINCE SUBMARINER The Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner, Tu...

The White Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch - Better Than The Silver Snoopy Award? Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch - Better Than May 7, 2024

The White Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch - Better Than The Silver Snoopy Award?

After Omega introduced several Speedmasters not aimed at Moonwatch enthusiasts (e.g. the Speedmaster Super Racing with Spirate technology and the updated Speedmaster Apollo 8), the white-dial Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch finally came out on March 5th, 2024. I use the word “finally” because Omega had already shown it in October 2023 on the wrist of former […] Visit The White Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch - Better Than The Silver Snoopy Award? to read the full article.

Mido Introduces The Limited Carbon Edition Of Its Versatile Ocean Star 200C Fratello
Mido May 7, 2024

Mido Introduces The Limited Carbon Edition Of Its Versatile Ocean Star 200C

When I hear the name Mido, the first Ocean Star watches that come to mind are the vintage-inspired models. I like the Ocean Star Tribute, the Ocean Star Decompression Worldtimer, and the Ocean Star GMT. They all have an undeniable charm that is hard to ignore. But the brand also makes a series of modern […] Visit Mido Introduces The Limited Carbon Edition Of Its Versatile Ocean Star 200C to read the full article.

First Look – The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Pink Gold, Now With Sage Green and Ultramarine Blue Dials Monochrome
Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Pink Gold May 7, 2024

First Look – The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Pink Gold, Now With Sage Green and Ultramarine Blue Dials

One of the earliest models in the so-called luxury sports watch category, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato, was released in 1975 and powered by a quartz movement. In 1984, mechanical movements found their way into this original barrel-shaped watch, and this has become the norm since the return of the watch in 2016. Now an established collection […]

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Thomas’s Picks From Longines, Lorca, And More Fratello
Longines Lorca May 7, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Thomas’s Picks From Longines, Lorca, And More

It is time for another round of Fratello editors’ favorites in a specific segment. This time, we are looking at the best watches under €2,500, and I get the honor of kicking it off. Now, while €2.5K is a huge amount of money by any measure, it is starting to feel quite limiting within the […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Thomas’s Picks From Longines, Lorca, And More to read the full article.

When the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is More Than an Entry-Level Watch SJX Watches
Rolex Oyster Perpetual May 7, 2024

When the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is More Than an Entry-Level Watch

A no-frills time-only watch, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is now the brand’s entry-level model that’s available in a variety of dial styles and sizes, including the sought-after “Bubbles” dial. But Rolex has been making watches for long enough that the Oyster Perpetual from many moons ago is now a six- or seven-figure watch. Two of these special Oyster Perpetuals figure prominently in Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction. They are final two lots on the last day of the sale: lot 218 is the Oyster Perpetual ref. 6098 “Galaxy”, and lot 219 is the Oyster ref. 6102 cloisonné “La Caravelle” with bombe lugs. The Oyster ref. 6098 “Galaxy” The Oyster ref. 6102 “La Caravelle”. Both are time-only watches with Oyster cases, but the opposite of no-frills. They date from the 1950s, when Rolex was experimenting with a diverse range of dials for the Oyster Perpetual (and perhaps the recent 1908 in platinum is a return to form?) The “Galaxy” gets its name from the star-shaped indices on the glossy black dial, while “La Caravelle” refers to the cloisonné enamel dial made by a leading enameller of the period, Margueritte Koch. Today’s Oyster Perpetual with the “Celebration” dial of coloured bubbles Star-crossed Rolex watches with star dials are marvellous watches (which is why it was the inspiration for our Habring² Erwin “Star”). The most famous and expensive type of Rolex with such a dial is the ref. 6062 “Stelline” triple calendar. Less widel...

Hands-On: the Zelos Spearfish Dual Time Worn & Wound
May 6, 2024

Hands-On: the Zelos Spearfish Dual Time

If a tide pool at a waterpark represented the world of micro/independent watches, some brands would be the kids who sit at the edge, waiting for a wave to bowl them over, others would be the dad that overcompensates by proving he can swim all the way out to the source only before losing his trunks, and then there’s Zelos…the person who showed up in their custom Speedo and polarized purple goggles doing laps around the perimeter. If you want a quality diver, finished brilliantly, made with interesting materials, eye-popping dials, all for around $500, Zelos has you covered. However, there is another Zelos. One that lights up a cigar, slips out of their lounge sandals, and makes their way into a meticulously curated tranquility pool…but still with the purple polarized goggles. This Zelos comes around a couple times a year, playing with high-end Swiss movements and interesting complications.  The first “tranquility pool” Zelos of the year recently hit the market. They took the case from their popular Spearfish line and released the Spearfish Dual Time. Three of the five watches in the line are made of titanium and come on titanium bracelets; the remaining two have cases made from forged carbon and come on a canvas leather strap. I had the pleasure of trying out the Moonscape forged carbon model for a little over a week, and while I do have some complicated thoughts on the model itself, what is indisputable is that you’re getting lavish materials and an elaborate ...

First Look – The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Purple Monochrome
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate May 6, 2024

First Look – The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Purple

Armin Strom (1938) has gone down in the annals of watchmaking as a pioneer in the art of hand-skeletonisation. Now in the hands of Serge Michel and master watchmaker Claude Greisler, the independent watchmaking brand with 17 in-house calibres continues the master’s legacy of “transparent mechanics” with showstopping models like its Mirrored Force Resonance and […]

Introducing: The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Purple Fratello
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate May 6, 2024

Introducing: The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Purple

As a fan of Armin Strom, I have had the pleasure of reviewing many of the brand’s previous models. Back in 2019, I was following the story of the then-new Gravity Equal Force, and while the watch was and still is out of my financial reach, I was amazed by what the Biel/Bienne Maison presented […] Visit Introducing: The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Purple to read the full article.

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD Chrono Cycling Edition SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces May 6, 2024

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD Chrono Cycling Edition

Tudor recently revealed another competitively priced chronograph, this time designed for the Tudor Pro Cycling Team participating in the 2024 Giro d’Italia. The Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition” is based on the chronograph made for the Alinghi sailing team and features the same carbon composite case. But the aesthetic is more understated, mostly black with touches of red. Initial thoughts Tudor’s recent support for the sport, including the sponsorship of its cycling team and recruitment of Swiss champion cyclist Fabian Cancellara as a brand ambassador, meant a cycling-centric watch was on the way. Although the Tudor cycling team members were issued a special-edition Black Bay Chrono last year, that watch was not available to the public. Now the team gets a new watch, which is also publicly available. In contrast to the equivalent Alinghi edition, the cycling chronograph has a more subdued, streamlined look that’s mostly monochromatic. The absence of overt cycling branding also adds to the appeal (in contrast, the Alinghi chronograph has the team branding on the inner flange). Save for the design changes, this is identical to the Alinghi edition. Unsurprisingly, the price is also similar at US$5,275. True to the brand’s ethos, the value proposition remains excellent considering the carbon composite case, high-spec movement, and overall quality. Last year’s Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing” Cycling-ready The Cycling Edition is latest version...

The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Panda leans into its vintage cues Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Panda May 5, 2024

The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Panda leans into its vintage cues

It wouldn’t be an unfounded opinion to say that vintage reissues have become a bit stale after a decade of non-stop re-releases. Sure, vintage watches are fantastic, and new watches with vintage looks? Debatably even better. So when TAG Heuer released the Carrera Chronograph Glassbox at last year’s Watches and Wonders, it had a raucous … ContinuedThe post The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Panda leans into its vintage cues appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vintage Watches: The Gruen Curvex Lieutenant Fratello
May 5, 2024

Vintage Watches: The Gruen Curvex Lieutenant

The Gruen Curvex certainly ranks as an important line of historical watches. These pieces used a variety of curved cases and curved movements. During their two decades of production, they were the pinnacle of style and rivaled more expensive brands. Gruen also has a deep tie to America, which brings something different to the story. […] Visit Vintage Watches: The Gruen Curvex Lieutenant to read the full article.

Tudor Celebrates the Start of the Giro d’Italia with a Cycling Themed Pelagos FXD Chronograph Worn & Wound
Tudor Celebrates May 4, 2024

Tudor Celebrates the Start of the Giro d’Italia with a Cycling Themed Pelagos FXD Chronograph

Tudor has released a new watch in their growing Pelagos FXD collection with the Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition.” The new watch borrows a formula from last year’s FXD releases tied to the Alinghi Red Bull Racing, but this time the focus is on Tudor’s own cycling team, which makes their debut in the Giro d’Italia this weekend. The Giro d’Italia is one of the most important cycling races on the competitive calendar, and this new chronograph has a handful of little touches that might make it particularly appealing to fans of the sport. It strikes many of the same chords, though, as last year’s Alinghi releases, and could point to a new and developing strategy within Tudor in how they work with athletic partners.  At a high level, this is essentially the same watch as the Alinghi FXD chronograph. They share the same 43mm black carbon composite case and run on the same MT5813 chronometer certified movement. The differences, of course, come in the details. The new Cycling Edition watch features a black dial with plenty of red accents, a nod to the colors of the Tudor cycling team. And rather than a rotating dive bezel like the one on last year’s chrono, here we get a fixed 60 minute bezel.  The most interesting change, and I think the one that will have hardcore cyclists most excited, is a tachymeter scale that has been designed with cycling specific intervals in mind. Virtually every other tachymeter scale on modern sports watches is designed to measure th...

Introducing: The 2024 Releases From Naoya Hida - Including A Rectangular Grail Candidate Fratello
Naoya Hida May 4, 2024

Introducing: The 2024 Releases From Naoya Hida - Including A Rectangular Grail Candidate

Japanese independent watchmaking has a particular charm, often showing a spare yet intricate way with dials and small-cased sensibility. With a few quietly released collaborative efforts, Hida-san’s main focus is on a small output of orders. Nevertheless, the 2024 releases from Naoya Hida & Co. show a more extroverted side to the brand coming through. […] Visit Introducing: The 2024 Releases From Naoya Hida - Including A Rectangular Grail Candidate to read the full article.

Introducing: The Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono Tudor Pro Cycling Team Edition Fratello
Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono Tudor May 4, 2024

Introducing: The Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono Tudor Pro Cycling Team Edition

Tudor has announced the release of a special FXD chronograph. The Pelagos FXD Chrono Tudor Pro Cycling Team Edition commemorates the brand’s relationship with the Tudor Pro Cycling Team (a Swiss professional development road bicycle racing team that participates in the UCI Europe Tour). It should come as no surprise if this latest release from […] Visit Introducing: The Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono Tudor Pro Cycling Team Edition to read the full article.