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Deployant
More novelties from ALS in SIHH 2011 Lange also introduced some new entry level watches to complete the Saxonia line. The line is now quite complete with the Saxonia Automatic, the Saxonial Flat Handwound, and the Saxonia World Time. First the Saxonia Automatic. The movement is a new movement, with a full rotor instead ofRead More
Deployant
The Urwerk White Shark…limited Edition in 12 pieces, especially for The Hour Glass and Chronopassion. A closer look at the time indication mechanism. The red numeral is also the limited edition number…12 examples, so allows each watch to be individualised with its limited edition number in red on the hour indicator. Nice touch. A closerRead More
Monochrome
The Berneron Mirage is described as letting the movement dictate the watch’s shape. Take it or leave it, but its asymmetric, liquid-like, constantly flowing design truly captivates. Created by Sylvain Berneron, an automotive designer who later created his independent watch brand, this watch has been around since 2023, yet it still looks fresh and original. […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Alpina brings solar power to the Startimer Pilot with a compact 38mm case and a La Joux-Perret-developed movement with 10 months of autonomy.
SJX Watches
In exactly a week, Sotheby’s Hong Kong will stage Important Watches, an impressive, two-day auction that includes a selection of outstanding pocket watches from Switzerland and Great Britain, namely timepieces by Patek Philippe and Charles Frodsham, with most of the latter made by Nicole Nielsen. Three watches stand out from this already elite herd, built by the best of London and Geneva – a modern grand complication, one of the first-ever flying tourbillon watches, and a minute-repeating pocket chronometer. Despite a recent uptick in interest, pocket watches still offer phenomenal value, and are often the most interesting lots in auction catalogues for movement nerds. The pocket watches in Sotheby’s upcoming sale exemplify this. Lot 2293 – Patek Philippe ref. 942/2 “Grande Complication” This is a relatively recent example of a historical Patek Philippe genre, the grande complication pocket watch, one that dates back over a century now. The common watch complications fall into three categories: chiming, timing, and calendars. Chiming watches include repeaters in all their resolutions, plus clock watches, alarms, and hour strikers. Chronographs, rattrapantes, dédoublantes and independent seconds functions are timing complications. Calendar complications, besides the obvious, include moon phase, time of sunrise and sunset, and equation of time. A triple complicated watch combines complications from all three families. For Patek Philippe this traditionally meant ...
Monochrome
Delma’s Midland collection is the brand’s sporty-chic take on the integrated-bracelet watch, bringing some 1980s flavour to the category. The watches in this collection come in two sizes, 40mm and 34mm, with the automatic 40mm versions sitting at an accessible price point of around EUR 1,400. We have already seen the Midland in multiple colours, […]
Worn & Wound
It’s that time of year again: time for Apple to unveil its new slate of products, and for you to consider whether you really need to upgrade your iPhone, or resort to one more year of jiggling chargers and waning battery life. I’ll admit, this year’s crop is cooler than usual, with the iPhone Duo finally coming to fruition and giving us one more foldable phone option. But this is a watch website, so naturally our focus was on the reveal of the Apple Watch Series 12 and Ultra 4, the latest in Apple’s now long-running collection of smartwatches. They weren’t first to the market with the original Apple Watch—now ten years old, if you can believe it—but like Kleenex and Band-Aid before it, the Watch has now become synonymous with the smartwatch category, and every new model brings massive hype and speculation. So, what are the facts? First, let’s look at the Series 12. Starting at $499 with GPS and cellular ($399 with just GPS), the Series 12 brings back most of the beloved features of its predecessors, with a shiny new S11 chip inside. According to Apple, it carries up to 24 hours of battery life, Siri AI and Audio Intelligence, advanced health tracking, and more, all upgrades over prior versions. The heart rate, sleep apnea, and hypertension sensor and notifications are a big draw with the health crowd and those who need health monitoring, making the Apple Watch a one-stop-shop solution for most people. And while I am not the intended audience for a smartwa...
Hodinkee
If you're based in Southeast Asia, or just have a general hankering to visit Bangkok soon, the capital city of Thailand is preparing to host the second edition of the Siam Paragon Bangkok Watch Week from September 22nd to September 27th. Hosted by Siam Paragon, one of Thailand's largest luxury shopping malls, the six-day showcase will bring together a large gathering of collectors from across Southeast Asia and beyond, curious newcomers to watchmaking, and industry heavyweights for a major celebration of horology. This year will see over 45 brands participating in the watch week, which marks more than double the brand count from last year's inaugural effort. The show will feature a wide range of brands, from haute horlogerie mainstays like Greubel Forsey, A. Lange & Söhne, and MB&F; to more niche names like David Candaux and Behrens. There's going to be a lot of the big names here, and enough deep-cut brands to keep you entertained. Part of the programming for Bangkok Watch Week will be numerous experiences spread out throughout the week, with workshops, presentations, and more being conducted by many notable names behind many of the brands making an appearance during the show. Unfortunately, I believe many, if not most, of these experiences are already fully booked, so if you're planning to make it to Bangkok, take a look now to see what's still open. Our friends at the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, or the FHH, will introduce its Academy Lounge concept to host worksho...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
From field watches to GMTs and chronographs, these picks offer the water resistance we want without the usual dive-watch formula.
Monochrome
Indie brand ArtyA, founded by Yvan Arpa, is known for its expressive designs and technically ambitious watches, often combining traditional craftsmanship with an unmistakably contemporary attitude. Earlier this year, the brand presented the Complexity, a spectacular mechanical piece with a world-first architecture of two inclined tourbillons at 12 and 6 o’clock, connected by a differential. […]
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! After the hustle and bustle of Geneva Watch Days last week, we are slowly getting back into the normal swing of things. This allowed us to think about a good Top 5 topic for this week that isn’t about the best releases we have seen lately. This new list is all […] Visit The Top 5 Watches That Should Never Have Been Discontinued to read the full article.
Time+Tide
It was an action-packed week in Geneva, and there was a lot to unpack from the second trade show of the year.
Fratello
There are 567 reasons to fall in love with the A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split in platinum. The only watch in the world capable of measuring intermediate and comparative times with an aggregate duration of up to 12 hours houses the 567-part hand-winding triple-rattrapante caliber L132.1, which has a hypnotizing effect on watch connoisseurs. […] Visit The Chronograph That Rules Them All Is Back: Bow To The A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split In Platinum to read the full article.
SJX Watches
One of the most appealing releases of Geneva Watch Days was the Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator. While not an altogether new model, the watch incorporates a number of welcome updates, including a smaller case and a more refined dial that resembles an instrument panel on the wrist. The L.U.C 98.02-L movement remains in service, and is both COSC and Poinçon de Genève-certified. Moreover, the calibre achieves an impressive nine days of power reserve and is neatly finished, as is typical for Chopard’s higher-end offerings. Initial thoughts Chopard has long been a steward of the regulator format. In fact, the 1963 Heritage Regulator marks 20 years since the brand’s first contemporary regulator wristwatch. The regulator format is strongly associated with precision clocks, but Chopard’s interpretation reminds me of an automotive dashboard — perhaps intentionally, since the brand’s co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele is known for his affinity for vintage cars. The latest example is substantially improved over prior generations, with several nips and tucks that result in a move wearable and less busy package overall. The watch is tangibly well made, with an expensive bill of materials and refined execution. The 1963 Heritage Regulator is priced at about US$50,000, and is limited to a concise run of 25 pieces in (ethically sourced) 18k white gold. By current standards, it’s a reasonable proposition, but still slightly above the going rate for a Patek Philippe...
Worn & Wound
As part of their Geneva Watch Days presentation, Alpina unveiled several new solar quartz references in their Solarmetre line, which effectively places solar quartz movements made by La Joux-Perret in familiar Alpina references. It’s about the most natural move possible from a business perspective. Alpina and La Joux-Perret are both owned by the Citizen Group, who of course make Citizen watches and have been leaning heavily into solar quartz technology for years. The Alpina watches sit at a higher price point than the average Citizen, so the expansion of solar quartz across Alpina’s collection naturally begins an interesting conversation about value for enthusiasts who might have an interest in both brands. The core of the release last week would have to be a trio of new Startimer Pilot Solarmetre watches. These are solar quartz powered versions of the still new Alpina pilot watch introduced earlier this year at Watches & Wonders. I think the value here is in the particular way these watches take advantage of the smaller La Joux-Perret quartz movement compared to their mechanical counterparts. The mechanical versions of these watches measure 40mm in diameter and a hair over 10mm tall, while the Solarmetre watches come in at 38mm wide and 9.3mm thick. That’s a meaningful difference in size, with the added grab and go benefits of solar quartz (Alpina says the AL-140 movements here will run for 10 months in total darkness, and of course it doesn’t take much light to...
Hodinkee
If you've never collected Rolex Bubblebacks before, you should probably forget nearly everything you know about vintage watches. At least, that's what it feels like you should do when you start wading into the space. Things like reference numbers are much less valuable to remember than movements, case designs, printing details, and a general ability to just remember everything you've seen to get a sense of feel for what is right and what isn't. And trust me, a lot isn't. You could spend decades looking at these watches, but "Bubble Back" by Masahiro Endo, the owner of vintage retailer Private Eyes in Tokyo, is a great reference to jump-start your understanding of an iconic (and currently underappreciated) model. I mentioned this in last week's review of John Nagayama's "96," but the only watch I'd be more afraid to deep-dive into than the Patek ref. 96 is the Rolex "Bubbleback." It's not even an official model, but a nickname for Rolex watches made from 1933 to the mid-1950s with a domed, "bubble-like" caseback. So when you open Endo-san's book, you'll probably immediately be struck by the fact that none of the examples (except the later ref. 6062 and ref. 8171) have reference numbers. According to collectors, that's not the most useful thing for understanding the Bubbleback. Basically, every other detail matters more. We've previously published a story about the bubbleback with a lot of thoughts and tips for understanding these models, courtesy of Ken Jacobs and Justin Gr...
Worn & Wound
Earlier this year, I had the opportunity to meet some of the team from Matador and was let in on a massive secret: Matador had plans to replace almost its entire line of soft goods. Unlike other manufacturers, this wouldn’t be a slow rollout or gradual discontinuation of lines; it was a hard stop, set for early August, almost an “end of an era,” if you will. Among the list of packs that were nearing their end was the GlobeRider line, which has become a regular in my rotation of bags. Thankfully, the Matador team had production samples on hand and was able to walk me through the changes and dispel my worries, and I’ve been putting one of these new models through its paces for about two months now. Back in June of 2025, I took Matador’s GlobeRider 35-liter on an almost two-week-long trip to Atlanta and Alaska and was genuinely impressed by the bag’s performance. In my initial review, I mentioned that while being larger than I needed, the Globerider never felt out of place, whether I was using it for EDC, bringing home groceries, or hauling around a hefty bit of camera kit. Since then, I’ve taken the GR35 on a weekend trip to Paris, used it countless times to haul gear and groceries throughout the city, and it’s earned itself a constant place in my small but packed gear closet. Having spent nearly two months with the new GTP, it has become clear to me that while this bag is something new, a significant amount of previous design DNA has remained. Most notably...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko expands its 5 Sports lineup with the HDB004 and HDB005, bringing fresh silver and green takes to the familiar SNZH-inspired design.
![Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The Hodinkee Happy Hour [August 2026]](https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/69c5fd6b-1f21-4aad-b7f8-8d50df2e56e6/augustHHH.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&w=2000)
Hodinkee
Two weeks ago, we managed to fit in one more Hodinkee Happy Hour before summer slips away. We gathered at the Watches of Switzerland store in SoHo, where friends old and new escaped the rain to enjoy an evening of good conversation, food from Upside Pizza, and beer from our local friends at Grotta. Despite the weather, the turnout—for both people and watches—did not disappoint. If you made it out that night, thank you for coming. Please note that the next Hodinkee Happy Hour won't be until October, so please keep an eye on the site and our Instagram for the October RSVPs. Until then, scroll through the photos below for a recap of the night and to see some cool watches. Our Editor-in-Chief, James Stacey, sporting a Doxa Sub Army 200T for Hodinkee Limited Edition t-shirt. A vintage Movado Triple Calendar. An Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding with a blue "Grande Tapisserie" dial. A Sinn T50 titanium diving watch and a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona with a black dial and contrasting subdials. F.P. Journe Octa Automatique Réserve De Marche. From left to right: a Doxa Sub Army 200T for Hodinkee Limited Edition, a Rolex Daytona Ref. 16520 with a "Patrizzi" dial from 1996, and a Grand Seiko. From top to bottom: a Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Regulator Ref. 5235G, a Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time "Deep Stream," and an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15510 ST Green Dial from 2022. Rolex Zenith Daytona Ref. 16520 "Arabic prototype." From top to bottom: the Rolex Zenith Dayto...
Monochrome
While Tutima gained popularity thanks to its purposeful pilot watches, aviation-themed chronographs and robust adventure-driven collections, one of the brand’s lineups certainly stands apart from the rest and shouldn’t go unnoticed. A tribute to the German school of watchmaking and the manufacture’s roots, the Patria collection celebrates classic designs and in-house watchmaking, done the Glashütte way. Elegant, […]
WristBuzz
A boutique centenary gives Panerai an excuse to go deep on heritage, and for once, it actually lands.
Deployant
Reuben picks three standout releases from Geneva Watch Days 2026: the GP Laureato Fifty Tourbillon, MING 57.05 Comet and L’Epée The Football.
Monochrome
Chronoswiss founder Gerd Lang will forever be remembered as the watchmaker who produced the world’s first serially produced wristwatch with a regulator layout in 1987. Without a shared central axis, the separation of hours, minutes and seconds characteristic of regulators connects directly to the Digiteur of 2005, a digital regulator with jumping hours at noon, […]
Time+Tide
The Chronoswiss Neo Digiteur Pastel Code collection brings Rose, Sky and Mint dials to its distinctive handless mechanical digital display
Monochrome
For over two decades, Hublot has embraced the ‘Art of Fusion’, blending unexpected materials like rubber, gold, ceramic, and sapphire into bold visual statements. The latest Big Bang Original Soft Touch pushes the boundaries even further, inviting us to experience how a watch feels. More than just a coating, Hublot has integrated a microscopic, textured […]
Fratello
For the first time in the Astron collection, Seiko introduces gray ceramic. The shiny non-alloy appears on the bezel, crown cap, and bracelet center links of two new Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual Time Chronograph watches. While these models share the ceramic parts, they have differently colored titanium components. The HAB007 is the full-gray version, […] Visit Gray Ceramic Debuts On Two New Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual Time Chronographs to read the full article.
Fratello
Vintage watches can seem intimidating when you first start looking. There are unfamiliar references, decades of production changes, questions about originality, and the ever-present possibility of an expensive service bill. But you don’t necessarily need a huge budget to get into vintage watches. In fact, €5,000 opens up a surprisingly broad selection. In this episode of Fratello […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Vintage Watches We’d Buy Under €5,000 to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux (GP) is on the rebound after a few quiet years, and the Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor 39 mm is a compelling addition to the premium sports watch arena. Featuring an all-new automatic tourbillon calibre and expensively crafted dials — with optional grand feu enamel — the Laureato Fifty Tourbillon embodies the strides GP has taken to reposition itself in the industrial-haute horlogerie segment. Initial thoughts I tend to feel somewhat jaded about tourbillons squeezed into sports watches, but I was pleasantly surprised by the thoughtful execution of the Laureato Fifty Tourbillon, from its grand feu flinqué enamel dial to the (surprisingly) solid gold bridges of the all-new cal. GP8410. Moreover, the brand managed to maintain the nearly ideal proportions of the Laureato Fifty while adding a finely finished free-sprung tourbillon to the lower half of the dial. While the 39 mm format is familiar, the cal. GP8410 is one of four new automatic calibres the brand has introduced in roughly the past year, after the workhorse GP4800, the automatic minute repeating cal. GP9530, and the GP9620 with the brand’s emblematic “three gold bridges” architecture. The nearly simultaneous release of these four distinct platforms hints at the investment put into GP since the group’s management buyout in early 2022. Priced at almost exactly US$100,000, both variants of the Laureato Fifty Tourbillon are positioned squarely against watches like the Vacheron Consta...
WatchAdvice
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new Master Control Chronometre collection is a hit. Now we put the Date Power Reserve model under the microscope… What We Love Great integrated bracelet design, & a first for Jaeger-LeCoultre Super comfortable on the wrist Bridges both sports and dress watch genres easily What We Don’t No lume, so a better watch for day wear vs an all-around sports watch The bezel could be larger or have more detailing for greater balance Need a corrector tool to change the date, so it isn’t easy to do when out and about. Overall Rating: 9.25 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 Mario has had his say on the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Date, but now it’s my turn, and for this review, I’m getting hands-on with the Master Control Chronometre Date Power Reserve. Yes, the name is a mouthful, but that is ok, I’ll forgive Jaeger-LeCoultre as this is (spoiler alert) a fantastic watch that I really had a hard time faulting. Since seeing the full collection first-hand at Watches & Wonders this year, I had been keen on trying them for a longer-term review. I do love the rose gold variants, but the sensible part of me thought it best to give the steel version a try, as this is probably the more everyday-wearing watch, and design-wise, sits nicely between the date model and the perpetual calendar. First Impressions I’ll say this. My first impressions of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomet...
Worn & Wound
Vintage Seiko, as most collectors know, is a rich tapestry. Once you learn the story of Colonel William Pogue, or try to track down the funky bracelet that Bruce Lee paired with his own Speed-Timer, the wormholes naturally open themselves, each with their own dizzying amounts of reference numbers, specific models, and fun nicknames for the mind to notice and then squirrel away for later. But what about the ones you might have overlooked? Midcentury Seiko chronographs are a riot of design variations, bold patterns, and contrasting color schemes—and all backed by genuine innovation in the guise of the first automatic chronograph, flyback movements with stacked register hands, collaborations with luminary designers, and freakish dabbles with postmodernism. It’s what makes them so much fun to pay attention to. Hence, these six Seiko chronographs that play with the form, proving that even across the decades there are still surprises to rediscover. Not just familiar references, but obscure offshoots. Seiko 6138-8000 “Baby Panda” Seiko’s dual-register chronograph debuted shortly after the 6139, which we all know as the world’s first automatic chronograph. And while both watches represent futuristic seventies design, the slimmer 6139 takes a backseat to this lineup’s exaggeratedly bulky cases and clashing, patterned color schemes that have garnered nicknames like “UFO,” “Kakume” (“square eyes”), and “John Player Special” (a nickname popularized ...
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