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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

#TBT Visual Glory With The Must De Cartier Tank Art Deco Ref. 1616 Fratello
Cartier Tank Art Deco Ref Apr 25, 2024

#TBT Visual Glory With The Must De Cartier Tank Art Deco Ref. 1616

Next year will mark 30 years since Cartier released the Must de Cartier Tank Art Deco. Maybe I should feel embarrassed that I don’t recall ever seeing it before. But the moment I spotted it last week, I instantly fell in love. If it weren’t quartz and in the ballpark of €10,000, it would be […] Visit #TBT Visual Glory With The Must De Cartier Tank Art Deco Ref. 1616 to read the full article.

First Look – The New and Original Louis Erard Régulateur x Cédric Johner Monochrome
Louis Erard Régulateur x Cédric Johner Apr 25, 2024

First Look – The New and Original Louis Erard Régulateur x Cédric Johner

Louis Erard has developed a close working relationship with contemporary artists, watchmakers, artisans, and designers to position itself as one of the most exciting and original brands on the watchmaking scene. To bring the delights of high-end watchmaking to a broader audience, Louis Erard sticks to its policy of accessible prices. What other brand can […]

Christopher Ward Introduces the Twelve X, One of their Most Ambitious Watches To Date Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Introduces Apr 25, 2024

Christopher Ward Introduces the Twelve X, One of their Most Ambitious Watches To Date

To say Christopher Ward has come a long way in the last 20 years would be a significant understatement. Their direct-to-consumer model and their maximum 3X mark-up has quite literally made them heroes among independent micro-brands. In fact, you can easily argue that they have thoroughly outgrown the micro-brand moniker, having been responsible for plenty of genuine innovations in the affordable sector. The hits just kept on coming, especially over the last decade. In 2014 Christopher Ward launched their very first commercially viable mechanical movement. This was a 50-year first from a British watch company and it ruffled quite a few feathers. One indignant CEO of a large Swiss luxury watch brand approached them and said, “What gives you the license to do that?”. Clearly, they were on the right track. Since then, they have dramatically refined their case finishing (via their “light catcher” cases), reinvented the compressor dive watch, improved their bracelets, and added alternative case sizes to many references for a variety of wrists. However, nothing could have prepared us for the release of the immensely popular Bel Canto in November of 2022. A piece that quite literally flipped the watch world upside down. How do you follow something like that? Leave it to Christopher Ward to figure it out, and properly figure it out they did. Just at the peak of integrated bracelet sport watch mania, they threw their hat in the ring with The Twelve. Available in multiple siz...

Introducing: The Sarpaneva Dragonskin - The First Dial Of Its Kind Fratello
Sarpaneva Apr 25, 2024

Introducing: The Sarpaneva Dragonskin - The First Dial Of Its Kind

Today, we’ll take a brief look at the Sarpaneva Dragonskin, a watch that owes its existence to a fellow watch journalist. It’s a fascinating watch with a great story. Plus, it brings together watchmaking and artisanal materials. What could be better? Justin Mastine-Frost is the Director of Digital Content for Sharp Magazine, one of Canada’s […] Visit Introducing: The Sarpaneva Dragonskin - The First Dial Of Its Kind to read the full article.

Introducing: The Credor Eichi II 50th Anniversary Special Edition Fratello
Grand Seiko s will be found Apr 25, 2024

Introducing: The Credor Eichi II 50th Anniversary Special Edition

Seiko has possibly the widest range of entirely in-house-manufactured watches in today’s market. Everything from Spartan Seiko 5 watches to highly complicated Grand Seikos will be found. Since 1974, the company has even had a Haute Horlogerie branch in the form of Credor. And for those who are quick at arithmetic, that is precisely 50 […] Visit Introducing: The Credor Eichi II 50th Anniversary Special Edition to read the full article.

Introducing – Credor Celebrates its 50th Anniversary with the Blue/Gold Eichi II GBLT996 Monochrome
Grand Seiko Apr 25, 2024

Introducing – Credor Celebrates its 50th Anniversary with the Blue/Gold Eichi II GBLT996

While Grand Seiko is often regarded as the top-tier brand within the Seiko Group, there’s yet another hidden gem that’s not as easily available, not understandable, but equals (and sometimes surpasses) GS regarding complexity and attention to detail; Credor. Born in 1974, Credor gained international fame in the 2000s with the creation of highly complex […]

Slipping On The Double-Denim Patek Philippe Duo  World Time Date 5330G And Nautilus Self-Winding Chronograph 5980/60G Fratello
Patek Philippe Duo World Time Date Apr 25, 2024

Slipping On The Double-Denim Patek Philippe Duo World Time Date 5330G And Nautilus Self-Winding Chronograph 5980/60G

You’ve seen the press pics, and you’ve read the comments. Now it’s time to slip on and try out the double-denim Patek Philippe duo - the World Time Date 5330G and Nautilus Self-Winding Chronograph 5980/60G. I had to find out how these somewhat controversially styled watches felt and wore in reality. While I was at […] Visit Slipping On The Double-Denim Patek Philippe Duo World Time Date 5330G And Nautilus Self-Winding Chronograph 5980/60G to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: Swatch Group Novelties From The Watch Valley Event In Utrecht Fratello
Swatch Apr 25, 2024

Fratello Talks: Swatch Group Novelties From The Watch Valley Event In Utrecht

Hello, and welcome to an on-location episode of Fratello Talks. Today, Nacho, Daan, and Lex are coming to you from the Watch Valley event in Utrecht, where Swatch Group novelties for the first half of 2024 were unveiled. They’ll run through some of their favorites and give opinions on the different brand’s new watches and […] Visit Fratello Talks: Swatch Group Novelties From The Watch Valley Event In Utrecht to read the full article.

The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” is a True Super Watch Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Kodo I think Apr 24, 2024

The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” is a True Super Watch

Each year at Watches & Wonders, we see a handful of novelties that I think can fairly be described as Super Watches. These are the truly audacious creations that are, effectively, out of reach for all but that 1% of the 1% that has the coin and the inclination to buy into something incredibly niche, that’s incredibly expensive, that (honestly) might be years away from actually being produced and successfully delivered. The Grand Seiko Kodo, I think, is a good example of a Super Watch. It stopped everyone in their tracks, had an eye watering price point, and was the ultimate artistic and mechanical expression of the brand that made it. This year had a few Super Watch candidates (including another Kodo) but I think the winner walking away was a watch from A. Lange & Söhne that took the radical step of combining all the things people love about the brand into one watch. A Super Watch, if you will.  The Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” was easily my favorite watch name to say aloud during the show. When someone would ask me what my favorite watch of the week was (a question you’re asked about fifty times per day, minimum) I’d reflexively say “Oh, the Lange,” and then continue, probably looking skyward while counting out the watch’s cumbersome title on my fingers, like a school kid figuring out a math problem, “the Datograph, perpetual, tourbillon, lumen,” (I’d always screw it up here) “in honeygold!” I’d be really proud of myself f...

Rolex GMT-Master II: The Ultimate Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Apr 24, 2024

Rolex GMT-Master II: The Ultimate Guide

The Rolex GMT-Master II is one of the most coveted luxury travel watches on the planet, and its predecessor, the original, non-numerical GMT-Master, basically established the template that other dual-time zone timepieces have been following for more than half a century. Here is a detailed look at the history and evolution of the GMT-Master II, from its aviation-inspired beginnings in 1954 to the iconic status it enjoys in the modern era, with all the major models spotlighted in between. 1954: “PEPSI” FOR PILOTS Rolex, the luxury watch firm founded in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf, achieved one of its many milestones in 1953 with the launch of the Oyster Perpetual Submariner, the first serially produced wristwatch with a case water-resistant to 100 meters and hence one of the first and most influential watches purpose-built for diving. If the watch community was wondering what Rolex could possibly do for an encore, they didn’t have long to discover the answer. The following year, 1954, saw the introduction of another trend-setting, genre-defining timepiece, the original Rolex GMT-Master (Ref. 6542, which actually hit the market in 1955), the first watch capable of displaying the time in two separate time zones thanks to the clever addition of a fourth, central 24-hour hand and a bidirectional rotating 24-hour bezel. The initials in the watch’s name signify “Greenwich Mean Time,” the system of world timekeeping based on the calculation of mean solar time from the Royal ...

Review: the Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase Someday Apr 24, 2024

Review: the Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase

Someday, a history of this period in affordable independent watchmaking will be written, and the chapter on Christopher Ward is going to be the longest in this hypothetical volume, for sure. They’ve been around since 2004, and in the ensuing twenty years have gone through just about every high and low a watch brand can experience. While the ultimate thrust of their story is one of incredible growth, those of us who have been around for a little while can probably remember a time when the thought of Christopher Ward winning GPHG awards and being the toast of the watchmaking town would have been fairly unheard of.  The Bel Canto, introduced at the tail end of 2022, changed all that, but the brand had been on an upward trajectory for years before. They’ve come a very long way from being one of the most hotly discussed watch forum brands (so hot, in fact, they have their own forum for C. Ward enthusiasts) know primarily for somewhat generic, but always well made, dive watches. Over the years, they’ve stepped up every facet of their business, with particularly large steps taken in case finishing and movement design. In a very low key way, they are capable of doing things at the higher end of their range that other brands at similar price points simply can’t equal.  While the Bel Canto deservedly gets a lot of the press, one my favorite little pockets of Christopher Ward over the last few years has been the inventive way they’ve incorporated the classic moonphase com...

Now In The Shop - Handmade Crocheted Watch Rolls With A Story Fratello
Apr 24, 2024

Now In The Shop - Handmade Crocheted Watch Rolls With A Story

Today, in the Fratello Shop, we’re excited to bring you an item with a real story. These are watch rolls, but they’re a little different than the everyday, mass-produced holders found online. No, these rolls are handmade and come from a small village in Slovakia. The reason for their existence relates to one of our […] Visit Now In The Shop - Handmade Crocheted Watch Rolls With A Story to read the full article.

Hands-On With The SpaceOne Jumping Hour Destro Forged Carbon Fratello
Apr 24, 2024

Hands-On With The SpaceOne Jumping Hour Destro Forged Carbon

A few weeks ago, after many months of nagging, I finally received a SpaceOne Jumping Hour for a hands-on review. As someone in constant communication with Guillaume Laidet, the brand’s founder, I was fortunate enough to have followed the project from the jump-off to the point where, last year, my much-deserved beer at the Grand […] Visit Hands-On With The SpaceOne Jumping Hour Destro Forged Carbon to read the full article.

H. Moser & Cie. Launches the Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton “Alpine” SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Launches Apr 24, 2024

H. Moser & Cie. Launches the Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton “Alpine”

With its sponsorship of Renault’s Formula 1 team, H. Moser & Cie. has created a limited edition for the occasion, the Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Alpine Limited Edition. This combines the brand’s unusual cylindrical tourbillon with its sporty Streamliner presented for the first on a strap instead of a bracelet. Initial thoughts  In the wake of its deal with the Alpine Motorsports, Renault’s sports car division, Moser’s latest limited edition is hardly a surprise. The concept of an open-worked tourbillon in a modern, sporty case is not a new one, but this is technically novel thanks to the tall cylindrical hairspring inside the tourbillon carriage, made possible thanks to Moser’s sister company that produces hairsprings. Fortunately this is not a typical F1 watch dressed in team colours and sporting a logo. The entire face is devoid of branding and Alpine’s trademark blue instead forms the transparent sub-dial at 12 that contrasts with the anthracite bridges below.  The removal of the bracelet, however, also removes some of the character of the Streamliner. This looks less distinctive than the typical Streamliner on a bracelet. That is not a permanent problem since a bracelet can be installed, and since the case is steel, at presumably moderate cost. The Alpine edition retails for CHF89,000, a CHF10,000 increase over the recent Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton that has a bracelet but no cylindrical hairspring. All things consider, the premium is...

Introducing – Omega expands the Speedmaster 38mm collection with sparkling diamond-set versions Monochrome
Omega expands Apr 23, 2024

Introducing – Omega expands the Speedmaster 38mm collection with sparkling diamond-set versions

The Speedmaster 38mm made its debut in 2017. Among the most popular iterations of this smaller Speedmaster is the Cappuccino in 18K Sedna™ Gold, with horizontal brown oval subdials and vertical oval date window at 6 o’clock. This year, Omega expands the collection with 8 new sparkling versions set with diamonds and a choice of […]

The 10 Best Hamilton Watches for Every Type of Enthusiast Teddy Baldassarre
Hamilton Apr 23, 2024

The 10 Best Hamilton Watches for Every Type of Enthusiast

While it’s been making its timepieces in Switzerland since the 1970s, Hamilton Watch Company, founded in Lancaster, Pennsylvania in 1892, has few peers when it comes to being a vital thread in the historical tapestry of American watchmaking. The heritage brand, today a part of the Swiss Swatch Group conglomerate of companies, continues to lean heavily into its New World roots for its diverse collection of product families, which ranges from military tool watches to sporty divers, from elegantly appointed dress pieces to retro-futuristic curiosities - while also maintaining a price-to-value ratio for which the brand has long been renowned. It can fairly be said that there is a Hamilton watch for just about everyone, no matter what style they’re seeking. Here, in the tradition of our previous guide to the best Longines watches, we run down 10 of our favorite Hamilton watches that run the stylistic gamut from sporty to dressy, from high-tech to classically mechanical. For the Military Buff: Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Price: $595, Case Size: 38mm, Thickness: 9.5mm, Lug width: 20mm, Lug to Lug: 47mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Movement: Mechanical Hamilton Caliber H-50 Field watches are an enduringly popular category of timepiece, and without Hamilton, the style as we know it might not even exist. Hamilton basically invented the genre with the “trench watches” that it supplied to American troops during World War I, kicking off a long tradit...

All of the New Portugiesers from IWC Worn & Wound
Rolex Apr 23, 2024

All of the New Portugiesers from IWC

One of the prevailing narratives to come out of Watches & Wonders 2024 was that it was, across the board, a pretty quiet year. That may have been true for some, but others, like IWC, came to play. A good portion of the attention IWC got this year was (justifiably) directed at the new Portugieser Eternal Calendar that Zach Kazan introduced a few weeks ago, but that watch was far from the only Portugieser IWC brought to Geneva this year. The Portugieser is not the first watch that springs to mind for most of us when contemplating IWC - far more likely would be some sort of Pilot’s Watch or, more recently, the Ingenieur - but it has been, at times subtly, possibly the most important collection in the IWC catalog. I know so many collectors for whom the Portugieser was their first nice watch, and it is a model I continue to see in the wild, especially in cities like New York or London where people still routinely wear suits to work. IWC, like Rolex, is a brand that prefers evolution over revolution when it comes to its designs - one only has to look at the slow transformation of the Pilot’s Watch for evidence of that. The last few years have seen the brand slowly tinkering with the Portugieser line, bringing it up to date and refining what was already a great watch to make it better. This year, they continued that process and introduced a slew of new models and colorways, all of which come together to make up possibly the best lineup of Portugiesers ever assembled. Co...

The Surprise Return of the Amida Digitrend Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri Apr 23, 2024

The Surprise Return of the Amida Digitrend

One of the most interesting stories to emerge from Watches & Wonders (and the surrounding events in Geneva that saw literally hundreds of brands exhibiting new novelties) is the seemingly robust state of truly creative watchmaking happening at all price points. Anyone who strolled through the Beau Rivage (where many of these brands were hanging out, either officially or unofficially) can rattle off a list of favorites: SpanceOne, Sartory Billard, Furlan Marri, and Beda’a are just a few that come immediately to mind. Another brand that we saw (in an unofficial capacity – literally a meeting taken in the Beau Rivage lobby) was Amida, which is not a new name in watchmaking, but a rethinking of a heritage brand that we’ll definitely be keeping our eyes on.  The new Amida Digitrend is a reimagining of a watch by the same name released in 1976. The unusual case shape takes inspiration from both classic sports cars and modern architecture, and the “driver’s watch” time display is a play on the original LED-style display, designed to be easily viewed from an angle with a hand on the steering wheel.  Amida has been relaunched by watch designer Matthieu Allègre (whose clients include Lyrique, Simon Brette, and others) and Clément Meynier, founder of Depancel. Their new venture is timed to mark the 50th anniversary of the original incarnation of Amida, and relies on a combination of heritage and nostalgia, as well as some clever modern watchmaking, to make the brand i...

[VIDEO] The Dial as a Canvas: Our Favorite Artistic Dials Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Arcanaut Apr 23, 2024

[VIDEO] The Dial as a Canvas: Our Favorite Artistic Dials

Of all the watch collecting niches, few are more curious (and potentially divisive) than watches that are completely (or almost completely) without any markers and branding. In our hobby, legibility and a relative ease of use are often seen as high priorities, so what happens when a watchmaker decides to forego these things entirely in favor of pure artistic expression?  We’ve noticed an increase in dials of this type from brands as diverse as Christopher Ward, Arcanaut, and H. Moser recently, and it’s interesting to consider what each is attempting to accomplish. These watches fly in the face of the idea as a watch as a practical tool, and lean toward a more overtly artistic style of watchmaking. But that doesn’t necessarily make them impractical.  In this video, Zach Weiss and Zach Kazan look at a number of watches that prioritize the artistic vision of the maker by eschewing traditional markers, or other dial indicators that make it easy to precisely note the time at a glance. The post [VIDEO] The Dial as a Canvas: Our Favorite Artistic Dials appeared first on Worn & Wound.